Howe Sound Crest Trail – The Ultimate Guide for Hiking the HSCT

View from Magnesia Meadows on the Howe Sound Crest Trail

The Howe Sound Crest Trail (HSCT) serves up a taste of incredible BC backcountry only minutes from downtown Vancouver!  For over 29 km the trail rapidly climbs and descends along the spine of the Howe Sound Crest past iconic peaks like the Lions, James Peak, Mt. Harvey, and Brunswick Mountain. Along this epic hike you’ll be inundated with stunning vistas of the Coast Mountain Range and the Howe Sound far below.  The Howe Sound Crest Trail is ambitious 1-2 night backpacking trip (or epic trail run) that features several small scrambles, mild exposure, and a few precarious spots with chains/ropes.   If you’re expecting tent pads, bear lockers, toilets or anything that feels remotely similar to established backpacking trips like Elfin lakes, this isn’t the hike for you.  That said, the HSCT rewards intrepid backpackers with a trip unmatched by anything with this proximity to Vancouver. 

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Need to know for hiking the Howe Sound Crest Trail

    • Difficulty: Tough
    • Distance: 29 km Official Distance from BC Parks (28 km according to my GPS)
    • Elevation Gain: 1700 m (Cypress Mountain to Porteau Cove)
    • Elevation Loss: 2500 m (Cypress Mountain to Porteau Cove)
    • Permit Required: Not required
    • Navigation: Established trail that is relatively easy to follow
    • Water Sources: First ~ 1/2 can be dry particularly in late season. Carry enough water to reach the tarn at Magnesia Meadows
    • Food Storage/Bears: Bear canister or Ursack needed. No established bear caches on trail.
    • Best Campsite walked past or stayed at: Magnesia Meadows.
    • Trail advisories and info link: BC Parks Cypress

Things you’ll love about backpacking the HSCT

    • Easy access from Vancouver.
    • Incredible scenery with the hike traversing the crest of the Howe Sound.
    • True backcountry experience with no established campsites. 
    • Incredible lakes and peak bagging opportunities.
    • Easily manageable weekend trip.

Things you won’t love about backpacking the HSCT

    • Requires shuttling cars or arranging a pickup/drop-off from Porteau Cove
    • Steep descents and rope sections can be tricky with a heavy pack. 
    • Limited water availability on first half of hike (heading south to north) in summer and fall. 
    • Having to hike with/past the throngs of day hikers to St. Marks Summit.
    • The last 3.5km to Porteau Cover are an anticlimactic trudge along a road. 
The Lions on the Howe Sound Crest Trail

What to pack for backpacking the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Here’s a quick summary of what to pack for backpacking the Howe Sound Crest Trail. You’ll find a detailed breakdown of each item at the end of the post with rational, alternatives and quick links to check prices.

Clothing and Accessories 

Additional Items

Luxury Items (very optional)

*We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

How to get to the Howe Sound Crest Trail

The Howe Sound Crest Trail is typically done as a point-to-point hike from south to north starting from Cypress mountain near West Vancouver and finishing at Porteau cove. North to south navigation is also possible, but adds significant elevation gain to your hike (see below).  

There is no Translink (public bus) available to Cypress mountain or Porteau cove, but Cypress Coach Lines does offer transportation to the Cypress Provincial Park during the summer months and into the middle of September. You can also take an Uber/Lyft directly to Cypress mountain.  

The HSCT is a point-to-point hike and you need a solution for returning (or getting to) from Porteau Cove. For this you’ll either need to bribe someone to pick you up, drop a car in advance,  or be forced to try your luck hitchhiking.

If you wan’t to beat yourself up with even more elevation, you can take Translink (public transit) to Horseshoe Bay and hike up the Baden Powell to Cypress Mountain .  This adds an extra 9km and over 1000 meters of elevation gain to an already long and strenuous adventure.  I did this in 2019 when ride-share apps or the private bus were not available. It made for a long, brutal day with close to 3000 meters of elevation gain. 

Should you hike the HSCT North to South or South to North?

The Howe Sound Crest Trail is typically hiked from South to North (Cypress Mountain to Porteau Cove) as going this route decreases your net elevation gain.  Choosing this direction, you’ll climb 1700 m and descend 2500 m vs the reverse on North to South itineraries.  

 Either way you slice it, the beginning and end are somewhat anticlimactic bookends to this amazing hike. You’ll either be slogging your way down a gravel road for 4km to finish or pushing past throngs of day hikers on the ever popular Saint Marks Summit. 

Can you bring dogs on the Howe Sound Crest Trail?

No, BC parks states that Backcountry areas are not suitable for dogs or other pets due to wildlife issues and the potential for problems with bears. Additionally, there are several segments of the HSCT that your dog will not be able to negotiate.  Every year there are several forced evacuations as a result of people trying, so leave your dog at home for this one

Can you have campfires?

No, campfires are not allowed on the HSCT. 

View from the campsite at magnesia meadows on the Howe Sound Crest Trail
Photo Credit Stephen Evans

Campsites on the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Only wilderness camping is available on the HSCT. That means you will not find any amenities like outhouses, tent pads or bear hangs/caches. Rules for minimum impact camping must be adhered to.  Make sure to:

    • Properly store all food using either a Bear canister or Ursack.
    • Bring a trowel and dig a cathole a minimum of 6 inches deep and at least 200m away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.). Pack out your TP.

While no established campsites exist there are several locations that are frequently used and incredible spots to spend the night.

Magnesia Meadows

About 15 km from the start of the Howe Sound Crest Trail, Magnesia Meadows is a logical camping spot for a 1 night trip. Situated in a beautiful alpine meadow the sublime sunset views of Mt. Harvey and the Howe Sound (see photo above)  are the perfect balm for aching legs. There is a good water source here provided by a small tarn,  that is close walk from the emergency shelter area where most people camp.

