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Rockwall Trail | The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the Rockwall

View along the Rockwall Trail towards Floe Lake.

The Rockwall Trail is one of the Canadian Rockies’ premier backpacking trips. For 55km you’ll be treated to a seemingly unending supply of sublime Rocky Mountain scenery. You’ll camp near glacier-clad Floe Lake, hear the torrent of water crashing down from 300m+ high Helmet Falls, and be left awestruck by the Rockwall itself, an incredible expanse of 1000ft cliffs arranged almost unbroken for 30km.

Traversing three high passes in Kootenay National Park, the Rockwall delivers over 2,500 m meters of quad-burning elevation gain and over that amount of knee-crunching descent. Fortunately, five established campsites make daily mileage manageable for backpackers looking to space the hike out over a longer period of time. 

Your biggest challenge in backpacking the Rockwall is likely to be obtaining a permit and finding a way to escape the crowds on this popular hike.  Fortunately, you’ve come to the right spot!  This comprehensive guide was built on my own experience hiking the Rockwall and includes multiple itinerary options for planning your own adventure. I also reveal how I managed to hike the first 40 km without crossing paths with another hiker, while snagging a permit only days before starting my hike. 

So without further ado, let’s dive in.

Here’s a summary of the information you’ll find in this guide:

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Need to Know for Hiking the Rockwall Trail

Days Required: 2-5
Difficulty: Moderate
Distance: 54 km (34 miles)
Elevation Gain: 2,500 m ( 8, 000 ft)
Elevation Loss: 2,600 m (8, 500 ft)
Permit Required: Yes, campsites must be booked and book up fast
Designated Campsites: Yes
Navigation: Easy, well marked and maintained trail
Food Storage: Provided bear boxes
Best Campsite: Floe Lake
Worst Campsite: Helmet/Ochre Junction

Patrol Cabin on the Rockwall Trail near Helmet Falls

Things You’ll Love About This Hike

    • Sublime Rocky Mountain scenery.
    • Established campsites with bear lockers (no need to carry a bear canister), tent pads, outhouses, and tables for cooking/eating.
    • Numerous campsites allow for flexibility on trip duration and daily mileage.
    • Chance to see Rocky Mountain mega fauna (moose, grizzly bears, and mountain goats).

Things You Won’t Love About This Hike

    • Lack of solitude during peak season with large campsites.
    • Competitive permit process that requires advance trip planning during peak season.
    • 13 km shuttle required between the starting trailhead and ending trailhead.
    • Most campsites lack dynamic views from the tent pads.

What to Pack for Backpacking the Rockwall

Here’s a quick summary of what to pack for backpacking the Rockwall Trail. You’ll find a detailed breakdown of each item at the end of the post with rational, alternatives and quick links to check prices.

Don’t Forget

Essential Items

  •  

Clothing and Accessories 

Additional Items

Luxury Items (very optional)

How to Get a Permit for the Rockwall trail

Trekking the Rockwall Trail is such a memorable backpacking trip that your biggest challenge is likely to be securing the right to do it. Reservations for many dates/campsites along the Rockwall book up days after Parks Canada opens the reservation system (usually at the end of January) and no permits are allocated for walk-ups. If you’re planning on doing this trek during peak season, set a reminder and plan ahead to avoid missing out.

To get a permit for the Rockwall Trail you can either call Parks Canada at 1-877-737-3783 or use the online system for Kootenay National Park.

You must start by selecting your starting trailhead, either:

    • Paint Pots Trailhead – if heading North to South
    • Floe Lake Trailhead- if heading South to North

After picking your starting trailhead you’ll select the campsites you’ll stay at each night. For help with that, refer to the itinerary section below.

Hiker on the Rockwall trail between Helmet Falls and Tumbling Creek

When to Hike the Rockwall

The Rockwall Trail is best hiked between early-mid July and mid September. Any earlier and the passes can still be snowbound and sections can be subject to avalanche danger. Later season trips provide a means to beat the crowds and gain booking flexibility. The downside is that the days get shorter, the nights get colder, and there is a significant chance of early season storms disrupting or canceling your hike all together.

My recommendation on when to hike it

I hiked the Rockwall in early October snow-free, but the nights were chilly (woke up to significant frost) and we used up the majority of daylight hours to complete the Rockwall in 2 nights. If you get lucky with weather and are prepared for the potential of cold-weather/snow, fall can be the perfect time to take this trip and you’ll experience solitude unlike any other time of year. We hiked the first 40 km before encountering another group, camped alone at Tumbling Creek, and shared Floe lake with only 4 other parties.  With demand for reservations falling off significantly after the middle of September,  it’s possible to reserve a permit the day before starting a trip (especially during the week). If you are prepared for the challenges of late season hiking, this is the way to go, so keep your eyes glued to the forecast and make a last minute decision. You might end up having this incredible hike all to yourself!  

How to Get to the Trailheads - Shuttles & Transportation

The Rockwall Trail starts from either Floe Lake Trailhead or Paint Pots Trailhead in Kootenay National Park, approximately 50 km from Banff (Paint Pots) and 175 km from the city of Calgary. The Floe Lake and Paint Pots trailheads are 13 km apart on the Kootenay Parkway Highway 93, making transportation between trailheads a required annoyance. Your options for dealing with this are as follows:

 

    • Take 2 cars and leave one at each trailhead.
    • Hitchhike. If you’re electing this option, the best bet is to start your trip with the hitchhike. You get it over with and are more likely to get picked up as you look all fresh and clean! Consider making a small sign on a piece of paper that says “Hiker: only going 13 km” (helps take the edge off by helping drivers realize that even if you’re a weirdo, they won’t be stuck with you for long).
    • Bet on your social skills and charm (busy season only). Meet someone on the trail or at the parking lot that will drive you to your car. Bring desirable backpacking bribes (think dessert, candy, pocket cocktails) to help lubricate negotiations.
    • Convince a friend, spouse, parent, or lover to drop you off and pick you up! Just make sure you arrange all the details in advance as there is no cell service!

Which Direction Should You Hike the Rockwall Trail?

The Rockwall can be hiked:

    •  North to South starting at Paint Pots trailhead and ending at Floe Lake trailhead, or
    •  South to North starting at Paint Pots and ending at Floe Lake trailhead.

Quite frankly, you should be happy if you get a permit going either direction given how hard it is to snag sites. The hike is awesome no matter how you do it! Floe Lake tends to be the most popular campsite and as a result your itinerary may be dictated by the available dates for camping here.  

I hiked the Rockwall North to South and if I had to choose I’d do that again. Doing it this way lets you enjoy camping at Floe Lake on your last night. Floe Lake is the pièce de résistance of the Rockwall campsites, and enjoying sunrise here is an epic way to cap your trip.

How Long Does it Take to Hike the Rockwall?

The Rockwall can be backpacked in 2-5 days depending on how much mileage you’d like to cover each day. In my opinion the sweet spot for hiking the Rockwall is 2-3 nights for reasonably conditioned hikers who are mindful of their pack weight.  You’ll start early and typically finish in the later afternoon. You’ll have full days of hiking, but leave plenty of time for photos, snack breaks, and lunch.  If you’re someone that likes slow mornings or lazing around camp in the afternoon, go for 4 nights – that’ll be perfect. 

The shorter you go for, the more important it is to be cognizant of your pack weight and what you’re packing (see the what to pack section). Pack weight makes a huge difference in your enjoyment levels during long days on the trail.

Rockwall Trail Sections

The Rockwall Trail is best thought of as 5 unique sections. Here’s a quick breakdown of each section described for a North to South trip (Paint Pots to Floe Lake Trailhead). If you’re going South to North, use your imagination and remember uphill changes to downhill!  😉

Helmet Falls in Kootenay National Park

Paint Pots Trailhead to Helmet Falls - 14.2 km

14.2 KM - 500 M elevation gain / 200 M elevation loss

The opening section of the Rockwall takes you through lush forest until you pass the Helmet-Ochre junction campground at 8.2 km.  Shortly after Helmet-Ochre Campground the trail swiftly gains elevation for about a kilometer before continuing at a more gradual pace up to the Helmet Falls Campground.  By the time you reach this campground, you’re 14 km into your trip and starting to get a real taste of some of the scenery to come! The campground is situated between the tributaries of Helmet Creek and 350m Helmet Falls crashes down in the distance. Take a breath, soak it all in, and taste that mountain air with an essence of waterfall mist! Yum!  A short side trip takes you closer to the base of the falls for a closer look. Stay here for the night if it’s on the itinerary, if not, proceed to the next level.

Heading towards Rockwall Pass

Helmet Falls to Tumbling Creek over Rockwall Pass- 12.3 KM

12.3 KM - 700 M elevation gain / 500 M elevation loss

After departing the Helmet Creek Campground the trail begins an ascent, climbing over 400m in just over 3 km to Limestone Summit.  This hard work gives you your first close-up of the incredible Rockwall. Take it in and enjoy. Erosive forces have been working relentlessly for millennia  to create this view for you and your Instagram followers!  Show ‘em some love and savor it! After your climb, you’ll descend towards the south fork of Helmet Creek before climbing again to Rockwall Pass and eventually passing the junction for Wolverine Pass where a short side trip leads to the border of Kootenay National Park. The scenery along this section is absolutely stunning as you view the Rockwall, alpine meadows and glaciers. Shortly after the junction you’ll make a short but steep descent down to Tumbling Creek Campground with views towards Tumbling Glacier and the Rockwall along the way. The campground is in the trees near the creek. 

views to tumbling glacier on the way to Tumbling Pass

Tumbling Creek to Numa Creek over Tumbling Pass - 7.9 km

7.9 KM - 400 M elevation gain / 700 M elevation loss

After departing the campground and crossing Tumbling Creek, you’ll fire up the ol’ pegs and begin your ascent up to Tumbling pass gaining 350m in 2.5 km. Go legs go! Walking through subalpine forest, you’ll have views of Tumbling Glacier. After reaching the height of the pass you’ll descend through a boulder meadow before following numerous switchbacks alongside tributaries fed from the glacier above, fording the water on numerous occasions. As you descend and hear the roar of Numa Creek grow louder, shrubbery begins to surround the trail. Make lots of noise here to avoid sneaking up on a bear enjoying the buffet of berries that can be found in this section. After walking through some lush vegetation that makes you feel as if you’re hiking in the Pacific Northwest, you’ll arrive at Numa Creek Campsite. 

Numa Pass at the height of the Rockwall Trail

Numa Creek to Floe Lake over Numa Pass - 9.2 km

9.4 KM - 800 M elevation gain / 300 M elevation loss

From Numa Creek Campsite, you’ll cross a log bridge over Numa Creek and hike through lush vegetation adjoining multiple avalanche chutes before beginning the climb to Numa Pass, the highest point on the Rockwall Trail. The ascent to Numa Pass is strenuous with 800m of elevation gain in under 7 km. As you near the top the landscape changes from alpine forest to a barren alpine tundra. From Numa Pass incredible vistas greet your weary legs including a glimpse of Mt. Temple to the North. After taking in the view from the pass, continue down through the alpine as you wind through larch glades and seasonal wildflower meadows, noticing as Floe Lake comes closer into view below you.  Once you reach Floe Lake there are a couple of frequently occupied tent pads near the water, unfortunately the  other sites lack the same view out to the lake. Fortunately, the cooking area is set adjacent to the lake and provides great consolation. Don’t forget to set your alarm, sunrise here is a spectacle to behold!

Floe Lake on the Rockwall Trail

Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead - 10.5 km

9.4 KM - 150 M elevation gain / 900 M elevation loss

After walking for several hundred meters through the subalpine forest surrounding the magnificent Floe Lake, the trail drops sharply for the next 2.5 km, quickly losing 400m.  For the final 8 km you’ll find yourself walking through the remnants of the substantial forest fire that burned through Kootenay National Park in 2003. Heed extra caution on windy days as some of these trees have precarious leans to them. Take note of the incredible regrowth that has already occurred in this burned area and observe the significant logjams that have funneled their way into the valley and Floe Creek below. To wrap the hike you’ll walk alongside a beautiful canyon eroded by the Vermillion River, before crossing to the Floe Lake Trailhead. Give your hiking companions (if applicable) a high five! You did it!!  

