Grand Canyon Backpacking | Ultimate Rim to Rim to Rim Guide

North Kaibaba Trail on the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim

Backpacking the Grand Canyon inevitably ends up on every adventurer’s bucket list.  For a backpacker visiting the Grand Canyon for the first time, the 21 mile journey (33.8 km) from the South Rim to the North Rim is the ultimate trip to cut your teeth.   You’ll descend the South Kaibab Trail deep into the Grand Canyon to the Colorado River before climbing a punishing 5700ft (1700m) up the North Kaibab trail to the Grand Canyon’s quieter North Rim.

Perhaps, the only better way to backpack the Grand Canyon for the first time is to do it all over again in reverse  for an epic backpacking trip known as the rim to rim to rim (R2R2R2).  During the late spring, summer and fall when the North Rim is open and shuttles are available, this add-on makes limited sense.  However, when the North Rim shuts down backpacking the Grand Canyon this way is an incredible opportunity to find a level of solitude unimaginable at other times of the year.  If you’re thinking about this trip, dreaming of this trip, or have secured a permit, this epic guide to backpacking the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim was written just for you. So, let’s stop with the formalities and dive right into it! 

There’s tons of detail in this post, so here is a quick, clickable summary of what you’ll find here:

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Need to know for backpacking the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim

Days Required: 2 – 7 days
Difficulty: Moderate, but extreme heat and weather can increase difficulty dramatically. 
Distance: 44.5 miles (72 km)
Elevation Gain: 10, 141 ft (3,090 m)
Elevation Loss:  10, 541 ft (3,210 m)
Permit Required: Yes, competitive.
Navigation: Easy, trails are very well marked.
Water Sources: Frequent potable water sources available between May and December.  Large portions of the Bright Angel and North Kaibab trails have access to water for purification year during the rest of the year. South Kaibab trail has no water. 
Food Storage: Provided at designated campsites.
Best Campsite Walked Past or Stayed At: Cottonwood (below the rim), but read section on the ultimate hack for backpacking the rim to rim to rim for a special campsite tip.  

Deer on Bright Angel Trail in the Grand Canyon

Things you'll love about backpacking the rim to rim to rim

    • Remarkable geology and natural scenery that will leave you awestruck at every turn.
    • Incredible trail infrastructure.
    • Established trail with no navigation required. 
    • Readily available potable water via taps at numerous points (seasonal and not on the South Kaibab).
    • Numerous campsites allow for very manageable daily mileage and different itineraries.
    • Opportunity to camp on the seasonally isolated North Rim.

Things you won't love about backpacking the rim to rim to rim

    • The squirrels. Take your eye off your bag for a second and they are in it.
    • The heat can be the most challenging factor.
    • Competitive permit process that requires using a fax machine.
    • Navigating the throngs of day hikers at the beginning (and end).
    • Keeping a constant ear out for trail runners coming in hot. 
    • Busy campsites that are close together with limited privacy. 
    • Did I mention it can get deathly hot?

How many days does it take to backpack the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim?

A backpacking trip of the Grand Canyon’s rim to rim to rim is typically done in 4-7 days.

That said, you’re likely to encounter many ambitious trail runners and a few speed hikers pushing to complete the 44.5 mile (72 km) rim to rim to rim in one very, very long day.

Fortunately, backpacking allows the benefit of time to enjoy the splendor of the Grand Canyon, not to mention some of the best night skies you’ll see in your life. So, less mileage is often more enjoyment. We spent 6 nights on the trail and that was absolutely perfect.  I’m not sure I would’ve wanted to move much faster since we had daily high temperatures approaching 110 Fahrenheit (45 degrees Celsius) on several occasions.

For fit, ultralight backpackers this trip could be done in as little as 2 days, spending 1 night on the North Rim. That said, the heat in the Grand Canyon adds a whole new variable that can force schedule interruptions on even upon the most determined hikers.

How hard is it to backpack the Grand Canyon?

The rim to rim to rim backpacking trip in the Grand Canyon is a deceivingly challenging hike.

On one hand, the corridor trails that make up the R2R2R2 route (South Kaibab, North Kaibab, and Bright Angel) are impeccably maintained, require no navigation skills, campsites feature numerous amenities, and potable water is readily available during many times of the year. 

On the other hand, the Canyon coaxes you into a false sense of security with its upside down mountain topography. You start with the ease of descending and gravity on your side, you finish working against it. You’ll descend 4780 ft (1450 m) from the top of the south rim only to climb 5700ft (1700m) up to the North Rim, before doing it all over again in reverse.

The biggest challenge you may face is the elements. The intense sun and searing heat, lack of shade (especially on the South Kaibab), and lack of water and requirement to haul extra (exacerbated during non-peak season when many taps are shut off) are variables unique to those unfamiliar with desert hiking. The heat can be so intense that you’ll find yourself kneeling with gratitude at the smallest amount of shade and setting your alarm earlier each day in a futile attempt to beat the worst of it. 

During the winter, fall and spring, cold weather is also a major part of the equation. Snow, ice and below freezing temperatures are commonplace higher on the South Rim and the North Rim. 

Ultimately,  backpacking the rim to rim to rim can be tough, but with proper planning and respect for the environmental conditions, most backpackers encounter no issues. 

North Kaibab Trail

How do you get a permit to backpack the Grand Canyon?

To backpack in the Grand Canyon you need a permit which is obtained through an antiquated process that involves either sending a fax, mailing the permit request or dropping it off at the North or South rim information center. 

Permit requests are accepted during the 10 day period, 4 months before the month of your desired start date.  If you wish to hike in November, you would submit your completed permit application anytime between June 20 and July 1. The order permits are received doesn’t matter, this period is simply the window in which applications are accepted. Once the deadline passes you’ll receive a response within a couple of weeks.

To complete the application one member of your group will need to complete the permit request form with your group size and desired itinerary (nightly camp location). Additional details and complete instructions on backcountry permits can be found here

To maximize your chances of obtaining a permit follow this common sense logic:

    • Maximize your flexibility by creating a first and second choice and selecting as many of the options in the additional choices section of the application as you can. That means:
      • Selecting a big window for alternative start dates or the entire month, if possible.
      • Selecting a lower minimum number of nights (know your limits and conditioning though).
      • Selecting a lower minimum group size. There’s always one friend you kinda want to drop anyways…

With this sage wisdom you’ll hopefully score a permit and ideally write an even better blog post than this after your epic backpack through the Grand Canyon, thereby saving future readers the misery you’re presently enduring in reading this one…

 

Do you need a park entrance pass if you have a backcountry permit for the Grand Canyon?

Yes, you require a park entrance pass even if you have a permit for backpacking the Grand Canyon. The lines to pay entrance fees at the gate can be long, so make sure to purchase your entrance pass in advance to save time. 

America the Beautiful Annual Pass if the best bet if you plan on visiting multiple parks or multiple times within the year of purchasing it. The Grand Canyon charges $35 per vehicle for a 7 day pass, so it doesn’t take many visits to National Parks or federal public lands to pay back the $80 dollar cost of the America the Beautiful Annual Pass

You can also pre-purchase your 7-day entrance fee at recreation.gov if this is the only time you’ll be visiting a National Park this year.

Which direction should you hike?

The rim to rim to rim trail is started from the South Rim, taking either Bright Angel Trail or the South Kaibab trail down before ascending the North Kaibab to the North Rim and then doubling back. The primary reason for this is the seasonal closure of the North Rim that typically begins on the 1st of December until May 15. 

Should you hike the Grand Canyon rim to rim or rim (R2R2R) to rim to rim (R2R)?

When the North Rim is closed to vehicles you’ll only have the option to hike the rim to rim to rim if you wish to complete this hike in its entirety. This provides a couple of advantages. You can camp on deserted North Rim (more on that below) and you will run into fewer and fewer people the further you get from the South Rim. Purely from a solitude perspective, the R2R2R takes the cake while the North Rim is closed to vehicle access.  It will take double the time thought, so this itinerary might not be feasible for everyone. 

During the later spring, summer and fall months when the North Rim is open, I’d gravitate towards doing the R2R as you get no real benefit from the extra days and mileage at this time of year aside from getting to look at the views in reverse, spending more time in the grand canyon, and avoiding a 4-hour shuttle ride.

View from the Bright Angel Trail

Which trails do you hike for the rim to rim to rim?

The most popular and recommended way to backpack (or hike) the R2R2R is to begin your hike by descending the South Kaibab trailhead. After climbing the North Kaibab and returning to Phantom Ranch you’ll be faced with a choice of climbing the South Kaibab or hiking up the Bright Angel Trail. Despite being 2 miles longer, Bright Angel is the wiser choice, especially if there is any kind of heat whatsoever. The South Kaibab is relentlessly exposed with virtually no shade and no opportunity for water. Descending it at the heat of the day on an unexpectedly hot day in April left us completely bagged, I couldn’t have imagined hiking up in these conditions. The smart choice here is to ascend Bright Angel as it provides numerous opportunities for water and shade making the already challenging experience of climbing out of the Grand Canyon significantly more enjoyable. 

When is the best time to hike the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim?

If you can secure a permit, April is the ideal month to hike the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim. The heat typically is not yet in full force (It did get to over 110, so extreme heat is still possible), the likelihood of winter conditions (ice, snow) at the higher elevations is reduced, the days are long, and the North Rim is still closed. Hiking the R2R2R while the North Rim is closed affords a couple key advantages. First, it reduces some of the day hiker traffic descending from the North Rim (although according to the park service only around 10% of visitors to the Grand Canyon visit the North Rim) and most importantly it provides an unprecedented way to obtain some solitude on what is a very busy trail by spending a night camping on the North Rim.

The ultimate rim to rim to rim backpacking hack : Book a night on the North Rim and beat the crowds

I was lucky enough to speak to an informative ranger before requesting our permit who was kind enough to advise me that despite the North Rim being closed, the campground remains open to backcountry travelers venturing from the Grand Canyon’s south side. As long as you’re equipped with warm enough gear for the high elevation of the North Rim, (the daily average low is 32F (0C) in April), this can be an incredible experience. With luck, you’ll have an empty campsite and the opportunity to explore the viewpoints of the North Rim in near isolation. 

Can you have campfires inside the Grand Canyon?

No, ​​fires are prohibited throughout the backcountry in Grand Canyon National Park. 

View from the South Kaibab Trailhead

How do you get to the South Kaibab Trailhead?

After parking your vehicle at the Backcountry Information Lot you’ll hop on the free Hikers’ Express shuttle bus to the South Kaibab trailhead. The hours change depending on the season, but they typically leave as early as possible to ensure hikers beat the heat. Check this page on the Grand Canyon’s site to determine the times the bus departs during your trip dates.

How do you get to the Bright Angel Trailhead?

The Bright Angel Trailhead is only a ¼ mile from the Backcountry Information Lot making a return to your vehicle seamless on completion of your trip. 

Food storage while backpacking the Grand Canyon

Metal food storage containers are provided at each campsite along the corridor trails of the Grand Canyon. If you’re planning an itinerary that includes campsites off the main corridor trails bring something to protect your food, like a ratsack

Squirrels in the Grand Canyon

Along the corridor trails one of the largest annoyances and potential dangers you’re likely to face is the Grand Canyon famous rock squirrels. It’s rumored that they hold the title for most dangerous animal in the Grand Canyon and this becomes immediately obvious after witnessing the behavior of the first squirrel you see. Extra caution is required! Do not leave your bag or clothing unattended and ensure all food is placed inside the metal food storage boxes. Leave your pack open and hanging from the metal bars at each campsite.  Apparently, this allows them to climb inside and take a look around before realizing there is nothing good to eat and thereby preventing them from chewing though your pack to investigate. Be extra aware of the squirrels nearest to the South Rim.  The high volume of day hiker traffic here seems to have further emboldened this cohort, likely due to many people feeding them. If you sit down and pull out a snack, you may look over to realize there is a squirrel uncomfortably close. You’ve been warned. 

How do I have dinner at Phantom Ranch?

In the middle of a long hard day of backpacking it’s only natural to have visions of your favorite dinner pop in and out of your head. Maybe it’s your favorite pizza, steak frites, or marinated tofu delight. Whatever your fancy, you’re usually constrained to dining on some form of dinner that involves adding boiling water to something dry. One benefit that comes with the sometimes diluted wilderness experience around Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch is your ability to treat your hiking buddy (or have them treat you) to a sit down meal at the Phantom Ranch Canteen. You’ll have your choice of steak, stew or vegetarian option at the heart of the Grand Canyon. A great meal and backpack weight savings all at once! Like any good restaurant, reservations are required, so make a booking for dinner well in advance if this is something that tickles your fancy. 

View approaching the top of Bright Angel Trail

Where to stay before hiking or backpacking the Grand Canyon

To ensure an early start and guarantee you catch the Hikers’ Express Shuttle Bus from the Backcountry Information Center it’s most convenient to spend the night before your hike close to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. The best option is to stay inside the park itself which allows for exploration of the rim area and historic district during the day before your hike. These options book up incredibly fast, so make your booking as soon as you’ve secured your permit. 

Best accommodation options inside Grand Canyon National Park

Camp at Mather Campground

The most economical option is to camp at one of the 327 campsites at Mather Campground in Grand Canyon Village. The campsites include all the amenities you’d expect plus flush toilets and potable water throughout the campground. If you’re tenting, Pine Loop is a tent-only area where generators are prohibited. Book a reservation on recreation.gov well in advance to secure a spot. 

Stay at one of the Grand Canyon’s historic lodges

Sometimes nothing beats a comfortable bed before (and after) multiple nights in the tent. Fortunately, the Grand Canyon offers numerous historic lodges to get a good night or two of sleep before heading out on your rim to rim to rim adventure. The majority of these are within easy walking distance of the Canyon Rim. 

El Tovar Hotel is considered to be the crown jewel of Historic National Park Lodges. Constructed in 1905 of local limestone and Oregon Pine, this historical hotel is located directly on the rim of the Grand Canyon. 

Bright Angel Lodge and Cabins – Another historic lodging option at the rim of the Grand Canyon. This lodge was originally constructed as a less expensive option to El Tovar. This National Historic Landmark features 90 rooms ranging from cozy lodge rooms (some with shared, some with private bathrooms) and several historic cabins. For one of a kind accommodation consider a stay at the historic Buckey O’Neill Cabin or Red Horse Cabin. You can find more information on these historic cabins and details on how to book them  here.

Kachina Lodge, Thunderbird Lodge, Yavapai Lodge and Maswik Lodge – These lodging options in Grand Canyon Village are slightly more contemporary than the first 2, but do offer more conventional hotel amenities still within easy access of the Canyon Rim. 

Hotels outside Grand Canyon National Park

If the options in the park are booked up there are several notable options just outside of the park gates in the small village of ​​Tusayan. Only 7 miles (11 km) south of the south rim is a suitable backup option that leaves a very manageable drive for the morning of your departure.The Grand Hotel at the Grand Canyon is most sought after choice here with several other decent chain hotel options available.