Brunswick Lake

19 km from the start of the trail Brunswick Lake is another excellent spot to camp and works particularly well for those looking to shorten their second day on the trail (and lengthen their first day). Brunswick lake is picturesque and a great spot to cool off on a hot summers day!  Continue past the emergency shelter at Brunswick Lake  before taking a right at the fork (South to North hikers) and head towards the lakes south shore for the best camping spots.  

Deeks Lake

22 km from the start of the trail, Deeks Lake is your final (appealing) option to camp on the HSCT. After this point, the trail follows along Deeks creek before becoming quite uneventful. While both Brunswick and Magnesia are far better camping options, this site placement may be convenient for North to South hikers looking for a spot to camp on night 1 after a late start. 

Near the Tarn by Unnecessary Mountain

For those looking to complete the HSCT in a couple nights, via a South to North traverse, you have to get a bit creative. Look for a faint trail leading to several small tarns in the basin to the South of the HSCT after descending slightly from Unnecessary Mountain. You’ll be forced to drop about 50m of elevation off the main trail and the route here is not always clear, but there are few other options for camping (with water) before Magnesia meadows.

View from St Marks Summit near Cypress Mountain

How long will it take to hike the Howe Sound Crest Trail

To give you an approximate idea, here’s my rough timing for the Howe Sound Crest Trail done as 2 days and 1 night.  I added several hours by hiking up the Baden Powell trail to Cypress Mountain from Horseshoe Bay to start my first day (wouldn’t recommend). 

As a baseline, I’d classify my pace on the faster side, but my gear setup was alot heavier when I did this hike, so ultra-lighters can definitely shave some time off. Either way, leave early on day one to avoid hiking in the dark, especially in the fall as the days grow shorter. This is a tough hike with lots of elevation gain and loss and numerous sections that are very slow going.  The kilometer distance is deceiving and it feels way longer than it is. 

These were my approximate times:

Horseshoe Bay to Cypress Mountain via Baden Powell Trail – 2.5 hrs

Cypress Mountain to Magnesia Meadows (with a couple quick stops and maybe 20-30 minute lunch) – 9 hours

Magnesia Meadows to Highway 99 (including add on up Brunswick Mountain, swim in Brunswick lake and lunch) – 7 hours

Sections of the Howe Sound Crest Trail

I’ve broken this trip down into sections with approximate distance and elevation gains/loss based on the standard  South to North route. Note there is a 1km variance between my GPS measured distance and BC stated distance for the Howe Sound Crest Trail.. 

Cypress Mountain to St. Marks Summit

500 m Elevation Gain (50M loss)
6 km

From the overnight parking lot at Cypress Mountain hike to  the main ski area until you see the day lodge is on your left hand side, then head toward the main wooden sign post for the ski resort. You should see several sign posts indicating St. Marks summit and the Howe Sound Crest Trail, this is where your hike begins. 

The first 5ish km of the Howe Sound Crest Trail meander through the trees before making several switchbacks to the top of St. Marks summit. The first part of the trail is relatively uneventful and can be busy. St. Marks Summit is a hugely popular day-hike and the throngs of running shoe, jean clad, hikers may leave you wondering if you’ve somehow gotten lost … Fear not, following St. Marks the crowds thin and the hike becomes a lot quieter (and more enjoyable).

Once you’ve reached the summit of St. Marks, follow the path off to the left to find the best view spots and take a moment to savor your first great vista. You likely won’t have the view to yourself, but it’s gorgeous nonetheless and worthy of a snack stop.

Once you’ve savored the views, the trail drop steeply down the backside of St. Marks before beginning the steep ascent up the appropriately named Mt. Unnecessary.

St. Marks to Mt. Unnecessary

350 m Elevation Gain (150M loss)
3 km

I found the ascent up Unnecessary to be the most mentally taxing, although far from the most technically challenging. It’s in the trees, your pack is at its heaviest (assuming you haven’t already eaten too much food) and the toll of descending St. Marks just to make an unnecessary up again is a slog.  Fortunately, after grunting your way up for a while, the trees begin to thin out and you’re granted an incredible view of the Howe Sound – the perfect antidote to unnecessary suffering!

The Lions from Unnecessary mountain

Unnecessary Mountain to West Lion

150 m Elevation Gain (100M loss)
1.5 km

From the top of Unnecessary mountain you’ll make a scramble down a steep roped section before the grade eases briefly as you continue towards the base of the Lions. Keep your eyes peeled for a small trail to the right that provides a  detour and option to fill up your water via steep descent to the tarns below.   If you’re planning a multi-nighter, there are also a few spots in here to  camp within reach of the tarns.

From this point, the trail begins to ascend steeply giving you a taste of the scrambling and challenges to come! Near the top of the ridge a stunning view awaits with huge cliffs dropping off around you! If you’re spending several nights on the trail, or if time allows, the West Lion provides an opportunity for a scramble and the chance to bag another summit on your epic Howe Sound Crest Trail adventure. 

Near the intersection with the trail to the top of the West Lion, the HSCT cuts down to the right and the more technical part begins!

West Lion to James Peak

200 m Elevation Gain (350M loss)
2 km

After losing 50 meters of elevation the trail climbs a  rock ledges around the south side of the West Lion, giving you your first taste of some exposure . Following this traverse, you descend briefly into a gully between the West Lion and Thomas peak before climbing back up towards Thomas Peak.  After the viewpoint near Thomas Peak, you’ll descend steeply losing significant elevation partially through a talus field full of ankle twisters. Keep your eyes peeled for the occasional orange trail marker indicating that you’re on the right path. Towards the left side of the field you’ll exit and begin a steep journey to Enchantment Pass and James Peak.  On the summit of James Peak, you’ll find a chain rope that can be used to help you cross a thrilling ridge!  Once across, James peak opens up into a meadow – a great spot to stop and catch your breath!

Scaling the ropes accross James Peak
Photo Credit Stephen Evans

James Peak to David Peak to Magnesia Meadows:

250 m Elevation Gain (200M loss)
2.5 km

When you’re ready to continue, look for orange markers that descend through the meadow towards the left side. Avoid the false trails leading straight, they end abruptly in a descent suitable only for those equipped with a squirrel suit!