View along the Rockwall Trail towards Floe Lake.

Rockwall Itinerary Options

Here’s your Rockwall itinerary buffet! No matter your time or desired mileage level there should be an itinerary that suits your palate.  I’ve also indicated which day you’re likely to find the most challenging. 

Campsites on the Rockwall Trail

To make your reservation for hiking the Rockwall you’ll need to select a campsite for each night. There are 5 campsites along the Rockwall Trail.  Listed in order from North to South they are:

    • Helmet-Ochre Junction Campground*
    • Helmet Falls Campground
    • Tumbling Creek Campground
    • Numa Creek Campground
    • Floe Lake Campground

*None of the below itineraries include the Helment-Ochre Junction Campground. In my opinion, staying at this site provides limited benefit as Helmet Falls to the Paint Pots Trailhead is not a challenge for most hikers looking to complete the Rockwall in its entirety. In a pinch, those looking to spend 4 nights on the trail could use this site as a substitute for Helmet Falls if that was booked. 

Rockwall Trail in 1 Night /2 Days

Crazy?? Maybe! But trail runners slay this dragon of hike in a day. So, the Rockwall Trail is doable as a 1 night / 2 day backpacking trip if that’s all your schedule affords. To make this happen, you’ll need to travel light and be comfortable hiking 30 km+ days with significant elevation changes. Your pack weight should be under 20 lbs. I’d also suggest doing this early in the season (July) so that the long daylight hours are on your side and you can hike from dawn to dusk if needed. 

Now that the disclaimer is out of the way, time to pick your poison:

Starting at Paint Pots Trailhead

Option 1
    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trailhead to Tumbling Creek (26.5 km) 
    • Day 2: Tumbling Creek to Floe Lake Trailhead (27.6 km) – Hardest Day

Notes: This option splits the mileage evenly between the two days with Day 2 being significantly more challenging as you’ll combine both Tumbling Pass and Numa Pass in one day before making the knee-crunching descent from Floe Lake to the parking lot.

Option 2
    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trailhead to Numa Creek (34.4 km) – Hardest Day
    • Day 2: Numa Creek to Floe Lake Trailhead (19.7 km)

Notes: A huge Day 1 is a great way to go as you benefit from fresh legs and guaranteed blister-free feet!  Plus, by doing it this way, you group the two easier passes together (Rockwall Pass and Tumbling Pass). This itinerary also saves the most physically strenuous pass (Numa Creek Campsite to Numa Pass) for the lower mileage day and provides ample time for a lunch stop at Flow Lake prior to making the big descent down to the trailhead.

Starting at Floe Lake Trailhead

Option 1
    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead to Numa Creek (19.7 km)
    • Day 2: Numa Creek to Paint Pots (34.4 km) – Hardest Day

Notes: For a 1-night option going South to North, this is the option that I’d pick as the first day is shorter, but includes a significant amount of elevation delta going directly from the Floe Lake Trailhead to the trail’s high point (Numa Pass) then making the big drop down to Numa Creek. The second day will be long, but the most challenging ascent will come first thing as you grind up Tumbling pass from Numa Creek Campground. The final 14 km from Helmet Falls to the trailhead will fly by. 

Option 2
    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead (27.6 km) to Tumbling Creek – Hardest Day
    • Day 2: Tumbling Creek to Paint Pots Trailhead (26.5 km) 

Notes: Despite evening out the mileage, Day 1 will be brutal on this trip as you ascend the trail’s two longest climbs back-to-back while squishing the epic descent from Numa Pass to Numa Creek in the middle. The upside? Day 2 should feel like a breeze after making the early morning climb from Tumbling creek to Rockwall pass, so you can throw it into cruise all the way down.

hiker crosses Numa Creek on the rockwall trail

Rockwall Trail in 2 Nights/3 Days

Anytime you can fit a trip like the Rockwall into an extended weekend, you go for it right? If that’s your motto and you’re an in-shape backpacker that knows your limits, this is probably the trip length for you. When I hiked the Rockwall this is how I did it (North-South) and if I had a do over, I wouldn’t change a thing! This trip duration makes for a couple full days, but you have ample time to enjoy the views without feeling rushed and you’re left with an easy half-day conclusion to wrap it up. 

Starting at Paint Pots Trailhead

    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trailhead to Tumbling Creek (26.5 km) – Hardest Day
    • Day 2: Tumbling Creek to Floe Lake (17.1 km) 
    • Day 3: Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead (10.5 km)

Notes: This is the exact itinerary that I hiked. Day 1 was long, but manageable. Day 2 felt longer than the mileage would suggest given the significant elevation gain over Tumbling Pass and Numa Pass before reaching Floe Lake. The hike out from Floe Lake flew by in the morning of the last day.

Starting at Floe Lake Trailhead

    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead to Numa Creek (19.7 km) – Tie Hardest
    • Day 2: Numa Creek to Helmet Falls (20.2 km) – Tie Hardest
    • Day 3: Helmet Falls to Paint Pots Trailhead (14.2 km)

Notes: This itinerary has been included as an option, but I don’t recommend this itinerary unless you have no other options for the following reasons:

    1. You have limited time to enjoy the scenery around Floe Lake.
    2. The section from Helmet Falls to the Paint Pots Trailhead isn’t nearly as enjoyable of a denouement as the descent from Floe Lake.
Heading towards Numa Pass on the Rockwall Trail

Rockwall Trail in 3 Nights/4 Days

Completing this hike in 3 nights and 4 days requires one longer day, but allows for plenty of time to relax at campsites and enjoy the Rockwall at a more leisurely pace. Unfortunately, this itinerary is slightly awkward, as you’re still stuck with one longish day that will include two passes. 

Starting at Paint Pots Trailhead

    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trailhead to Helmet Falls (14.2 km)
    • Day 2: Helmet Falls to Numa Creek (20.2 km) – Hardest Day
    • Day 3: Numa Creek to Floe Lake (9.3 km)
    • Day 4: Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead (10.5 km)  

Notes: Day 2 will be the most challenging as you combine Rockwall Pass and Tumbling Pass in one day. Both are manageable ascents taken in this direction. You’re likely to find the long descent from Tumbling Pass to Numa Creek tiring at the end of a long day. Day 3 has light mileage, but the ascent to Numa Pass is long and gruelling.

Starting at Floe Lake Trailhead

    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead to Floe Lake (10.5 km)
    • Day 2: Floe Lake to Tumbling Creek (17.1 km) – Hardest Day
    • Day 3: Tumbling Creek to Helmet Falls (12.3 km) 
    • Day 4: Helmet Falls to Paint Pots Trailhead (14.2 km)

Notes: Day 2 will be tough. After making the big descent from Numa Pass to Numa Creek, you’ll make the long and thigh-burning ascent to Tumbling Pass. Day 1 is likely to be the next most challenging as the climb to Floe Lake is significant.

Descending the Floe Lake Trail on the Rockwall

Rockwall Trail in 4 Nights/5 Days

The Rockwall Trail’s incredible scenery is worthwhile sticking around for and with 5 established campsites along the trail, why not make use of them? By going with this itinerary you’ll break all major elevation gains into separate days. This seems to be the most popular way for most backpackers trek the Rockwall. The more relaxed schedule allows you to sleep in a bit and relax at camp after arriving early in the afternoon. If this sounds like the type of adventure you’re looking for, here’s how to make it happen:

Starting at Paint Pots Trailhead:

    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trail Head to Helmet Falls (14.2 km) 
    • Day 2: Helmet Falls to Tumbling Creek (12.3 km)
    • Day 3: Tumbling Creek to Numa Creek (7.9 km)
    • Day 4: Numa Creek to Floe Lake (9.3 km) – Toughest Day
    • Day 5: Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead (10.5 km)  

Notes: This itinerary is the standard Rockwall itinerary that many backpackers choose. The climb to Numa Pass on Day 4 is likely to be the most challenging.

Starting at Floe Lake Trailhead

    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead to Floe Lake (10.5 km) – Toughest Day 
    • Day 2: Floe Lake to Numa Creek (9.3 km)
    • Day 3: Numa Creek to Tumbling Creek (7.9 km)
    • Day 4: Tumbling Creek to Helmet Falls (7.9 km)
    • Day 5: Helmet Falls to Paint Pots Trailhead (14.2 km)
  •  
  • Notes: This itinerary is the standard Rockwall itinerary that many backpackers choose. The climb to Floe Lake (Day 1) is likely to be the most challenging, with the climb from Numa Creek to Tumbling pass (Day 3) a close second. 
Vermillion River Canyon by Floe Lake Trailhead

What to Pack for the Rockwall Trail

Since I backpacked the Rockwall, I’ve changed and continuously improved my gear setup to lighten my pack weight. Backpacking light makes it easier to cover long distances, large amounts of elevation and be a lot more comfortable doing so! 

That said, if you’re new to backpacking, don’t stress out about buying the latest and greatest equipment. Save money and use things you already own  or borrow things from a friend. Later, when you’ve gained more experience, modify your kit and change out gear as you get a better understanding of what creature comforts you can and can’t live without. Even then, it’s a consistently evolving process. 

With this in mind, here’s a list of what to pack and gear suggestions for hiking the Rockwall Trail.

Park Pass and Site Reservations

Don’t forget to buy a park entrance pass or Discovery Annual Pass and leave it on the dash in your car. To avoid the line at the park gates, or if you’re driving past the ticket windows at the National Park gates before opening, buy your park entrance pass and print it in advance.

Additionally, print and bring along the campsite reservation/backcountry reservation confirmations for your trip.

Best Tent for the Rockwall Trail

I upgraded to Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 last year.  It’s semi-freestanding (needs to be staked), double walled and weighs in at a mere 2.5 lbs. Unlike many 2-person tents, it doesn’t have a tapered floor and can fit 2 extra wide sleeping pads side-by-side with no overlap. A rare feature in this class of tent!  It’s cozy, but workable for two and palatial for one!  I debated between this tent and the MSR Freelite and ultimately chose the MH as it was in-stock. The MH Strato doesn’t seem to be as readily available in Canada, so you may want to go for the MSR Freelite to avoid the risk of paying duty shipping the MH from a retailer in the US.  Ultimately, both are a great lightweight tents with similar features, but feel very fragile given their lightweight components.  If you’re looking for more durability/resilience these aren’t the tents for you. 

If you’re looking for a completely freestanding tent that offers more durability, check out the Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2. It’s unique blend of functionality, livability, weight, and durability earn high praise and Big Agnes’s customer service is outstanding!  

Best Backpack for the Rockwall Trail

If you’re relatively new to backpacking and building out your kit slowly, there is nothing wrong with using a large size travel backpack with a decent suspension system and padded hipbelt or borrowing a pack from a friend. This gives you time to decide what features you need and whether or not backpacking (and the gear) is something you’re going to invest in.  When I first started backpacking, I used my Khmer Explorer Travel Set on the West Coast Trail and Sunshine Coast Trail which worked great despite my poor packing skills (don’t recommend backpacking with 55lbs…)!  

If you’ve begun dialing in your backpacking kit,  check out the Gregory Focal or Women’s specific Facet. At ~2.5lbs these packs provide a great compromise between barebones ultralight packs and the heavier feature laden packs. The Osprey Exos (men’s) & Eja (women’s) backpacks are also great packs comparable in features and weight.  

If you’re ready to go to an extreme level of gram counting and have eliminated all creature comforts check out the Hyperlite 3400 southwest. It’s 100% waterproof and constructed from ultra light dyneema fabric. Being ultralight, you’ll sacrifice features, so if you hate getting a swampy back (that’s me) you may prefer the Osprey or Gregory despite the small weight penalty. Backpacking gear is always a zero sum game! 

Sleeping Mat

I used to have terrible sleeps in the backcountry until I switched to the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xlite. It’s incredibly lightweight, comfortable and packs down to the size of a Nalgene bottle. This is probably one of my favorite backpacking items! Try it out. You won’t regret it. Sleep well!

Backpacking Pillow

Yes, you can sleep with a pillow not made of bunched up clothes in the backcountry.  I love the Nemo Fillo Elite, but they’re harder to find in Canada. Fortunately, the Therm-a-Rest Head Down Pillow is a similar concept, weight and size. 