Trail sections and descriptions

The three trails that make up the rim to rim to rim of the Grand Canyon are referred to as the Corridor trails. These include the South Kaibab Trail, North Kaibab Trail, and Bright Angel Trail. The most common route for hiking rim to rim to rim is to descend the South Kaibab Trail to the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch. From there you’ll climb the North Kaibab trail to the North Rim before doubling back to Phantom Ranch and taking Bright Angel Trail back to the South Rim. The trail sections are broken down with descriptions in this order, 

Mule train coming up the South Kaibab Trail
If you encounter a mule train, move to the inside of the trail and listen for the mule driver's instructions

South Kaibab Trailhead to Bright Angel Campground

7 miles (11.3 KM)

4780 ft (1450 M) elevation loss

After disembarking from the Hikers’ Express Shuttle bus, take a moment to top up your water supplies (this tap is seasonal and may not be turned on until early May). This is your last chance to do so prior to reaching Phantom Ranch and you have 7 miles of very exposed hiking to get through with almost no shade.  After approaching the Canyon rim and dropping, in it doesn’t take long before you come across a series of switchbacks before traversing the slope in a straight shot until coming up on the sublime vista at the aptly named Ooh Ahh Point. You’re already 800ft  (250m) of descending in with plenty to go!

Hiker looks at the view from Ooh Ahh Point in the Grand Canyon

After Ooh’ing and Ahh’ing for as long as you feel is required, continue along the trail as it descends the ridgeline to Cedar Ridge where toilets (no water) are available to anyone feeling moved by the views… The South Kaibab continues its descent along the ridgeline before skirting around the west side of O’Neill Butte and descending to Skeleton Point. Depending on the season, you’ll likely be ready to de-layer by this point as you notice the substantial increase in temperature as you descend towards the canyon floor. After Skelton Point the trail drops down dramatically via a series of switchbacks which descend 650ft (200 m) of elevation in just over half a mile (1 km) towards the Tonto plateau.  By this section, hiker traffic thins substantially as all but the boldest, fittest or most naive day hikers have turned back.  After completing the switchbacks and continuing your descent at a rapid, but slightly more gradual pace you’ll reach the Tonto Plateau and a small rest stop at the Tipoff. The Tipoff has a shaded pavilion and toilers (no water) and is a terrific spot to have a snack, rehydrate, and embrace the shade before tackling the final leg of the South Kaibab. 

View looking down to the Colorado River on the South Kaibab Trail

The section following Tipoff can feel like a race against time, especially for those hiking in late spring, summer or during an unseasonably hot day.  In 1.5 miles (2.5 KM) from the Tipoff to the fork with River Trail you rapidly descends nearly 1280ft (390 m). Despite the rapid descent, you’ll do so without the major switchbacks you encountered earlier and almost no shade. We hiked during an unseasonably hot day in April where the temperature got to well over100 and this section felt like the most challenging of our entire hike.   The Park Service advises that everyone start hiking well before dawn or in the late afternoon during May to September and advises against being on the trail between 10 am – 3 pm to avoid medical risk and potential need for rescue.  So start early!   After reaching the fork with River trail continue to the right. head through the tunnel and across the Black bridge. 

Black Bridge Over the Colorado River from Boat Beach in the Grand Canyon

After crossing black bridge you’ll pass by Boat Beach ( a nice spot to check out on the Colorado River) before walking for another ½ mile to reach Bright Angel Campground, shade, and most importantly water.  

North Kaibab Trail

Bright Angel Campground to North Kaibab Trailhead or North Rim Campground

14 miles (22.5 KM)

5761 FT (1756 m) Elevation Gain

After leaving Bright Angel Campground and passing through Phantom Ranch the trail meanders alongside Bright Angel creek as the Grand Canyon enters one of its narrowest sections, the Inner Gorge or “the Box”. The hiking here is quite flat and easy, but with dark rock walls and low elevation this section can feel like the parking lot at a Phoenix Target in August, so once again, make sure to start early. 

the box area of the grand canyon

After leaving the Box, the trail remains a gradual incline for the entire 7.2 mi (11.6 km) stretch from Bright Angel to Cottonwood Campground. After negotiating a small hill around 5.5 miles from Bright Angel, you’ll have the option of making a wonderful side trip to the cool oasis of Ribbon Falls. 

This trip is well worth it and can also easily be made as a quick afternoon trip directly from Cottonwood campground, if you’re overnighting there. Going to Cottonwood first adds  a 1.6 miles (2.6 km) each way, but gets off the trail before the heat of the day and helps you secure a better campsite at Cottonwood by getting there early. 

To get to Ribbon Falls follow the path until you hit Bright Angel Creek before crossing and following the fork to the left to lower ribbon falls. If you have the energy, a longer trail (0.9 miles or 1.4 km)  forks right and climbs 330ft (100m) of elevation to the less visited Upper Ribbon Falls,   Note that at time of hiking the bridge to access to this trail was removed and an easy ford of Bright Angel Creek was required to access the trail to both upper and/or lower Ribbon Falls. 

Hiker rests by Ribbon Falls an Oasis in the Grand Canyon
taking in Ribbon Falls

After reaching Cottonwood campsite or overnighting there, you’ll hike for 1.4 miles (2.3KM) gaining about 390 ft (120 m) alongside Bright Angel Creek before crossing a final bridge to reach the Manzanita Rest Area.  Seasonal water taps are available at the Manzanita Rest area.  During the winter and spring months, you’ll a have a final opportunity to fill and treat water by taking the short, ¼ mile side trip to Roaring Springs which lies ⅔ mile (1.1 KM)  up from Manzanita Rest Area. Regardless of your water needs, the short side trip to Roaring springs is worthwhile as it brings you closer to the incredible stream of water that gushes out from the cliff above before making its way down to Bright Angel Creek below. Once you’re filled up and ready to get started, backtrack along Roaring Springs Trail back to the North Kaibab and take a breath. The big ascent is about to get started. 

For the next 1.7 miles (2.8 KM) after the junction with Roaring Springs the trail picks up nearly  1000ft (300 m) of elevation before reaching Redwall bridge. During this section you’ll pass along beautiful sections of trail with sheer cliff faces dropping off to the right hand side. For anyone afraid of heights, this section is the likeliest to potentially test your nerves. Fortunately, the wide trail provides ample room to hug the cliff wall so the exposure never feels truly frightening.  This section of the North Kaibab trail is stunning example of a time when trail construction involved blasting away giant sections of rock to accommodate a hiking trail.

Hiker takes in a view on the North Kaibab Trail

After descending slightly to Redwall Bridge you’ll begin another big uphill slog gaining close to 850ft (260 m) in 0.9 miles (1.4 KM) before reaching Supai Tunnel. Supai Tunnel offers a restroom and a seasonal water tap. At an elevation of 6800 ft (2073 m) you’ll begin to notice a change in both vegetation and temperature with large coniferous trees becoming more prevalent.

Redwall Bridge on the North Kaibab Trail
Supai Tunnel on the North Kaibab Trail

From the Supai tunnel the North Kaibab trail pushes on, snaking its way up another another 850ft (250m) of elevation with a dozen switchbacks over the next mile (1.6km) to the Coconino Overlook. Take a moment to savor the view here, as this is the last panoramic view you’ll get of the Canyon on the North Kaibab Trail. 

After enjoying the view, take a deep breath and crush out the final 0.6 mile (1 km) to the top of the North Kaibab Trailhead. Hopefully, you took a moment to enjoy the view from the Coconino Overlook, as the terminus of the North Kaibab is somewhat anticlimactic with no view to speak of. If time permits, consider the 2 mile (3.2 KM) easy trek to Bright Angel Point for a spectacular view back across the Grand Canyon. During the quiet months that North Rim is closed to vehicle traffic this trip is particularly worthwhile. If you’re fortunate enough to be camping on the North Rim, head west for just under a mile (1.4 KM) of easy walking to the BIker/Hiker section of the North Rim Campground on the far west side adjacent to the rim. After getting your site set up, ditch your big pack and take the 1.6 mile (2.6 KM) trail along the rim’s perimeter to Bright Angel Point. 

Hiker takes in the view from the Coconino Overlook
View from the Coconino Overlook

Return to Bright Angel Campground

14 miles (22.5 KM)​

5761 FT (1756 m) Elevation Loss

Double back the way that you came on the North Kaibab Trail following the same route until you reach Bright Angel Campground. Hopefully, you were able to enjoy a night on the North Rim. 

View down Bright Angel Trail to Indian Garden

Bright Angel Campground to Bright Angel Trailhead

9.5 miles (15.3 km)

4380 ft (1337 m) Elevation Gain

From Bright Angel Campground you’ll have the option to hike out on the South Kaibab Trail or take the recommended route out on Bright Angel Trail (see earlier section for the reasons why). From Bright Angel Campground  take the Silver Bridge to the west across the Colorado River. After crossing the river you’ll hike along sand dunes alongside the Colorado River for around 1.2 miles (1.9 km) until the trail begins its ascent back to the South Rim at the Pipe Creek drainage. At this point you’ll find the River Resthouse, a toilet and a convenient spot to fill up and treat water if you happened to forget to do so before leaving Bright Angel. 

You’ll begin your ascent up the Pipe Creek Drainage after departing the River Resthouse . For the first mile (1.6KM) the trail follows alongside Pipe Creek and picks up about 350ft of elevation (100m). After crossing the creek a final time, you’ll encounter a series of switchbacks called the Devil’ Corkscrew which rapidly gains another 500ft (150 M) of elevation. This section is likely to be one of the most unshaded parts you’ll encounter on Bright Angel Trail, so an early start (or late in the day) is recommended to ensure safe passage here. 

the Devils Corkscrew on Bright Angel Trail

The trail links up with Garden creek about a mile after starting the switchbacks of  Devil’s Corkscrew. From here, it’s a gradually elevated mile (1.6 KM) along the creek gully to Havasupai Gardens Campground.  Just before reaching Havasupai Gardens Campground the trail forks with an option to hike out to Plateau point or gain access to the westbound side of the Tonto Trail. The trip to see the view from Plateau Point (1.4 miles or 2.3 km one-way) is a worthwhile side trip if you have the time. 

After staying the night at Havasupai Gardens or stopping to refill and refuel, it’s time to buckle up for the final push back to the South Rim. Following the Garden Creek drainage the trail gains around 500ft (150 m) in the first mile before rapidly gaining another 330ft (100m) in a series of switchbacks to reach 3 Mile Resthouse.  Fortunately, the rest stop provides ample opportunity to catch your breath before the next big push. By this point of your hike, you’ll notice an increase in the trail traffic as you start to encounter a higher frequency of day hikers coming down from the South Rim. 

Morning light from Havasupai Gardens Campground

When you’re feeling re-energized and ready for more elevation push towards the 1.5 Mile Resthouse 1.5 Miles (2.4 KM) up the trail. Nearly a dozen switchbacks and nearly 1000 ft of elevation gain (300 m) separate you from the final rest stop on your rim to rim to rim journey. As you continue upward, take a look back and see where you’ve come from looking for Havasupai Gardens way down below. After the final rest stop of your adventure summon your legs for the final set of switchbacks that lead you up the last 1.5 miles and 1100 ft (340m) of elevation to the Bright Angel Trailhead.  

 

Congratulations, you’ve just completed the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim.

Final part of Bright Angel Trail before the SOuth Rim

Campsites in the Grand Canyon on the rim to rim

Along the corridor trails you’re limited to camping in the established campsites which serve as a sufficient place to bunk down with some incredible dark sky views over the canyon walls. The night skies and sublime mesas and canyon walls that adorn every section of the Grand Canyon more than make up for the somewhat lackluster campsites themselves. Many of the sites are close together, with limited privacy. The vast majority of backpackers are respectful of lights out times and quiet time, but bring ear plugs for the one night you inevitably come across a snorer or someone that fails to observe the rules.

Bright Angel Campground

Located near historic Phantom Ranch and near the confluence of Bright Angel Creek and the Colorado River, this is the busiest campground along the Corridor trails. It is also my least favorite. The 30 small campsites are close together with limited privacy, the squirrels are relentless (unquestionably due to the constant prevalence of easy meals) and the cantina, restaurant, and lodging at Phantom Ranch take away slightly from the backpacking/backcountry experience. Not to mention the flush toilets and running water. The entire experience at Bright Angel Campground feels more analogous to car camping than backpacking. All this said, it still has many things to love especially for a one night stay. Bright Angel Creek runs right through it and the cold water is balm to any weary joints and muscles. The site also provides easy access to an incredible beach along the Colorado River that more than makes up for the sleep you’re likely to lose from your neighboring backpacker’s snoring. 

Havasupai Gardens Campground (f.k.a. Indian Gardens)

This is an excellent final night option if you plan on exciting your trip via the Bright Angel Trailhead. The 15 small group sites lie 4.8 miles from the South Rim and about halfway up the Bright Angel Trail making for a relaxed half day hike to exit. The campsites are quite close together with some offering more privacy than others. It’s situated in a beautiful cottonwood grove and adjacent to a small creek. Staying here also provides easy access to add on trips along the Tonto Trail or Plateau point. 

Cottonwood Camground

Camping at Cottonwood is a delight. It’s a smallish campground with 15 sites located 7.2 miles (11.6 km) from Bright Angel Campground on the North Kaibab Trail. This site feels a little more spacious and private than both Indian Garden and Bright Angel and this was definitely my favorite site below the rim. Bright Angel creek bubbles joyfully alongside providing several incredible spots to cool down or soak and relax. Sleeping here was a delight with mesas rising from all around the campground to provide an enchanting silhouettes in contrast to some of the most incredible stars you’ll ever see. Earplugs may still be required, but this site is not even on the same level as Bright Angel. Look for a couple sites on the left as you head toward the North Rim after passing the toilets.  Potable water is seasonal here, so ensure you have a treatment method if traveling between the middle of October and the middle of May. 

tent at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon
Camping at the North RIm - No one around!

North Rim Campground - Winter Camping

As I mentioned before, I believe staying a night on the North Rim is the ultimate hack for hiking the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim. It can be very cold at night with the possibility of waking up to snow. That said, the solitude provided here is unmatched by any of the other campsites on the R2R2R2.  You need to be prepared with proper layers and sleeping gear. We camped here and had the entire place to ourselves which was quite the change from the chaos of Bright Angel Campground. You’ll set up camp in the section near the canyon rim at the west end of the campground about a 1 mile walk from the North Kaibab Trailhead.  The view here is breathtaking! Additionally, you can explore the lookout at Bright Angel Point without another person anywhere in sight. The entire experience of staying here in winter feels almost post-apocalyptic .Ultimately, I believe staying here also makes for a much more enjoyable experience hiking the North Kaibab Trail as it provides an epic conclusion to the day. Otherwise, you’ll reach the trailhead (which has no view) after the big push up and turn around.

Itinerary options for backpacking the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim

There are numerous ways to structure an itinerary for backpacking the Grand Canyon rim rim to rim depending on your desired mileage, your fitness level, and the weather conditions/season. When planning your itinerary, note that both Havasupai Gardens Campground and Bright Angel Campground offer several great options for day hiking off the main corridor trails which may make them worthy of an extra night’s stay! Simply add another night or 2 to these campsites on your permit request. These base camp stops get you day hiking off the highly trafficked corridor trails, not to mention the reprieve of lightening your load for a day of exploration. 