Once you’ve completed your descent through the meadow afterJames peak, you’ll come to a fork in the road. The left fork leads up and over David peak with a steep scramble through the bush and several roped sections. To the right, the trail circumnavigates David peak, losing significant elevation before forcing you to regain it.  At time of hiking, the route to the left over David peak appeared to be the only option and was clearly marked as the main route. 

After ascending and steeply descending David peak the trail veers to the left towards Harvey pass and through a field of berry bushes. Make lots of noise in this area, as tons of ripe berries make this prime prime bear feeding territory late in the season. I spooked a black bear here on my hike. 

Once you’ve ascended through the berry-lane you’ll reach a fork in the trail with a path to Mount Harvey on the left and the HSCT continuing right.  Breathe a sigh of relief, as you spot the Magnesia Meadows emergency shelter 0.5 km up the trail. Magnesia Meadows is a stunning location to spend the night. The views here of Mount Harvey and the Howe Sound are nothing short of spectacular! Set up camp, savour the sunset and rest well, the hardest part of the Howe Sound is now behind you!

View from Magnesia Meadows

Magnesia Meadows to Brunswick Mountain trail:

150 m Elevation Gain (100M loss)
2 km

After packing up camp or taking a break at Magnesia Meadows, continue past the emergency shelter before following the trail as it veers to the left below Brunswick Mountain.  The trail moves through the trees and several meadows offer views of Mt. Harvey. to the left.  After 2km you’ll encounter a fork in the road where the HSCT meets Brunswick Mountain trail. If you’re up for it, dump your pack (remove your bear can from your backpack) and scramble up 250 meters of elevation in 0.7 km to bag Brunswick Mountain. From the top of Brunswick you’ll enjoy incredible views of the Howe Sound, a now small seeming Mt. Harvey, and the Coast mountain range that stretches for miles into the distance.

Brunswick Mountain on the howe sound crest trail
Photo credit Stephen Evans

Brunswick Mountain to Brunswick lake:

Negligible Elevation Gain (300M loss)
2 kM

When you’ve finished the detour up Brunswick mountain, continue along the trail towards Hat Pass. After reaching Hat Pass your big ascents are finished and it’s time for nearly 2500m of bone crunching descent back to Highway 99.   Just past Hat Pass and a large pond, the trail make the rapid descent towards Brunswick Lake, losing nearly 300m of elevation in just over one kilometer. Brunswick lake is a great spot for a refreshing dip to help cool those aching muscles and joints before continuing the bone crunching descent, just make sure you’re sunscreen and bug spray free before going in!  

Brunswick lake the perfect spot for a swim
Photos credit Stephen Evans

Brunswick Lake to Deeks Lake

50 m Elevation Gain (250M loss)
3 km

After you’ve enjoyed some time relaxing at Brunswick lake follow the fork to the left and cross a small rock bridge (another great spot to swim). The trail links up with Deeks creek and follows it for most of the way down to Deeks lake. You’ll make several cress crossings and navigate one small roped section on the way down passing Hanover Lake along the way. Upon reaching Deeks lake you’ll traverse the lakes western side through beautiful forest and mossy grounds until reaching a log jammed area and campsite on the lake’s southern end. 

Deeks Lake
Photo credit Stephen Evans

Deeks Lake to Highway 99

50 m Elevation Gain (1000 M loss)
6 km

From Deeks Lake the trail continues its descent and passes a small waterfall before continuing on what becomes an evermore uneventful descent through the forest. From the boundary of Cypress Provincial Park, you’ll slog the last 3.5km along a gravel road before shooting out near Porteau Road and Highway 99 to call it a wrap. 

Chuck off your pack, pat yourself on the back and drive down the road for a celebratory brew or post adventure feast in Squamish! 

Itinerary Options for the Howe Sound Crest Trail

There a few ways to hike the HSCT, so let’s take a look. These itineraries are in the standard South to North direction popular with most hikers. 

  *Note my GPS calculated mileage is about a km shorter than the listed distance provided by BC parks, so be aware of the potential for slight variance in these estimates. 

 

incredible view along the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Howe Sound Crest Trail in 1 Night 2 Days - South to North Option 1

    • Day 1: Cypress Mountain to Magnesia Meadows
      • 15 km
      • 1450 m Elevation Gain
      • 850 m Elevation Loss
    • Day 2: Magnesia Meadows to Porteau Cove (Highway 99)
      •  13 km
      • 250 m Elevation Gain
      • 1650 m Elevation Loss

Notes & Thoughts

This is my preferred itinerary for this trip. The first day is tough with some sections that feel extremely slow going. The trail on the second day moves much faster. The views from Magnesia Meadows are sublime making it a perfect spot to camp that’s conveniently just past the half-way mark of the trip. The side. trip up Brunswick Mountain is worthwhile and easily completed early on the 2nd day with this trip plan (mileage and elevation of this side-trip is not included in the above). 

Howe Sound Crest Trail in 1 Night 2 Days - South to North Option 2

    • Day 1: Cypress Mountain to Brunswick Lake
      • 19 km
      • 1600 m Elevation Gain
      • 1250 m Elevation Loss
    • Day 2: Brunswick Lake to Porteau Cove (Highway 99)
      • 9 km
      • 100 m Elevation Gain
      • 1250 m Elevation Loss 

Notes & Thoughts

If you still have your legs and want to push on past Magnesia Meadows, Brunswick Lake is another great spot to camp only 4km further down the trail. It’s easier going after reaching Magnesia Meadows and almost all downhill and not technical. An early start on day 1 makes this itinerary feasible, if a shorter day is preferred/required on day 2.