Sleeping Bag

I can’t speak highly enough of Patagonia’s Fitz Roy sleeping bags I invested in one several years ago. It’s unbelievably lightweight and packs down small. I found the 30°F / -1°C to be perfect for most outings. Like all Patagonia products, it’s not cheap, but they stand behind their gear and the quality matches the price point. If you spend a lot of time in colder environments they also make a 20°F / -7°C version.  These bags are a very worthwhile splurge you won’t be disappointed in.

If you’re looking for an even lighter-weight option, consider going for a sleeping bag quilt. Feathered Friends  Flicker UL Quilt Sleeping Bag has won numerous awards and is a stalwart among ultralight backpackers. With a weight starting at  526 g (1 lb 2.5 oz), I can see why!  

Water Purification

I love the Steripen. It’s light, portable and only takes minutes to purify a liter of water in a Nalgene. Press the button, place the pen in your bottle, and stir for a couple minutes. It’s like magic! Make sure to bring a few purification tablets as a backup should you run into any technical problems/dead battery with your Steripen.

Trowel, Toilet Paper & Hand Sanitizer

The Rockwall trail feels like luxury with established outhouses at each campsite, that said you need to bring a trowel for digging a cathole in case nature calls at any other time. Follow minimum impact camping principles and be sure to go at least 200m away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.). Pack out your TP or hang onto it until you reach the next outhouse.

Don’t forget a  small bottle (1 oz) of hand sanitizer.

Swiss Army Knife

Fixing gear, cutting food, a swiss army knife is your go to everything too for backpacking.

Stove & Fuel Canisters

Lightweight, convenient, and reliable, the MSR pocket rocket has been my go to backpacking stove for years.

Lighter & Matches

A bring a small baby Bic lighter (in a mini-ziplock to keep it dry) & a few matches as a failsafe.

Backcountry Cookset

I love the GSI Halulite Microdualist II, Two-person cookset. It’s lightweight and I can fit my MSR pocket rocket and a fuel canister inside. If you don’t already have a stove, consider the MSR PocketRocket Stove Kit for an all-inclusive solution.

Water Bottle or Reservoir

Nalgenes are always a backcountry favorite. If you’re cutting weight or looking for a way to save a buck, a simple smart water is the go-to for ultralight backpackers. I’ve recently moved to a hydration reservoir as it allows me to stay hydrated continuously without stopping to grab and open a bottle.

Water Container

The Rockwall Trail has a pretty solid supply of accessible water sources, but sometimes it’s nice to have extra water storage capacity for cooking and camp.  The MSR DromLite Bag V2.  are a lightweight option to add this convenience and are essential on trips with less reliable water sources. 

First Aid Kit

From blisters, to scrapes, and cuts. A first aid kit is an essential item to have.  The pre-built kits from Adventure Medical Kits have served me well on many adventurers. At the end of your trip write down any items you used and replace them so they’re ready for your next adventure.

Hiking Poles

For the grueling passes of the Rockwall, poles make a big difference!  I resisted getting them for years, but take it from a former skeptic, poles are incredible at reducing the strain of long, gruelling descents and providing extra stability on exposed sections. Do yourself a favor and get a pair of poles. I‘ve had great luck with these Leki’s, but for a reliable entry-level option try these Black Diamond Poles. Black Diamond also makes a carbon fiber version if you’re looking to save extra weight.

Bear Spray

The Rockwall trail passes through prime Grizzly Bear country making Bear Spray  an absolute must! Make sure to remove the packaging, check the expiration date before heading out, and know how to use it.

Dry Bag

The Rockwall offers bear storage boxes at every campsite so you can leave your buiky bear can at home! For trips like this, I use a dry bag to store my food, camp cook wear, and toiletries/scented items in, making transportation easy to the bear box and keeping everything nicely organized inside my pack.

Headlamp

The Spot 500-R is the way to go with 9 modes including the night vision saving red light!  Red light mode takes a minute to get used to, but once you do it’s a total game changer trust me! The stars never looked so good!  The Spot 500-R is rechargable, but with a batter life of over 19 hrs on medium and 7hrs on high it should get you through the trip!

GPS, Compass & Map

The Rockwall Trail is extremely well marked, but download the GAIA app for maps and gps. Additionally, I always bring a traditional compass and map in the case of technical problems or dead batteries.

Power Bank & Charging Cable

Don’t forget a power bank to keep your phone charged for photos and gps. Plus a backup for charging your headlamp if it needs a recharge. 

Clothing & Accessories to Pack for the Rockwall

Shell Jacket

A shell jacket is one of the most important items in your backpacking kit and it’s vital to have a great shell for the rapidly changing mountain environment you’ll experience backpacking the Rockwall. The Arc’teryx Beta shell is the best all around shell jacket. This shell performs in all adverse conditions and is the perfect outer layer for rainy days, or cool nights. Arc’teryx gear is expensive, but impeccably designed. I was skeptical for years, until I purchased a few pieces of their trail running gear and got hooked. If you’re looking for the best reviewed hiking shell out there, this is the one. 

For another excellent option that is more economical,  check out the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L. 

Puff Jacket

I’ve had the Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody for years and it works great on it’s own or layered underneath your shell for extra warmth. It’s a perfect multi-functional item for everyday, backpacking, and pretty much anything where you might need a bit of warmth. I’m still looking for an activity it doesn’t work for. 

Rainpants

You leave camp on sunny beautiful day breaking sweat over a pass, only to have storm clouds roll in an hour later and dump sleet on you. Rainpants are lifesaver for rapidly changing mountain weather.  Many have the functionality for quickly taking them on and off without removing your shoes/boots allowing you to stay comfortable even if you get caught in a sudden downpour.  I’ve been happy with the Black Diamond StormLine Rain Pants. The Patagonia Torrentshell pants are also a great option. 

Sun Hoodie

When I went backpacking in the Grand Canyon a few years back, I was shocked to see throngs of Arizona Trail thru-hikers wearing hoodies in the  40 C heat. Turns out they weren’t just lost tech bros in the Grand Canyon, they were really onto something! A sun hoodie has been one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking kit. They keep you burn free, are surprisingly cool, and let you get away with leaving the bottle of sunscreen at home (or bringing way less). The Sahara Sun Hoodie from REI is one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking wardrobe and you can’t beat the price. 

Zip Off / Convertible Hiking Pants

I never thought I’d see the day I embraced the zip-off pant. But hey, they’re the best of both worlds. Check out the Quandary Pant for a great option

A pair of shorts

In addition to hiking pants, it’s nice to have a pair of shorts to change into after a long day on the trail or as a backup option. Trail running shorts are light and comfortable. 

Base layer top

In addition to a sun hoodie, I also bring one base layer top to change into at camp or have as an alternate. The Capilene Cool trail  t-shirts work great for me on long hikes and trail runs, but pretty much any athletic quick-dry top will work fine. 

Base Layer Bottom

A merino wool or synthetic bottom baselayer is perfect for warming up at night or during chilly mornings.

Underwear

I’ve had the best luck with Patagonia underwear for hiking, trail running, mountain biking and skiing and found them to be more durable than the more expensive ones from lululemon. I usually bring a 2-3 pair depending on trip length. 

3 Pairs of Hiking Socks

Darn Tough Vermont makes the best hiking socks hands down. They’re guaranteed for life/replaced free of charge and they don’t stink. Really! I typically bring 3 pair. 1 pair for hiking, 1 pair to change into at camp, and a reserve to throw into the rotation as needed. 

Gloves

I typically bring a thin weatherproof pair of trail running gloves, like these. 

Sun Hat & Winter Hat/Toque

A cap or Tilley hat keeps your face protected from the intense mountain sun. A toque is great for warming up during chilly mornings, evenings or when the weather takes a turn. 

Sunglasses

Protect your eyes, don’t forget to bring your Sunglasses!

Trail Runners or Boots - Are Trail Runners or Hiking Boots Better for the Rockwall?

The answer here is it depends! If you have your backpack weight down to less than 20-25lbs and have a decent amount of backpacking experience, trail runners are the way to go during the summer months. If you’re going at a time when snowfall and colder weather are a possibility go with boots. Boots are also a better choice if you have a heavier pack and are newer to backpacking as they provide more stability and sturdiness. You also feel rough sections of the trail alot less on the base of your feet!  

In October with the cold weather and snow a real possibility I hiked the Rockwall in my Scarpa Kailash Hiking Boots.  During the summer months and with a light load I’d wear my La Sportiva Bushido II.

Camp Shoes

Crocs are back! Well for backpacking camp shoes they never left… They’re lightweight and ugly as ever. Many backpackers find them to be the perfect camp shoe for resting sore feat after a long day in boots/shoes.

Personally, I still hate them. I have an old pair of Tom’s which I occasionally bring. They are light and less bulky than Crocs. If going with a trail runner, I’ll often ditch the camp shoe altogether and just loosen my laces. Your call!  

Microspikes (Season Dependent)

Kahtoola Microspikes slip effortlessly over your boots and make walking on snow and ice a breeze. These are absolutely essential for early season travel or later in the year when snow/ice are a possibility.

Low Trail Running Gaiters

Low gaiters are perfect for keeping rocks, sand, and snow out of your trail runners/boots and preventing blisters.

Additional Items to Pack

Toothbrush & Toothpaste

I recently started packing these toothpaste tabs in a tiny plastic bag/ziplock to save more space.

Bug Spray

Sunscreen & SPF Lip Balm

Duct Tape (For Repairs and Blisters)

Food

Everyone has different takes and caloric requirements, so I’m not going to tell you exactly what to bring. I generally avoid the just add water meals you find at REI or MEC.  They’re overpriced and often don’t rehydrate as you’d like. Check out these incredible soups and chilis they taste better, are made with better ingredients, and are less expensive. As another option,  I head to the grocery store and search for things like lentil rice, ramen, or plant-based mac & cheese. They’re basically just add/boil quickly meals and taste like real food. Always rebag/repack this type of food as there is no reason to carry unnecessary packaging weight on the trail.

Travelling from outside Canada? DO NOT FORGET THIS

If you’re traveling from outside Canada don’t forget to purchase comprehensive travel insurance that includes emergency evacuation!

World Nomads is the best choice for these types of adventure trips. Hopefully you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared! I broke my collarbone  traveling a few years ago, which hurt enough! I can’t imagine how much worse it would have felt if I had to pay the $15,000 in medical bills out-of-pocket. 

Luxury Items You Could Pack

These items are extreme luxuries for a backpacking trip, but may be worth it depending on your weight priorities and the distance you plan to cover. I’d only  consider these items on a low distance or base camp style hike given their added weight and bulk. 

Camp Chair

After a long day on the trail there’s nothing better than finding a nice comfortable spot to rest your weary glutes. Fortunately, the Rockwall Trail offers tables and benches at every eating area. So this item is almost certainly a leave behind on this trip unless you’re looking for a comfortable spot to sit near your tent. Check out the Big Agnes Mica Basin Camp Chair or the Helinox Chair One.  Both weigh around 1kg, and are light enough to justify bringing on slower/easier backpacking trips where weight isn’t as big of consideration or for trips where you’re taking day trips from an established base camp.

Hammock

If you’ve never strung up a hammock between two trees deep in the backcountry you’re missing out! Nothing beats getting horizontal with some great reading material in the pre-dinner hours or taking in an amazing sunset from your own outdoor couch.  The ENO Double Nest has room for two and at ½ kg  it’s hardly even a splurge to pack.  P.S don’t forget the straps to hang it.

Final Thoughts on the Rockwall Trail

    •  The Rockwall Trail is unquestionably one the best hikes for scenery that I’ve experienced in the Canadian Rockies. 
    • Go late season to avoid the crowds. 
    • 2.5 days felt like the perfect length. It was 2 full days with early morning starts and late afternoon finishes, but plenty of time for lunch, scenery observation, and snacks. The last day from Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead was an easy half day. 
    • The section from Tumbling Pass to Numa Creek felt like it would be quite hot in peak summer months. 
    • What I’d change hiking it again: Nothing! I was happy with the duration and campsites.   
    • Hike it North to South. Floe Lake is a great place to finish. Sunrise there is spectacular. The final day out is short, yet scenic, and makes for an easy conclusion. 