Remember when planning your itinerary, it’s critical to recognize that the Grand Canyon is a place of extremes where both heat and snow/ice can impact trip feasibility. On our trek through the Grand Canyon at the end of April we watched our daily wakeup time increase to a nadir of 3:00 am in a futile effort to bike before the heat during an unseasonably warm spell. Best be prepared for the unexpected. 

 

With this in mind, let’s take a look at a few options:

hikere near Havasupai Gardens Campground

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 2 days 1 night

    • Day 1 : South Rim to North Rim Campground via South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trails
      • 21 miles (33.8 KM)  (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 5761 ft (1750 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780 ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2: North Rim Campground to South Rim via North Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails
      •  23.5 miles (37.8 km)  (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4380 ft (1337 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1750 m)
 

Itinerary notes

This is an extreme itinerary that is not to be taken lightly and is only recommended for experienced backpackers and thru hikers that have experience with pushing 25+ mile days.  This length of mileage is challenging backpacking anywhere, but the climate and environment of the Grand Canyon may at times make these distances impossible, completely unenjoyable, and often dangerous.  In the late fall, winter and early spring, snow and ice cannot be ruled out and may dramatically slow down your pace. In the spring or fall, unseasonal temperatures have the potential to make the Grand Canyon dangerously hot, making hiking during mid-day hours nearly impossible. If you’re thinking about taking this on, recognize that you may be forced to spend a significant part of your trek hiking in the dark and know your limits. Less is often more in the Grand Canyon, but if you’re limited on time and have the experience and conditioning, this might be the itinerary for you. 

View looking down to Havasupai Gardens Campground

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 3 days 2 night

    • Day 1 : South Rim to Cottonwood Campground via South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trail
      • 14.2 miles (22.9KM)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600ft  (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780 ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Trailhead and then Back to Bright Angel Campground
      • 20.8 miles (33.4 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4160 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5760 ft (1756m)
    • Day 3 Bright Angel Campground to South Rim via Bright Angel
      • 9.5 mi (15.3 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4380 ft (1337 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible

Itinerary notes​

Completing a R2R2R backpacking trip in 3 days is no small feat with several tough days and one seriously long day. Similar to the sprint of doing it in 1 night, this trip is only recommended for individuals very comfortable with their backpacking abilities and some knowledge of the conditions/extremes one is likely to encounter here. The first day provides for an early morning descent down the South Kaibab and the opportunity to take some time to cool down and wait out the heat (as applicable) in the Phantom Ranch Area. In the later afternoon or on cooler days, the section between Phantom Ranch and Cottonwood is smooth sailing. Day 2 is the most challenging, requiring an early departure from Cottonwood on days where heat may be a factor. The final day features shorter mileage with significant elevation gain made manageable by the availability of water and shade along the Bright Angel Trail. The downside of this itinerary is the lack of time it affords to experience or camp at the North Rim. Additionally, I found Havasupai Gardens Campground to be nicer than Bright Angel, but this itinerary makes camping here for the last night logistically awkward. Or maybe it’s just a good excuse to get a dinner reservation at Phantom Ranch for your last night in the Grand Canyon.

Hiker on the North Kaibab Trail

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 4 days 3 nights

    • Day 1: South Rim to Cottonwood Campground via South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trail
      • 14.2 miles (22.9KM)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600ft  (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780 ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM)  (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to North Rim Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4161 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 3 North Rim Campground to Bright Angel Campground
      • 14 mi (22.5 km)  (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1756 m)
    • Day 4 Bright Angel Campground to South Rim via Bright Angel
      • 9.5 mi (15.3 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4380 ft (1337 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible 

Itinerary notes​

Completing the rim to rim to rim in 4 days and 3 nights is likely the choice for you if you seriously considered doing it in 2 days, but really wanted the opportunity to stay a night on the North Rim. This itinerary groups heavy mileage with heavy descending and low mileage with ascending. The only downside here is the requirement to stay at Bright Angel on the last night vs the nice Havasupai Gardens Campground. That said, get a dinner reservation at Phantom Ranch and it might be the perfect way to spend your last evening in the Grand Canyon. 

The North Kaibab Trail near the Box area

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 5 days 4 nights

    • Day 1: South Rim to Cottonwood Campground via South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trail
      • 14.2 miles (22.9KM)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600ft  (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780 ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) to North Kaibab Trailhead (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4161 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 3 North Rim Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1756 m)
    • Day 4 Cottonwood Campground to Havasupai Garden Campground (North Kaibab Trail & Bright Angel
      • 7.2 mi (11.6 km) + 4.7 mi (7.6 km) = 11.9 mi (19.2 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1320 ft (400 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 1600 ft (480 m)
    • Day 5 Havasupai Garden to South Rim via Bright Angel Trail
      • 4.8 mi (7.7 km) 
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 3060 ft (930 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible 

Itinerary notes​

This might just be the perfect itinerary for hiking the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim. The daily mileage is manageable with one long day that is primarily descending.  Additionally, you’ll avoid staying at my least favorite campground (Bright Angel), and have plenty of time to take in the splendor of the Grand Canyon. ’d likely choose this route, if I were to do this trip over again. The biggest consideration you’ll  here is ensuring you get a very early start on day 1. If you don’t start early enough and the heat becomes unbearable, you may be forced to pitstop for a couple hours at Phantom Ranch between 10 am – 3 pm. The same goes for Day 4 when you’ll hike from Cottonwood to Havasupai Garden.

View from the North Rim

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 6 days 5 nights

    • Day 1: South Rim to Bright Angel Campground via South Kaibab Trail
      •  7.0 mi (11.3 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Bright Angel Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      •  7.2 mi (11.6 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600 ft (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 3 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) to North Kaibab Trailhead (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4161 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 4 North Rim Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1756 m)
    • Day 5 Cottonwood Campground to Havasupai Garden Campground (North Kaibab Trail & Bright Angel)
      • 11.9 mi (19.2 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1320 ft (400 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 1600 ft (480 m)
    • Day 6 Havasupai Garden to South Rim via Bright Angel Trail
      • 4.8 mi (7.7 km) 
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 3060 ft (930 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible

Itinerary notes​

Daily mileage is very manageable and affords the ability to avoid hiking during hot temperatures if you encounter them. This was the itinerary that we hiked on our rim to rim to rim trek. In ideal hiking conditions it may have felt a little relaxed, but with unseasonal temperatures well over 100F, we were happy to have the time.  We’d start hiking shortly before sunrise and finish many days before 11am.  Day 2 will be short with limited elevation gain, but this provides the option of setting up camp and then using the afternoon to hike to and relax at nearby Ribbon Falls. 

View to Bright Angel Campground from the South Kaibab Trail

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 7 days 6 nights

    • Day 1: South Rim to Bright Angel Campground via South Kaibab Trail
      •  7.0 mi (11.3 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Bright Angel Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      •  7.2 mi (11.6 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600 ft (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 3 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) to North Kaibab Trailhead (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4161 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 4 North Rim Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1756 m)
    • Day 5 Cottonwood Campground to Bright Angel Campground
      • 7.2 mi (11.6 km) 
      • Approximate Elevation Gain negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 1600 ft (480 m)
    • Day 6 Bright Angel Campground to Havasupai Garden Campground
      • 4.7 mi (7.6 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1320 ft (400 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible
    • Day 6 Havasupai Garden to South Rim via Bright Angel Trail
      • 4.8 mi (7.7 km) 
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 3060 ft (930 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible

Itinerary notes​

This option is like the 6 day option, but splits the trek up between Cottonwood and Havasupai Gardens. Doing it this way allows you to conquer the hottest part of your ascent up the South Rim first thing in the morning and takes significant mileage and elevation off your final day’s trek out. 

 

tent at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon
My old Marmot Catalyst tent 3P camping at the North Rim

What to pack for backpacking the Grand Canyon

The lighter your pack, the more enjoyable your backpacking trip in the Grand Canyon is going to be. A lighter backpack helps you cover more mileage and more elevation with way less effort making big days more realistic, not to mention more comfortable!

If you’re new to backpacking, don’t stress out about buying the latest and greatest equipment. Save money and use things you already own that can be repurposed for backpacking, rent gear or borrow stuff from a gear-head buddy. Later, when you’ve gained more experience, modify your kit and change out gear as you get a better understanding of what creature comforts you can and can’t live without. 

Here’s a complete list of gear to pack for backpacking the Grand Canyon. Click any item below to jump ahead in the post for a detailed recommendation. 

Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 Tent in Sequoia National Park at Rae Lakes
This doesn't look like the Grand Canyon! I wish I had this tent for the Grand Canyon though! My Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 at Rae Lakes in Sequoia National Park.

Best tent for backpacking the Grand Canyon

I upgraded to Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 since backpacking the R2R2R2 and it’s been great, that’s it above at Rae Lakes in Sequoia National Park. It’s the perfect tent for backpacking the Grand Canyon as it’s semi-freestanding, double walled and weighs in at a mere 2.5 lbs. Unlike many 2-person tents, it doesn’t have a tapered floor and is able to fit 2 extra wide sleeping pads side-by-side with no overlap,  a rarity in this class of tent! It’s cozy for two, but palatial for one!  

If you’re looking for a completely freestanding tent that doesn’t need to be staked out to stand, check out the Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2. It’s unique blend of functionality, livability, weight, and durability earn high praise and Big Agnes’s customer service is outstanding!  

For an incredible ultralight option, check out the single wall Durston X-Mid Pro which weighs in at a mere 20 oz (565g). There’s a reason this tent has developed a serious cult following among ultralighters. 

osprey exos backpack
Using the Osprey Exos in Zion National Park

Best backpack for backpacking the Grand Canyon

If you’re just getting into backpacking, there is nothing wrong with using a large-size backpack with a decent suspension system (and good hipbelt) or borrowing one from a friend. Going this route gives you time to decide what features you need and whether or not backpacking (and the gear) is something you want to invest in.  Whatever backpack you use, make sure you have a good fit before by following this guide to backpack sizing.  When I first started backpacking, I used a 60L travel backpack, our Khmer Explorer Travel Set on Canada’s West Coast Trail.  While not designed for hiking, it worked great despite my ridiculous overpacking!  

If you’ve begun dialing in your backpacking kit and moving towards a lightweight set-up, check out either the Osprey Exos or Woman’s Eja. At under 3 lbs these packs provides a great compromise between barebones ultralight packs and the heavier feature-laden packs.  Their excellent suspension systems prevent the dreaded swampy/sweaty back on hot days. That’s my Exos hiking the Narrows in Zion in the photo above. 

Learn more about the Exos and Eja:

For a similar option that checks in even a little bit lighter in weight, check out the Gregory Focal and Facet (women’s) lineup:

If you’re an extreme gram counter, you might like the Hyperlite 3400 southwest. It’s 100% waterproof and constructed from ultralight dyneema fabric.  Being ultralight you’ll sacrifice features, so if you hate getting a swampy back (that’s me) you may prefer the Osprey or Gregory despite the weight penalty. Backpacking gear is always a zero sum game! 

Check the price of the Hyperlite 3400 southwest:

Sleeping mat

I used to have terrible sleeps in the backcountry until I switched to the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir X-lite. It’s incredibly lightweight, comfortable, and packs down to the size of a Nalgene bottle. This is probably one of my favorite backpacking items! Get one. You won’t regret it. Sleep well! 

Patagonia Sleeping Bag in a tent

Sleeping bag or quilt

My Patagonia Sleeping Bag kept me nice and toasty on the North Rim. Plus at only 822 g (29 oz)  it’s lightweight and packs down small!  I found the 30°F / -1°C  to be perfect for most outings – if it gets colder you can always layer up! Like all Patagonia products, it’s not cheap, but they stand behind their gear and the quality matches the price point. If you spend a lot of time in colder environments they also make a 20°F / -7°C version .  These bags are a worthwhile splurge! 

If you’re looking for an even lighter-weight option, consider going for a sleeping bag quilt. Feathered Friends  Flicker UL Quilt Sleeping Bag has won numerous awards and is a stalwart among ultralight backpackers. With a weight starting at  526g (1 lb 2.5 oz), I can see why! 

Backpacking pillow

Yes, you can sleep with a pillow not made of bunched up clothes in the backcountry. Check out the Nemo Fillo Elite. It packs down ultra small and provides a new level of comfort after long days on the trail. Once you try one you won’t imagine how you lived without! 

Water purification

Outside of the summer months you’ll need to bring something to purify your drinking water.  I love the Steripen. It’s light, portable and only takes minutes to purify a liter of water using only UV light. Press the button, place the pen in your bottle, and stir for a couple minutes it’s that easy!  

Make sure to bring tablets as a backup though should you run into any technical problems/dead battery with your Steripen.

Trowel & toilet Paper

The rim to rim to rim offers a number of toilet facilities along the way and you should do everything you can to make use of them and avoid the alternative! That said, it’s always a good idea to pack a trowel just incase nature urgently calls at an unexpected time. Follow minimum impact camping principles and be sure to go at least (650 ft) 200m away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.), dig your cathole at least 6 inches deep, and pack tp out. 

Swiss army knife

For fixing gear or cutting food, make sure to bring swiss army knife.

Stove & fuel canister

Lightweight, convenient, and reliable, the MSR pocket rocket  has been my go-to backpacking stove for years. 

Lighter and matches

A little baby bic lighter is all you need. I often bring a small pack of matches wrapped in ziplock bag as well for backup or you could bring a small pack of waterproof ones.

Backcountry cookset

I love the GSI Halulite Microdualist II , two-person cookset. It’s lightweight and I can fit my MSR pocket rocket and a fuel canister inside.

If you’re looking to buy a minimalist stove and cookset check out the MSR PocketRocket Stove Kit  for an all-inclusive solution. 

Water bottle or reservoir

Nalgene are always a backcountry favorite. Check prices at Backcountry /REIIf you’re cutting weight or looking for a way to save a buck, a simple smart water is the go-to for ultralight backpackers.  

Alternatively, a hydration reservoir allows you to stay hydrated continuously without stopping to grab and open a bottle. 

Water storage container

Extra water capacity is important for safety on your hike of the rim to rim to rim. So make sure to bring a MSR DromLite Bag  or Dromedary for additional water storage.  They are also convenient to have around camp for cooking and cleaning up. 

First aid kit

From blisters, to scrapes, and cuts, a first aid kit is an essential item to have.  The pre-built kits from Adventure Medical Kits offer varying sizes for party size and trip length.  At the end of your trip write down any items you used and replace them right away so your kit is ready for your next adventure. 

trekking poles in the Grand Canyon
Using the Leki MCT Vario poles in the Grand Canyon

Trekking poles

The huge elevation gains and losses in the Grand Canyon make trekking poles an essential item in your kit!  I resisted getting them for years, but take it from a former skeptic, poles are incredible at reducing the strain of long, grueling descents and providing extra stability on exposed sections.  Leki makes some the best trekking poles on the market, I bought the Leki Micro Vario before doing the R2R2R and just look at how much fun I’m having with them in the photo above. If you’re looking for a premium hiking pole check out the new version, the MCT Vario. 

Headlamp with red light mode

The Grand Canyon is an International Dark Sky Park (IDSP) and you’re likely to encounter some of the most beautiful night skies you’ve ever seen. You’re also going to see numerous signs asking you to use the red light mode on your headlamp to preserve yours and others night vision. 