Howe Sound Crest Trail

Howe Sound Crest Trail in 2 Night 3 Days

    • Day 1: Cypress Mountain to between Unnecessary Mountain and the Lions.
      • Approx. 9 to10 km
      • Approx.  ~850 m to1000 m Elevation Gain
      • Approx.  300 m Elevation Loss
    • Day 2: Between Unnecessary Mountain and the Lions to Brunswick Lake
      •  Approx. ~ 8.5 km to 10 km
      • Approx.  600 m to 800 m Elevation Gain
      • Approx.  650 m Loss 
    • Day 3: Brunswick Lake to Porteau Cove (Highway 99)
      •  9 km
      • 100 m Elevation Gain
      • 1250 m Loss 

Notes & Thoughts

Campsite selection is a bit janky when we add an extra day and attempt to even out the mileage. Ultimately, you’re forced to seek out a site somewhere between Unnecessary Mountain and the West Lion, ideally near the couple tarns to the south of the main trail. Despite the small mileage, day 2 may still feel challenging as you navigate the more challenging sections of the trail. The lower km count is helpful here (vs. the one night itineraries). The hike out on Day 3 is smooth sailing from Brunswick Lake to the highway. 

Packing List Breakdown for the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Since I first hiked the Howe Sound Crest Trail, I’ve changed my gear setup quite a bit and moved towards a lightweight setup. Backpacking trips like this or the Rockwall Trail are a lot more enjoyable when you’re carrying less weight, making it easier to cover more distance in less time.

That said, if you’re new to backpacking, don’t stress out about buying the latest and greatest equipment. Save money and use things you already own  or borrow things from a friend. Later, when you’ve gained more experience, modify your kit and change out gear as you get a better understanding of what creature comforts you can and can’t live without.

With this in mind, here’s a list of gear suggestions for taking this trip.

Essential Gear to Pack

Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 Tent in Sequoia National Park at Rae Lakes
My Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 Tent in Sequoia National Park.

Tent

I upgraded to Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 last year.  It’s semi-freestanding (needs to be staked), double walled and weighs in at a mere 2.5 lbs. Unlike many 2-person tents, it doesn’t have a tapered floor and can fit 2 extra wide sleeping pads side-by-side with no overlap. A rare feature in this class of tent!  It’s cozy, but workable for two and palatial for one!  I debated between this tent and the MSR Freelite and ultimately chose the MH as it was in-stock. The MH Strato doesn’t seem to be as readily available in Canada, so you may want to go for the MSR Freelite to avoid the risk of paying duty shipping the MH from a retailer in the US.  Ultimately, both are a great lightweight tents with similar features, but feel very fragile given their lightweight components.  If you’re looking for more durability/resilience these aren’t the tents for you. 

If you’re looking for a completely freestanding tent that offers more durability, check out the Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2. It’s unique blend of functionality, livability, weight, and durability earn high praise and Big Agnes’s customer service is outstanding!  

osprey exos backpack
Me using the Osprey Exos in Zion National Park

Hiking Backpack

If you’re relatively new to backpacking and building out your kit slowly, there is nothing wrong with using a large size travel backpack with a decent suspension system and padded hipbelt or borrowing a pack from a friend. This gives you time to decide what features you need and whether or not backpacking (and the gear) is something you’re going to invest in.  When I first started backpacking, I used my Khmer Explorer Travel Set on the West Coast Trail and Sunshine Coast Trail which worked great despite my poor packing skills (don’t recommend backpacking with 55lbs…)!  

If you’ve begun dialing in your backpacking kit,  check out the Gregory Focal or Women’s specific Facet. At ~2.5lbs these packs provide a great compromise between barebones ultralight packs and the heavier feature laden packs. The Osprey Exos (men’s) & Eja (women’s) backpacks are also great packs comparable in features and weight.  

If you’re ready to go to an extreme level of gram counting and have eliminated all creature comforts check out the Hyperlite 3400 southwest. It’s 100% waterproof and constructed from ultra light dyneema fabric. Being ultralight, you’ll sacrifice features, so if you hate getting a swampy back (that’s me) you may prefer the Osprey or Gregory despite the weight penalty. Backpacking gear is always a zero sum game! 

Sleeping Mat

I used to have terrible sleeps in the backcountry until I switched to the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xlite. It’s incredibly lightweight, comfortable and packs down to the size of a Nalgene bottle. This is probably one of my favorite backpacking items! Try it out. You won’t regret it. Sleep well!

Backpacking Pillow

Yes, you can sleep with a pillow not made of bunched up clothes in the backcountry.  I love the Nemo Fillo Elite, but they’re harder to find in Canada. Fortunately, the Therm-a-Rest Head Down Pillow is a similar concept, weight and size. 

Patagonia Sleeping Bag in a tent

Sleeping Bag

I can’t speak highly enough of Patagonia’s Fitz Roy sleeping bags I invested in one several years ago. It’s unbelievably lightweight and packs down small. I found the 30°F / -1°C to be perfect for most outings. Like all Patagonia products, it’s not cheap, but they stand behind their gear and the quality matches the price point. If you spend a lot of time in colder environments they also make a 20°F / -7°C version.  These bags are a very worthwhile splurge you won’t be disappointed in.

If you’re looking for an even lighter-weight option, consider going for a sleeping bag quilt. Feathered Friends  Flicker UL Quilt Sleeping Bag has won numerous awards and is a stalwart among ultralight backpackers. With a weight starting at  526 g (1 lb 2.5 oz), I can see why!  

Water Purification

I love the Steripen. It’s light, portable and only takes minutes to purify a liter of water in a Nalgene. Press the button, place the pen in your bottle, and stir for a couple minutes. It’s like magic! Make sure to bring a few purification tablets as a backup should you run into any technical problems/dead battery with your Steripen.

Swiss Army Knife

Fixing gear, cutting food, a swiss army knife is your go to everything too for backpacking.

Stove & Fuel

Lightweight, convenient, and reliable, the MSR pocket rocket has been my go to backpacking stove for years.

Lighter & Matches

A bring a small baby Bic lighter (in a mini-ziplock to keep it dry) & a few matches as a failsafe.