Your Thoughts on the Rockwall Trail?

Have you hiked the Rockwall Trail? I’d love to hear from you.

Questions about the Rockwall? Drop me a line in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help! 

Don't miss these adventures

Michael

Michael

Michael manages the gear side of Banana Backpacks and thoroughly enjoys spending his days playing with or dreaming of zippers, fabrics, and buckles. When he's not working on gear, you'll probably find him planning a whirlwind overseas trip or backcountry camping adventure.
Michael

Michael

Michael manages the gear side of Banana Backpacks and thoroughly enjoys spending his days playing with or dreaming of zippers, fabrics, and buckles. When he's not working on gear, you'll probably find him planning a whirlwind overseas trip or backcountry camping adventure.
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Plan Your First Backpacking Trip | How to Overnight Hike

Morning views from campsite after backpacking

Planning your first backpacking trip can feel intimidating. What do you pack? What if you forget something? How do you store your food? How do you take a #2?

Maybe you’ve been drawn in by the idea of hiking past isolated mountain vistas, the thought of having your morning coffee by a glacier fed lake, or simply inspired by the desire to feel the sense of adventure and connection with nature that comes with a backpacking. Whatever your reason, a good backpacking trip can easily become the highlight of your summer, or year, assuming it’s planned correctly. 

Unfortunately, it’s the latter that can serve as a major obstacle for getting into backpacking hiking and overnight camping. I’ll be the first to admit that prior to taking my first backpacking trip I was gripped with anxiety. Did I forget something essential? Would our gear work as planned? Fortunately, everything went off without a hitch and I’m certain it will for you too if you follow the simple steps I’ve put forward in this guide to taking your first overnight hike.

Research, plan your route, and pick an easy hike!

Planning an overnight hike thoroughly before embarking is a critical step. The last thing you want is to set off down the trail and realize that the hike is more than you bargained for and that your packing/gear setup was completely wrong. Take some time to do your research, air on the easy side of the difficulty spectrum and familiarize yourself as much as possible with the route in advance.

Person looks at map for planning backpacking trip

Research your first backpacking trip and plan your route

Maybe you heard about a hike or an area via Instagram, driving through a national park, or simply by old fashioned word of mouth. However your curiosity was piqued, take a look for blog posts or pick up a guide book written exclusively for the area you’re interested in from MEC or REI. National/state/provincial park websites are also great resources for learning more about a hike and frequently include pertinent information about closures, dangers, and trail conditions. By taking the time to do a bit of research you’ll be able to answer important questions before setting out like: Is the trail well marked? How difficult is it? Are there any nuances I need to be aware of? How long can I expect it to take? What are the unique transportation considerations (is it a loop hike or a through hike)? What are the water sources like?

Lean towards the easy side of the difficulty spectrum for your first overnight backpacking trip

The Howe Sound Crest Trail, West Coast Trail, Rockwall Trail, and John Muir Trail are all fantastic, but not for your first backcountry adventure. When choosing a trail, pick one you think will be easy and save longer or more challenging hikes for future adventures. Even if you’re accustomed to crushing epic day hikes , your first backpacking trip isn’t about pushing the envelope. 

Instead, your first trip is all about getting comfortable with the preparation and execution components, the addition of a 35lb backpack and making sure everything works the way you want it to. Start small and if possible, select a hike that offers designated backcountry camping areas with a few basics like tent pads, outhouses, or bear boxes. These small “amenities” can really help make things easier on your first adventure, saving you the trouble of campsite selection, cat-hole digging (more on this later), and hanging/storing your food. Furthermore, it’s important to select a hike that follows a well-marked trail unless you have some experience wielding a compass alongside a topographic map.

Sunset hiking

How many nights for your first overnight hike?

For your first hike into the backcountry, make it short and sweet and go for 1 night. A short trip means far fewer meals to worry about, less planning, and a lighter pack. Plus, in the worst case scenario that the weather turns foul or something goes drastically wrong, you’re that much closer to your starting point. If you’re planning a more ambitious trip in the near future, use your first one-nighter as a test run and a great opportunity to try out your gear.

What gear should you pack for a backpacking trip?

Ok, so you’ve picked a fantastic trail for your first overnight backcountry camping trip, you’ve done your research, and you’re comfortable with the logistics. Now it’s time to pack!  What do you already have? What do you need to bring? Before you drop thousands of dollars on new equipment, let’s dive into the gear list.

Backpacking and overnight hiking packing list

Backpack

For your first overnight hike, you’re going to want a backpack in the range of 50L to 65L with a sturdy adjustable harness and hipbelt. Maybe you have a great pack with similar specs that you’ve used for travelling (we’ve seen many people repurpose our Khmer Explorer Travel Set for overnight hikes with great success) or perhaps you have a friend who can loan you their pack. If you’re out of luck on both fronts, check out rental options. Typically, MEC & REI offer rental packs at affordable rates which are a great option for your first trip, especially if you’re not ready to fully commit to backpacking as a full-time hobby! Whatever route you choose, make sure to try the pack out before setting out to ensure it’s properly adjusted with the hip belt doing the majority of the work!

If you’re ready to invest in backpacking gear checkout the Gregory Focal or Women’s specific Facet which at ~2.5lbs provide a great compromise between barebones ultralight packs and the heavier feature-laden packs. 

If you’re going to immediately strive for an ultralight set up, check out the Hyperlite 3400 southwest. It’s 100% waterproof and constructed from ultralight dyneema fabric.

Morning views from campsite after backpacking

Tent

A great tent is an investment that can last you for years. That said, it is definitely an investment in the sense that it can easily run in excess of $400. If you own a tent already and it’s reasonably compact/lightweight, it should serve you fine for your first backcountry camping adventure. Don’t own a tent? Once again, try to borrow one from a friend or look to rent one from your local outdoor gear shop and add in this vital piece of equipment once you get a better feel for how you like to backpack (ultralight, comfort, etc.).

For many new backpackers tents like the  Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 or the  Nemo Dagger OMSO offer the perfect blend of functionality, livability, weight, and durability. 

Sleeping pad

From foam mats to full inflatables there’s lots of variety on this front too (including price variety). For your first time out, opt for value (i.e. rent or borrow) once again and upgrade later. I used a basic foam mat for years, which I had terrible sleeps on. 

A few years ago l I switched to a Therm-a-Rest. It’s incredibly lightweight, comfortable, and packs down to the size of a Nalgene bottle. This is probably one of my favorite backpacking items! Try it out. You won’t regret it. Sleep well!

Sleeping bag

Depending on where you’re hiking this can be something to give a bit more consideration to. If you’re heading into the mountains, weather can be inclement so you’ll want to ensure you have a bag with a decent temperature rating (or plenty of layers to compensate for a chilly night). Sleeping bags generally offer a choice between down and synthetic. Down tends to be more expensive, but more durable, lighter, and compressible with the only downfall (aside from the ethics question) being its extremely poor performance when wet. Synthetic performs better when wet and tends to be more affordable.

I’m in love with my Patagonia sleeping bag!!  It’s unbelievably lightweight and packs down small. I found the 30°F / -1°C to be perfect for most outings – if it gets colder you can always layer up! Like all Patagonia products, it’s not cheap, but they stand behind their gear and the quality matches the price point. If you spend a lot of time in colder environments they also make a 20°F / -7°C version.  These bags are a worthwhile splurge!

Sunset on Vancouver Island's West Coast Trail

Backpacking pillow

For many hardcore backpackers a pillow consists of a dry bag stuffed with unworn clothing.  Personally, I won’t leave home without a backpacking pillow no matter how light I’m travelling.  Check out the Big Agnes Q-Core Deluxe Pillow It packs down ultra small and provides a new level of comfort after long days on the trail.

First aid kit

An essential item for treating everything from bug bites to blisters. The pre-built kits from Adventure Medical Kits have served me well on many adventurers. At the end of your trip write down any items you used and replace them so they’re ready for your next adventure. You can also build your own.

Swiss army knife

From cutting bandages to serving as the star of your backcountry kitchen, a swiss army knife  is a must-have item for any trip into the backcountry.   

A good camp stove. Always a key item in any backpacking packing list

Stove and canister

A single burner canister stove like  MSR pocket rocket is perfectly suited for all your cooking needs. Don’t forget to buy a canister too! 

Cookware and utensils

A pot (which also doubles as a bowl), a cup for coffee/tea and a spork are all you need. If you’re looking for a value option, remove the handle from an old kitchen pot and bring along a pair of pliers.

I love the GSI Halulite Microdualist II, two-person cookset. It’s lightweight and I can fit my MSR pocket rocket and a fuel canister inside. Check out the MSR PocketRocket Stove Kit for an all-inclusive solution.

Water filtration system

For purifying water, I’m a huge fan of the Steripen. It’s a small, lightweight and efficient way to ensure water is safe for consumption using UV light to purify a litre in about a minute. It’s also a fantastic item to bring along travelling, so even if you decide backpacking isn’t for you, you’ll still be over the moon about your SteriPen. Other options include gravity filters and purification tablets. For the first time out, purification tablets are the least expensive option, assuming you can get past the somewhat chemical taste of your water. 

Make sure to bring tablets as a backup though should you run into any technical problems/dead battery with your Steripen.

A dry bag is an essential item to pack on a backpacking trip

Dry bag

Dry bags like our No Sugar | Dry Bag Kit are great for stuffing and compressing clothes or your sleeping bag to ensure they don’t get wet even if you get stuck in torrential rain.

For a budget and ultralight option, line your pack with a contractors size garbage bag.

Bear canister & bear spray (Region Dependent)

If you’re hiking in grizzly bear country, you’ll want to add bear spray to your packing list and make sure that you know how to use it. Additionally, certain national parks like Yoesmite and Grand Teton may require that you’re equipped with an approved bear canister as well.

Additional items to pack for backpacking:

    • Waterproof Matches
    • Firestarters – For emergency situations
    • Whistle (blast 3 times for emergencies)
    • CampSuds / Biodegradable Soap – For dishes etc.  or just use some water and a rock to clean. 
    • Water Bottle – Nalgene 1L
    • Additional Water Bottle or Water Storage (depending on what your research has told you about water availability)
    • Headlamp – The Spot 350 is the way to go with 6 modes including the night vision saving red light! Red light mode takes a minute to get used to, but once you do it’s a total game changer trust me! The stars never looked so good! 
    • Small USB Phone Charger (and cable)
    • Bug Spray
    • Sunscreen
    • Sunglasses
    • Toothpaste
    • Toothbrush
    • Toiletries / Hand Sanitizer
    • Lip Balm 
    • Trowel
    • Toilet Paper
    • Compass
    • Topographic Map
    • GPS App  ( I like GAIA app)
    • Deck of cards

What clothes should you pack for a backpacking trip?

Here is a standard list of items for your overnight hike. Adapt, add, or remove accordingly depending on the weather/climate of your destination and the number of days you plan to go for. 

Hiking boots/hiking shoes/trail runners

Whether you choose to hike with a boot, hiking shoe or lighter trail runner is largely personal preference. Trail runners provide the agility and weight advantage, but boots often get the edge for support/sturdiness, especially if your pack is on the heavy side.

 I’ve had great luck with the La Sportiva Bushido II. When I’m carrying more gear/weight or if there’s a chance of snow, I’ll wear a larger more traditional hiking boot, like the Scarpa Kailash.

Camp shoes/sandals

Crocs are back! Well for backpacking camp shoes they never left… They’re lightweight and ugly as ever. Many backpackers find them to be the perfect camp shoe for resting sore feat after a long day in boots/shoes.

Personally, I still hate them. I have an old pair of Tom’s which I occasionally bring. They are light and less bulky than Crocs. If going with a trail runner, I’ll often ditch the camp shoe altogether and just loosen my laces. Your call!  

Puff jacket

I’ve had the Patagonia Men’s Nano Puff® Hoody for years. It’s perfect multi-functional item for everyday, backpacking, and pretty much anything where you might need a bit of warmth. I’m still looking for an activity it doesn’t work for. They also make the Nano Puff in a women’s version.