The Black Diamond Spot 350 is the way to go with 6 modes including the night vision saving red light! Red light mode takes a minute to get used to, but once you do it’s a total game changer trust me! Hello stars!!  

GPS, compass and map

The rim to rim to rim trail is extremely well marked and easy to navigate, but make sure to download the GAIA app for maps and gps. Additionally, I always bring a traditional compass and map for use in the case of technical problems or dead batteries.

Battery back-up and charging cable

Keep your phone charged for photos and gps. View options at REI.

Hammock at the North Rim Campground at the Grand Canyon

Luxury items to pack for backpacking the grand canyon

Should you pack a camp chair?

No need to bring a backpacking chair on the corridor trails as picnic tables are provided at every established campsite. Hello luxury!

If you’re heading to a more remote site and this item makes your weight cut, check out the Helinox Chair Zero.  At just over 1lb and is light enough to justify bringing on slower/easier backpacking trips where weight isn’t as big of consideration.

A hammock

A hammock can be the ultimate luxury item  or even a replacement to sleeping in a tent. Unfortunately, the Grand Canyon is hit and miss with spots to string one up.  Havasupai Gardens has a couple man-made options for hanging a hammock and it’s possible and allowed on the North RIm.  However, you are not allowed to use trees at Bright Angel or any of the other sites below the rim. 

If it’s worth it to get horizontal with some great reading material in the pre-dinner hours or take in an amazing sunset from your own outdoor couch, the ENO Double Nest has room for two and at ½ kg  it’s hardly even a splurge in weight to pack.  

P.S. don’t forget the straps are sold separately (view them at Backcountry / REI).

What to wear in the Grand Canyon

Staying sunsafe with the Sahara Sun Hoodie in Zion National Park

Sun hoodie - the best clothing item to pack for the Grand Canyon

When I did this hike a few years ago, I was shocked to see throngs of Arizona Trail thru-hikers wearing hoodies in the 100 degree (40 C) heat. Turns out they were onto something! A sun hoodie has been one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking kit. They keep you burn free, are surprisingly cool, and let you get away with leaving the bottle of sunscreen at home (or bringing way less). The Sahara Sun Hoodie from REI is one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking wardrobe and you can’t beat the price. 

Convertible hiking pants

I never thought I’d see the day I embraced the zip-off. But they really are the best of both worlds and can’t be beat for quickly changing Grand Canyon conditions and keeping warm in the evening  during the non-summer months when the temperature drops. Check out the Patagonia Quandary Pant.

They are also available in a women’s version. 

Should you hike in shorts or pants?
Should you wear shorts or leggings in the Grand Canyon?

Regardless of the season you’ll almost certainly get hotter as you descend. During many months of the year, that may mean going from near freezing temperatures to heat stroke temperatures all in the matter of hours. As we descended the South Kaibab Trail, a ranger took one look at my wife’s black leggings and said “You’re going to regret those”. Sure enough, an hour later she was making a trail side outfit change. To avoid this situation, just remember layers are key. If you have convertible hiking pants, wear those. If not, wear a pair of shorts underneath a pair of hiking pants. Layering makes it easy to adjust your temperature depending on the environment and how much you’re exerting yourself.

A pair of shorts

In addition to hiking pants, it’s nice to have a pair of shorts to change into after a long day on the trail or as a backup option. Trail running shorts are light and comfortable. 

Shell jacket

An essential piece for wind, rain, and snow. The Arc’teryx Beta shell is the best all around shell jacket. While you’re unlikely to encounter much rain here this shell performs in all adverse conditions and is the perfect outer layer for the North Rim. Arc’teryx gear is expensive, but impeccably designed. I was skeptical for years, until I purchased a few pieces of their trail running gear and got hooked. If you’re looking for the best reviewed hiking shell out there this is the one. 

For another excellent option that is more economical,  check out the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L. 

Staying warm in my puffy on a cold morning in the Canadian Rockies

Puff jacket

I’ve had the Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody for years and it works great on it’s own or underneath a shell for extra warmth. It’s a perfect multi-functional item for everyday, backpacking, and pretty much anything where you might need a bit of warmth. I’m still looking for an activity it doesn’t work for. This item likely won’t be needed in the summer months, but is ideal for cold nights on the North RIm.

Base layer top

In addition to a sun hoodie, I also bring one base layer top to change into after hiking or have as an alternate. The  Capilene Cool trail  t-shirts work great for me on long hikes and trail runs, but pretty much any athletic quick-dry top will work fine. 

Base layer bottom

A merino bottom baselayer is perfect for warming up at night or during chilly mornings especially during the non-summer months.

Underwear

I’ve had the best luck with these Patagonia underwear for hiking, trail running, mountain biking and skiing and found them to be more durable than the more expensive ones from lululemon. I usually bring a 2-3 pair depending on trip length. 

They also make women’s underwear, but I am unable to advise on fit, form, function, or durability on this front. Check them out for yourself at Backcountry/Patagonia.

Hiking socks 3 pairs

I typically bring 3 pairs of socks. 1 pair for hiking, 1 pair to change into at camp, and a reserve to throw into the rotation as needed.  Darn Tough Vermont makes the best hiking socks hands down. They’re guaranteed for life/replaced free of charge and they don’t stink. So go ahead and try to get holes in your socks. Really! 

Sun hat & warm hat (seasonal)

A ball cap or tilley hat keeps your face protected from the sun. Check out these options at REI / Patagonia/Backcountry

 For colder months, bring a winter hat or beanie to warm up during chilly mornings or evenings. 

Buff

This little item was super helpful on the rim to rim to rim.  It helped block sun exposure on my head and neck and worked great to cool down with by soaking it at every creek or water stop. 

Sunglasses

Don’t forget to pack your favorite pair

Gloves

I bring a thin weatherproof pair if you’re camping on the North Rim. 

Trail runners or hiking boots

Unless you’re hiking in the winter with the potential for snow and cold or you’re carrying the gear for your whole family, I’d choose trail runners for this hike. I’ve had great luck with the La Sportiva Bushido II.

The Altra Lone Peak are also a thru-hiker favorite and award winning trail shoe! 

I do have a larger more traditional hiking boot, the Scarpa Kailash that I occasionally use when I’m carrying more gear/weight or heading somewhere with lots of snow. I actually wore these on this hike as I didn’t have my pack weight nearly as dialed as do now. I prefer trail runners now, but these are still a great boot. 

Camp shoes

Crocs are back! Well for backpacking camp shoes they never left… They’re lightweight and ugly as ever. Many backpackers find them to be the perfect camp shoe for resting sore feat after a long day in boots/shoes. 

Personally, I still hate them. I have an old pair of Tom’s which I occasionally bring. They are light and less bulky than Crocs. If I’m wearing a trail runner, I’ll often ditch the camp shoe altogether and just loosen my laces. Your call!  

Additional items to pack for backpacking the Grand Canyon

Microspikes (season dependent)

Kahtoola Microspikes slip effortlessly over your boots and make walking on snow and ice a breeze. If you’re tackling this hike when snow and ice are possible, bring these! 

Low trail running gaiter (optional)

Low gaiters can be helpful for keeping rocks, sand, and snow out of your trail runners and saving you from blisters.

Duct tape (repairs and blisters)

Tooth brush & toothpaste

Food for backpacking the Grand Canyon

Everyone has different takes and caloric requirements, diets, and preferences so I won’t tell you exactly what to bring. I generally try to avoid/limit the just-add-water meals you find at REI . They’re overpriced and often don’t rehydrate as well as you’d like.  I usually head to the grocery store and search for things like lentil rice, ramen, or plant-based mac & cheese. They’re basically just add water/boil quickly meals and way cheaper. Always re-bag/re-pack this type of food, as there is no reason to carry unnecessary packaging on the trail. If you’re looking for convenience consider Patagonia Provisions soups and chilis. I’ve found them to be a better bet than the other just add water options. 

If you're coming from outside the US, don't forget this!

If you’re traveling from outside the US don’t forget to purchase comprehensive travel insurance that includes emergency evacuation. Check out World Nomads* for a quote. Hopefully, you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared! I broke my collarbone traveling a few years ago, which hurt enough! I can’t imagine how much worse it would have hurt if I had to pay the $15,000 in medical bills out-of-pocket… 

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Final thoughts on backpacking the Grand Canyon

    • Terrific first backpacking trip to the Grand Canyon that provides a great introduction to the nuances of backpacking here, not to mention the incredible scenery. 
    • First and last sections felt busy with day hikers from the South Rim.
    • The heat was unbearable at times and felt like the biggest obstacle to overcome, much more so than elevation gain. 
    • Would avoid staying at Bright Angel Campground if possible due to congestion. 
    • Would take the earliest possible Hikers Express on day 1. South Kaibab trail is much more enjoyable this way. 
    • Would love to camp at the North Rim again while it’s closed to vehicle traffic. 

Your Thoughts on backpacking the Grand Canyon

Have you backpacked the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim? I’d love to hear from you. Questions about backpacking the rim to rim to rim? Drop me a line in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help! 

More adventures you might enjoy

View along the Rockwall Trail towards Floe Lake.

Rockwall Trail | The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the Rockwall

The Rockwall Trail is one of the Canadian Rockies’ premier backpacking trips. For 55km you’ll be treated to a seemingly unending supply of sublime Rocky Mountain scenery. Here’s how to make it happen with must-read tips for getting a permit and beating the crowds.

Rae Lakes Loop | The Ultimate Guide to Backpacking Rae Lakes

Upper Rae Lakes at Sunrise on the Rae Lakes Loop

Rae Lakes loop is one of the most coveted backcountry permits in Sequoia & Kings Canyon National parks. For 41 miles (66 KM) you’ll be treated to a seemingly endless supply of the Sierra Nevada superlatives. You’ll hike alongside the roaring South Fork Kings River, experience the cascading torrent of Mist Falls, marvel at the sublime sunrise reflection of the Painted Lady in Rae Lakes, and experience the catharsis of reaching 11,978′ (3651m) Glen Pass. 

Rae Lakes Loop can be completed in multiple directions and on a variety of schedules. In this guide, I’ll break down everything you need to know to backpack the Rae Lakes Loop.  Here’s what’s in this post:

** Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you click one of the links and make a purchase we’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. We’re very particular about products and we only recommend products, services, or accommodation we trust and use ourselves.**

Need to know for hiking the Rae Lakes Loop

Days Required: 2-5
Difficulty: Moderate
Distance: 41 miles (66 KM)
Elevation Gain: 7200 ft (2195 M)
Elevation Loss: 7200 ft  (2195 M)
Permit Required: Yes, competitive.
Navigation: Easy, trails are well marked.
Water Sources: Plentiful, trail follows reliable creeks and rivers for the duration.
Food Storage: Bear canister required.
Best Campsite walked past or stayed at: Middle Rae Lakes or Upper Rae Lakes.

Things you’ll love about backpacking Rae Lakes

    • Sublime Sierra Nevada scenery.
    • Well marked and easy to navigate trail
    • Loop hike makes transportation a breeze.
    • Multiple entry trailheads possible.
    • Multiple side trips possible for various itineraries.
    • Opportunity to meet other backpackers and thru hikers.
    • Plentiful water sources.

Things you won’t love about backpacking Rae Lakes

    • Bugs can be viscous.
    • Solitude can be hard to find  as both the John Muir Trail and Pacific Crest Trail run through the most scenic sections.
    • There are bear boxes, yet you need to bring a bulky bear canister regardless.
    • Glen Pass can be snow covered until July depending on the snow-pack.
    • The sandy soil texture can give you mad blisters. (Bring low gaiters),
Bubbs Creek on the Rae Lakes Loop

What to pack for backpacking Rae Lakes

Here’s a quick summary of what to pack for backpacking Rae Lakes. You’ll find a detailed breakdown of each item at the end of the post with rational, alternatives and quick links to check prices at competing retailers.

How many days does it take to hike the Rae Lakes Loop?

The Rae Lakes Loop typically takes 2 to 5 days to backpack in its entirety. That said, there are many possible side trails  for hikers looking to spend more time in the area including Sixty Lakes Basin, Gardiner Basin, and Kearsarge Lakes.

How do you get a permit for the Rae Lakes Loop?

During the quota season (May 26, 2023 – September 23, 2023) there are two ways to secure a permit to backpack the Rae Lakes Loop: through a reservation or walk-up permit. Outside of these dates all permits are self-issued at the nearest visitor center. 

The classic Rae Lakes loop starts at Road’s End in King’s Canyon National park and follows either Bubbs Creek (counterclockwise trips) or Woods Creek (clockwise trips).

How to make a reservation

Permits for Rae Lakes Loop can be booked starting 6 months before and up to one week before your intended start date via recreation.gov. Up to 20 people are allowed to enter via reservation daily on both Bubbs Creek Trail or Woods Creek Trail (40 total). Once you’ve secured your reservation, you’ll still have to pick up your permit from Road End Ranger Station starting at 1 pm the day before your hike or as late as 10:00am the day of your hike. If you’re arriving later, contact the wilderness office to let them know to hold your permit or it will be given away. 

How to get a walk-up permit

5 people are allowed to enter with walk-up permits daily on either Bubbs or Woods (10 total). These permits can be obtained starting at 1pm the day prior to your hike. If you’re going this route, arrive well before 1pm to snag a spot near the front of the walk-up line. Make sure you have an idea of your itinerary  beforehand.

Do you need a park entrance pass if you have a backcountry permit for Sequoia and Kings Canyon?

Yes, you need to purchase an entrance pass to Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park at the gate or in advance. It’s best to purchase your entrance pass in advance to save time and avoid the line.

Buy an America the Beautiful Annual Pass in advance if you plan on visiting multiple parks or visiting multiple times within a year. Sequoia and Kings Canyon charge $35 per vehicle for a 7 day pass, so it doesn’t take many visits to National Parks or any public lands to pay back the $80 dollar cost. 

If this is the only time you’ll be visiting a National Park this year, you can also pre-purchase your 7 day entrance fee at recreation.gov.

Which direction should you hike Rae Lakes?

Rae Lakes Loop can be hiked either clockwise via Woods Creek Trail or counterclockwise on Bubbs Creek Trail. Prior to booking your permit you’ll need to decide on a direction to hike this trip. Here’s more information to help you make your decision:

Clockwise, from the Woods Creek Trail

Starting your hike from Woods Creek Trail results in a more gradual elevation change. This route spreads the 6943 ft (2100 M) climb to Glen Pass out over almost 25 miles, following a steady upward trajectory with a limited number of drastic switchbacks prior to the big push up to Glen Pass

Counterclockwise, starting from Bubbs Creek Trail

Heading counterclockwise from Bubbs Creek is more strenuous, gaining the 6943’ of elevation to Glen Pass over 17 miles. If choosing this direction it doesn’t take long for the thigh burn to begin with a series of switchbacks greeting you within the first several miles and before the first campsite option at Sphinx Junction.

Verdict on direction

In my opinion, the competitive nature of the permit process doesn’t afford the luxury of being choosy. Either way the hike is fantastic.

