Big Pine Lakes | The Ultimate Guide to the North Fork Trail

Fifth Lake in the Big Pine Lakes Area

The Big Pine Lakes area showcases some of the Sierra Nevada’s most spectacular scenery with vistas of glimmering alpine lakes, cascading waterfalls, craggy peaks, and one of California’s few remaining glaciers. Over 4.5 miles (7.2 KM) the Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail gains over 2300 ft (700 m) of elevation before reaching the first of seven stunning alpine lakes.  The Big Pine Lakes hike can be completed as epic day hike, but is best experienced as a 2-4 day backpacking tripSet up a lakeside base camp, then swim, fish, peak bag, or hike, taking the time to fully immerse yourself in the dramatic Sierra Nevada scenery.

The biggest downside of the Big Pine Lakes hike is that it’s definitely insta-famous and ranks alongside Rae Lakes, Little Yosemite Valley, and Mount Whitney as one of the most popular permits in the Sierras. Securing a wilderness permit to hike the Big Pine Creek North Fork is the hiking equivalent of landing Taylor Swift tickets. This means, you have to know your dates, times, understand the process, and hope for a bit of luck. Fortunately for you, I’ve put together a few bonus tips to help optimize your probability of landing a permit.

 First, let’s start with a few of the basics.

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Need to know for hiking Big Pine Lakes

  • Days Required: 1-4 days.
  • Difficulty: Moderate
  • Distance: 15.5 miles round trip (to Seventh Lake and return via Black Lake Trail)
  • Type: Lollipop Loop
  • Elevation Gain: 4450 ft
  • Elevation Loss: 4400 ft
  • Permit Required: Yes (for overnight trips).
  • Official Trail Name: Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail 
  • Location: Inyo National Forest
  • Navigation: Easy. Well signed trail.
  • Water Sources: Plentiful. Trail parallels the Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail  and lakes for vast majority. 
  • Food Storage: Bear Canister Recommended.
  • Best Campsite Walked Past or Stayed At: Fifth Lake

Things you'll love about the Big Pine Lakes Hike

    • Breathtaking High Sierra Scenery
    • 9 Alpine Lakes! (Lakes 1-7, Summit Lake, and Black Lake)
    • Amazing campsites
    • Incredible Side Trip to Pallisades Glacier
    • Plenty of Peak Bagging/Scrambling Opportunities
    • Perfect Weekend Backpacking Trip

Things you won't love the Big Pine Lakes Hike

    • Limited solitude with a highly competitive permit process
    • First 2 miles (3.2 KM) are hot and sun exposed, if not started early
    • Significant elevation gain at high elevation may require acclimatization (especially if coming from sea level) 

What to pack for Big Pine Lakes

Here’s a quick hit list of what to pack for day hiking or backpacking to Big Pine Lakes. An uber thorough breakdown of the backpacking packing list with rational has been provided at the end of this post.

Backpacking

Don’t Forget

Essential Items

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Dayhiking

How to get to the Big Pine Lakes

Big Pine Creek Trailhead is located 11 miles from the town of Big Pine on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada along US-395. The town of Big Pine is: 

    • 253 miles from Los Angeles
    • 313 miles from San Fransisco 
    • 53 miles from Mammoth Yosemite Airport

Where to stay before this trip

The Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail climbs to an elevation of over 10,000ft and spending at least one night before your trip sleeping at higher elevation makes a big difference in acclimatizing. There are multiple great car camping sites near the trailhead, if sleeping in the car sounds unappealing.

The following sites are within a couple miles of the trailhead:

As an alternative option, Glacier lodge is situation near the trailhead and offers rustic cabins for rent. 

 For more cushy option, stay at the Wayfinder hotel in the town of Bishop, approximately a 40 minutes drive from the trailhead.  

Big Pine Lakes permit information

Dayhiking

If you’re planning on hiking into the Big Pine Lakes area and returning to your car the same day, no wilderness permit is required.   You’re required to have a valid interagency pass displayed on your vehicle when parking in Inyo National forest at the trailhead. 

Backpacking

To backpack/overnight in the Big Pine Lakes area you need a permit reservation for the Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail.  Please note that the Big Pine Creek South Fork is a completely different trail and does not provide access to the Big Pine Lakes area.

How to secure a wilderness permit

Obtaining a permit to backpack Big Pine Lakes via the Big Pine Creek North Fork trail is a challenge. 60% of permits are released 6 months before the trip start date. For instance, July 4 opens on January 4. The remaining 40% of permits are released two weeks before. All permits are available via the Inyo National Forest – Wilderness Permits page on recreation.gov and are released at 7am PST.  

To give yourself the best chance at securing an overnight permit follow these steps: 

    • Be as flexible on start date as possible, this gives you multiple kicks at the can. If you can start your permit hunt 6 months before your desired start date. 
    • If you’re trying to land a permit 2 weeks before, flexibility is once again key. Multiple rolls of the dice equals higher likelihood of eventual success.
    • If you try to get a permit at 7 am and it’s sold out, wait 15-20 minutes (i.e. 7:15 – 7:20 am) for the website’s timeout period, as individuals frequently do not complete their reservations after adding them to cart and they’ll be released back after the timeout window ends.  This is actually how I landed our permit! 
    •  If your dates are super flexible, flip through multiple weeks/months a couple times a day, you’ll often find a permit or two are available when following this method. 

Once You Have Your Permit

    • Print it  and sign it before your trip and bring it along. If you don’t print it it’s not deemed to be activated. 
    • Read all instructions, there are important details about food storage, leave no trace, and important trail information. 
    • Remember that you can make chances to your exit date (not your entry date) and proposed camping locations anytime prior to printing your permit. 

Do you need a national park pass?

No, to do this hike you only require a permit (as discussed above.

Are there Bears in the Big Pine Lakes area?

Black Bear’s are active in the Big Pine Lakes area and it’s critical to be prepared for an encounter. We had a bear come through our campsite and he throughly inspected our bear canisters. He was unfazed by our yelling, but took off immediately when I threw rocks in his direction. 

Follow these tips to stay safe and help keep these creatures from associating humans with food:

    • For backpackers, a bear proof canister is an essential piece of gear to pack for this trip. Keep all food and scented items secured inside at all times when not actively removing items from the canister.
    • Use the triangle method. Cook at least 50ft from your campsite and store your bear canister 50ft from your cooking location and your campsite. The three areas should form a triangle with 50ft between each point.
    • If you encounter a bear, stick together with your group. Make yourselves as big as possible by waving arms or trekking poles overhead. Yell “go away bear” and bang pots and pans. If these steps don’t  frighten the bear away, you can also throw rocks. 

Bears are generally uninterested in hikers or backpackers, but they’re very interested in your calorically dense food. This makes good food storage essential. 

 

Don't forget a Bear Canister

Bear canister’s are bulky and annoying, but they’re easy to use and the best way to keep your food and scented items safe. 

 BearVault canisters are the most popular as their transparent design allows you what’s packed where.