Rainproof / windproof jacket

An essential piece for wind, rain, snow. I’ve had great luck with an older version of the MEC Flash Cloud. Also check out the Patagonia Torrentshell  (or Womens version).

Rain pants

Mountain weather can change fast and rain pants are an absolute lifesaver to have in your backpacking kit. Many have the ability to quickly take them on and off without removing your shoes/boots allowing you to stay comfortable eveb if you get caught in a sudden downpour. Check out the Torrentshell in mens or womens.  

Hiking pants

I never thought I’d see the day I embraced the zip-off pant. But hey, they’re really the best of both worlds for rapidly changing mountain environments and keeping warm in the evening when the temperature drops. Check out the Quandary Pant for a great option.

Sun hoodie

When I went backpacking in the Grand Canyon a few years back, I was shocked to see throngs of Arizona Trail thru-hikers wearing hoodies in the 40 C (100F) heat. Turns out they were onto something! A sun hoodie has been one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking kit. They keep you burn free, are surprisingly cool, and let you get away with leaving the bottle of sunscreen at home. The Sahara Sun Hoodie (men’s/women’s) from REI has served me well or check out these ones from Outdoor Research (men’s / women’s).

A couple of base layer shirts

Avoid cotton shirts unless it’s a super leisurely hike. Merino wool is great as it stays warm when wet and won’t stink. Sweat wicking althletic shirts also work great. I have a few pairs of these Capilene Cool shirts that are great! 

Base layer bottom

A merino bottom baselayer are perfect for warming up at night or during chilly mornings.

A couple pairs of merino wool socks

Socks are a critical part of your backpacking wardrobe. A great pair of merino wool socks are an essential investment. They stay warm when wet, don’t stink, and will last for years. Darn Tough Vermont makes the best hiking socks hands down. They’re guaranteed for life/replaced free of charge and they don’t stink. Really! I typically bring 3 pair. 1 pair for hiking, 1 pair to change into at camp, and a reserve to throw into the rotation as needed. 

Underwear

Patagonia makes fantastic underwear with quality, durability, and comfort far exceeding lululemon, and saxx (I’ve tried both). You decide how many or how few you bring….   They also make womens’ underwear, but I am unable to advise on fit, form, function or durability on this front… 

Additional essential clothing items

    • 1 pair of shorts/extra change of pants
    • Hat (Toque and sun hat)
    • Gloves

Should you bring hiking poles backpacking?

I once had an ego and thought I didn’t need poles. Then I completed the Howe Sound Crest Trail and my knees screamed at me for the next week. My overweight pack and lack of poles were to blame. Poles are great for reducing the strain of long grueling descents and providing extra stability on exposed sections.  Do yourself a favor and get a pair of poles! For a reliable entry level option try these Black Diamond Poles or consider upgrading to the carbon fiber to save extra weight.

Meal planning for backcountry camping

Meal planning is one of the most critical steps of any backcountry adventure. Do it right and you’ll be eating like a king without the burden of carrying excess weight. Do it poorly, and you’ll either be hungry or severely overbunded by the weight of excess food. This is where the critical step of meal planning comes into play.

Start by counting out the number of meals and snacks you’ll be hiking or in the backcountry for and then allocate food to each. For simplicity, freeze dried meals (just add boiling water) like Backpackers Pantry are always an option, but at $10+ a meal, they’re definitely not for the price conscious. Alternatively, look for “just add water” items at your grocery store like ramen, instant soups, rices, etc. Additionally, numerous incredible recipes can be found for amazing DIY backpacking meals. Check out this list from Fresh Off the Grid for some inspiration! 

No matter what you’re cooking, try to minimize the packaging you bring along. Don’t bring items in cans or glass jars and consolidate larger boxed items into more packable ziplock bags. Small steps like these save large amounts of weight and volume in your pack. It’s never a bad idea to pack more food than you think you need especially on your first couple of trips. I’d happily add an extra pound to my pack for the extra peace of mind to know that should the trip take longer or if I’m hungrier than anticipated, I came prepared. 

To help you get started, here’s a summary of the meal prep I might use for a 3 night backpacking trip. I know, I recommended only heading out for 1 night for your first trip, but I figured I’d show a plan for an extra day to give you a few more menu options! Note this a plant-based meal prep, but much can be played with to accommodate different dietary preferences.

Cooking a great dinner after a long day of backpacking.

2 night backpacking trip meal plan

Backpacking breakfast (day 1)

Take the time to eat at home, on the road, or at the trailhead prior to staring. Make it a big one. It will be your last home cooked meal for a few days!

Backpacking snacks (day 1)

Inevitably, you’ll break up a big day on the trail with a couple short stops to take in your surroundings or an incredible viewpoint. This is also a great opportunity to graze by grabbing for your favourite bar (Cliff, Lara, Kind, etc.), fruit leather, nuts, or trail mix. Typically, I’ll go for 1 bar in the mid morning and 1 bar and an apple in the afternoon to help keep the energy up!  

Backpacking lunch (day 1)

Sandwich or wrap made prior to departure. 

Backpacking dinner (day 1)

Chickpea Plant Based Mac and Cheese.

Up the protein game with chickpea pasta like this mac and cheese from Banza. Use powdered coconut or cashew milk to avoid carrying liquids on the trail. Add plant based bacon bits or real bacon bits depending on your dietary preference. Finish up with your favourite chocolate bar or candy.

Backpacking breakfast (day 2)

Quick Oats with Dried Fruit. 

Stoked Oats are my personal favorite. Don’t forget the coffee! Starbucks Via instant takes up no space and doesn’t taste like instant coffee. For coffee snobs who don’t mind carrying a bit of extra weight, consider purchasing an Aeropress for gourmet coffee in the backcountry.

Backpacking snacks (day 2)

We had a good thing going on Day 1. So, let’s stick with it! Pack a couple servings of bars, nuts, trail mix or fruit leather.

Backpacking lunch (day 2)

Tortillas with Refried Beans. 

Backpacking dinner (day 2)

Lentil Rice & “Tuna”

I‘m a huge fan of finding things in the grocery store isle that are packed with protein, but basically just add water.. The right rice “Tuna” is the way to go. It combines lentil “rice” with a plant based tuna for monster satisfaction. 

    • Boil water
    • Add Right Rice and stir. Wait a few minutes.
    • Add plant based Tuna or regular fish in a package (no cans!). Stir to combine.

Eat and enjoy! 

Finish off your feast with your favourite chocolate bar or candy. 

Backpacking breakfast (day 3)

Repeat breakfast with Day 2’s breakfast! Embrace the oats! 

Backpacking snacks (day 3)

Final set of snacks from Day 1. For a third time a couple servings of bars, nuts, trail mix, or fruit leather.

Backpacking lunch (day 3)

We’re keeping it simple once again. Either do tortillas again with refried beans, or a bagel with some form of nut butter. 

Backpacking dinner (day 3)

Hopefully you’re off the trail by this point. Treat yourself to a hard earned beer and dinner out! 

How much should your backpack weigh for a backpacking trip?

As a baseline, your pack should not exceed 20% of your body weight. Following this rule will ensure you remain nimble enough on the trail and avoid overburdening yourself. Unfortunately, for any petite readers, this rule becomes much more challenging, requiring you to choose between going ultra lightweight or breaking this rule. 

Leave on footprints

How do you take a poo while hiking 💩?

Human waste is a major source of pathogens (disease causing agents), so it’s absolutely essential to take the proper steps to maximize decomposition and environmental harm. If you’re new to pooping in the woods, here are the steps to follow: 

    1. Find a spot with dark, rich soil at least 100 meters from any water sources or potential water sources.
    2. Use the trowel (from the packing list) to dig a cathole at least 6 inches deep. If possible, try to unearth the soil like a plug which allows for easy replacement when you’re done.
    3. Do the deed. 
    4. If using toilet paper, you have to bag this out. Do not put it in the cathole as it takes substantially longer to decompose and break down. If you’ve ever wandered across some used TP on the trail you know how disgusting this is. So don’t do it to someone else! Use a plastic bag or ziplock. You can even wrap the outside in duct tape so you don’t have to see it. Alternatively, you can also try natural wipes. Smooth stones, sticks, snow, or moss (where it’s abundant) all work great. Avoid plant leaves (think poison ivy…).   
    5. Once you’ve finished, put in a bit of fresh soil and replace the plug. 
    6. Give your hands a good wash or hand sanitization away from a water source once again. 

Waste and leaving no trace

Leave only footprints, take only memories. We’ve all heard the expression before, but this applies even more intensely to your journey into the delicate backcountry environment. It is absolutely essential to carry everything you brought in out, properly dispose of waste, and follow leave no trace guidelines. 

Everything you pack in must come out with you. That means everything. Be careful when opening bars/packaging that you do not leave wrappers or small pieces behind. If you see other people’s garbage on the trail, be a hero, and throw it in your garbage bag.  

From day hikes to backpacking trips everytime you set out, ensure you’re following and familiar with the Leave No Trace 7 Principles:

    1. Plan Ahead and Prepare
    2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
    3. Dispose of Waste Properly
    4. Leave What You Find
    5. Minimize Campfire Impacts
    6. Respect Wildlife
    7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors

Leave No Trace Seven Principles © 1999 by the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics: www.LNT.org.

Brown Bear walks out of the forest.

How to stay safe backpacking in bear country

Bear attacks are extremely rare and the vast majority of aggressive bear action is driven by protection of food, space or territory. For your own safety and the safety of the bears it is important to take precautions when hiking in bear country. Here’s a few steps to take to ensure your safety:

Travel in a group

By travelling in a group you’ll make more noise and emit more human smells. Bears, which are generally human averse, are thus more likely to remove themselves from your presence long before you have any idea they were there.

Make noise

Clapping, loud talking, your worst singing, and shouting will encourage a bear to vacate the area before you and your group arrive. Make additional noise when a fellow hiker, ranger, or advisory has made you aware of a bear in the area to ensure you give it ample notice of your presence. 

Store food properly

When it comes to storing your food, you can hang your food, use a designated campsite bear locker (likes the ones on the Rockwall Trail) or use a bear canister/Ursack. Making your own bear hang is quite an art that even many experienced backpackers fail to master. Unless you’re ready and able to commit to mastering it by following this comprehensive bear hanging tutorial, get a bear canister.   For several people go with the BV500 for solo adventures the BV450 works great.  This is unquestionably your best and safest bet when hard infrastructure bear lockers or pulley systems are not available and required in many US National Parks.  To save weight Ursacks are also a great option, but they need to be tied to a tree and don’t prevent your food from being crushed and smashed by a hungry bear.

Mind your surroundings and the time of day

Walking near a river? It may be more challenging for bears to hear you, so make extra noise to alert them of your presence in advance. 

Travelling upwind/against the wind? Bears have a highly acute sense of smell, but against the wind you may reach them before the smell of you does, so be extra loud. It’s also important to make extra noise when travelling through berry patches or undulating terrain where you might sneak up on a bear buffet. Lastly, be extra aware during the early morning and evening as these are times that bears tend to be the most active.  

Look for the signs

Keep your eyes open for tracks and fresh scat (poop). If you notice these signs, make lots of noise. Additionally, if you happen to come across any decomposing carcasses, make lots of noise and vacate the area as bears are often drawn to a free and easy meal. 

Bring bear spray and know how to use it

Bear spray has been proven to be an effective deterrent against aggressive bears so it’s a great item to bring along. Learn how to use it before you head out, pop the safety off and give it a test just make sure to be aware of the wind direction in advance. Remember to keep it handy in a holster (don’t put it inside your pack). Unfortunately, it only works in close contact with bears and not as repellent. So do not go rubbing it on yourself. If you’re flying to your adventure, you’ll have to buy bear spray when you arrive at your destination, as it’s a prohibited item on most airlines (checked luggage and carry-on). Additionally, this tends to be more commonly purchased item for hiking in Grizzly country, in black bear country it isn’t as common. In fact, several US National Parks, like Sequoia, explicitly ban it. So, don’t bring it on the Rae Lakes Loop! 