Cookset

I love the GSI Halulite Microdualist II, Two-person cookset. It’s lightweight and I can fit my MSR pocket rocket and a fuel canister inside. If you don’t already have a stove, consider the MSR PocketRocket Stove Kit for an all-inclusive solution.

Water Bottle

Nalgenes are always a backcountry favorite. If you’re cutting weight or looking for a way to save a buck, a simple smart water is the go-to for ultralight backpackers. I’ve recently moved to a hydration reservoir as it allows me to stay hydrated continuously without stopping to grab and open a bottle.

Extra Water storage

Extra water storage capacity makes cooking that much easier and camp life more enjoyable so make sure to invest in something like the MSR DromLite Bag V2. It’s also a must for a trip without reliable water sources like the Howe Sound Crest Trail (later in the year) where hauling more water may be essential.

First Aid Kit

From blisters, to scrapes, and cuts. A first aid kit is an essential item to have.  The pre-built kits from Adventure Medical Kits have served me well on many adventurers. At the end of your trip write down any items you used and replace them so they’re ready for your next adventure.

Trowel, Toilet Paper, & Hand Sanitizer

The HSCT does not have any established outhouses, so you’ll  need  a trowel to dig a cathole when nature calls.  Follow minimum impact camping principals and go at least 200m away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.).  Pack your TP out, I know it’s gross, but just do it. 

Don’t forget a  small bottle (1 oz) of hand sanitizer.

Hiking Poles

I thought poles where only used by retirees trekking the Swiss Alps, then I completed the Howe Sound Crest Trail and my knees screamed at me for the next week. My overweight pack and lack of poles were to blame. Poles are great for reducing the strain of long grueling descents and providing extra stability on exposed sections. They let you hike faster and further with less pain and strain! Invest in a pair and you’ll never go back. Poles vary widely in price and style with weight/material having the largest influence on price.  Even an inexpensive pair will be helpful! I’ve had great luck with these Leki’s, but Black Diamond poles are also great. 

Headlamp

The Spot 500-R is the way to go with 9 modes including the night vision saving red light!  Red light mode takes a minute to get used to, but once you do it’s a total game changer trust me! The stars never looked so good!  The Spot 500-R is rechargable, but with a batter life of over 19 hrs on medium and 7hrs on high it should get you through the trip!

Bear Spray

When traveling in bear country, Bear Spray is a must. Make sure to remove the packaging and check the expiration date before heading out.

Bear Canister or Ursack * Don't Forget

Keeping your food safe from bears is an essential part of keeping you safe and being a responsible backpacker. The Howe Sound Crest Trail doesn’t offer any food storage so bring a bear canister to keep your food safe. They’re bulky, they’re annoying to pack, but they work well as stools and are far more convenient and effective than hanging your food. For several people go with the BV500 for solo adventures the BV450 works great.  To save weight Ursacks are also a great option, but they need to be tied to a tree and don’t prevent your food from being crushed and smashed by a hungry bear.

Don”t overlook safe food storage, as if a bear gets into your food it will need to be destroyed.  End of story. 

GPS, Compass & Map

Download the GAIA app for maps and gps. I always bring a traditional compass and topographic map as well in the case of technical problems or dead batteries.

Luxury Items to Pack

These items are extreme luxuries, but may be worth it depending on your weight priorities and the distance you plan to cover. I’d only  consider these items on a low distance or base camp style hike given their added weight and bulk. 

Backpacking Chair

After a long day on the trail there’s nothing better than finding a nice comfortable spot to rest your weary glutes. Check out the Big Agnes Mica Basin Camp Chair or the Helinox Chair One.  Both weigh around 1kg, and are light enough to justify bringing on slower/easier backpacking trips where weight isn’t as big of consideration or for trips where you’re taking day trips from an established base camp.

Hammock at the North Rim Campground at the Grand Canyon
Double Nest Hammock at the North Rim Campground in Grand Canyon National Park

Hammock

If you’ve never strung up a hammock between two trees deep in the backcountry you’re missing out! Nothing beats getting horizontal with some great reading material in the pre-dinner hours or taking in an amazing sunset from your own outdoor couch.  The ENO Double Nest has room for two and at ½ kg  it’s hardly even a splurge to pack.  P.S don’t forget the straps to hang it.

Clothing & Accessories to Pack

Shell Jacket

An essential piece for wind, rain, and snow. The Arc’teryx Beta shell is the best all around shell jacket. This shell performs in all adverse conditions and is the perfect outer layer for rainy days, or cool nights. Arc’teryx gear is expensive, but impeccably designed. I was skeptical for years, until I purchased a few pieces of their trail running gear and got hooked. If you’re looking for the best reviewed hiking shell out there, this is the one. 

For another excellent option that is more economical,  check out the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L

Puff Jacket

I’ve had the Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody for years and it works great on it’s own or underneath a shell for extra warmth. It’s a perfect multi-functional item for everyday, backpacking, and pretty much anything where you might need a bit of warmth. I’m still looking for an activity it doesn’t work for. 

Rainpants

You leave camp on sunny day breaking sweat over a pass, only to have storm clouds roll in an hour later and dump sleet on you. Rainpants are lifesaver for rapidly changing mountain weather!  Many have the functionality for quickly taking them on and off without removing your shoes/boots allowing you to stay comfortable even if you get caught in a sudden downpour.  I’ve been happy with the Black Diamond StormLine Rain PantsThe Patagonia Torrentshell pants are also a great option. 

Sun hoodie

When I went backpacking in the Grand Canyon a few years back, I was shocked to see throngs of Arizona Trail thru-hikers wearing hoodies in the  40 C heat. Turns out they weren’t just lost tech bros in the Grand Canyon, they were really onto something! A sun hoodie has been one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking kit. They keep you burn free, are surprisingly cool, and let you get away with leaving the bottle of sunscreen at home (or bringing way less). The Sahara Sun Hoodie from REI is one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking wardrobe and you can’t beat the price. 