    • Go with the BV500 (view at REI / Backcountry) for 6-7 day solo trips or 3-4 days for 2 people. 
    • Go with the BV450 (view at REI Backcountryfor 3-4 day solo trips or weekend trips for 2 people.

Are dogs allowed in the Big Pine Lakes area?

The Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail is dog friendly, so bring your furry friend along. The following rules apply:

    • Keep your dog under strict leash or voice control.
    • Leash your dog around horses, and stock animals.
    • Store dog food in your bear canister.
    • Pickup and bury dog waste 200 ft from water or trail, in a cathole at least 6 inches deep. 
    • Keep your dog in your tent at night.  

Please note that the the upper portion of the trail to Pallisades Glacier is not dog friendly, due to several scramble sections. 

Are there toilets at Big Pine Lakes? Where do you poop?

Big Pine Lakes in located in the John Muir Wilderness and there are no outhouse or toilets. This means you’ll be pooping in the woods, so pack your trowel and pack out all toilet paper. Make sure you follow these rules to help keep Big Pine Lakes pristine: 

    • Dig a cathole 6-8 inches deep at least 200ft from all water sources and trails. 
    • Poo in the cathole.
    • Pack all your toiletpaper out. Or leave the TP at home and use smooth rocks or sticks (make sure to deposit them in the cathole). 
    • When you’re done fill the cathole with the dirt and tamp it down with your foot. Then add more dirt and cover it up with dead leaves or needles. If you’ve done this right, no one should be able to tell you just took a massive dump. 

If you’re new to pooping in the woods, check out this in-depth post for everything you could possibly need and want to know. 

Best Season for this hike

June – September is the ideal time to hike to Big Pine Lakes. Snow may be present on the trail well into June depending on the winter snowfall accumulation. Bugs are more of nuisance in the early season.  Summer nights are comfortable with hot days and frequent afternoon thunderstorms.  September can bring colder nights, but few bugs. Depending on snowfall this hike may be accessible into October, but  snowfall and very cold temperatures are in the realm of possibility. 

Temple Crag

What direction should you hike?

The hike to Big Pine Lakes is best done as a lollipop loop in a clockwise direction ascending past first Second, Third and Forth Lakes, and descending down the Black Lake trail.  This is preferred over counterclockwise (ascending Black Lake Trail and descending down past the lakes) due to the hot and exposed switchbacks that dominate Black Lake Trail. 

How many days does it take?

Big Pine Lakes can be done as lengthy day hike, but it’s best enjoyed as a 2-4 day backpacking trip. See the itinerary section below for a a full discussion of options. 

Can you day hike to Big Pine Lakes?

Yes. While I’d suggest taking the extra time to enjoy the Big Pine Lakes area by backpacking/overnight camping, this hike can also be completed as a long day hike. Many day hikers elect to hike the 5,5 miles (2800 ft of elevation gain) to Third Lake before doubling back along the same route passing Second and Third Lake along the way, making for an 11 mile round trip hike. For those wishing to visit all seven Lakes, add an extra 4 miles (round trip) and 1000ft of elevation gain.  See the day hike itinerary section below for a list of itinerary options for day hiking. 

Can you swim in the Big Pine Lakes?

The Big Lakes are cold, but make fantastic spots to take a dip in. If you’re going for a dip, make sure practice leave no trace by properly rinsing off any sunscreen, bug spray, makeup etc. off before jumping in and doing so well away (200ft+) from the lake.  

Can you have campfires?

Campfires are not allowed in the Big Pine Lakes area. If you plan on cooking during your trip, you’ll require a portable canister stove. To legally operate this stove you require a California Campfire Permit.  It’s free of charge and takes less then 10 minutes to watch the video and take the quiz. 

Trail Sections

Trailhead to Second Falls

2.2 Miles 1300 ft Elevation Gain

Views up the South Fork Drainage

The hike up Big PIne Creek Nork Fork begins with a hot and exposed ascent from the parking lot that rapidly picks up elevation. For the first mile from the overnight parking lot to the junction with the South Fork Big Pine Creek trail, the trail parallels the Glacier Lodge road and the car camping sites below as it gains 600ft (200m) through desert-like, shadeless terrain. An early start to your hike is favorable here to avoid the overbearing heat that comes later in the day.  While it can be hot, this section of the trail is an inspiring start to an epic adventure with views up the South Fork drainage and Norman Clyde Peak and Glacier in the distance. After 1 mile of hiking, you’ll reach signage at the junction that splits the North Fork and South Fork trails, keep right at the fork to continue up the Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail and towards Big Pine Lakes. If you require water or prefer a little more shade, another trail starts 30 ft closer to the creek below and runs parallel to the upper trail for approximately 0.6 mile.  If you’re bottle is full and you don’t mind a bit of extra sun exposure, the upper trail is preferred as it follows a more direct path with more consistent elevation gain (the lower trail doubles back and rapidly gains elevation after 0.6 miles to join with the upper trail).  After the two trails meet, the trail rapidly ascends for 0.4 mile via several switchbacks and gains 360ft of elevation as it negotiates the headwall adjacent to Second Falls.  

Start of the Big Pine Lakes Trail
The first section of the trail is hot and sun exposed.

Second Falls to First Lake

2.5 Miles 1200 ft Elevation Gain

Views along the Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail

After passing Second Falls, the sun exposure is rapidly dissipates and you find yourself walking among mixed forest adjacent to the constant roar of the North Fork Big Pine Creek. The trail gains elevation a comfortable pace climbing  270ft for the next 0.7 miles before reaching the Lon Chaney cabin. This cabin was built in 1930 by the silent film star Lon Chaney and is currently used as a ranger station. It’s worth checking out the cabin, specifically the southeast facing side, which is an ideal spot to fill up your water bottle /resevoir if it’s run dry or a great place to stop for a snack. 

When it’s time to carry on, the trail continues upwards meandering alongside the creek with the surrounding forest continuing to provide shade from the sun. Beautiful views of the cascading creek and occasional glimpses of the approaching Temple Crag adorn the walk up.  After 1.7 more miles of hiking and 825ft of elevation gain you’ll reach the junction with the Black Lake Trail. As discussed in the section on what direction to hike, I recommend that you stay left here continuing towards First lake. The right trail and the ascent to Black lake is sun exposed with multiple switchbacks  and far more enjoyable for descending should you choose to complete this hike as a lollipop loop. 

Approximately 1/4 of a mile after the junction with the Black Lake Trail, you’ll reach you the first of the Big Pine Lakes, aptly named First Lake. This gorgeous alpine lake nestled perfectly within the confines of a smooth Sierran granite basin, is a breathtaking introduction to the Big Pine Lakes. Scramble off trail to find a perfect spot to snack or enjoy lunch, before carrying on. 

The first view of first lake.