If I had to choose, I’d start from Woods Creek Trail (clockwise) for the following reasons:

    • Your pack is heaviest with food weight at the start of your trip, so more gradual elevation is a perk.
    • Afternoon thunderstorms can be common in the summer. A clockwise trip makes it easy to spend a night at Rae Lakes and summit Glen Pass early in the morning before this becomes a factor.
    • Rae Lakes close proximity to Glen Pass makes it easier to go clockwise for those looking to include a night at Rae Lakes in their itinerary. 

Additional trailhead options for hiking the Rae Lakes loop:

Aside from Bubbs Creek and Woods Creek there are several additional access points for starting the Rae Lakes Loop on the eastern side of the Sierras.  Starting from these trailheads will add additional mileage, but may afford you the opportunity to get a permit that might not otherwise be available.

View down to Onion Valley from Kearsarge Pass

Kearsarge Pass via Onion Valley

The most common alternative trailhead for doing the Rae Lakes Loop, this trail starts from Onion Valley on the eastern side of the Sierras and climbs up and over Kearsarge pass. At 6.5 miles (one-way), it’s a great option and a common resupply trip for thru hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail and the John Muir Trail. This trail offers stunning views of the Kearsarge lakes area on the descent from Kearsarge Pass. Permits for the Rae Lakes Loop starting from Kearsarge Pass must be booked through the Inyo National Forest – Wilderness Permits.   

Baxter Pass via Baxter Pass Trailhead

This strenuous 13 mile (one-way) route takes you over Baxter Pass before dropping you down by Dollar lake to the North of Rae Lakes. I have no personal experience hiking over Baxter, but my map marks it as a route (vs. a trail) and the official National Forest description calls it steep and rugged. Buyer beware! Drop me a line in the comments if you’ve done it, would love to hear about it. Starts from the Baxter Pass trailhead and is booked via the Inyo National Forest – Wilderness Permits on Recreation.gov.

Can you have campfires on the Rae Lakes Loop?

Yes, campfires are allowed on sections of the Rae Lakes Loop below 10,000 ft and assuming current fire regulations allow it. The elevation restriction means that fires are never permitted in the section of the trail that starts in the vicinity of Dollar Lake (including Rae Lakes) and ends near lower Vidette Meadow (if traveling clockwise). If you’re making a fire in the allowable areas make sure to follow minimum impact principles, use only existing fire rings, and ensure it’s doused repeatedly, cold to touch, and dead out before hitting the sack. Check with a ranger for all up to date restrictions before heading out.

Snow Going Up to Glen Pass on the Rae Lakes Trail

Is the hike to Rae Lakes challenging?

Like any hike the difficulty of hiking the Rae Lakes Loop is very subjective. Your conditioning, experience, and backpack weight are all major factors. Overall, I’d rate this hike as moderate. It’s well signed and offers multiple campsites to break the mileage up over multiple days. That said, there is significant elevation gain up to the highpoint at Glen Pass and its’ difficulty is compounded by the high elevation that comes with hiking in the Sierra Nevada. Furthermore, the potential for snow travel and river crossings in early season ups the difficulty level.

When to backpack the Rae Lakes Loop

The Rae Lakes Loops can be hiked from early-June through to October. The sun in the altitude of the high sierra is intense during the peak summer months and thunderstorms may pose a risk. Early season travel faces the challenge of snow on Glen Pass and potential for dangerous river crossings. In fall, temperature begin to drop and the potential for snow rises. If going early or late season, contact the wilderness office for questions on conditions. At all times of the year the trail will be heavily trafficked. Aside from Rae lakes being a popular backpacking destination in its own right, trail joins the John Muir Trail and Pacific Crest Trail for about 14 miles from Lower Vidette Meadow to Woods creek bridge.

How to get to the Rae Lakes Loop?

The traditional Rae Lakes Loop starts from Road’s End in Kings Canyon National Park. It can also be started from multiple other trailheads on the eastern side of the Sierras. It’s a loop hike and thus no shuttle is required.  Rent a car or drive your own, park at the trailhead and go nothing beats easy logistics! Am I right?

Hiking Past Upper Paradise on the Woods Creek Trail

Where to stay before hiking the Rae Lakes Loop

Arriving the day before to pickup your permit or looking to explore before your hike? Staying near to Road’s End in the Cedar Grove area is extremely convenient and there are several accommodation options that can facilitate this. Make sure to book these early as they fill up quickly during the busy summer months. 

Camping Options

Several campsites are conveniently situated in the Cedar Grove area making car camping the night before (or after) a snap . Book any of these sites through recreation.gov

Sentinel Campground – I stayed here the night before my hike. It’s a decent site, but many of the sites feel close together.

Similar and next to Sentinel in Cedar Grove are Sheep Creek and Moraine Campground which seem very similar to Sentinel just slightly larger.

If these options are full, consider Azalea CampgroundCrystal Springs Campground, or Sunset Campground in Grant Grove about an hours drive from Roads End.

Lodging Options

If you feel like getting off your thermarest and out of the tent for a night here are few great options:

Cedar Grove Lodge – Only 5.9 miles from Road’s End in Kings Canyon this is the most convenient option for spending the night before your hike. 

For other options inside Kings Canyon National Park check out John Muir Lodge or Grant Grove Cabins about an hour away from Road’s End in Grant Grove Village. 

Trail sections

I’ve described the sections of the Rae Lakes Loop based on my own experience hiking clockwise. If you’re planning a trip the opposite way you’ll have to get creative and try to think backwards. 😉 All distances and elevations are rounded and approximate. 

Roads End to Mist Falls

4 Miles (6.5 KM)

850ft (250M) Elevation Gain

After departing from the Road’s End Ranger Station the trail follows a wide path through an open forest with excellent views to cliffs and peaks surrounding the canyon. Sun exposure in this section is high and shade is limited. After a couple miles, you’ll hit the junction for Bubb’s Creek trail where counterclockwise hikers take a right crossing the bridge over the South Fork Kings River.  Clockwise hikers continue along the Paradise Valley trail which follows along the rivers west bank, The trail becomes quite lush with the moisture, nutrients, and spray from the river transforming the forest and providing some shade. The contrast is stark, where minutes ago there was a sandy wash, ferns and significant understory abounds. For 2 miles after the Junction with Bubbs the trail steadily climbs adding about 650ft (200 M) elevation before reaching the aptly named Mist Falls where an incredible torrent of water shrouds the entire trail in vapor and mist.   This is a spectacular and refreshing location for lunch or a snack, just be mindful of the slippery rocks.

Paradise Valley on the Rae Lakes Loop

Mist Falls to Upper Paradise

5 Miles (8 KM)

1650ft (450M) Elevation Gain & 350 ft (100M) Loss

Leaving Mist Falls the trail continues its steady ascent navigating a short series of switchbacks half a mile after the falls. Views back down the river valley are spectacular and amplified in the morning as the sun’s rays highlight the canyon walls. The trail follows the river up the drainage as it flows through a series of deep and dramatic pools before widening and shallowing out near Lower Paradise Valley. Lower Paradise Valley is typically the first spot where camping is permitted, but for 2022 it was temporarily closed due to the presence of numerous dangerous trees. If you’re looking to camp in this area for the night continue on to Middle or Upper Paradise . This section of the trail provides numerous forested sections that serve as a lovely reprieve from the scorching Sierra sun. I was fortunate enough to see a bear about 150 ft in front of me on this section. Naturally, he took off the minute he heard me singing…

Hiking Past Upper Paradise on the Woods Creek Trail

Upper Paradise to Woods Creek

5.5 Miles (9 KM)

1650ft (500M) Elevation GaIn

After departing Upper Paradise you’ll encounter the largest river crossing of this trip. There was once a bridge that crossed the South Fork Kings River here, but it was washed away in 2016. As of June 2022, there was no new bridge and a stream crossing is required here. The conditions are season dependent and day dependent.  I encountered no issues with this crossing in early June , but every year/day can be different. Ask the ranger for any guidance when you pick up your permit as from time-to-time log jams form in the vicinity that can make the crossing easier. Look for the old bridge foundation to give you a bearing of where to head and avoid walking to far. Additionally, once you’ve made the crossing, find the remnants of the old bridge’s concrete foundation again to re-discover the trail. There are a couple trails that lead north (or to the left of the old fountain), do not take these, stay on the trail that heads straight then to the right and you’ll quickly rediscover the main trail. You’re now on the Woods Creek trail!  Over the next 6 miles you’ll gain over 1600 ft of elevation (500M) in a steady fashion. Who said going up was hard!  Following your crossing, you’ll initially hike out of sight of Woods Creek before the creek becomes visible a couple miles down the trail.  Upon reaching Castle Domes Meadows area the views really begin to open up and you’re given a sampling of what’s to come.  After staying right at the junction and joining up with JMT/PCT you’ll come to the suspension bridge and cross over Woods creek.

Lower Rae Lake

Woods Creek to Middle Rae Lake

6 Miles (10 KM)

2000ft (650M) Elevation GaIn

After crossing the suspension bridge over Woods Creek the trail climbs 1600 ft ( 500 M) to reach Dollar Lake and the junction with Baxter Lakes Trail. This climb is steady over the duration and crosses over various tributaries that flow into the South Fork Woods Creek. None of these crossings are technical and are likely seasonal flows, unfortunately in early June several were not crossable without conceding wet feet. After reaching Dollar Lake the trail remains relatively flat and you’ll cross another small flow that connects Arrowhead Lake with Dollar lake and re-soaks your feet just as they were starting to dry. Arrowhead lake offers a decent size camping zone with food storage boxes, should your legs be too weary to go any further or are looking to avoid the crowd at Rae. Arrowhead is also a great second night option for those looking to stay near Rae Lakes for longer than 1 night. At this point the trail makes one more climb  to reach the majestic Rae Lakes. There are several spots to camp near lower Rae lakes, but many backpackers continue past the ranger station to Middle Rae Lake. Camping here provides an optimal view over Middle Rae Lake to the Painted Lady and peaks behind.  Sunset and sunrise here is guaranteed to delight!

Alpenglow at Rae Lakes

Middle Rae Lakes to Glen Pass

2.5 Miles (4 KM)

1500ft (450M) Elevation Gain

If you’ve stayed at Middle Rae, you’ll start your day with incredible views as you follow the shoreline along the northern side of Upper Rae Lake. After walking for about ½ mile (1 KM) you’ll encounter another small water crossing where Upper Rae drains into Lower Rae. There were no rocks to cross during my trip. If you have an alternate pair of shoes/sandals you’ve been using for river crossings, I’d consider wearing them from camp to this point given. It’s a short distance and you’ll save the hassle of making the change. If not, embrace the morning footbath! Shortly after negotiating this crossing you’ll encounter the junction for the Sixty Lakes Basin to the right, a great place to explore for those spending additional time in the area. If not, continue to the left, it’s time to tackle Glen Pass! From Upper Rae Lakes the trail gains 1500ft  (450 M) over 1.8 Miles (3 KM) to the trail’s highest point at Glen Pass. This ascent is negotiated over a series of switchbacks that climb over loose rock and snow, in the early-season. If you’re hiking early in the year, this is where you’ll want your microspikes so have them ready. An early morning start is also helpful, as the snow is firm and far less strenuous to navigate without postholing at every step. Regardless of the season, It’s tough work making the climb, but the awe-inspiring views of alpine lakes and jagged peaks are balm to your burning quads. Following a final step set of switchbacks the trail cuts across sharply skirting the ridge to the right before reaching the summit of the pass. Be especially careful here if traveling on snow or ice as the slope to the right is steep and a fall would have consequences. After navigating this final section, take it all in. A breathtaking view greets you in all directions!

View from Glen Pass

Glenn Pass to Charlotte Lake Junction

2 Miles (3.5 KM)

1300 ft (400M) Elevation Loss

After enjoying your time atop Glen Pass, it is time to begin your descent. The path coming down navigates a series of switchbacks, but without the same level of loose rock as your ascent. Additionally, this slope south facing exposure makes it unlikely that you’ll encounter any more snow travel. You’ll descend towards a small alpine lake for around ½ mile rapidly losing 350 ft (100 M) of elevation along the way. After this first lake the trail follows along a small creek that drains into a lower lake about 1 Mile (0.6 KM) down. There are several camp spots nearby these small lakes that may be useful for hikers traveling counterclockwise and looking to get an early start going up Glen Pass. After passing the second lake, you’ll slowly leave behind the alpine environment and continue for another 1.2 miles (2.0 Km) losing  525ft (160 M) of elevation before reaching the trail for Kearsarge Pass. Kearsarge pass makes for an excellent alternative entry point or add on loop (9 KM round trip to the pass) that takes in scenic views from the pass, Kearsarge Lakes and Bullfrog Lakes. Staying on the main trail you’ll continue for ¼ mile (0.35KM) before coming to another junction with Charlotte Lake trail. Charlotte lake lies ⅔ Mile (1 KM) to the right with this trail also serving as the access point for exploring the Gardiner Basin area.

Charlotte Lake Junction to Junction Meadow

4 Miles (6.5 KM)

2600ft (800 M) Elevation Loss

Following the junction with Charlotte Lake, you’ll encounter a series of switchbacks before continuing a steady descent alongside a creek and down the valley. From Charlotte junction you’ll lose 360M of elevation in 2.7km walking through forested areas with consistent openings to the mountains above and valley below before reaching Vidette Meadow junction . Upon reaching Vidette Meadow junction you’ll stay right following the Bubbs creek trail and bidding adieu to PCT and JMT trails as they exit to the left. From here the trail parallels Bubbs creek as it descends providing innumerable magnificent views of the crashing torrent as it descends down into the valley below.  About 4km after lower Lower Vidette meadow you’ll arrive at Junction meadow. For those looking to cover move ground, an excellent camping spot with bear boxes lies an extra 0.6 miles down the trail adjacent to Bubbs Creek.

Bubbs Creek on Rae Lakes Trail

Junction Meadow to Sphinx Creek

6 Miles (10 KM)

2000ft (600 M) Elevation Loss

Leaving Junction meadow you’ll continue to parallel Bubbs Creek and walk through a mix of forest and meadow. Catch views of the surrounding cliffs that encircle the valley walls and marvel at the perfectly eroded drainages where spring runoff funnels down into Bubbs creek. After 3 miles (4.8 KM) and a 300M loss in elevation you’ll reach Charlotte Creek which offers a collection of campsites to the left of the trail and near Bubbs Creek. As you continue past this area and down to Sphinx Creek look for the looming silhouette of Charlotte Dome (10,630 ft 3240 m) to the right. A further 3.3 Miles (5KM) down the trail you’ll come to a junction at Sphinx Creek. The Campsite here is the last (first)  place to camp if completing this hike Clockwise (counterclockwise). 

Sphinx Creek to Road's End

4 Miles (6.5 KM)

1300 ft (400 M) Elevation Loss

From Sphinx you’ll walk for about ⅔ of a mile (1KM) before encountering your final set of switchbacks. As you descend, look for views of the Sphinx 2786M to the southwest. Once you’ve reached the bottom of the switchbacks you’ll make your way across Bubbs Creek (unbridged) before crossing the bridge over South Fork Kings River and retracing your steps back to Road’s end and your car. 

Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 Tent in Sequoia National Park at Rae Lakes

Campsites on the Rae Lakes Loop

Unlike popular treks like the Grand Canyon’s rim to rim, there are no truly established campsites on the Rae Lakes Trail. Specifically, you will not have luxuries like tent pads or outhouses, but you have the luxury of getting to camp (mostly) where you please! There are multiple locations that are frequently utilized by backpackers and often feature well used/obvious tent sites, food storage boxes, and established fire rings. Bear canisters are mandatory for hiking the Rae Lakes Loop and priority in the food storage boxes is given to thru hikers on the PCT and JMT. However, if there is room many hikers pop their bear canisters inside to make it easily discoverable and eliminate the risk that a bear will accidentally roll your cache into a nearby lake or river should it attempt to get inside. You’ll find food storage boxes at the following locations:

    • Sphinx Creek
    • Charlotte Creek
    • Lower Junction Meadow
    • Junction Meadow (East Creek)
    • Vidette Meadow
    • Woods Creek crossing/John Muir Trail
    • Upper Paradise Valley
    • Middle Paradise Valley
    • Lower Paradise Valley
    • Arrowhead Lake
    • Middle Rae Lake

Itinerary options for hiking Rae Lakes

The traditional Rae Lakes Loop can be completed in 2 to 5 days, but numerous side-trails offer multiple ways to spend more time exploring this incredible area. The following itineraries have been provided as a starting point for helping you plan your trip. Only you know what mileage you’re comfortable with, so make an informed decision. Hiking and backpacking are rare activities where faster isn’t necessarily better or more enjoyable. The last thing you want is to be stressing out about whether or not you’ll make it to camp before dark.

Please note the following restrictions when planning your trip and check for up to date restrictions prior to booking and starting your trip:

    • Camping in Paradise Valley is limited to two nights.
    • Camping at Rae Lakes is limited to one night per lake.
    • No camping at Lower Paradise Valley due to the number of dead trees in the area.

All mileages and elevations are rounded and approximate.

Alpenglow at Rae Lakes

Rae Lakes Loop in 2 days / 1 night

Crazy? Maybe a little, but trail runners tackle the Rae Lakes Loop in one day of quad destroying bliss.  So, if you’re really short on time and are comfortable logging high miles in the High Sierra this trip is for you.

Clockwise via Woods Creek

    • Day 1: Road’s End to Middle Rae Lakes via Woods Creek
      • 21.5 Miles (34 KM) 
      • 5900 ft (1800 M) Elevation Gain 
      • 300 ft (100 M) Elevation Loss
    • Day 2: Middle Rae Lakes to Road’s End via Bubbs Creek
      • 19 Miles (31 KM) 
      • 1600ft (500 M) Elevation Gain
      • 7200 ft (2200 M) Loss
Notes:

 In this short of time, clockwise is the way to go as it allows you to spend a night at the loop’s namesake (Rae Lakes) and get up and over Glen Pass first thing in the morning on day 2. Going up Glen first has a number of benefits including: reducing the chance of having to delay due to midday thunderstorm and not having to conquer the toughest part of the trail at the end of a long day when you’re fatigued.  If you’re going with this itinerary, I’d start as early as possible. I  completed this same schedule on my first day hiking to Rae Lakes.  I picked up my permit at 7:00am and finished at middle Rae Lake shortly after 5:00pm with about 30-45 minutes of stoppage time (for lunch/snacks). It felt tough, but manageable. On the 2nd day it’ll be all downhill after completing Glenn pass as your first order of business and you should be back at Road’s end in the late afternoon/early evening, leaving you plenty of time to drive home, get a few hours sleep, and make that early morning Zoom meeting the next day.  Weekend warrior this trip was built for you!

Upper Rae Lakes at Sunrise on the Rae Lakes Loop

Rae Lakes in 3 days / 2 nights

There are a couple ways to complete this backpacking trip in 2 nights. If you cannot live with the FOMO of hiking to Rae Lakes and not camping there you will need to have one really big day and 2 medium days. If you’re alright with passing by Rae Lakes and not camping there you can spread the mileage over the three days on the trail.

Here are the options:

Option 1 - Clockwise via Woods Creek and camp at Rae Lakes

This is the choice for you if you MUST camp at Rae Lakes! I get it, this was me. Here’s how to do it:

    • Day 1: Road’s End to Middle Rae Lakes via Woods Creek
      • 21.5 Miles (34 KM)
      • 5900 ft (1800 M) Elevation Gain 
      • 300 ft (100 M) Elevation Loss
    • Day 2: Middle Rae Lakes to Junction Meadow, Charlotte Creek, or Sphinx Creek
      •  9.5 Miles (15 KM) to Junction
      • 1600 ft (500 M) Elevation Gain
      • 4000 ft (1200 M) Elevation Loss
    • Day 3:Junction Meadow, Charlotte Creek, or Sphinx Creek to Road’s End via Bubbs Creek
      •  9.5 Miles (15 KM)  to Junction
      • 3200ft (1000 M)  Elevation Loss
Notes:

Similar to the 1 night itinerary, clockwise is the way to go as it allows you to spend a night at Rae Lakes and get up and over Glen Pass first thing in the morning on day 2. By knocking off Glen Pass first thing you reduce the chance of delay due to midday summer thunderstorms and avoid having to complete the toughest part of the trail at the very end of a long day.

Day 2 gives you some flexibility on the final campsite, allowing you to lengthen the day and subsequently reduce your hike out on day 3 should you desire. If you’re itching for more miles, trips to Charlotte Lake or Kearsarge Pass/Lakes can easily be added to the second day.  This is pretty much the itinerary I hiked, except I added a loop trip to Kearsarge Pass, Kearsarge Lakes and Bullfrog Lake to Day 2. 

Option 2 - Clockwise via Woods Creek with even-ish mileage

    • Day 1: Road’s End to Woods Creek Crossing via Woods Creek
      • 16 miles  (25 KM)
      • 3900 ft (1200 M) Elevation Gain 
      • 300 ft (100 M) Elevation Loss
    • Day 2: Woods Creek to Junction Meadow
      • 16 miles (25 KM) 
      • 3600 ft (1100 M) Elevation Gain
      • 4000 ft (1200 M) Elevation Loss
    • Day 3: Junction Meadow to Road’s End via Bubbs Creek
      • 9.5 Miles (15KM) 
      • 3300 ft (1000 M) Elevation Loss
Notes:

If you’re looking to space the mileage out, this itinerary splits the elevation gain almost equally between the first and second days while leaving the shorter day for the final day to get where you need to go post hike. Downside is that you don’t get to camp in the alpine areas which are, in my opinion, the most scenic. 

Option 3 - Counterclockwise via Bubbs Creek with even-ish mileage

    • Day1:  Road’s End to past Charlotte  Lake Junction via Bubbs Creek . Stay near one of the small lakes about 1.5 Miles (2.5 KM) North of Charlotte Lake Junction and before Glen Pass.
      • 16 Miles (25 KM) 
      •  6600 ft (2000 M) Elevation Gain
    • Day 2: Charlotte Lake Junction area to Upper Paradise
      • 16 Miles (25 KM) 
      • 1000ft (300 M) Elevation Gain
      • 5300 0ft (1600 M) Elevation Loss
    • Day 3: Upper Paradise to Roads End
      • 9 Miles (14 Km) 
      • 2300 ft (700 M) Elevation Loss
Notes:

This itinerary will park you very close to Glen Pass for day 2 and you get the majority of the tough mileage out of the way on a tough day 1. The mileage is more evenly distributed, but this first day will be very tough. 

Hikers ascend a snowy Glen Pass

Rae Lakes in 4 days / 3 nights

Completing the Rae Lakes Loop in 4 days / 3 nights seems to be the Goldiloks zone for many backpackers. Here are couple options to do it in this timeframe:

Option 1 - Clockwise via Woods Creek

    • Day 1: Road’s End to Upper Paradise
      • 9 Miles (14 Km) 
      • 2300 ft (700 M) Elevation Gain
    • Day 2: Upper Paradise to Middle Rae
      • 12 Miles (19 KM) 
      • 3600 ft (1100 M) Elevation Gain
      • 300 ft (100 M) Elevation Loss
    • Day 3: Middle Rae to Junction, Charlotte Creek, Sphinx.
      •  9.5 Miles (15 KM) to Junction
      • 1600 ft (500 M) Elevation Gain
      • 4000 ft (1200 M) Elevation Loss
    • Day 4: Junction Meadow, Charlotte Creek, or Sphinx Creek to Road’s End via Bubbs Creek
      •  9.5 Miles (15 KM)  from Junction
      • 3200ft (1000 M)  Elevation Loss
Notes:

There are tough days in this itinerary, but the mileage is manageable for most backpackers.. You get to enjoy the splendor of Rae Lakes for a night and can summit Glen Pass in the morning. A winning itinerary, if I say so myself.  

Option 2 - Counterclockwise via Bubbs Creek

    • Day 1: Road’s End to Lower Vidette Meadow
      • 13 Miles (20 KM) 
      • 4600 ft (1400 M)  Elevation Gain 
    • Day 2: Lower Vidette Meadow to Middle Rae Lake
      • 7 Miles (11 KM)
      •  2600 ft (800 M) Elevation Gain
      •  1600 ft (500 M) Elevation Loss
    • Day 3: Middle Rae Lake to Upper Paradise
      • 12 Miles (19 KM)
      • (100 M) Elevation Gain
      • 3600 ft(1100 M) Elevation Loss
    • Day 4: Upper Paradise to Road’s End
      • 9 Miles (14 KM) 
      • 2300 ft (700 M) Elevation Loss
Notes:

By making a big climb to Lower Vidette Meadow on Day 1 you put yourself in good shape to make the trek up to Glen Pass on the morning of Day 2. Ideally you’ll have a good amount of time in the later afternoon to kick back at Rae Lakes.

View from Glen Pass

Rae Lakes in 5 days / 4 nights

Spend a little bit more time in the area and break up the big up days into smaller and more manageable chunks.

Option 1 - Clockwise via Woods Creek

    • Day 1: Road’s End to Middle Paradise Valley
      • 8 Miles (12 KM)
      • 2000 ft (600M) Elevation Gain
      • 300 ft (100M) Elevation Loss
    • Day 2: Middle Paradise to Woods Creek
      • 8 Miles (12 KM) 
      • 2000 ft (600 M) Elevation Gain
    • Day 3: Woods Creek to Middle Rae Lake
      •  6 Miles (10 KM) 
      • 2000 ft (600 M) Elevation Gain
    • Day 4: Middle Rae Lake to Junction Meadow
      • 9 Miles 14 KM 
      • 1600 ft (500 M) Gain 
      • 4000 ft (1200 M) Loss
    • Day 5: Junction Meadow to Road’s End
      • 10 Miles (16 KM)
      • 3300 ft (1000 M) Loss
Notes:

This itinerary groups the lighter mileage with the larger elevation gain and the longer mileage with the larger descents. The shortest day is to Rae lakes providing ample time for relaxation here. 

Option 2 - Counterclockwise via Bubbs Creek

    • Day 1: Road’s End to Charlotte Creek
      • 7 Miles (11 KM) 
      • 2300 ft (700 M) Elevation Gain
    • Day 2: Charlotte Creek to Charlotte Lake
      • 9 Miles (14 KM) 
      • 3900 ft (1200 M)  Elevation Gain
    • Day 3: Charlotte Lake to Arrowhead Lake
      • 7 Miles (12 KM) 
      • 1600 ft(500 M) Elevation Gain
      •  2000 ft(600 M) Elevation Loss
    • Day 4: Arrowhead Lake to Upper Paradise Valley
      •  10 Miles (16KM)
      •  3600 ft (1100 M) Elevation Loss
    • Day 5: Upper Paradise Valley to Road’s End
      • 9 Miles (14 KM)
      • 2300 ft (700 M) Elevation Loss
Notes:

This itinerary once again groups the lighter mileage and larger elevation gain and longer mileage with larger descents. If you’re going clockwise and looking to split mileage evenly between the days you won’t be able to camp at Rae Lakes. This itinerary includes a 1 mile side trip to camp at Charlotte Lake on Day 2 which is a nice spot to camp and puts you in reasonable proximity to Glen Pass for Day 3. 

Trees on the Rae Lakes Loop

More time? Adapt the Itineraries!

Add a low KM day or zero KM day in the Rae Lakes and Arrowhead lakes alpine area to any of these itineraries to give yourself more time to explore. Maybe you spend the day relaxing lakeside or day hiking into the Sixty Lakes Basin (3 miles each way from Upper Rae Lakes).   Remember, if you’re staying at Rae Lakes you’ll have to move your basecamp as camping is limited to one night per lake. 

Itineraries too long? Break up a day. Camping is permitted almost everywhere on this loop, so break any of the days up into manageable chunks!

Packing list breakdown

Hikes like Rae Lakes Loop are more enjoyable the lighter your pack. A lighter backpack helps you cover more mileage and more elevation with way less effort making big days more realistic, not to mention more comfortable!

If you’re new to backpacking, don’t stress out about buying the latest and greatest equipment. Save money and use things you already own that can be repurposed for backpacking, rent gear or borrow stuff from a well-equipped friend. Later, when you’ve gained more experience, modify your kit and change out gear as you get a better understanding of what creature comforts you can and can’t live without. 

Here’s some recommended gear for backpacking Rae Lakes Loop. Treat the links below like a buffet to jump ahead to the individual item recommendation or keep scrolling down to read through the entire list. 

Essential Items

Camping by Junction Meadow on Rae Lakes Loop

Tent

I upgraded to Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 last year and used it on the Rae Lakes Loop.  It’s semi-freestanding, double walled and weighs in at a mere 2.5 lbs. The best part is unlike many 2-person tents, it doesn’t have a tapered floor and can fit 2 extra wide sleeping pads side-by-side with no overlap. A rare feature in this class of tent!  It’s cozy, but workable for two and palatial for one!  

If you’re looking for a completely freestanding tent that offers a bit more durability, check out the Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2. It’s unique blend of functionality, livability, weight, and durability earn high praise and Big Agnes’s customer service is outstanding!  

For an incredible ultralight option, check out the single wall Durston X-Mid Pro which weighs in at a mere 20 oz (565g). There’s a reason this tent has developed a serious cult following among ultralighters.

osprey exos backpack
Using the Osprey Exos in Zion National Park

Backpack

If you’re  just getting into backpacking, there is nothing wrong with using a large-size backpack with a decent suspension system (and good hipbelt) or borrowing one from a friend. Going this route gives you time to decide what features you need and whether or not backpacking (and the gear) is something you want to invest in.  Whatever backpack you use, make sure you have a good fit before by following this guide to backpack sizing.  When I first started backpacking, I used a 60L travel backpack, our Khmer Explorer Travel Set on Canada’s West Coast Trail. While not designed for hiking, it worked great despite my ridiculous overpacking!  

If you’ve begun dialing in your backpacking kit and moving towards a lightweight set-up, check out either the Osprey Exos or Woman’s Eja. At under 3 lbs these packs provides a great compromise between barebones ultralight packs and the heavier feature-laden packs.  Their excellent suspension systems prevent the dreaded swampy/sweaty back on hot days. That’s my Exos hiking the Narrows in Zion in the photo above. 