Cook away from your camp and properly store your food

As mentioned earlier, bears have an extremely acute sense of smell. For this reason it’s absolutely essential to remove any items that smell from your camp area. Fragrant items like toothpaste, sunscreen, and soap should all be placed in your food storage bag and hung or placed in a bear canister. Set up a triangle. Your campsite/tent should be 100 meters away from the area you cook in and the spot you hang your food should be 100 meters away from the cooking area and the storage area. Preferably both food spots (kitchen & storage) will be upwind from your campsite as well. 

Know what to do if you encounter a bear on the trail

If you see a bear from a distance, respect its space and consider going back the way that you came. If you must get around the bear, take a very wide girth around. If you happen to encounter a bear in close proximity on the trail, remain calm, unholster your bear spray, remove the safety and stick with your group. Back away slowly in the direction that you came and talk calmly to the bear to help it identify you. DO NOT RUN! Running can trigger the bear’s prey instinct. 

In the unlikely event that the bear decides to charg, this is the time to use your bear spray. The vast majority of charges are bluff charges. In the worst case scenario where a bear actually attacks, do the following:

Grizzly Bear – Lay on the ground on your stomach as the bear makes contact (not sooner as this could trigger a mauling), playing dead and covering your neck and head for protection. In most attacks Grizzlies will bite or swipe a couple times before moving on. If the attack persists, fight back. 

Black Bear – Fight back. Attack the muzzle concentrating on the nose and eyes.

Final thoughts

By taking the proper steps to research, plan, and prepare, your first backcountry hiking trip is sure to be one of the best adventures of your year. After cutting your teeth on the experience, I’m sure that you’ll likely find yourself hooked. You’ll become more efficient at planning, you’ll dial into your gear setup, and constantly be on the hunt for your next backpacking adventure. The hardest part is taking the first trip, which hopefully you’re now just a little bit closer to doing! 

Happy adventuring! 

Did I miss any advice that would have been helpful? How did your first backpacking trip turn out? Let me know in the comments below!

View along the Rockwall Trail towards Floe Lake.

Rockwall Trail | The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the Rockwall

The Rockwall Trail is one of the Canadian Rockies’ premier backpacking trips. For 55km you’ll be treated to a seemingly unending supply of sublime Rocky Mountain scenery. Here’s how to make it happen with must-read tips for getting a permit and beating the crowds.

Michael

Michael

Michael manages the gear side of Banana Backpacks and thoroughly enjoys spending his days playing with or dreaming of zippers, fabrics, and buckles. When he's not working on gear, you'll probably find him planning a whirlwind overseas trip or backcountry camping adventure.
Michael

Michael

Michael manages the gear side of Banana Backpacks and thoroughly enjoys spending his days playing with or dreaming of zippers, fabrics, and buckles. When he's not working on gear, you'll probably find him planning a whirlwind overseas trip or backcountry camping adventure.
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Howe Sound Crest Trail – The Ultimate Guide for Hiking the HSCT

View from Magnesia Meadows on the Howe Sound Crest Trail

The Howe Sound Crest Trail (HSCT) serves up a taste of incredible BC backcountry only minutes from downtown Vancouver!  For over 29 km the trail rapidly climbs and descends along the spine of the Howe Sound Crest past iconic peaks like the Lions, James Peak, Mt. Harvey, and Brunswick Mountain. Along this epic hike you’ll be inundated with stunning vistas of the Coast Mountain Range and the Howe Sound far below.  The Howe Sound Crest Trail is ambitious 1-2 night backpacking trip (or epic trail run) that features several small scrambles, mild exposure, and a few precarious spots with chains/ropes.   If you’re expecting tent pads, bear lockers, toilets or anything that feels remotely similar to established backpacking trips like Elfin lakes, this isn’t the hike for you.  That said, the HSCT rewards intrepid backpackers with a trip unmatched by anything with this proximity to Vancouver. 

* Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links. If you click one of the links and make a purchase we’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. We’re very particular about products and we only recommend products, services, or accommodation we trust and use ourselves.*

Need to know for hiking the Howe Sound Crest Trail

    • Difficulty: Tough
    • Distance: 29 km Official Distance from BC Parks (28 km according to my GPS)
    • Elevation Gain: 1700 m (Cypress Mountain to Porteau Cove)
    • Elevation Loss: 2500 m (Cypress Mountain to Porteau Cove)
    • Permit Required: Not required
    • Navigation: Established trail that is relatively easy to follow
    • Water Sources: First ~ 1/2 can be dry particularly in late season. Carry enough water to reach the tarn at Magnesia Meadows
    • Food Storage/Bears: Bear canister or Ursack needed. No established bear caches on trail.
    • Best Campsite walked past or stayed at: Magnesia Meadows.
    • Trail advisories and info link: BC Parks Cypress

Things you’ll love about backpacking the HSCT

    • Easy access from Vancouver.
    • Incredible scenery with the hike traversing the crest of the Howe Sound.
    • True backcountry experience with no established campsites. 
    • Incredible lakes and peak bagging opportunities.
    • Easily manageable weekend trip.

Things you won’t love about backpacking the HSCT

    • Requires shuttling cars or arranging a pickup/drop-off from Porteau Cove
    • Steep descents and rope sections can be tricky with a heavy pack. 
    • Limited water availability on first half of hike (heading south to north) in summer and fall. 
    • Having to hike with/past the throngs of day hikers to St. Marks Summit.
    • The last 3.5km to Porteau Cover are an anticlimactic trudge along a road. 
The Lions on the Howe Sound Crest Trail

What to pack for backpacking the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Here’s a quick summary of what to pack for backpacking the Howe Sound Crest Trail. You’ll find a detailed breakdown of each item at the end of the post with rational, alternatives and quick links to check prices.

Don’t Forget

Essential Items

  •  

Clothing and Accessories 

Additional Items

Luxury Items (very optional)

How to get to the Howe Sound Crest Trail

The Howe Sound Crest Trail is typically done as a point-to-point hike from south to north starting from Cypress mountain near West Vancouver and finishing at Porteau cove. North to south navigation is also possible, but adds significant elevation gain to your hike (see below).  

There is no Translink (public bus) available to Cypress mountain or Porteau cove, but Cypress Coach Lines does offer transportation to the Cypress Provincial Park during the summer months and into the middle of September. You can also take an Uber/Lyft directly to Cypress mountain.  

The HSCT is a point-to-point hike and you need a solution for returning (or getting to) from Porteau Cove. For this you’ll either need to bribe someone to pick you up, drop a car in advance,  or be forced to try your luck hitchhiking.

If you wan’t to beat yourself up with even more elevation, you can take Translink (public transit) to Horseshoe Bay and hike up the Baden Powell to Cypress Mountain .  This adds an extra 9km and over 1000 meters of elevation gain to an already long and strenuous adventure.  I did this in 2019 when ride-share apps or the private bus were not available. It made for a long, brutal day with close to 3000 meters of elevation gain. 

Should you hike the HSCT North to South or South to North?

The Howe Sound Crest Trail is typically hiked from South to North (Cypress Mountain to Porteau Cove) as going this route decreases your net elevation gain.  Choosing this direction, you’ll climb 1700 m and descend 2500 m vs the reverse on North to South itineraries.  

 Either way you slice it, the beginning and end are somewhat anticlimactic bookends to this amazing hike. You’ll either be slogging your way down a gravel road for 4km to finish or pushing past throngs of day hikers on the ever popular Saint Marks Summit. 

Can you bring dogs on the Howe Sound Crest Trail?

No, BC parks states that Backcountry areas are not suitable for dogs or other pets due to wildlife issues and the potential for problems with bears. Additionally, there are several segments of the HSCT that your dog will not be able to negotiate.  Every year there are several forced evacuations as a result of people trying, so leave your dog at home for this one

Can you have campfires?

No, campfires are not allowed on the HSCT. 

View from the campsite at magnesia meadows on the Howe Sound Crest Trail
Photo Credit Stephen Evans

Campsites on the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Only wilderness camping is available on the HSCT. That means you will not find any amenities like outhouses, tent pads or bear hangs/caches. Rules for minimum impact camping must be adhered to.  Make sure to:

    • Properly store all food using either a Bear canister or Ursack.
    • Bring a trowel and dig a cathole a minimum of 6 inches deep and at least 200m away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.). Pack out your TP.

While no established campsites exist there are several locations that are frequently used and incredible spots to spend the night.

Magnesia Meadows

About 15 km from the start of the Howe Sound Crest Trail, Magnesia Meadows is a logical camping spot for a 1 night trip. Situated in a beautiful alpine meadow the sublime sunset views of Mt. Harvey and the Howe Sound (see photo above)  are the perfect balm for aching legs. There is a good water source here provided by a small tarn,  that is close walk from the emergency shelter area where most people camp.

Brunswick Lake

19 km from the start of the trail Brunswick Lake is another excellent spot to camp and works particularly well for those looking to shorten their second day on the trail (and lengthen their first day). Brunswick lake is picturesque and a great spot to cool off on a hot summers day!  Continue past the emergency shelter at Brunswick Lake  before taking a right at the fork (South to North hikers) and head towards the lakes south shore for the best camping spots.  

Deeks Lake

22 km from the start of the trail, Deeks Lake is your final (appealing) option to camp on the HSCT. After this point, the trail follows along Deeks creek before becoming quite uneventful. While both Brunswick and Magnesia are far better camping options, this site placement may be convenient for North to South hikers looking for a spot to camp on night 1 after a late start. 

Near the Tarn by Unnecessary Mountain

For those looking to complete the HSCT in a couple nights, via a South to North traverse, you have to get a bit creative. Look for a faint trail leading to several small tarns in the basin to the South of the HSCT after descending slightly from Unnecessary Mountain. You’ll be forced to drop about 50m of elevation off the main trail and the route here is not always clear, but there are few other options for camping (with water) before Magnesia meadows.

View from St Marks Summit near Cypress Mountain

How long will it take to hike the Howe Sound Crest Trail

To give you an approximate idea, here’s my rough timing for the Howe Sound Crest Trail done as 2 days and 1 night.  I added several hours by hiking up the Baden Powell trail to Cypress Mountain from Horseshoe Bay to start my first day (wouldn’t recommend). 

As a baseline, I’d classify my pace on the faster side, but my gear setup was alot heavier when I did this hike, so ultra-lighters can definitely shave some time off. Either way, leave early on day one to avoid hiking in the dark, especially in the fall as the days grow shorter. This is a tough hike with lots of elevation gain and loss and numerous sections that are very slow going.  The kilometer distance is deceiving and it feels way longer than it is. 

These were my approximate times:

Horseshoe Bay to Cypress Mountain via Baden Powell Trail – 2.5 hrs

Cypress Mountain to Magnesia Meadows (with a couple quick stops and maybe 20-30 minute lunch) – 9 hours

Magnesia Meadows to Highway 99 (including add on up Brunswick Mountain, swim in Brunswick lake and lunch) – 7 hours

Sections of the Howe Sound Crest Trail

I’ve broken this trip down into sections with approximate distance and elevation gains/loss based on the standard  South to North route. Note there is a 1km variance between my GPS measured distance and BC stated distance for the Howe Sound Crest Trail.. 

Cypress Mountain to St. Marks Summit

500 m Elevation Gain (50M loss)
6 km

From the overnight parking lot at Cypress Mountain hike to  the main ski area until you see the day lodge is on your left hand side, then head toward the main wooden sign post for the ski resort. You should see several sign posts indicating St. Marks summit and the Howe Sound Crest Trail, this is where your hike begins. 

The first 5ish km of the Howe Sound Crest Trail meander through the trees before making several switchbacks to the top of St. Marks summit. The first part of the trail is relatively uneventful and can be busy. St. Marks Summit is a hugely popular day-hike and the throngs of running shoe, jean clad, hikers may leave you wondering if you’ve somehow gotten lost … Fear not, following St. Marks the crowds thin and the hike becomes a lot quieter (and more enjoyable).

Once you’ve reached the summit of St. Marks, follow the path off to the left to find the best view spots and take a moment to savor your first great vista. You likely won’t have the view to yourself, but it’s gorgeous nonetheless and worthy of a snack stop.

Once you’ve savored the views, the trail drop steeply down the backside of St. Marks before beginning the steep ascent up the appropriately named Mt. Unnecessary.