First Lake to Third Lake

0.7 Miles 200 ft Elevation Gain

The Big Pine Lakes hike is so jam-packed with incredible scenery it takes a mere 0.1 of a mile before you reach Second Lake. You’re now reaping the rewards of your ascent into the Big Pine Lakes Basin as the jawdropping alpine lakes come one after the other.  Larger in size than First lake, Second lake is truly breathtaking. . The Big Pine lakes are Insta-famous for a reason and the view from Second lake is a major reason why.  Temple Crag towers to the south and the massive Palisades range looms further to the South west. Take a moment to soak in the view or consider carefully navigating off trail to the east to find a little more seclusion away from the hoards

After you’ve take then time to enjoy your time at Second Lake, continue to follow the main trail as it navigates above the north eastern shore of Second Lake before climbing 200ft to reach Third Lake, only 0.6 miles away.  Third lake is a logical inflection point for deciding whether to hike on to the higher lakes, make camp (backpackers) or turn around (day hikers). Should you wish to carry on, Fourth and Fifth Lake are approximately 1.2 miles and 600ft of ascending up the trail.  The crowds tends to thin out a bit afterThird lake with many day hikers turning around and backpackers electing to set up camp at one of the first three lakes. 

Second Lake Views to Tample Crag
Views over Second Lake to Temple Crag

Third Lake to Fifth Lake

1.2 Miles 650 ft Elevation Gain

If you’ve decided to carry on, continue following the trail above Third Lakes northern shore, up a short series of switchbacks and through forested section of trail for 0.8 mile until you reach the junction with Pallisades Glacier trail.  If you have the time and energy, the trip along this trail to Sam Mack meadow and the Pallisades Glacier are spectacular (see side trips section below for full details on this trip) and well worth the time. To stay on the Big Pine Lakes trail take a right at the junction with the Glacier Trail and continue  for another 0.3 miles until you reach another fork. The fork offers 3 different options:

      • Left to Fifth Lake (0.4 miles)
      • Straight to Fourth Lake (0.2 miles)
      • Right to Black Lake (return route)

For those looking to complete the entire circuit of the Big Pine Lakes Area, my recommendation is to head left to Fifth Lake via the Fifth Lake spur (don’t worry you’ll still catch Forth Lake, it just comes out of order). After 0.2 miles, you’ll reach the eastern shore of Fifth Lake. Although Second and Third lake tend to be the lakes most gravitated to, Fifth Lake is the forgotten star of the Big Pine Lakes show. Two Eagle Peak and Mount Robinson bookmark a small cascade where North Fork Big Pine Creek descends from the Pallisades basin above. To the south Temple Crag, Mount Sill and Polemonium Peaks rise in the distance. The scenery here is sublime and is likely to be a highlight of your entire trip. 

Views from Fifth Lake
Views towards Temple Crag from Fifth Lake

Fifth Lake to Summit Lake

0.5 Miles 220 ft Elevation Gain

After taking your time to enjoy Fifth Lake, continue northeast along the trail ascending briefly before descending briefly towards Forth Lake . The lake comes into view through the trees and after 0.1 miles, you’ll reach a fork, keep left to continue your journey to the remaining lakes. After a short climb and 0.2 miles, you’ll reach another fork with a trail to Summit Lake leading right and the trail to the left continuing on to Sixth and Seventh Lake.  The trail to Summit lake is an easy 0.1 miles and leads to the small, but peaceful Summit lake.  

Cloudripper Peak from Sixth Lake

Summit Lake to Seventh Lake

1.2 Miles 550 ft Elevation Gain

Should you wish to continue your journey to Sixth and/or Seventh Lakes return 0.1 miles to the main trail from Summit lake and take the fork to the right to continue to the final Big Pine Lakes. The path from the junction with Summit Lake trail gains 400ft of elevation in under a mile, but affords some beautiful views of Temple Crag, the Pallisades, Two Eagle Peak and Cloudripper. By this point you’ll have reached elevation over 11,000ft, so be patient with yourself if you’re feeling a bit short of breath.  After passing over a small crest you’ll begin a short descent towards Sixth and Seventh Lake. The main trail ends somewhat unceremoniously to the north of Sixth lake. At this point you can head to the left and explore off trail to get a better view of Sixth Lake. If you’re looking to reach Seventh lake, follow the nondescript trail to the right (west) that leads through a marshy meadow and across the braiding stream.  The trail is not always evident, but navigation is easy just continue to follow the drainage and in under a 1/4 mile you’ll come across Seventh Lake.  Seventh lake is small, but beautiful with nice views of Cloudripper and Two Eagle Peak. Take a moment to savor the scenery and congratulate yourself for reaching the last of the Big Pine Lakes.

When you’re ready to return, head back the way you came until you reach a fork in the trail 0.1 miles after (south) passing the junction with Summit Lake trail. 

Meadow near Fourth Lake

Fourth Lake to Black Lake Junction via Black Lake

2.0 Miles 1000 ft Elevation Loss

At the Summit Lake trail junction to the north of Fourth Lake take the trail to the left which travels north of Fourth lake. After passing a small pond at the outlet of fourth lake and 0.4 miles after the fork, this trail merges with the Black Lake trail that started to the South of Fourth Lake.  The trail climbs a small hill and then begins a short descent before reaching the south shore of Black Lake. Black Lake is a scenic spot to stop and enjoy lunch, a snack, or refill your water before starting the descent back towards the Big Pine North Fork Trail to complete the loop. From Black Lake, the trail descends rapidly, losing nearly 700 ft of elevation in 1 mile of distance over multiple sun-exposed switchbacks. This section offers hikers their final, awe-inspiring views of the distant Palisades, and the first two Big Pine Lakes from above. Take a moment to breathe these in the sky-scraping spires of Temple Crag and enjoy the dramatic alpine panorama one last time. When you hit the junction with the Big Bing Creek North Fork trail take a left to head out back the way you came on the Big PIne Creek Nork Fork Trail.

View towards the Palisades and Temple Crag from Black Lake Trail
View towards the Palisades and Temple Crag from Black Lake Trail

Side Trips in the Big Pine Lakes Area

The Big Pine Lakes areas offers several incredible side trips for hikers with the legs for a big day hike or backpackers looking to spend more time in the area. The hike to the Pallisades Glacier might be one of the best trips in the Sierra Nevada. 

Palisades Glacier
The Palisades Glacier

Pallisades Glacier Trail

4.3 Miles 2000 ft Elevation Gain (Round Trip)

Climbing to an elevation over 12,000 ft, the trip to Palisade Glacier is not for the faint of heart. The journey involves traversing several loose talus fields, navigating rock shelves, occasional scrambling, and significant elevation gain. The effort rewards intrepid hikers with stunning views of the Palisades range and one of the few remaining glaciers in the Sierra Nevada.

About 0.8 miles up the North Fork Big Pine Creek trail from Third lake take the trail to right to begin the climb to the Pallisades Glacier. The trail crosses a small log bridge over the North Fork Big Pine Creek, before starting a series of switchbacks that jog in and out of talus fields and treed sections to negotiate the headwall before Sam Mack meadow. The distance between the start of the Pallisades Glacier trail and Sam Mack Meadow is a mere 0.8 KM, but the 500ft of elevation gain beginning at 10,600ft feels much more strenuous than these numbers imply.  Fortunately, your hard work is quickly rewarded as you clear the headwall and the trail enters Sam Mack Meadow. Situated in a high alpine cirque divided by a braiding creek and rimmed by the mighty Pallisades, the scenery hear is truly remarkable. Continue on the obvious trail to the southwest to explore the meadow further, and catch your breath. This is a great spot to fill your water bottle and treat some water before continuing the ascent. If you’re feeling tired or running short on time this a great to spot to call it day, if you’re ready to continue to the Glacier proceed back to the meadow’s entrance at the northeast where the Pallisades Glacier trail crosses the creek before beginning another steep ascent.  