For a similar option that checks in even a little bit lighter in weight, check out the Gregory Focal and Facet (women’s) lineup:

If you’re an extreme gram counter, you might like the Hyperlite 3400 southwest. It’s 100% waterproof and constructed from ultralight dyneema fabric.  Being ultralight you’ll sacrifice features, so if you hate getting a swampy back (that’s me) you may prefer the Osprey or Gregory despite the weight penalty. Backpacking gear is always a zero sum game! 

Check the price of the Hyperlite 3400 southwest:

Sleeping mat

I used to have terrible sleeps in the backcountry until I switched to the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir X-lite. It’s incredibly lightweight, comfortable, and packs down to the size of a Nalgene bottle. This is probably one of my favorite backpacking items! Get one. You won’t regret it. Sleep well! 

Patagonia Sleeping Bag in a tent

Sleeping bag or quilt​

Patagonia’s sleeping bags are 5 star!!  I received one as a gift several years ago and it has been nothing short of perfect. Weighing only 822 g (29 oz)  it’s lightweight and packs down small!  I found the 30°F / -1°C  to be perfect for most outings – if it gets colder you can always layer up! Like all Patagonia products, it’s not cheap, but they stand behind their gear and the quality matches the price point. If you spend a lot of time in colder environments they also make a 20°F / -7°C version .  These bags are a worthwhile splurge! 

If you’re looking for an even lighter-weight option, consider going for a sleeping bag quilt. Feathered Friends  Flicker UL Quilt Sleeping Bag has won numerous awards and is a stalwart among ultralight backpackers. With a weight starting at  526 g (1 lb 2.5 oz), I can see why!  

Backpacking pillow

Yes, you can sleep with a pillow not made of bunched up clothes in the backcountry. Check out the Nemo Fillo Elite. It packs down ultra small and provides an unprecedented level of comfort after a long day on the trail. Once you try one you won’t imagine how you lived without!  

Water purification

I love the Steripen. It’s light, portable and only takes minutes to purify a liter of water in a Nalgene. Press the button, place the pen in your bottle, and stir for a couple minutes! 

Make sure to bring tablets as a backup though should you run into any technical problems/dead battery with your Steripen.

Trowel, Toilet Paper & Hand Sanitizer

The lack of facilities on the Rae Lakes Trail make a trowel  a requirement for this trip. Follow minimum impact camping principles and be sure to dig a cathole a minimum of 6 inches deep and at least (500ft) 200m away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.). Pack out your TP. 

Don’t forget a  small bottle (1 oz) of hand sanitizer.

Swiss army knife

For fixing gear or cutting food, make sure to bring swiss army knife.

Stove & fuel canister

Lightweight, convenient, and reliable, the MSR pocket rocket  has been my go-to backpacking stove for years. 

Lighter and matches

A little baby bic lighter is all you need. I often bring a small pack of matches wrapped in ziplock bag as well for backup or you could bring a small pack of waterproof ones.

Backcountry cookset

The GSI Halulite Microdualist II is a compact, lightweight two-person cookset that can fit a MSR pocket rocket and a fuel canister inside. 

If you’re looking to buy a minimalist stove and cookset the MSR PocketRocket Stove Kit  is an all-inclusive solution.

Water bottle or reservoir

Nalgene are always a backcountry favorite. Check prices at Backcountry /REIIf you’re cutting weight or looking for a way to save a buck, a simple smart water is the go-to for ultralight backpackers.  

Alternatively, a hydration reservoir allows you to stay hydrated continuously without stopping to grab and open a bottle. 

Water container

Extra water storage capacity makes cooking that much easier and camp life more enjoyable, so consider the MSR DromLite Bag  or Dromedary. They are a must for trips without reliable water sources where hauling extra water is essential. 

First aid kit

From blisters, to scrapes, and cuts, a first aid kit is an essential item to have.  The pre-built kits from Adventure Medical Kits offer varying sizes for party size and trip length.  At the end of your trip, write down any items you used and replace them right away so your kit is ready for your next adventure. 

trekking poles in the Grand Canyon
Using the Leki MCT Vario poles in the Grand Canyon

Hiking poles

For the big elevation gain of the Rae Lakes Loop poles make a huge difference!  I resisted getting them for years, but take it from a former skeptic, poles are incredible at reducing the strain of long, grueling descents and providing extra stability on exposed sections. Do yourself a favor and get a pair of poles. Leki makes some the best trekking poles on the market, I bought the Leki Micro Vario several years back and have no regrets. If you’re looking for a premium pole check out their new version the MCT Vario. 

Bear canister

Bear canisters are required on the Rae Lakes Loop and Rangers will check for them.  BearVault canisters are best for their transparent design that allows you to see inside. For several people go with the BV500 for solo adventures the BV450 works great. 

Headlamp

The Spot 350 has 6 modes including the night vision saving red light. Red light mode takes a minute to get used to, but once you do it’s a total game changer trust me! Hello stars!!  

GPS, compass & map

Download the GAIA app for maps and gps. I always bring a traditional compass and map as well in the case of technical problems or dead batteries.

Battery Back-up & Charging Cable

Keep your phone charged for photos and gps. View options at REI.

Luxury Items (Very Optional)

These items are extreme luxuries, but may be worth it depending on your weight priorities and the distance you plan to cover. I’d only  consider these items on a low distance or base camp style hikes given their added weight and bulk. 

Hammock at the North Rim Campground at the Grand Canyon
Putting a Hammock to good use at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon

Hammock

If you’ve never strung up a hammock between two trees deep in the backcountry, you’re missing out! Nothing beats getting horizontal with some great reading material in the pre-dinner hours or taking in an amazing sunset from your own outdoor couch. The ENO Double Nest has room for two and at ½ kg  the weight can be justified on certain trips.  

Don’t forget the straps are sold separately (view them at Backcountry / REI).

Camp Chair

After a long day on the trail there’s nothing better than finding a nice comfortable spot to rest your weary glutes. The Helinox Chair Zero is a great option and at just over 1lb, it’s light enough to justify bringing on slower/easier backpacking trips where weight isn’t as big of consideration or for trips from an established base camp. 

Clothing & Accessories

Shell jacket

An essential piece for wind, rain, and snow. The Arc’teryx Beta shell is the best all around shell jacket. This shell performs in all adverse conditions and is the perfect outer layer for cool Sierra nights or stormy afternoons. Arc’teryx gear is expensive, but impeccably designed. I was skeptical for years, until I purchased a few pieces of their trail running gear and got hooked. If you’re looking for the best reviewed hiking shell out there, this is the one. 

For another excellent option that is more economical,  check out the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L. 

Staying warm in my puffy on a cold morning in the Canadian Rockies

Puff jacket

I’ve had the Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody for years and it works great on it’s own or underneath a shell for extra warmth. It’s a perfect multi-functional item for everyday, backpacking, and pretty much anything where you might need a bit of warmth. I’m still looking for an activity it doesn’t work for. 

Rainpants

Mountain weather can change fast and rain pants can be a lifesaver in your backpacking kit. Many have the functionality for quickly taking them on and off without removing your shoes/boots allowing you to stay comfortable even if you get caught in a sudden downpour.  I’ve been happy with the Black Diamond StormLine Rain Pants. 

Alternatively, check out the Patagonia Torrentshell Rainpants.  

For a budget backup option REI branded rain pants are a great choice as well.

Staying sunsafe with the Sahara Sun Hoodie in Zion National Park

Sun hoodie

When I went backpacking in the Grand Canyon a few years back, I was shocked to see throngs of Arizona Trail thru-hikers wearing hoodies in the 100 degree (40 C) heat. Turns out they weren’t just lost tech bros in the Grand Canyon, they were really onto something! A sun hoodie has been one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking kit. They keep you burn free, are surprisingly cool, and let you get away with leaving the bottle of sunscreen at home (or bringing way less). The Sahara Sun Hoodie from REI is one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking wardrobe and you can’t beat the price. 

Convertible hiking pants

I never thought I’d see the day I embraced the zip-off. But they really are the best of both worlds and can’t be beat for quick changing mountain weather. Check out the Patagonia Quandary Pant.

They are also available in a women’s version. 

A pair of shorts

In addition to hiking pants, it’s nice to have a pair of shorts to change into after a long day on the trail or as a backup option. Trail running shorts are light and comfortable. 

Base layer top

In addition to a sun hoodie, I also bring one base layer top to change into at camp or have as an alternate. The  Capilene Cool trail  t-shirts work great for me on long hikes and trail runs, but pretty much any athletic quick-dry top will work fine. 

Base Layer Bottom

A merino bottom baselayer is perfect for warming up at night or during chilly mornings.

Underwear

I’ve had the best luck with these Patagonia underwear for hiking, trail running, mountain biking and skiing and found them to be more durable than the more expensive ones from lululemon. I usually bring a 2-3 pair depending on trip length. 

They also make women’s underwear, but I am unable to advise on fit, form, function, or durability on this front. Check them out for yourself at Backcountry/Patagonia.

Hiking socks 3 pairs

I typically bring 3 pairs of socks. 1 pair for hiking, 1 pair to change into at camp, and a reserve to throw into the rotation as needed.  Darn Tough Vermont makes the best hiking socks hands down. They’re guaranteed for life/replaced free of charge and they don’t stink. So go ahead and try to get holes in your socks. Really! 

Sun hat & beanie

A ball cap or tilley hat keeps your face protected from the intense mountain sun. Check out these options at REI / Patagonia/Backcountry

 A winter hat or beanie is great for warming up during chilly mornings or evenings.  

Sunglasses

Don’t forget to pack your favorite pair, the sun gets intense at these elevations! 

Gloves

I typically bring a thin weatherproof pair of trail running gloves. The Black Diamond Mount Blanc have worked well for me.

Trail runners or hiking boots

Unless you’re hiking in the winter with the potential for snow and cold or you’re carrying the gear for your whole family, I’d choose trail runners for this hike. I’ve had great luck with the La Sportiva Bushido II.

The Altra Lone Peak are also a thru-hiker favorite and award winning trail shoe! 

I do have a larger more traditional hiking boot, the Scarpa Kailash that I occasionally use when I’m carrying more gear/weight or heading somewhere with lots of snow. I typically prefer trail runners now, but these are still a great boot. 

Camp shoes

Crocs are back! Well for backpacking camp shoes they never left… They’re lightweight and ugly as ever. Many backpackers find them to be the perfect camp shoe for resting sore feat after a long day in boots/shoes. 

Low gaiters

Low gaiters are perfect for keeping rocks, sand, and snow out of your trail runners and saving you from blisters.

Additional Items to Pack

Microspikes (Season Dependent)

Kahtoola Microspikes slip effortlessly over your boots and make walking on snow and ice a breeze. If you’re tackling this hike early in the season there will be snow on Glen Pass. Bring these! Check price at Backcountry / REI.

Don't forget your wilderness permit

After picking up your permit from Road’s End Ranger Station remember to bring it along. You’ll be asked for it if you come across a ranger. 

America the Beautiful Pass

Buy an America the Beautiful Annual Pass in advance if you plan on visiting multiple parks or visiting multiple times within a year of purchasing it. Sequoia and Kings Canyon charge $35 per vehicle for a 7 day pass, so it doesn’t take many visits to National Parks or any public lands to pay back the $80 dollar cost. 

If this is the only time you’ll be visiting a National Park this year, you can also pre-purchase your 7 day entrance fee at recreation.gov.

Tooth brush & toothpaste

I recently started packing these toothpaste tabs in a tiny plastic bag/ziplock to save more space.

Duct tape (for repairs and blisters)

Food

Everyone has different takes and caloric requirements, so I’m not going to tell you exactly what to bring. I generally avoid the just add water meals you find at REI.  They’re overpriced and often don’t rehydrate as you’d like. Check out these incredible soups and chilis they taste better, are made with better ingredients, and are less expensive. As another option,  I head to the grocery store and search for things like lentil rice, ramen, or plant-based mac & cheese. They’re basically just add/boil quickly meals and taste like real food. Always rebag/repack this type of food as there is no reason to carry unnecessary packaging on the trail.

If you're coming from outside the US, don't forget this!

If you’re traveling from outside the US don’t forget to purchase comprehensive travel insurance that includes emergency evacuation. 

Check out World Nomads* for a quote. Hopefully, you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared! I broke my collarbone traveling a few years ago, which hurt enough! I can’t imagine how much worse it would have hurt if I had to pay the $15,000 in medical bills out-of-pocket… 

*We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.
View down the Valley from Mist Falls

Final thoughts on hiking the Rae Lakes Loop

    • The Rae Lakes Loop was an absolutely spectacular backpacking trip.
    • Completing it in 3 days was manageable, but day 1 was long.
    • Would love to return to check out the Sixty Lakes Basin or Gardiner Basin areas.
    • JMT and PCT section from Woods Creek Bridge to  Lower Vidette Meadow felt very busy due to thru hiker traffic.
    • Bugs were pretty bad at times in early June. Saw hikers with face nets.

Your Thoughts on Rae Lakes

Have you hiked the Rae Lakes Loop? I’d love to hear from you. Questions about backpacking Rae Lakes? Drop me a line in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help! 

More adventures you might enjoy

View along the Rockwall Trail towards Floe Lake.

Rockwall Trail | The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the Rockwall

The Rockwall Trail is one of the Canadian Rockies’ premier backpacking trips. For 55km you’ll be treated to a seemingly unending supply of sublime Rocky Mountain scenery. Here’s how to make it happen with must-read tips for getting a permit and beating the crowds.

Angkor Wat Guide – Plan Your Visit to the Temples of Angkor [2023]

Preah Khan Temple Cambodia

Which temples do you need to see at Angkor? How many days does it take to visit them all? What’s the best way to get around temples of Angkor? Fortunately, after reading this guide, all you have to do it worry about setting your alarm to watch the sunrise! Well, almost… 

Angkor Archeological Park and Angkor Wat is a highlight of any trip to Cambodia or along the Banana Pancake Trail.  The ancient city of Angkor was once a vast civilization with a population of over 1 million people until it mysteriously collapsed and was subsequently absorbed back into the jungle.  Today,  Angkor Wat rivals  Macchu Picchu and the Great Pyramids in its ability to inspire awe in every visitor.

Spread out over a vast area, it’s likely that you’ll spend either one jam packed day or multiple days temple touring and fulfilling your own Indiana Jones or Tomb Raider fantasy.  Before we dive into the logistics, let’s look at the basics for visiting Ankgor Wat.

How do you get to Angkor Wat?

Angkor Wat is located adjacent to Siem Reap , the jumping off point for anyone exploring the temples of Angkor. Siem Reap is easily accessed by plane or bus. For more details on getting here or get tips on Siem Reap, check out our Cambodia Itinerary planner.

How much does it cost to visit Angkor Wat?

There are three options for visiting the temples of Angkor. 

    • One day ($37 (valid only on the day of purchase). The essential package. 
    • Three days $62 (valid for 10 days from the date of purchase) Typically the sweet spot. 
    • Seven days $72 (valid for one month from the date of purchase). For serious temple buffs or those hanging out in Siem Reap for an extended period of time. 
Preah Khan Temple Cambodia

What to pack for Angkor Wat

    • A small everyday backpack like our Kiri pack. 
    • Water (lots) and a few snacks.
    • Your ticket (it will be checked at numerous checkpoints).
    • Sunscreen.
    • A hat.
    • Sunglasses.
    • Bug spray.