Zip Off / Convertible Hiking Pants

I never thought I’d see the day I embraced the zip-off pant. But hey, they’re really the best of both worlds for rapidly changing mountain environments and keeping warm in the evening when the temperature drops. Check out the Quandary Pant for a great option.

A pair of shorts

In addition to hiking pants, it’s nice to have a pair of shorts to change into after a long day on the trail or as a backup option. Trail running shorts are light and comfortable. 

Base layer top

In addition to a sun hoodie, I also bring one base layer top to change into at camp or have as an alternate. The Capilene Cool trail  t-shirts work great for me on long hikes and trail runs, but pretty much any athletic quick-dry top will work fine. 

Base Layer Bottom

A merino wool or synthetic bottom baselayer is perfect for warming up at night or during chilly mornings.

Underwear

I’ve had the best luck with Patagonia underwear for hiking, trail running, mountain biking and skiing and found them to be more durable than the more expensive ones from lululemon. I usually bring a 2-3 pair depending on trip length. 

3 Pairs of Hiking Socks

Darn Tough Vermont makes the best hiking socks hands down. They’re guaranteed for life/replaced free of charge and they don’t stink. Really! I typically bring 3 pair. 1 pair for hiking, 1 pair to change into at camp, and a reserve to throw into the rotation as needed. 

Gloves

I typically bring a thin weatherproof pair of trail running gloves, like these

Sun Hat & Winter Hat/Toque

A cap or Tilley hat keeps your face protected from the intense mountain sun. A toque is great for warming up during chilly mornings or evenings. 

Sunglasses

Protect your eyes, don’t forget to bring your Sunglasses!

Trail Runners or Boots - Are Trail Runners or Hiking Boots Better for the HSCT?​

The answer here is it depends! If you have your backpack weight down to less than 20-25lbs and have a decent amount of backpacking experience, trail runners are the way to go during the summer months. If you’re going at a time when snowfall and colder weather are a possibility go with boots. Boots are also a better choice if you have a heavier pack and are newer to backpacking as they provide more stability and sturdiness. You also feel rough sections of the trail substantially less on the base of your feet!  

For cold weather or if I need to carry more weight I’ll use my Scarpa Kailash Hiking Boots.  During the summer months and with a light load I’d wear my La Sportiva Bushido II.

Camp Shoes

Crocs are back! Well for backpacking camp shoes they never left… They’re lightweight and ugly as ever. Many backpackers find them to be the perfect camp shoe for resting sore feat after a long day in boots/shoes.

Personally, I still hate them. I have an old pair of Tom’s which I occasionally bring. They are light and less bulky than Crocs. If going with a trail runner, I’ll often ditch the camp shoe altogether and just loosen my laces. Your call!  

Microspikes

Kahtoola Microspikes slip effortlessly over your boots and make walking on snow and ice a breeze. These are absolutely essential for early season travel.

Low Gaiters

Low gaiters are perfect for keeping rocks, sand, and snow out of your trail runners/boots and preventing blisters.

Toothbrush & Toothpaste

I recently started packing these toothpaste tabs in a tiny plastic bag/ziplock to save more space.

Duct Tape (For Repairs and Blisters)

Food

Everyone has different takes and caloric requirements, so I’m not going to tell you exactly what to bring. I generally avoid the just add water meals you find at REI or MEC.  They’re overpriced and often don’t rehydrate as you’d like. Check out these incredible soups and chilis they taste better, are made with better ingredients, and are less expensive. As another option,  I head to the grocery store and search for things like lentil rice, ramen, or plant-based mac & cheese. They’re basically just add/boil quickly meals and taste like real food. Always rebag/repack this type of food as there is no reason to carry unnecessary packaging on the trail.

Final thoughts on hiking the Howe Sound Crest Trail

The Howe Sound Crest Trail offers an incredible backcountry experience to properly prepared adventurers. If you have questions drop me a note in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help you out! Happy hiking friend! 

More adventures you might enjoy

View along the Rockwall Trail towards Floe Lake.

Rockwall Trail | The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the Rockwall

The Rockwall Trail is one of the Canadian Rockies’ premier backpacking trips. For 55km you’ll be treated to a seemingly unending supply of sublime Rocky Mountain scenery. Here’s how to make it happen with must-read tips for getting a permit and beating the crowds.

What to do in Mondulkiri, Cambodia

Trekking in Mondulkiri Province Cambodia

Welcome to Mondulkiri, Cambodia’s wild east.  Mondulkiri is the Cambodia’s most sparsely populated province and home to dusty red roads, raging waterfalls, elephant sanctuaries, and just the right dose of adventure. It’s also refreshingly cooler than the rest of Cambodia, dipping down to 20°C some nights – perfect for hammock stargazing from under a blanket.

If you have a bit of extra time in the country and are craving off-the-beaten-path adventure, Mondulkiri needs to be on your Cambodia Itinerary.

While its relaxing atmosphere and incredible nature may fool you, Mondulkiri is no stranger to struggle. The province was heavily impacted by the bombing of US forces during the Vietnam War and an estimated half of the population was killed during forced relocation under the Khmer Rouge regime. In the 1980s people returned to Mondulkiri, including the province’s Bunong population, the largest indigenous highland ethnic group in Cambodia.

While peaceful today, Mondulkiri’s incredible forest cover faces significant threat from illegal logging. You can help make a positive impact by supporting tourism in the area and encouraging the preservation of its beautiful scenery.

** Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you click one of the links and make a purchase we’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. Just like the travel backpacks we build, we’re very particular about travel products and we only recommend products, services, or accommodation we trust and use ourselves.

Waterfall in Mondulkiri

Things to do in Mondulkiri

Bousra Waterfall in Mondulkiri Cambodia

Zipline or picnic at Bousra Waterfall

Bousra is one of (if not the) most impressive of Cambodia’s waterfalls. It’s located under 50km outside of the province’s main town, Sen Monorom, which doesn’t stop the local crowds from gathering here. It’s a popular picnic spot for Cambodian families, and rightfully so. Have a lunch packed up in Sen Monorom town and take it along to Bousra to join them for your own picnic. Then leave your shoes behind and explore the pools beneath the upper waterfall. The spray from the waterfall is a great way to cool down on a hot day.