Depending on water levels and the length of your stride, this water crossing may involve wet feet.  Once you’ve negotiated the creek crossing the trail begins another series of steep switchbacks to clear the headwall to the east of Sam Mack meadow. The trail here is sun exposed with limited shade, but the views down into the Big Pine Lakes basin below are gorgeous. After crossing several talus fields, gaining another 700ft of elevation and hiking for around a mile you’ll reach the end of the defined trail. The views up to this point are spectacular, but the glacier remains hidden from view. 

Keep your eyes open for the series of cairns which mark the approximate direction of the unmaintained trail and use your GPS app/route finding abilities to stay on course. The hiking here is more challenging and and starts by navigating through several hundred meters of loose talus and scree. Step carefully here and watch your holds as there is lots of loose rock. Stay vigilant of falling rocks that may be freed by hikers moving parallel above you! This section is the most intimidating part of the entire hike to the glacier, but it is short and you’ll soon find yourself navigating a much more manageable combination of large talus and smooth glacially carved granite slabs.  This final section of the hike gains over 600ft in 0.6 miles and may take you double the time it took you to get to the start of this section from Sam Mack Meadow (depending on your comfort level in this type of terrain). There are occasional parts of this section that may require four points of contact, but exposure is limited and most determined, patient hikers will have limited problem reaching the end. After all this hard work, you’ll eventually come up on top of terminal moraine of the Pallisades Glacier and be rewarded with incredible views of the glacier, lake, and Palisades range.  Looking left to right you’re rewarded with up close view of 5 of California’s 14,000 ft mountains: Mount Sill, Polemonium Peak, North Palisade, Starlight Peak, and Thunderbolt Peak.  Take a moment or an hour, drink in the thin air, savor the view, and give yourself a pat on the back. When you’ve had your fill of this incredible spot, double back the way you came. 

Sam Mack Meadow on the Palisades Glacier Trail
Sam Mack Meadow on the Palisades Glacier Trail

Summit Lake/More Distant Numbered Lakes

Most backpackers elect to camp at either Second or Third lake, which makes the short hike to visit the other four numbered lakes and Summit lake a worthwhile side trip.  If you’re camping at Third Lake, its a 5 mile round trip with 1500ft of elevation gain to visit the remaining lakes. 

Scrambles and Peakbagging

Multiple scrambles and peak bagging opportunities are available in the Big Pine Lakes area. Cloudripper (13, 524 ft) can be scrambled by following the drainage behind seventh lake to the NE ridge. Two Eagle and Mount Aggassiz (via the Aggassiz Col) are also popular scrambles in the area. For more details on these and other peak bagging opportunities in the area, pick up R.J. Secor’s quintessential guide to the Sierra Nevada, The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, Trails.

Campsites at Big Pine Lakes

Campsites in the Big Pine Lakes Area

There are no designated campsites in the Big Pine Lakes area and all camping is dispersed camping. That means you’ll have to keep your eyes peeled for the perfect spot. Remember to keep the following rules in mind when picking your site:

    • Select a campsite at least 200 feet from water.
    • Camp on a cleared, durable surface with no vegetation. It will often be clear that someone has camped there before.

Tips for Choosing the Best Site

There are so many incredible campsites in the Big Pine Lakes area, that your biggest challenge is quelling the sense of doubt over whether you have found the best one. To find the best site, I always follow the principal that humans resist extra effort and frequently herd together. This means spots in close proximity to the trail and found shortly after a big climb are going to be more crowded than spots that require off trail exploration to access or another push up a big hill.  Many backpackers are so eager to get their heavy pack off that they pick the first spot they see, so if you do a little bit more work you’re likely to be rewarded with fewer people.  Either way, the competitive permit process here does keep the crowds  manageable, even if you’re camping at the more popular spots. I recommend camping at Fifth Lake if you have the energy to make it up there. 

First Lake

First Lake doesn’t get much love. Almost all groups marvel at their introduction to the Big Pine Lakes area, and then immediately press on to the showstopping Second  Lake. For those looking for more solitude, there are likely some under the radar campsites here.  The area surrounding the trail is a low angel slope with limited options, but a little off trail exploration of the northeastern corner may yield several workable campsites that don’t suffer from the popularity of those surrounding Second and Third Lake.  Please note that I didn’t have the opportunity to directly check out this area and this is me speculating based on the look for afar and the topography. So, take this guidance with a grain of salt. The downside of camping here is you’ve selected the lake that is the furthest away from the side trips to the remaining lakes or up to Palisades Glacier.

Second Lake & Third Lake

These two lakes are the most popular spots to camp and for good reason, the views across the lakes to Temple Crag are breathtaking. Camping here saves you the effort of hiking up the additional elevation to the remaining lakes with your full backpacking pack, while keeping the remaining lakes (and the Palisades glacier trail) within easy day hiking distance.

Second Lake has several campsites on the granite bench of the north shore near the trail and if you don’t mind being so close to the trail the views here are terrific. These sites are very popular.  Additional sites may be found by following a small unmaintained trail that traverses above the easter shore and forks to the left shortly after ascending from First Lake and along the flatter western shore. 

Third Lake is another popular spot to camp and multiple well used sites lie in the forested area near the main trail on the northern shore. The scenery at this lake is also beautiful with a different view of Temple Crag, unfortunately the easily accessible spots here tend to be quite close to the trail and lacking privacy. For more solitude, consider exploring the area to the east of Third lake for spots to camp

Fourth Lake

Traveling with a larger group? Fourth lake is the perfect spot for you! Fourth lake offers several great campsites including a very large campsite along the eastern shore. If you’re looking for a site with room for 4 or more tents, and plenty of space for hanging hammocks, this lake is the spot for you.  While Fourth Lake lacks the wide open views of the other lakes, it offers more shelter from the elements. This lake is an extra mile and 500ft of elevation up the trail from Third lake, which helps keep the crowds down. 

Fifth Lake

Fifth lake might be my favorite of the Big Pine Lakes. The views from this lake are spectacular. If you have the time and the hiking legs to make it up here, I’d suggest you camp here. There are a few spots near the trail on the lake’s easter shore. Additionally, a few more secluded spots can be found along the southern and northern shores. The  spots on the north shore reign supreme, but require crossing a tedious talus field and a bit off trail navigation to access. As always, the best sites go to those that put in the work! It’s an extra mile of hiking and 500ft of elevation gain to Fifth Lake from Third Lake. 

Seventh Lake's grassy/marshy perimeter.