DON'T FORGET THIS!

Unfortunately, when you’re riding bikes on busy roads, and climbing steep slippery steps up ancient temples,  medical emergencies can happen and you need to be prepared! A friend of ours was medevaced to Bangkok from Cambodia and spent several weeks in the hospital there to the tune of $750,000. Fortunately, she had travel insurance! 

Check out World Nomads*  for a quote. Their coverage includes medical emergencies, luggage & gear and trip cancellation.  Hopefully, you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared!

*We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

When to buy a ticket for Angkor Wat?

Buy your ticket the evening before your day of exploration anytime after 5pm to avoid having to make an extra stop to the ticket booth on your first morning. You’ll also get access to the Park that night, offering you the bonus of watching the sunset to kick off your temple touring. The most popular sunset spot, Phnom Bakheng, was extremely busy pre-pandemic but less so as of our last visit in 2022. The temple Pre Rup is also open until 7pm and is a great way to start your adventure after buying your ticket.

What should you wear to visit Angkor Wat?

The Angkor Park remains an active religious site. As such, it’s recommended that you wear a shirt that covers your shoulders and shorts/pants/skirt/dress that extend below your knees. Individuals not meeting this dress code have been rejected entry in some cases, so do air on the side of caution and respect. Beyond these considerations, wear something comfortable and breezy as the heat here can be stifling. 

Scams at Angkor Wat

While rare, in some of the smaller temples you may be chatted up by a child or adult who gives you a tragic tale about a series of unfortunate events that led them to a very poor financial position. The conversation may start out as just a friendly conversation that you can easily mistake as getting to know a local, but it will inevitably find its way to their dire situation. These individuals are generally cons, so do your best to get out of the conversation and politely leave when it starts taking a turn. There are plenty of ways to help out by donating your money or time to organizations truly making a difference in Cambodia, so choose this option instead to be a responsible traveller.

How to get around the Temples of Angkor

Angkor Archeological Park is big, really big! In light of this, walking from temple to temple is out of the question. Generally the two most common options are traveling by hired tuk-tuk or by bicycle,

Hire a tuk-tuk to take you around Angkor

$15-20 for the day

From the minute you arrive in Siem Reap, every driver, tuk-tuk driver, and tout will ask you how you plan to see the temples and eagerly offer their expert guiding services to you. Seeing the temples by tuk-tuk is a great way to go when it comes to staying as comfortable as possible in the Cambodian heat. Generally, many tuk-tuk drivers have a good idea of which temples to visit and at which times. They’ll help you plan out your itinerary and wait for you while you take the time to tour each one. Often the biggest challenge is finding the right driver. I’ve had good luck taking a driver affiliated with my hotel, hostel or guesthouse and usually recommend going this route. Alternatively, talk to a few before committing and pick the person you like the best!

Rent a bike and pedal around Angkor Wat

$1-9 (bike quality dependent)

Cycling is a great way to explore the temples of Angkor and truly appreciate the beauty of the magical scenery in this area. Many hotels and guesthouses make bikes easily available for rent to guests. Don’t underestimate this though, as you can easily be cycling for 17 km (Small Circuit) or 26 km (Big Circuit) in the scorching Cambodian heat depending on the route you choose. If you decide to take a bicycle, be prepared to sweat, and remember to bring a headlamp if you go out for sunrise. I’ll never forget the intense paranoia I had of becoming roadkill in the pre-dawn as hundreds of tuk-tuks and tour buses cruised past me as I peddled furiously along the road to Angkor Wat. If you need help planing your cycling excursion, use the map and guide below.

Best hotels and hostels to stay at for visiting the temples of Angkor

You’ll be staying in the nearby town of Siem Reap which offers innumerable places to stay. I asked Anika, a member of our team, to weigh in on the best options as she’s been living in Cambodia since 2018 and visiting Siem Reap every couple months. 

For 2023, her top picks are:

Navigating the Temples of Angkor - the small loop and big loop

The Angkor Park is broken down into 2 loops:

    • The Small Loop (~17km)
    • The Big Loop (~26km)

If you’re visiting Angkor for 1 day you will likely stick to the highlights of the Small Circuit.

 If you have 3 days, you’ll move onto the Big Circuit. 

If you have even more time, you’ll be able to spend a lot of time wherever you want and double down on your favourites.

Map of the Temples of Angkor

You’ll be able to pick up a general map of Angkor at your hotel or hostel, but save this image below to your phone for quick reference.

What temples should you visit at Angkor?

Deciding which temples to visit depends on how much time you have and how quickly you get “templed out”. Use the descriptions of the temples below to help you decide which temples are your own “must-sees”. I’ve marked several temples as must sees to help you narrow your choices if you’re short on time. 

Temples to visit in the Angkor Small Loop

Angkor Wat at Sunrise

Angkor Wat - Must See

The largest religious site in the world, Angkor Wat is a spectacular 12th century temple that was originally dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu and designed to represent Mount Meru, the sacred 5-peaked mountain of Hindu, Jain, and Buddhist cosmology. Despite the mass of crowds, a sunrise (~5 am) here is a truly unique experience. Make sure to spend time admiring the massive lengths of bas-reliefs and finding some relative solitude as the bulk of tourists eat breakfast or rub the sleep out of their eyes following the sunrise.

Phnom Bakheng

This hilltop temple near to Angkor Wat is a hotspot for sunset vistas. But with great views come great crowds. Pre-pandemic you had to arrive here early if you wanted to get a spot, but it’s much quieter these days as tourism in Cambodia is only slowly picking up again. During the day this is a place to find solitude, although it gets extremely hot during midday as there is no tree cover once you reach the temple

Angkor Thom

 Literally means “Great City”. If ever there was an ancient city worthy of its namesake, it’s Angkor Thom. The minute you enter, over the gigantic moats, through the walls, and beneath the faces that watch over each gate, you will be taken aback by the size and scale of this ancient citadel. The following temples are highlights within the Angkor Thom complex:

Bayon - Must See

At the heart of Angkor Thom is the Bayon. While smaller than Angkor Wat in size, the detail and 216 smiling faces adorning its towers make this temple a fan favourite.  Many theorize that the faces depict King Jayavarman VII the builder of Bayon and Angkor Thom. This temple is truly spectacular in its level of detail. The upper level is currently closed for restoration, but be sure to explore the beautiful lower levels of the Bayon to peek up at the towering faces above.

View from the Baphoun Temple in Angkor

Baphuon

Slightly north of Bayon lies the 30m tall 3-tiered Baphuon. Climb the steep steps to take in the view over Angkor Thom. As you journey around this magnificent structure and observe its details, take a moment to appreciate that you’re standing on a restoration project that was 50+ years in the making.  By the 20th century the Baphuon had almost entirely collapsed and an epic restoration project began. Over 300, 000 of the blocks were labelled and arranged around the area and a detailed catalogue created. Then the Khmer Rouge conflict followed and the plans were lost. In 1996 restoration resumed, and piece by piece the temple was reassembled over the span of 15 years.  On April 2011 the temple reopened, fully restored. Some call it one of the world’s largest puzzles, and for good reason.

Preah Palilay

Continuing north from Baphuon, the often forgotten jungle-gem of Preah Palilay is one of my most recent favourite discoveries within Angkor Thom. Tucked away behind a Buddhist monastery in the forest, this little temple has a chimney-like tower at its centre and several huge trees entangling its base stretch almost as high as the tower itself. This temple is worth a quick visit to really feel like Indiana Jones.

Banteay Kdei ​at Angkor Wat Cambodia

Banteay Kdei

Banteay Kdei is similar in style to Ta Prohm and Preah Khan, but a smaller version. It’s a charming little temple located across from Srah Srang lake.

Srah Srang​ at Angkor Wat in Cambodia

Srah Srang

This large water reservoir demonstrates the engineering capabilities of the Khmer Empire. It also happens to be a nice place to watch sunrise with fewer crowds.

ta keo temple at Angkor

Ta Keo

Just outside of Angkor Thom lies Ta Keo. A mountain style temple dedicated to Shiva, Ta Keo was left unfinished in the 11th century. An inscription claims it was struck by lightning, a bad omen that led to a halt in its building, but the death of the temple’s commissioning King is another potential reason. Regardless, climbing Ta Keo’s three tiers of steep steps are worth the fear of slipping to get a nice view from the top level.

Srah Srang​

Ta Prohm - Must See

The iconic tree temple that was brought to fame by Tomb Raider lies about 1km to the east of Angkor Thom. Ta Prohm was originally built as a Mahayana Buddhist monastery and university. Today Ta Prohm is one of the most popular temples in the Angkor Archeological Park due to the fact is was left almost as it was found when rediscovered. Massive trees drape their roots over ancient stones striking up an incredible contrast of man vs. nature.

Temples to visit in the Angkor Big Loop

Preah Khan

Reminiscent of Ta Prohm (including the unrestored style), but with half the crowds. This temple is a must visit. Wander the many corridors and meditate among the trees. If you get your timing right, you may even have the place virtually to yourself.  

Ta Som

 A small temple in the theme of Preah Khan and Ta Prohm, Ta Som is another one of my favourite places. Tucked away in the jungle on a dirt road off of the main concrete circuit, this temple is often missed by the tourist hordes and I’ve had the place to myself on multiple occasions. It’s a beautiful place to navigate through the rubble and admire the trees soaring through and beyond its stone walls.

Neak Pean​ temple in Angkor

Neak Pean

Just down the road from Preah Khan lies this small and peaceful water temple. Its small size and boardwalk access can make it a little crowded during busy times, but it’s a beautiful place nonetheless.

Pre Rup

A great choice for sunset if you’re looking to avoid the crowds of Phnom Bakheng, Pre Rup offers striking views over the surrounding area. Remarkably it never gets too busy here, so climb up to Pre Rup’s top tier and sit down for a bit of relaxation to absorb the beauty of the Park.

Temples to Visit Beyond the Angkor Park

Banteay Srei

 25 km northeast of Angkor Thom lies Banteay Srei. This small temple is frequently raved about for its elaborate carving that may be the most elaborate of all the temples of Angkor. You’ll need a tuk-tuk to get here, but if you have the energy after all the other temples, the carvings are worth the trip.

Find the Hidden Temples

If you’ve visiting all the temples in the big and smalll loop, go beyond the tourist track at these secret temples.  

How many days does it take to visit the Temples of Angkor?

If you’re someone that’s alright with hitting the highlights in one whirlwind of a day, it’s possible to visit Angkor Wat and the surronding temples in 1 day (see below). Most visitors looks to space their trips out over several days which allows ample time for seeing all the major temples in the Angkor Archeological Park. 

How to visit the Temples of Angkor in 1 day

Visiting Angkor in 1 day is a whirlwind, but if you’re short on time here’s my recommendation on how to do it.  If you’re biking, count on a commute of 1 hour to Angkor Wat if you’re staying on the northern side of Siem Reap, longer if you’re staying elsewhere. (Take it from someone who missed the sunrise not once but twice. Don’t miss it…)

Click the name to link back to the description above if you need to refresh your memory of a particular temple!

Angkor Wat at Sunrise

5:00 am Sunrise at Angkor Wat

7:30 am Angkor Thom

12:30 pm Lunch in Angkor Thom

1:30 pm Quick stop at Ta Keo

2:00 pm Ta Prohm

4:00 pm Banteay Kdei

5-6 pm Watch the sunset at Srah Srang or frantically back pedal through Angkor Thom and watch from the hilltop temple of Phnom Bakheng (leave early or cut Banteay Kdei if choosing this option to be sure you get a spot).

7 pm Relax. Take a deep breath. You saw the highlights of Angkor in 1 crazy day.

How to visit the Temples of Angkor in 3 days

3 days is the perfect amount of time to get the full Angkor experience. It’s a busy 3 days , but affords you the time to see all the temples you want at a somewhat relaxed pace. Here’s how to do it!

You can click the name to link back to the temple description above if you need to refresh your memory.

Temples of Angkor Itinerary Day 1: Angkor Wat & Ta Phrom

Stop 1: Angkor Wat

Start the day at the world famous Angkor Wat if you can bring yourself to wake up for the sunrise (5 am). It really is a breathtaking (albeit crowded) experience. Spend several hours admiring the vast bas-reliefs and queuing up to climb the steep steps to the upper level. Grab breakfast, a less than fantastic coffee, or the snack of your choosing at one of the many stalls/cafes along the north side of Angkor Wat.

Stop 2: Srah Srang & Banteay Kdei

 Instead of proceeding north to Angkor Thom (we’ll save that for day 2), head east to Srah Srang and Banteay Kdei. Spend some time enjoying the reservoir and small temple.

Stop 3: Ta Prohm

Explore the magnificent Ta Prohm and get to know your inner Indiana Jones or Lara Croft (among many other people trying to do the same thing).

Stop 4: Ta Keo

Take the time to climb up the Ta Keo mountain temple, before calling your first day. If you made it for the sunrise at Angkor Wat, you may be itching for a nap.  Even if you didn’t make sunrise, you’re likely going to be itching to cool down poolside with an ice cold Angkor draft, or maybe a nap and a cool down…

Temples of Angkor Itinerary Day 2: Angkor Thom

Cycle past Angkor Wat and proceed through the south gate into the great city of Angkor Thom. The temples in here don’t open until 7:30, but if you take the time to arrive around this time you’ll be rewarded with far fewer crowds than later in the day. Better yet, the morning is generally mildly cooler.

Stop 1: The Gates

No matter how you enter Angkor Thom, you’ll pass over the great moat and through an intimidating set of gates and walls towering over 9m tall.  

Stop 2: Bayon

At the centre of Angkor Thom this incredible temple can easily occupy several hours of exploration. Wander along the Terrace of the Leper King and Terrace of the Elephants, transporting yourself back to a time when this parade route would have seen kings returning victorious from battle.

Stop 3: Baphuon

Conclude your day by summiting the world’s biggest jigsaw puzzle and admiring the amazing restoration work.  

Then...

Afternoon (time dependent) in Siem Reap or visit further out Banteay Srei by tuk-tuk or motorbike.

Temples of Angkor Itinerary Day 3: The Big Circuit

An early start will once again be to your advantage. Set out biking past Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom before continuing through the north gate until you reach Preah Khan.

Stop 1: Preah Khan

Wander through this massive temple and enjoy the relative quiet compared to the temples along the small circuit. Find a spot to sit and appreciate the power of the gigantic trees that engulf this temple.

Stop 2: Neak Pean, Ta Som and Pre Rup

Once you’ve finished at Preah Khan, continue down the road, stopping at Neak Pean and wandering across the boardwalk before proceeding onwards to Ta Som and concluding at Pre Rup.

Conclude Your Time at Angkor

If you’re not templed-out, bike back past Ta Prohm and through Angkor Thom, taking the time to stop at your favourites one more time. You also have the option to climb up Phnom Bakheng and bid adieu to your time at Angkor with a view. If it’s later on in the day already, you may even want to take the time to linger and watch the sunset over Angkor Wat. The perfect conclusion to the way you started.

Final thoughts

Hopefully, you found these tips helpful for planning your trip to Angkor Wat and the temples of Angkor. Questions? Drop me a line in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help you out!

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