St. Marks to Mt. Unnecessary

350 m Elevation Gain (150M loss)
3 km

I found the ascent up Unnecessary to be the most mentally taxing, although far from the most technically challenging. It’s in the trees, your pack is at its heaviest (assuming you haven’t already eaten too much food) and the toll of descending St. Marks just to make an unnecessary up again is a slog.  Fortunately, after grunting your way up for a while, the trees begin to thin out and you’re granted an incredible view of the Howe Sound – the perfect antidote to unnecessary suffering!

The Lions from Unnecessary mountain

Unnecessary Mountain to West Lion

150 m Elevation Gain (100M loss)
1.5 km

From the top of Unnecessary mountain you’ll make a scramble down a steep roped section before the grade eases briefly as you continue towards the base of the Lions. Keep your eyes peeled for a small trail to the right that provides a  detour and option to fill up your water via steep descent to the tarns below.   If you’re planning a multi-nighter, there are also a few spots in here to  camp within reach of the tarns.

From this point, the trail begins to ascend steeply giving you a taste of the scrambling and challenges to come! Near the top of the ridge a stunning view awaits with huge cliffs dropping off around you! If you’re spending several nights on the trail, or if time allows, the West Lion provides an opportunity for a scramble and the chance to bag another summit on your epic Howe Sound Crest Trail adventure. 

Near the intersection with the trail to the top of the West Lion, the HSCT cuts down to the right and the more technical part begins!

West Lion to James Peak

200 m Elevation Gain (350M loss)
2 km

After losing 50 meters of elevation the trail climbs a  rock ledges around the south side of the West Lion, giving you your first taste of some exposure . Following this traverse, you descend briefly into a gully between the West Lion and Thomas peak before climbing back up towards Thomas Peak.  After the viewpoint near Thomas Peak, you’ll descend steeply losing significant elevation partially through a talus field full of ankle twisters. Keep your eyes peeled for the occasional orange trail marker indicating that you’re on the right path. Towards the left side of the field you’ll exit and begin a steep journey to Enchantment Pass and James Peak.  On the summit of James Peak, you’ll find a chain rope that can be used to help you cross a thrilling ridge!  Once across, James peak opens up into a meadow – a great spot to stop and catch your breath!

Scaling the ropes accross James Peak
Photo Credit Stephen Evans

James Peak to David Peak to Magnesia Meadows:

250 m Elevation Gain (200M loss)
2.5 km

When you’re ready to continue, look for orange markers that descend through the meadow towards the left side. Avoid the false trails leading straight, they end abruptly in a descent suitable only for those equipped with a squirrel suit!

Once you’ve completed your descent through the meadow afterJames peak, you’ll come to a fork in the road. The left fork leads up and over David peak with a steep scramble through the bush and several roped sections. To the right, the trail circumnavigates David peak, losing significant elevation before forcing you to regain it.  At time of hiking, the route to the left over David peak appeared to be the only option and was clearly marked as the main route. 

After ascending and steeply descending David peak the trail veers to the left towards Harvey pass and through a field of berry bushes. Make lots of noise in this area, as tons of ripe berries make this prime prime bear feeding territory late in the season. I spooked a black bear here on my hike. 

Once you’ve ascended through the berry-lane you’ll reach a fork in the trail with a path to Mount Harvey on the left and the HSCT continuing right.  Breathe a sigh of relief, as you spot the Magnesia Meadows emergency shelter 0.5 km up the trail. Magnesia Meadows is a stunning location to spend the night. The views here of Mount Harvey and the Howe Sound are nothing short of spectacular! Set up camp, savour the sunset and rest well, the hardest part of the Howe Sound is now behind you!

View from Magnesia Meadows

Magnesia Meadows to Brunswick Mountain trail:

150 m Elevation Gain (100M loss)
2 km

After packing up camp or taking a break at Magnesia Meadows, continue past the emergency shelter before following the trail as it veers to the left below Brunswick Mountain.  The trail moves through the trees and several meadows offer views of Mt. Harvey. to the left.  After 2km you’ll encounter a fork in the road where the HSCT meets Brunswick Mountain trail. If you’re up for it, dump your pack (remove your bear can from your backpack) and scramble up 250 meters of elevation in 0.7 km to bag Brunswick Mountain. From the top of Brunswick you’ll enjoy incredible views of the Howe Sound, a now small seeming Mt. Harvey, and the Coast mountain range that stretches for miles into the distance.

Brunswick Mountain on the howe sound crest trail
Photo credit Stephen Evans

Brunswick Mountain to Brunswick lake:

Negligible Elevation Gain (300M loss)
2 kM

When you’ve finished the detour up Brunswick mountain, continue along the trail towards Hat Pass. After reaching Hat Pass your big ascents are finished and it’s time for nearly 2500m of bone crunching descent back to Highway 99.   Just past Hat Pass and a large pond, the trail make the rapid descent towards Brunswick Lake, losing nearly 300m of elevation in just over one kilometer. Brunswick lake is a great spot for a refreshing dip to help cool those aching muscles and joints before continuing the bone crunching descent, just make sure you’re sunscreen and bug spray free before going in!  

Brunswick lake the perfect spot for a swim
Photos credit Stephen Evans

Brunswick Lake to Deeks Lake

50 m Elevation Gain (250M loss)
3 km

After you’ve enjoyed some time relaxing at Brunswick lake follow the fork to the left and cross a small rock bridge (another great spot to swim). The trail links up with Deeks creek and follows it for most of the way down to Deeks lake. You’ll make several cress crossings and navigate one small roped section on the way down passing Hanover Lake along the way. Upon reaching Deeks lake you’ll traverse the lakes western side through beautiful forest and mossy grounds until reaching a log jammed area and campsite on the lake’s southern end. 

Deeks Lake
Photo credit Stephen Evans

Deeks Lake to Highway 99

50 m Elevation Gain (1000 M loss)
6 km

From Deeks Lake the trail continues its descent and passes a small waterfall before continuing on what becomes an evermore uneventful descent through the forest. From the boundary of Cypress Provincial Park, you’ll slog the last 3.5km along a gravel road before shooting out near Porteau Road and Highway 99 to call it a wrap. 

Chuck off your pack, pat yourself on the back and drive down the road for a celebratory brew or post adventure feast in Squamish! 

Itinerary Options for the Howe Sound Crest Trail

There a few ways to hike the HSCT, so let’s take a look. These itineraries are in the standard South to North direction popular with most hikers. 

  *Note my GPS calculated mileage is about a km shorter than the listed distance provided by BC parks, so be aware of the potential for slight variance in these estimates. 

 

incredible view along the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Howe Sound Crest Trail in 1 Night 2 Days - South to North Option 1

    • Day 1: Cypress Mountain to Magnesia Meadows
      • 15 km
      • 1450 m Elevation Gain
      • 850 m Elevation Loss
    • Day 2: Magnesia Meadows to Porteau Cove (Highway 99)
      •  13 km
      • 250 m Elevation Gain
      • 1650 m Elevation Loss

Notes & Thoughts

This is my preferred itinerary for this trip. The first day is tough with some sections that feel extremely slow going. The trail on the second day moves much faster. The views from Magnesia Meadows are sublime making it a perfect spot to camp that’s conveniently just past the half-way mark of the trip. The side. trip up Brunswick Mountain is worthwhile and easily completed early on the 2nd day with this trip plan (mileage and elevation of this side-trip is not included in the above). 

Howe Sound Crest Trail in 1 Night 2 Days - South to North Option 2

    • Day 1: Cypress Mountain to Brunswick Lake
      • 19 km
      • 1600 m Elevation Gain
      • 1250 m Elevation Loss
    • Day 2: Brunswick Lake to Porteau Cove (Highway 99)
      • 9 km
      • 100 m Elevation Gain
      • 1250 m Elevation Loss 

Notes & Thoughts

If you still have your legs and want to push on past Magnesia Meadows, Brunswick Lake is another great spot to camp only 4km further down the trail. It’s easier going after reaching Magnesia Meadows and almost all downhill and not technical. An early start on day 1 makes this itinerary feasible, if a shorter day is preferred/required on day 2.

Howe Sound Crest Trail

Howe Sound Crest Trail in 2 Night 3 Days

    • Day 1: Cypress Mountain to between Unnecessary Mountain and the Lions.
      • Approx. 9 to10 km
      • Approx.  ~850 m to1000 m Elevation Gain
      • Approx.  300 m Elevation Loss
    • Day 2: Between Unnecessary Mountain and the Lions to Brunswick Lake
      •  Approx. ~ 8.5 km to 10 km
      • Approx.  600 m to 800 m Elevation Gain
      • Approx.  650 m Loss 
    • Day 3: Brunswick Lake to Porteau Cove (Highway 99)
      •  9 km
      • 100 m Elevation Gain
      • 1250 m Loss 

Notes & Thoughts

Campsite selection is a bit janky when we add an extra day and attempt to even out the mileage. Ultimately, you’re forced to seek out a site somewhere between Unnecessary Mountain and the West Lion, ideally near the couple tarns to the south of the main trail. Despite the small mileage, day 2 may still feel challenging as you navigate the more challenging sections of the trail. The lower km count is helpful here (vs. the one night itineraries). The hike out on Day 3 is smooth sailing from Brunswick Lake to the highway. 

Packing List Breakdown for the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Since I first hiked the Howe Sound Crest Trail, I’ve changed my gear setup quite a bit and moved towards a lightweight setup. Backpacking trips like this or the Rockwall Trail are a lot more enjoyable when you’re carrying less weight, making it easier to cover more distance in less time.

That said, if you’re new to backpacking, don’t stress out about buying the latest and greatest equipment. Save money and use things you already own  or borrow things from a friend. Later, when you’ve gained more experience, modify your kit and change out gear as you get a better understanding of what creature comforts you can and can’t live without.

With this in mind, here’s a list of gear suggestions for taking this trip.

Essential Gear to Pack

Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 Tent in Sequoia National Park at Rae Lakes
My Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 Tent in Sequoia National Park.

Tent

I upgraded to Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 last year.  It’s semi-freestanding (needs to be staked), double walled and weighs in at a mere 2.5 lbs. Unlike many 2-person tents, it doesn’t have a tapered floor and can fit 2 extra wide sleeping pads side-by-side with no overlap. A rare feature in this class of tent!  It’s cozy, but workable for two and palatial for one!  I debated between this tent and the MSR Freelite and ultimately chose the MH as it was in-stock. The MH Strato doesn’t seem to be as readily available in Canada, so you may want to go for the MSR Freelite to avoid the risk of paying duty shipping the MH from a retailer in the US.  Ultimately, both are a great lightweight tents with similar features, but feel very fragile given their lightweight components.  If you’re looking for more durability/resilience these aren’t the tents for you. 

If you’re looking for a completely freestanding tent that offers more durability, check out the Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2. It’s unique blend of functionality, livability, weight, and durability earn high praise and Big Agnes’s customer service is outstanding!  

osprey exos backpack
Me using the Osprey Exos in Zion National Park

Hiking Backpack

If you’re relatively new to backpacking and building out your kit slowly, there is nothing wrong with using a large size travel backpack with a decent suspension system and padded hipbelt or borrowing a pack from a friend. This gives you time to decide what features you need and whether or not backpacking (and the gear) is something you’re going to invest in.  When I first started backpacking, I used my Khmer Explorer Travel Set on the West Coast Trail and Sunshine Coast Trail which worked great despite my poor packing skills (don’t recommend backpacking with 55lbs…)!  

If you’ve begun dialing in your backpacking kit,  check out the Gregory Focal or Women’s specific Facet. At ~2.5lbs these packs provide a great compromise between barebones ultralight packs and the heavier feature laden packs. The Osprey Exos (men’s) & Eja (women’s) backpacks are also great packs comparable in features and weight.  

If you’re ready to go to an extreme level of gram counting and have eliminated all creature comforts check out the Hyperlite 3400 southwest. It’s 100% waterproof and constructed from ultra light dyneema fabric. Being ultralight, you’ll sacrifice features, so if you hate getting a swampy back (that’s me) you may prefer the Osprey or Gregory despite the weight penalty. Backpacking gear is always a zero sum game! 