Sixth Lake & Seventh Lake

If you’re looking for solitude these are the lakes for you. Backpackers making the extra 2.3 miles climb (1100 ft elevation gain) from Third Lake, will likely be rewarded with these lakes to themselves.  Several well defined campsites lie to the north of Sixth Lake and multiple great options exist along Sixth Lake’s southern shore. Seventh lake is quite marshy, but there are likely a few viable spots to camp north of the lake.  These are great sites for solitude, but the scenery is nicer at many of the earlier lakes.

Summit Lake

This small lake receives limited camper traffic. It’s quite marshy and the views are not spectacular, but there may be one or two decent camping sites to be found.

Black Lake

Black Lake

Black lake is well removed from the numbered lakes in the Big Pine Lakes area, making it a great spot to find a site to yourself. There are several good looking spots to camp near the creek drainage on the eastern shore. The views here are decent, but not as spectacular as many of the numbered Big Pine Lakes. Camping here is a good option for those looking to shorten the hike out, without staying at the busier First-Third Lakes. 

Itinerary Options

Here a few itinerary recommendations for day hiking or backpacking to Big Pine Lakes with a brief discussion of each.

Day Hike

If you’re in the area and couldn’t land a permit or aren’t comfortable/equipped for backpacking. These options are manageable ways to visit the Big Pine Lakes as a day hike. You should be a confident hiker as the Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail gains significant elevation and starts from nearly 8000 ft. 

Note that day hikers can park in the day use parking lot which saves ~0.7 miles of hiking.

Trailhead to Third Lake and back

10.4 mi ROUND TRIP DISTANCE - 2,960 ft ELEVATION GAIM

This is the least strenuous way to visit the Big Pine Lakes area hitting the highlights as a long, but manageable day hike. 

Trailhead to Sixth/Seventh Lake return via Black Lake Trail

14.0 mi ROUND TRIP DISTANACE - 4,110 ft ELEVATION GAIN

Visit every one of the numbered Big Pine Lakes and return via the Black lake trail to make a lollipop loop. 

Trailhead Hike to Pallisades Glacier return via Black Lake Trail

16.4 mi ROUND TRIP DISTANCE - 5,460 ft Elevation Gain

This tough, but spectacular day hike takes you past the first three Big Pine Lakes before climbing to Sam Mack Meadow and up to the Pallisades Glacier. On the way back you can make it a loop by ascending to fourth and fifth lake before descending the Black Lake Trail. If you only have one day in the area and have the conditioning, this is the day hike to do!

Descending the Big Pine North Fork Creek Trail

One Night - lower mileage option

This trip is the most accessible way to explore the Big Pine Lakes area (aside from hitching a mule ride). Hike to Third Lake and then make a decision on whether you’d prefer to camp there or retreat back to Second lake (0.8 miles away). 

Day 1: Trailhead to Third Lake

5.5 mi - 2,790 ft Elevation Gain

Camp: Second or Third Lake

Day 2: Hike Out

5.5 mi - 2,790 ft Elevation Loss

One Night - higher mileage option

If you have the hiking legs for it, I’d really suggest pressing on to camp at Fourth or Fifth Lake to beat the crowds and experience more of this area. These two lakes are very close together (0.3 miles) making it easy to check them both out and decide which one you prefer the look of.  On your second day, you have the option of hiking up to Summit Lake and/or Sixth and Seventh Lake in the morning, before packing up and making the descent down the Black Lake trail to complete the lollipop loop. 

Day 1: Trailhead to Fourth or Fifth Lake

6.5 mi - 3,386 ft Elevation Gain

Camp: Fourth or Fifth Lake

Day 2 (morning): Hike to remaining Lakes

2.5 mi (Round Trip)- 800 ft Elevation gain

Day 2: Hike Out via Black Lake Trail

6.2 mi- 3,340 ft Elevation Loss

Two Night

Two nights in the Big Pine Area is the perfect (long) weekend adventure! The short distances between lakes and the hassle that comes with packing up makes base camping the logical choice here and Fourth or Fifth Lake are the perfect staging grounds for your adventure. These two lakes lie in close proximity (0.3 miles) enabling you to check them both out before deciding on the  best campsite.  On your second day, get an early start and day hike to the Pallisades Glacier. Take the morning of day 3 to make the easy hike to Summit, Sixth and Seventh Lake, before packing up and heading out via the Black Lake Trail. 

Day 1: Trailhead to Fourth or Fifth Lake

6.5 mi - 3,386 ft Elevation Gain

Day 2: Day Hike to Pallisades Glacier

5.3 mi (Round Trip) - 2,254 ft Elevation Gain

Day 3 (morning): Hike to Remaining Lakes

2.5 mi (Round Trip)- 800 ft Elevation gain

Day 3: Hike Out via Black Lake Trail

6.2 mi- 3,340 ft Elevation Loss
Palisades Glacier Trail
The Hike to Palisades Glacier is a must-do!

Three Night

If you’re looking to move at a more relaxed pace or do some scrambling in the area, 3 nights is the way to go. Base camp at Fourth or Fifth Lake. Enjoy a chill day 2, hiking to Summit, Sixth or Seventh Lake in the morning before relaxing lakeside in the afternoon.  For a more strenuous second day, consider bagging Cloudripper, the prominent peak to the Northwest of Seventh Lake (get a copy of The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, Trails for more beta on this). On day 3, hike to the Pallisades Glacier. Pack up on day 4 and exit out via the Black Lake Trail. 

Day 1: Trailhead to Fourth or Fifth Lake

6.5 mi - 3,386 ft Elevation Gain

Day 2 (chill option): Hike to Remaining Lakes

2.5 mi (Round Trip)- 800 ft Elevation gain

Day 2 (strenuous option): Summit Cloudripper

~ 5.2 mi (Round Trip)- ~3000 ft Elevation gain

Day 3: Day Hike To Pallisades Glacier

5.3 mi (Round Trip) - 2,254 ft Elevation Gain

Day 4: Hike Out Via Black Lake Trail

6.2 mi- 3,340 ft Elevation Loss

Packing List Breakdown

Hikes like the Big Pine Creek North Fork trail are more enjoyable the lighter your pack. A lighter backpack helps you cover more mileage and more elevation with less effort which is perfect for a quad burning hike like this.

That said, If you’re new to backpacking, don’t stress out about buying the latest and greatest equipment. Save money and use things you already own that can be repurposed for backpacking, rent gear, or borrow stuff from a well-equipped friend. When you’ve gained more experience, modify your kit and change out gear as you get a better understanding of what is important to you. 

Use the checklist below to click to navigate to my discussion of each individual item. 

Permits & Red Tape

Wilderness permit for Big Pine Creek North Fork Trail

To backpack/overnight in the Big Pine Lakes area, you require a wilderness permit for the Big Pine Creek North Fork trail in Inyo National Forest. Print it, sign it, and bring it along. 

California Campfire Permit

To use a portable stove in Inyo National Forest you require a California Campfire Permit. It takes 10 minutes to get and is free. Take 10 minutes to get yours now, before you forget. 