If you’re feeling extra adventurous, you can also go on a zipline adventure from Bousra. The Mayura Zipline is a bit more expensive by Cambodia standards, but the reviews are great, especially for the course’s safety standards. 

To get here, rent a motorbike in Sen Monorom ($7 for the day). Mind the construction in parts of the road along the way. 

Dak Dam in Mondulkiri

Motorbike the road to Dak Dam

The road from Sen Monorom to Dak Dam is easily the most beautiful road I’ve been on in Cambodia. Apparently it used to be even more beautiful, but deforestation has increasingly taken place here over the past years. It’s still a stunning motorbike ride on a thankfully well paved road. Take a detour off the highway onto the side roads to smell the pine trees or up a small hill called “Build Love” (or something equally cute and kitsch) to watch the sun set.

Whatever you do, DON'T FORGET this!

Unfortunately, when you’re riding motorbikes and hiking in the jungle,  medical emergencies can and do happen. You need to be prepared! A friend of mine was medevaced to Bangkok from Cambodia and spent several weeks in the hospital there to the tune of $750,000. Fortunately, she had travel insurance! 

If you don’t already have travel insurance, check out World Nomads* . Their coverage includes medical emergencies, luggage & gear and trip cancellation.  Hopefully, you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared!

*We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

Trek through the jungle to hidden waterfalls

Seeing Cambodia’s incredible jungle is best experienced by trekking. A number of companies offer an 18km day hike led by a local Bunong guide. The trail takes you past three incredible waterfalls, hidden in the jungle. You’ll likely spot some wildlife along the way. I saw monkeys, a giant viper, and even an elephant (from one of the sanctuaries). Your guide will cook up vegetables and some fish or meat at camp to eat. 

 

Forest in Mondulkiri

Visit the elephants ethically

There are a number of organizations in Mondulkiri that are working hard to protect elephants in the area and allow travellers to visit them in an ethical way. However, not all of these are created equal. Doing your own due diligence is important here. One traveller I met had been to one of the supposed sanctuaries and ended up sitting on an elephant there. Elephant Valley Project is arguably the most ethical choice in the area – allowing you to visit and watch the elephants, but not ride, touch, bathe or feed them, which can cause them undue stress. Ultimately, I had too much trouble deciding on the ethics of visiting any of the organizations, so I chose to only trek instead. This thorough article is a great starting place to do your homework on the organizations and make your own decision. 
Sea Forest lookout in Mondulkirir Cambodia

Visit the kitsch Sea Forest lookout

Like the road to Dak Dam, the Sea Forest isn’t as much of a forest as it used to be. That said, it still serves as a beautiful viewpoint over the surrounding area and offers some kitsch photo opportunities. With small pedestals that include a “stairway to heaven”, bird’s nest and butterfly wings, it’s a popular place for Cambodian crowds to snap photos. It’s certainly an experience to visit.

How to get to Mondulkiri

From Phnom Penh, it will take you 5.5 – 6 hours on a bumpy bus ride to get to Mondulkiri’s main town, Sen Monorom. Departure times are in the morning, afternoon or evening. You can book your ticket on the BookMeBus website.

Where to stay in Mondulkiri

The town’s guesthouses. Tree Lodge and Nature Lodge are the two most popular options to stay at, offering rustic but scenic accommodation in the countryside.

Where to eat in Mondulkiri

For coffee and breakfast/lunch head over to Hefalump or Bamboo Cafes in town. Both have relaxed gardens to eat in and fairly cheap eats. For dinner, Pizza Mondulkiri and Banong Kitchen are great options with lovely staff. 

Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you click one of the links and make a purchase we’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. Just like the travel backpacks we build, we’re very particular . So any products or services we suggest, we test and use ourselves before making any recommendations or endorsements. 

Banana Backpacks Inc. is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com

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Man sits on waterfall near Kampot, Cambodia

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Banff Hiking Trails | 6 Must-Do Hikes in Banff

Rae Glacier Near Banff

Banff has become even more of a buzzword in the travel community over the past two years. With incredible mountain vistas and beautiful hiking trails near Banff townsite, this national park located in the Canadian Rockies continues to grow in popularity. This heightened fame was sparked when Canada was named Lonely Planet’s top country to visit in 2017. With free national park passes handed out to celebrate Canada’s 150th birthday last year, I have never seen Banff buzzing as much as it did in 2017. And even though the free passes are now gone, the tourists are certainly not.

There are so many places to see in the Banff area that it can be hard to know which spots you should focus on during your trip. It can be even more challenging to know which of the many Banff hiking trails you should choose when you have limited time.

Being from nearby Calgary, I’ve been packing up my own Khmer Explorer backpack to visit the Banff area a lot this summer. These mountain adventures made me realize I should really share some insight into exploring my own backyard! Over the years I’ve had the privilege of experiencing a number of the hikes in this area, so I’m excited to share my favourite hiking trails with you in this post.

While this list expands outside of Banff National Park into the neighbouring Yoho, Kootenay, and Kananaskis regions, these are all easy to access from Banff townsite. I’ve left two famous (and beautiful) Banff hiking trails off of here, Johnston Canyon and Lake Agnus Teahouse only because of the extreme crowds that visit them. With so many other (slightly) less trafficked hikes to explore near Banff, I hope you’ll forgive me that exclusion! So grab the 10 essentials and great hiking backpack (like our customizable Kiri pack with the watering can kit)

banff hiking trails the iceline trail
Iceline Trail

Iceline Trail

Location: Yoho National Park
Driving time from Banff to trailhead: 1 hour 15 minutes
Hiking distance: 13-20+ km return (out and back vs. loop variations)
Hiking time: 5-12 hours

The diversity of scenery on the beautiful Iceline Trail is what makes this Yoho National Park hike my all-time favourite trail. Starting at the magnificent Takakkaw Falls, the path first tests you with steep switchbacks. At this point you might be cursing me for suggesting you go on this “scenic” trail, but once you’re past the switchbacks, you’ll be heavily rewarded with stunning views of the glacial iceline itself and the surrounding mountains. The path is barren as you make your way along the rocky alpine meadow, and while the views on this part of the trail are a highlight and many day hikers return the way they came, there’s more beauty to come if you have the time. The path descends down through rocky beds and wooded areas, past more waterfalls and lakes, and over wooden plank bridges. Those wishing to camp overnight have several backcountry campground options or you can stay at Stanley Mitchell Hut. It’s worth doing the full loop if you have the time. While Banff National Park usually gets all of the international fame, the Iceline Trail showcases neighbouring Yoho as serious competition.