Sleeping Mat

I used to have terrible sleeps in the backcountry until I switched to the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xlite. It’s incredibly lightweight, comfortable and packs down to the size of a Nalgene bottle. This is probably one of my favorite backpacking items! Try it out. You won’t regret it. Sleep well!

Backpacking Pillow

Yes, you can sleep with a pillow not made of bunched up clothes in the backcountry.  I love the Nemo Fillo Elite, but they’re harder to find in Canada. Fortunately, the Therm-a-Rest Head Down Pillow is a similar concept, weight and size. 

Patagonia Sleeping Bag in a tent

Sleeping Bag

I can’t speak highly enough of Patagonia’s Fitz Roy sleeping bags I invested in one several years ago. It’s unbelievably lightweight and packs down small. I found the 30°F / -1°C to be perfect for most outings. Like all Patagonia products, it’s not cheap, but they stand behind their gear and the quality matches the price point. If you spend a lot of time in colder environments they also make a 20°F / -7°C version.  These bags are a very worthwhile splurge you won’t be disappointed in.

If you’re looking for an even lighter-weight option, consider going for a sleeping bag quilt. Feathered Friends  Flicker UL Quilt Sleeping Bag has won numerous awards and is a stalwart among ultralight backpackers. With a weight starting at  526 g (1 lb 2.5 oz), I can see why!  

Water Purification

I love the Steripen. It’s light, portable and only takes minutes to purify a liter of water in a Nalgene. Press the button, place the pen in your bottle, and stir for a couple minutes. It’s like magic! Make sure to bring a few purification tablets as a backup should you run into any technical problems/dead battery with your Steripen.

Swiss Army Knife

Fixing gear, cutting food, a swiss army knife is your go to everything too for backpacking.

Stove & Fuel

Lightweight, convenient, and reliable, the MSR pocket rocket has been my go to backpacking stove for years.

Lighter & Matches

A bring a small baby Bic lighter (in a mini-ziplock to keep it dry) & a few matches as a failsafe.

Cookset

I love the GSI Halulite Microdualist II, Two-person cookset. It’s lightweight and I can fit my MSR pocket rocket and a fuel canister inside. If you don’t already have a stove, consider the MSR PocketRocket Stove Kit for an all-inclusive solution.

Water Bottle

Nalgenes are always a backcountry favorite. If you’re cutting weight or looking for a way to save a buck, a simple smart water is the go-to for ultralight backpackers. I’ve recently moved to a hydration reservoir as it allows me to stay hydrated continuously without stopping to grab and open a bottle.

Extra Water storage

Extra water storage capacity makes cooking that much easier and camp life more enjoyable so make sure to invest in something like the MSR DromLite Bag V2. It’s also a must for a trip without reliable water sources like the Howe Sound Crest Trail (later in the year) where hauling more water may be essential.

First Aid Kit

From blisters, to scrapes, and cuts. A first aid kit is an essential item to have.  The pre-built kits from Adventure Medical Kits have served me well on many adventurers. At the end of your trip write down any items you used and replace them so they’re ready for your next adventure.

Trowel, Toilet Paper, & Hand Sanitizer

The HSCT does not have any established outhouses, so you’ll  need  a trowel to dig a cathole when nature calls.  Follow minimum impact camping principals and go at least 200m away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.).  Pack your TP out, I know it’s gross, but just do it. 

Don’t forget a  small bottle (1 oz) of hand sanitizer.

Hiking Poles

I thought poles where only used by retirees trekking the Swiss Alps, then I completed the Howe Sound Crest Trail and my knees screamed at me for the next week. My overweight pack and lack of poles were to blame. Poles are great for reducing the strain of long grueling descents and providing extra stability on exposed sections. They let you hike faster and further with less pain and strain! Invest in a pair and you’ll never go back. Poles vary widely in price and style with weight/material having the largest influence on price.  Even an inexpensive pair will be helpful! I’ve had great luck with these Leki’s, but Black Diamond poles are also great. 

Headlamp

The Spot 500-R is the way to go with 9 modes including the night vision saving red light!  Red light mode takes a minute to get used to, but once you do it’s a total game changer trust me! The stars never looked so good!  The Spot 500-R is rechargable, but with a batter life of over 19 hrs on medium and 7hrs on high it should get you through the trip!

Bear Spray

When traveling in bear country, Bear Spray is a must. Make sure to remove the packaging and check the expiration date before heading out.

Bear Canister or Ursack * Don't Forget

Keeping your food safe from bears is an essential part of keeping you safe and being a responsible backpacker. The Howe Sound Crest Trail doesn’t offer any food storage so bring a bear canister to keep your food safe. They’re bulky, they’re annoying to pack, but they work well as stools and are far more convenient and effective than hanging your food. For several people go with the BV500 for solo adventures the BV450 works great.  To save weight Ursacks are also a great option, but they need to be tied to a tree and don’t prevent your food from being crushed and smashed by a hungry bear.

Don”t overlook safe food storage, as if a bear gets into your food it will need to be destroyed.  End of story. 

GPS, Compass & Map

Download the GAIA app for maps and gps. I always bring a traditional compass and topographic map as well in the case of technical problems or dead batteries.

Luxury Items to Pack

These items are extreme luxuries, but may be worth it depending on your weight priorities and the distance you plan to cover. I’d only  consider these items on a low distance or base camp style hike given their added weight and bulk. 

Backpacking Chair

After a long day on the trail there’s nothing better than finding a nice comfortable spot to rest your weary glutes. Check out the Big Agnes Mica Basin Camp Chair or the Helinox Chair One.  Both weigh around 1kg, and are light enough to justify bringing on slower/easier backpacking trips where weight isn’t as big of consideration or for trips where you’re taking day trips from an established base camp.

Hammock at the North Rim Campground at the Grand Canyon
Double Nest Hammock at the North Rim Campground in Grand Canyon National Park

Hammock

If you’ve never strung up a hammock between two trees deep in the backcountry you’re missing out! Nothing beats getting horizontal with some great reading material in the pre-dinner hours or taking in an amazing sunset from your own outdoor couch.  The ENO Double Nest has room for two and at ½ kg  it’s hardly even a splurge to pack.  P.S don’t forget the straps to hang it.

Clothing & Accessories to Pack

Shell Jacket

An essential piece for wind, rain, and snow. The Arc’teryx Beta shell is the best all around shell jacket. This shell performs in all adverse conditions and is the perfect outer layer for rainy days, or cool nights. Arc’teryx gear is expensive, but impeccably designed. I was skeptical for years, until I purchased a few pieces of their trail running gear and got hooked. If you’re looking for the best reviewed hiking shell out there, this is the one. 

For another excellent option that is more economical,  check out the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L. 

Puff Jacket

I’ve had the Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody for years and it works great on it’s own or underneath a shell for extra warmth. It’s a perfect multi-functional item for everyday, backpacking, and pretty much anything where you might need a bit of warmth. I’m still looking for an activity it doesn’t work for. 

Rainpants

You leave camp on sunny day breaking sweat over a pass, only to have storm clouds roll in an hour later and dump sleet on you. Rainpants are lifesaver for rapidly changing mountain weather!  Many have the functionality for quickly taking them on and off without removing your shoes/boots allowing you to stay comfortable even if you get caught in a sudden downpour.  I’ve been happy with the Black Diamond StormLine Rain Pants. The Patagonia Torrentshell pants are also a great option. 

Sun hoodie

When I went backpacking in the Grand Canyon a few years back, I was shocked to see throngs of Arizona Trail thru-hikers wearing hoodies in the  40 C heat. Turns out they weren’t just lost tech bros in the Grand Canyon, they were really onto something! A sun hoodie has been one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking kit. They keep you burn free, are surprisingly cool, and let you get away with leaving the bottle of sunscreen at home (or bringing way less). The Sahara Sun Hoodie from REI is one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking wardrobe and you can’t beat the price. 

Zip Off / Convertible Hiking Pants

I never thought I’d see the day I embraced the zip-off pant. But hey, they’re really the best of both worlds for rapidly changing mountain environments and keeping warm in the evening when the temperature drops. Check out the Quandary Pant for a great option.

A pair of shorts

In addition to hiking pants, it’s nice to have a pair of shorts to change into after a long day on the trail or as a backup option. Trail running shorts are light and comfortable. 

Base layer top

In addition to a sun hoodie, I also bring one base layer top to change into at camp or have as an alternate. The Capilene Cool trail  t-shirts work great for me on long hikes and trail runs, but pretty much any athletic quick-dry top will work fine. 

Base Layer Bottom

A merino wool or synthetic bottom baselayer is perfect for warming up at night or during chilly mornings.

Underwear

I’ve had the best luck with Patagonia underwear for hiking, trail running, mountain biking and skiing and found them to be more durable than the more expensive ones from lululemon. I usually bring a 2-3 pair depending on trip length. 

3 Pairs of Hiking Socks

Darn Tough Vermont makes the best hiking socks hands down. They’re guaranteed for life/replaced free of charge and they don’t stink. Really! I typically bring 3 pair. 1 pair for hiking, 1 pair to change into at camp, and a reserve to throw into the rotation as needed. 

Gloves

I typically bring a thin weatherproof pair of trail running gloves, like these. 

Sun Hat & Winter Hat/Toque

A cap or Tilley hat keeps your face protected from the intense mountain sun. A toque is great for warming up during chilly mornings or evenings. 

Sunglasses

Protect your eyes, don’t forget to bring your Sunglasses!

Trail Runners or Boots - Are Trail Runners or Hiking Boots Better for the HSCT?​

The answer here is it depends! If you have your backpack weight down to less than 20-25lbs and have a decent amount of backpacking experience, trail runners are the way to go during the summer months. If you’re going at a time when snowfall and colder weather are a possibility go with boots. Boots are also a better choice if you have a heavier pack and are newer to backpacking as they provide more stability and sturdiness. You also feel rough sections of the trail substantially less on the base of your feet!  

For cold weather or if I need to carry more weight I’ll use my Scarpa Kailash Hiking Boots.  During the summer months and with a light load I’d wear my La Sportiva Bushido II.

Camp Shoes

Crocs are back! Well for backpacking camp shoes they never left… They’re lightweight and ugly as ever. Many backpackers find them to be the perfect camp shoe for resting sore feat after a long day in boots/shoes.

Personally, I still hate them. I have an old pair of Tom’s which I occasionally bring. They are light and less bulky than Crocs. If going with a trail runner, I’ll often ditch the camp shoe altogether and just loosen my laces. Your call!  

Microspikes

Kahtoola Microspikes slip effortlessly over your boots and make walking on snow and ice a breeze. These are absolutely essential for early season travel.

Low Gaiters

Low gaiters are perfect for keeping rocks, sand, and snow out of your trail runners/boots and preventing blisters.

Bug Spray

Toothbrush & Toothpaste

I recently started packing these toothpaste tabs in a tiny plastic bag/ziplock to save more space.

Sunscreen & SPF Lip Balm

Duct Tape (For Repairs and Blisters)

Food

Everyone has different takes and caloric requirements, so I’m not going to tell you exactly what to bring. I generally avoid the just add water meals you find at REI or MEC.  They’re overpriced and often don’t rehydrate as you’d like. Check out these incredible soups and chilis they taste better, are made with better ingredients, and are less expensive. As another option,  I head to the grocery store and search for things like lentil rice, ramen, or plant-based mac & cheese. They’re basically just add/boil quickly meals and taste like real food. Always rebag/repack this type of food as there is no reason to carry unnecessary packaging on the trail.

Final thoughts on hiking the Howe Sound Crest Trail

The Howe Sound Crest Trail offers an incredible backcountry experience to properly prepared adventurers. If you have questions drop me a note in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help you out! Happy hiking friend! 

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View along the Rockwall Trail towards Floe Lake.

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Michael

Michael

Michael manages the gear side of Banana Backpacks and thoroughly enjoys spending his days playing with or dreaming of zippers, fabrics, and buckles. When he's not working on gear, you'll probably find him planning a whirlwind overseas trip or backcountry camping adventure.
Michael

Michael

Michael manages the gear side of Banana Backpacks and thoroughly enjoys spending his days playing with or dreaming of zippers, fabrics, and buckles. When he's not working on gear, you'll probably find him planning a whirlwind overseas trip or backcountry camping adventure.