Emergency Medical Insurance (for non-US persons)

If you’re traveling from outside the US don’t forget to purchase comprehensive travel insurance that includes emergency evacuation. 

Check out World Nomads* for a quote. Hopefully, you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared! I broke my collarbone traveling a few years ago, which hurt enough! I can’t imagine how much worse it would have hurt if I had to pay the $15,000 in medical bills out-of-pocket… 

*We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

Essential Items

Pack too heavy? Hire a mule train!

Tent

I’ve been using the Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2  (view at REI / Backcountry) for several years and it’s a great tent.  It’s semi-freestanding, double walled and weighs in at a mere 2.5 lbs. Unlike many 2-person tents, it doesn’t have a tapered floor and can fit 2 extra wide sleeping pads side-by-side with no overlap. It’s cozy, but workable for two people and palatial for one!  If you can’t find this tent, check out the Nemo Hornet Osmo for a similar, high quality semi-freestanding tent.

If you’re looking for a completely freestanding tent that offers a bit more space and durability, check out the Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 (view at REI / Backcountry)  . It’s unique blend of functionality, livability, weight, and durability earn high praise and Big Agnes’s customer service is outstanding! 

For an incredible ultralight option, check out the single wall Durston X-Mid Pro which weighs in at a mere 20 oz (565g). There’s a reason this tent has developed a serious cult following among ultralighters.

Hiker near Big Pine Creek
I've been told the Gregory Facet is an awesome pack!

Backpack

If you’re  just getting into backpacking, use a large-size backpack with a decent suspension system (and good hipbelt) or borrow one from a friend. This gives you time to decide what features you need and whether or not backpacking (and the gear) is something you want to invest in.  Whatever backpack you use, make sure you have a good fit before by following this guide to backpack sizing.  When I first started backpacking, I used a 60L travel backpack, our Khmer Explorer Travel Set on Canada’s West Coast Trail. While not designed for hiking, it worked great despite my ridiculous overpacking!  

If you’ve begun dialing in your backpacking kit and moving towards a lightweight set-up, check out either the Osprey Exos for men (view at REI/Backcountry) or Gregory’s Facet for women (view at REI / Backcountry). At under 3 lbs these packs are a great compromise between barebones ultralight packs and heavier feature-laden packs.  Their excellent suspension systems prevent the dreaded swampy/sweaty back on hot days.

If you’re looking for the lightest option, check out the Hyperlite 3400 southwest (view at REI Backcountry). It’s 100% waterproof and constructed from ultralight dyneema fabric.  Being ultralight you’ll sacrifice features, so if you hate getting a swampy back (that’s me) you may prefer the Osprey despite the weight penalty. Backpacking gear is always a zero sum game! 

 

Packable Day Hiking Backpack

Planning on spending a few days day hiking or peaking bagging from your base camp? Pack a small packable day pack, like the tried and tested REI Flash 18This type of pack is perfect for carrying your day hiking essentials and lets you leave your bulky, heavy backpacking pack at camp. 

Sleeping mat

I used to have terrible sleeps in the backcountry until I switched to the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir X-lite (view at REI / Backcountry / Thermarest). It’s incredibly lightweight, comfortable, and packs down to the size of a Nalgene bottle. This is probably one of my favorite backpacking items!

Sleeping bag or quilt​

Patagonia’s sleeping bags are 5 star!  I got one on sale several years ago and it has been nothing short of perfect. Weighing only 822 g (29 oz)  it’s lightweight and packs down small!  I found the 30°F / -1°C  to be perfect for most outings – if it gets colder you can always layer up! Like all Patagonia products, it’s not cheap, but they stand behind their gear and the quality matches the price point. If you spend a lot of time in colder environments they also make a 20°F / -7°C version .  These bags are a worthwhile splurge! 

If you’re looking for an even lighter-weight option, consider going for a sleeping bag quilt. Feathered Friends  Flicker UL Quilt Sleeping Bag has won numerous awards and is a stalwart among ultralight backpackers. With a weight starting at  526 g (1 lb 2.5 oz), I can see why!  

For a budget friendly bag that will last you for years, check out these great options from Big Agnes & Nemo Equipment. Bags rated to 30°F / -1°C should be well suited to this trip.

Backpacking pillow

Yes, you can sleep with a pillow not made of bunched up clothes in the backcountry. Check out the Nemo Fillo Elite  (view at REI / Backcountry). It packs down ultra small and provides an unprecedented level of comfort after a long day on the trail. Once you try one you won’t imagine how you lived without!  

Water purification

I love my Steripen. It’s light, portable and only takes minutes to purify a liter of water in a Nalgene. Press the button, place the pen in your bottle, and stir for a couple minutes! Don’t forget to bring tablets as a backup  against technical problems/dead batteries.

Trowel, Toilet Paper & Hand Sanitizer

We had an extensive discussion of pooping in the BIg Pine Lakes area earlier in this post, but don’t forget to. bring your troweldig a cathole a minimum of 6 inches deep and at least (200ft) away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.). Pack out your TP.  

Don’t forget a  small bottle (1 oz) of hand sanitizer.

Swiss army knife

For fixing gear or cutting food, make sure to bring swiss army knife.

Stove & fuel canister

Lightweight, convenient, and reliable, the MSR pocket rocket (view at REI / Backcountry / MSR)  has been my go-to backpacking stove for years. 

Backcountry cookset

The GSI Halulite Microdualist II is a compact, lightweight two-person cookset that can fit an MSR pocket rocket and fuel canister inside. If you’re looking to buy a minimalist stove and cookset the MSR PocketRocket Stove Kit  (view at REI / Backcountry / MSR)  is an all-inclusive solution.

Lighter and matches

A baby bic lighter is all you need. I often bring a small pack of matches wrapped in ziplock bag  for backup or waterproof ones.

Water bottle or reservoir

Nalgene (Check options at Backcountry REI) are the standard hiking bottle.If you’re cutting weight or looking for a way to save a buck, a simple smart water is the go-to for ultralight backpackers.  

Alternatively, a hydration reservoir (view options at REI Backcountryallows you to stay hydrated continuously without stopping to grab and open a bottle. The hoses sometimes leak though and they freeze up during chilly nights.

Water container

Extra water storage bags like the MSR Dromedary or Dromlite (view options at REI / Backcountry MSR ) help make cooking and treating water easier by saving walks repetitive water gathering missions.

First aid kit

A first aid kit is a must for treating blisters, scrapes, and cuts.  The pre-built kits from Adventure Medical Kits (view at REI / BackcountryAdventure Medical Kits) offer many options for party size and trip length.  At the end of your trip, write down any items you used and replace them immediately  so your kit is ready for your next adventure. 

Hiking poles

Trekking poles help with the the big elevation changes on this hike! I resisted getting them for years, but take it from a former skeptic, poles are incredible at reducing the strain of long, grueling descents. Plus they providing extra stability on exposed sections. Do yourself a favor and get a pair of poles. I prefer the poles that fold up into a Z shape for their packability and weight. Leki (view options at REIand Black Diamond (view options at REI) both make excellent options.