Iceline Trail near Banff
Iceline Trail

Larch Valley

Location: Banff National Park
Driving time from Banff to trailhead: 1 hour
Hiking distance: 12 km return
Hiking time: 5-6 hours

This popular hike is famous for its larch trees that turn the valley a stunning field of gold around the last two weeks of September each year. During this time the trail can be quite a zoo, but it’s no wonder tourists flock here and it’s worth hiking whether it’s autumn or not. From the shoreline of enchanting Moraine Lake, the Larch Valley trail switchbacks steeply to access the valley itself. Once you reach the valley, it’s relatively flat as you wander through the larches, past reflective pools and surrounding mountain peaks. It’s possible to carry onwards on the scree slope trail to Sentinel Pass for even more impressive views of the region. Regardless of whether you choose to carry on, Larch Valley offers some of the most incredible views of the peaks surrounding Lake Louise that you can find in this area.

Larch Valley
Larch Valley

Rae Glacier

Location: Kananaskis Country
Driving time from Banff to trailhead: 1 hour 20 minutes
Hiking distance: 8 km return
Hiking time: 4 hours

Rae Glacier is one of those rare hikes that is unbelievably underrated and infrequently visited. To access the glacier you start on the popular trail towards Elbow Lake. Elbow Lake has a nice day use area and quite a scenic campsite on the lakeshore. To get to Rae Glacier, you carry on past the campsite until you reach a creek and have to follow an often faint trail that veers off to the right. As long as you can see the glacier in front of you, don’t worry, a clearer trail does appear again. It’s around 2.5 km with a significant elevation gain from the edge of the lake up to the glacier. Sadly, Rae has receded significantly so there isn’t much of a glacier left here to admire. Nevertheless make your way up to the snow, and then turn around to take in the beautiful view below you. I’ve been hard pressed to find a more jaw-dropping vista (and one often viewed in solitude!) around this area.

Rae Glacier Near Banff
Rae Glacier

Chester Lake

Location: Kananaskis Country
Driving time from Banff to trailhead: 1 hour 30 minutes
Hiking distance: 9.7 km return
Hiking time: 4 hours

Chester Lake is my favourite hike in Kananaskis Country. It’s an easy, short hike with incredible views and while it does get busy, it’s not crazy to park here like it can be to access the Lake Louise/Moraine Lake hikes during the summer. Less famous than Larch Valley, this is also a beautiful spot to see the larches change colour the last two weeks of September. The path initially has a steady uphill through the forest but then levels right out as it meanders through a large meadow to Chester Lake itself. After stopping for a snack by the lake, carry on through the forest to the large boulders known as “elephant rocks”. You can then hike up a steep little slope to get to the most beautiful views over the valley. This hike is most impressive during larch season, but it also makes for a nice snowshoe trail if you’re visiting in the winter!

Chester Lake
Chester Lake

Plain of Six Glaciers

Location: Banff National Park
Driving time from Banff to trailhead: 45 minutes
Hiking distance: 11 km return
Hiking time: 4-5 hours

This is probably the most well-known of the hikes on this list, and for good reason. With beautiful views, a teahouse waiting for you at the top, and not too gruelling of an uphill climb, the Plain of Six Glaciers trail is incredibly enticing as a hiker. Most people opt for the closer and shorter hike to Lake Agnes Teahouse, but it’s not nearly as stunning as the Plain of Six Glaciers. From the Lake Louise parking lot you simply follow the lakeside trail all the way behind the lake. The path has a very mild incline as you traverse through forest and over some scree. It then opens up with incredible views back towards Lake Louise. It can get a little bit icy in parts here even in the summer months, so do tread carefully on the slippery sections. After a couple of slightly steeper switchbacks you’ll then reach the adorable teahouse that was first built in 1924. It’s a nice spot to either snack outside on a packed lunch or dart into the teahouse for a hot cup of tea or bowl of soup (remember to bring cash as there is no electricity to process credit cards up here!).

Plain of Six Glaciers

Stanley Glacier

Location: Kootenay National Park
Driving time from Banff to trailhead: 35 minutes
Hiking distance: 8.4 km return
Hiking time: 3-4 hours

Located just off of Highway 1 on Highway 93, Stanley Glacier manages to avoid some of Banff’s intense traffic. This glacier is located in beautiful Kootenay National Park and makes for a perfect half-day hike in the area. After crossing the initial stream next to the parking lot, you’ll start the trail on some switchbacks leading through a forest. A lightning strike in 1968 charred this forest and as a result it’s now a beautiful place to witness forest regrowth and incredible wildflowers. After the initial switchbacks, it levels out and follows a creek to the boulder basin of the glacier. This is where the maintained trail ends, but there are plenty of little paths continuing onwards to explore and get a closer peek at the glacier. Like Rae Glacier, Stanley too has sadly receded significantly over the past years. It remains a beautiful hike and also an important reminder of the realities facing our environment.

Stanley Glacier

Responsible travel tip

Remember that you are in bear country. Make sure to pack out all of your garbage, bring bear spray, hike in groups if possible, and don’t stop your car and get out to look at the bears if you see them near the highway.

Have you been on any of these hikes? What did you think of them? And do you have any favourite Banff hiking trails not included on this list? Let me know in the comments below!