Headlamp

The Spot 400 (view at REI / Backcountry) has 6 modes including the night vision saving red light. Red light mode takes a minute to get used to, but once you do it’s a total game changer. Hello stars!!  

GPS, compass & map

Download the GAIA app for maps and gps. I always bring a traditional compass and map as well in the case of technical problems or dead batteries.

Battery Back-up & Charging Cables

Keep your phone charged for photos and gps. One of these Zendure powerbanks  is sufficient for 3-4 day trips. 

Don't forget a Bear Canister

Bear canister’s are bulky and annoying, but they’re easy to use and the best way to keep your food and scented items bear safe. A bear came through our site at Fifth lake and thoroughly played with our canisters before I was able to scare him off. Fortunately, the canisters did their job. 

 BearVault canisters are the most popular as their transparent design allows you what’s packed where.

    • Go with the BV500 (view at REI / Backcountry) for 6-7 day solo trips or 3-4 days for 2 people. 
    • Go with the BV450 (view at REI Backcountryfor 3-4 day solo trips or weekend trips for 2 people.
Putting the Hammock to good use!

Optional Luxury Items

These items are luxuries that add weight, but may be worth for a trip like this where you’re setting up a basecamp for a few nights. 

Hammock

If you’ve never strung up a hammock between two trees deep in the backcountry, you’re missing out! Nothing beats getting horizontal with some great reading material in the pre-dinner hours or taking in an amazing sunset from your own outdoor couch. The ENO Double Nest (view at Backcountry / REI) has room for two and at ½ kg is easy to justify on this trip! Don’t forget the straps are sold separately (view them at Backcountry / REI).

Camp Chair

After a long day on the trail there’s nothing better than finding a nice comfortable spot to rest your weary glutes. The Helinox Chair Zero (view at REI) is a great option and at just over 1lb, it’s light enough to justify bringing on slower/easier backpacking trips where weight isn’t as big of consideration or for trips from an established base camp. 

Clothing & Accessories

Shell jacket

An essential piece for wind, rain, and snow. The Arc’teryx Beta shell (view men’s women’s) is the best all around shell jacket. This shell performs in adverse conditions and is the perfect outer layer for cool Sierra nights or common afternoon thundershowers. Arc’teryx gear is expensive, but impeccably designed. I was skeptical for years, until I purchased a few pieces of their trail running gear and got hooked. If you’re looking for the best reviewed hiking shell out there, this is the one. 

For another excellent option that is more economical,  check out the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L. (view men’s / women’s)

Puff jacket

I’ve had the Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody (view at REI / Backcountry / Patagonia) for years and it works great on it’s own or underneath a shell for extra warmth. It’s a perfect multi-functional item for everyday, backpacking, and pretty much anything where you might need a bit of warmth. I’m still looking for an activity it doesn’t work for. 

Rainpants

Mountain weather changes fast and rain pants can be a lifesaver. I used mine multiple times on this hike when afternoon thundershowers came rolling in. I’ve been happy with the Black Diamond StormLine Rain Pants (view at REI / Backcountry For a budget option check out the REI branded rain pants.

Sun hoodie

When I was backpacking the Grand Canyon a few years back, I was shocked to see throngs of Arizona Trail thru-hikers wearing hoodies in the 100 degree (40 C) heat. Turns out they weren’t lost tech bros in the Grand Canyon, they were onto something! A sun hoodie has been one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking kit. They keep you burn free, are surprisingly cool, and let you get away with leaving the bottle of sunscreen at home (or bringing way less). The Sahara Sun Hoodie from REI is literally the only shirt I wear backpacking now.

Convertible hiking pants

Personally, I like zip-off pants. They’re goofy, some people complain about the zippers, but you don’t know until you try! Try the Patagonia Quandary Convertible Pant (view at REI / Backcountry / Pataognia) and find out for yourself.

For women, check out the non-convertible Gamma Pants by Arc’teryx for a great all around hiking and mountain pant (my wife loves them).

A pair of shorts

In addition to hiking pants, it’s nice to have a pair of shorts to change into after a long day on the trail or as a backup option. Trail running shorts are light and comfortable. 

Base layer top

In addition to a sun hoodie, I also bring one base layer top to change into at camp, wear to sleep or have as an alternate. The Capilene Cool trail (view at REI / Patagonia)  shirt is nice, but pretty much any athletic quick-dry top will work fine. 

Base Layer Bottom

A merino bottom baselayer is perfect for warming up at night or during chilly mornings.

Underwear

These underwear work well for hiking, trail running, mountain biking and skiing. They dry fast and I’ve found them to be more durable than the more expensive ones from lululemon. I usually bring a 2-3 pair depending on trip length.  

Patagonia also makes women’s underwear, but I am unable to advise on fit, form, function, or durability on this front. 

Hiking socks 3 pairs

I pack 3 pairs of socks. 1 pair for hiking, 1 pair to change into at camp, and a reserve to throw into the rotation as needed.  Darn Tough Vermont make the best hiking socks hands down. They’re guaranteed for life/replaced free of charge and they don’t stink. So go ahead and try to get holes in your socks, they’ll give you new ones. 

Hat

A ball cap (view at REI Backcountry) or tilley hat keeps your face protected from the intense mountain sun. 

Beanie

Bring a beanie for variable mountain weather, they’re perfect for chilly mornings or evenings.  

Sunglasses

Don’t forget to pack your favorite pair, the sun gets intense at these elevations! 

Gloves

I bring a thin weatherproof pair of trail running gloves, the Black Diamond Mount Blanc.

Trail runners or hiking boots

Unless you’re hiking in the winter with the potential for snow and cold or you’re carrying the gear for your whole family, I’d choose trail runners for this hike. I’ve had great luck with the both the La Sportiva Bushido II (view at REI / Backcountry) and the Altra Mount Blanc Trail Shoe. The Altra’s are supremely comfortable and my current favorite hiking shoe, but take some time transitioning into them before doing a major hike. These are a zero-drop shoe and diving in headfirst is likely to cause abnormal muscle soreness. 

If you insist on sticking to a hiking boot, consider a lightweight model like the Scarpa Rush.

Camp shoes

Crocs (view at Backcountry REI) are back! Well for backpacking camp shoes they never left… They’re lightweight and ugly as ever. I usually just loosen my trail runners to avoid packing camp shoes, but many backpackers find them to be the perfect camp shoe for resting sore feet after a long day in boots/shoes. 

Low gaiters

Low gaiters can help keep rocks, sand, and snow out of your trail runners and save you the blisters.

Microspikes (Season Dependent)

Kahtoola Microspikes (view at Backcountry / REI) slip effortlessly over your boots and make walking on snow and ice a breeze. If you’re tackling this hike early in the season bring a pair along.

Additional Items to Pack

Sunscreen

The sun is extra intense at these high elevations, so don’t forget sunscreen! If you’ve followed my advice about using a sun hoodie, you won’t need to pack much. I prefer mineral based sunscreen, like this one. Plus they’re small, easy to pack and won’t leak all over your gear. If you need even less, they offer a face stick as well.

SPF lip balm

Burnt and dry lips aren’t fun. Avoid the misery by packing SPF lip balm.

Bug Spray

In early season the bugs can be brutal on this hike, so don’t forget bug spray. I hate how DEET bug repellent feels on your skin and how it easily one leaking bottle can destroy your expensive outdoor gear, use this Picaridin Insect Repellent instead! 

Toothbrush

If you start contemplating cutting down the shaft of your toothbrush handle to shave a few grams of weight off, you’ve now become a maniacal gram counting ultralighter. 

Toothpaste tabs

No need to carry a tube of toothpaste, save weight by counting out the exact number of toothbrushing sessions your hike requires then pack that number of toothpaste tabs

Duct tape

Duct tape isn’t just your dad’s favorite tool, it also works great for gear repairs and blisters! Take some off a big roll and wrap it around a toothpick or buy this small pack.

Food

I try to avoid the pre-packaged, just add boiling water meals to save a few bucks. However, if you’re strapped for time or just getting into backpacking, they do serve a purpose. If you go this route, I’d suggest the meals from GOOD TO-GO, they use fantastic ingredients with no additives or preservatives. 

As another option, head to the grocery store and search for things like lentil rice, ramen, or mac & cheese. Pretty much any item at the grocery store that is dried and requires only boiling water is an easy and less expensive route to go. Always repack this type of food as there is no reason to carry unnecessary packaging/weight on the trail.

If you want to take your backcountry culinary experience to a whole new level, make your own food from scratch. This let’s you control portion sizes. protein content, nutrition, and flavor.  It’s also surprisingly easy with a bit of planning. Pickup this dehydrator and a copy of The Dehydrator Cookbook for Outdoor Adventurers and you’ll be a gourmet backcountry chef in no time! 

How to pack the right amount of food

 

To pack the right amount of food for backpacking pre-planning is critical. These are the steps I follow to get my menu organized before a trip:

    • Create a list with each day you’ll be on the trail as a header. Ex. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday
    • Create sub headers within each day for the following categories: Breakfast, Snack 1, Lunch, Snack 2, Dinner
    • Purchase/make food to fill in every blank on the list and write each item down as you accumulate it. Add a couple extra bars or an extra dinner as buffer for emergencies.
    • Repackage all bulky food. Puncture large air pockets and place items in ziplocks.
    • Lay everything out by day and subcategory in your kitchen, living room, or wherever you have room.  This  serves as a final check against forgetting anything and makes packing easy. 
    • Once you’ve confirmed you have everything, load it into your bear can in reverse chronological order (last day goes in first to the bottom of the can). This helps minimizes digging through your bear can on the trail. 
Fifth Lake in the Big Pine Lakes Area

Final Thoughts

    • The hike up the Big Pine Creek North Fork trail to the Big Pine Lakes is a truly remarkable backpacking trip that provides easy access to some iconic Sierra Nevada scenery.
    • Although the permit is hard to get and this hike is popular, it never seemed overly crowded especially camping at the higher lakes. 
    • Pallisades Glacier trail was a highlight.
    • 2-3 nights is the perfect trip length. 

Questions about hiking the Big Pine Creek North Fork trail? Drop me a line in the comments below and I’ll do what I can to get back to you. Happy trails! 

Balian Beach | Ultimate Guide to Bali’s Hidden Paradise

hidden cove near Balian beach

Balian Beach doesn’t seem real. I thought all the crowd-free, beachfront paradises died a slow and painful death a long time ago. If 6 million people come annually to this tiny island to carve out their own slice of paradise what could possibly be spared from the blight of overtourism? 

The answer, I learned, was Balian Beach. A remote little beach village midway up the island’s west coast with the simple draw of rippable waves and relaxed vibes. 

Ok, it’s not quite the pristine, undeveloped white sand beach of the Bali of the 1950’s, but on one of the world’s most overtouristed islands this little beach town is about the closest thing you’ll find to paradise. This means, no touts, a few warungs, and a maximum of 2 instagram swings!

If this sounds like your style of paradise,  it’s time to read on and see if Balian Beach is  the place for you. However,  I’m warning you now,  the vast majority of you are likely to find Balian too sleepy, the restaurant selection too limited, and the entire place maybe just a little bit boring… However, for the select few that perk up with this disclaimer, Balian Beach might just be the closest thing you find to paradise on an island that too often resembles paradise lost. 

Let’s dive in! 

person walks along Balian Beach in Bali

How to get to Balian Beach?

Balian Beach lies on the west coast of Bali, just off the busy road connecting southern Bali with the ferry to Java.  Likely the least pleasant part of your journey will be enduring the nail biting experience of sharing the road with the plethora of large trucks making the long trek from/to Jakarta. Timing to get here (like many spots on the island) is very traffic dependent, but count on a minimum of: 

    • Ubud to Balian Beach – 2 hours
    • Ngurah Rai Airport to Balian – 2 hours
    • Canggu to Balian Beach – 1 ¼ hours

Grab is your best bet for a quick and easy ride from virtually anywhere on the Island. Even if you have a driver you’ve been using on your trip, check with grab for a quote when planning your trip to Balian Beach to make sure your price is on point. 

If you’re very comfortable driving yourself, take your scooter/motorbike, but as mentioned above this road is likely to be one of the more sketchy ones you’ve been on in Bali. Don’t forget your International drivers permit, as tourists without these are frequently easy pickings for police. 

Where should you stay at Balian Beach?

Balian beach is a small village, not flush with accommodation. There is a collection of homestays, a few small hotels, and some rental villas available. 

Your best bet is to stay at Yama Balian. This gorgeous mini-resort offers a small number of impeccably designed bungalows nestled right along the peaceful Balian river and is an easy five-minute walk to the beach. There is on-site yoga and a delicious little restaurant that offers service to your bungalow balcony. This was one of our best stays in all of Bali! 

If you’re travelling with a family or larger group go for this epic villa.

For a more budget option,  Istana Balian is your best choice. 

hidden cove near Balian beach
Incredible hidden cove and beach!

What are the best things to do at Balian Beach?

If you’re expecting a plethora of activities, restaurants, or nightlife, stop reading this post. This little village is far off the Banana Pancake Trail. If you’re someone who gets bored easily (especially non-surfers), Balian Beach is also not the place for you. 

If you don’t mind shifting down a gear, these are the best things to do in Balian Beach :

Surf

Balian Beach is best known as a surf destination and the vast majority of visitors come here for waves. Balian is a beach/rock break that is formed by the Balian River draining into the ocean and can serve up some epic surf. According to Surfline Balian is described as “not the ultra-perfect green barrels that most surfers come to Bali for, Balian is still a swell magnet, and a place that will have decent surf when everywhere else is flat. ”

Can beginners surf at Balian Beach?

While it is possible for beginners to surf at Balian Beach, it doesn’t have the draw for beginners that Kuta or Canggu do. At Balian, the bottom is rocky and you won’t find myriad board rentals spread out along the beach. That said, if you’re eager to learn, it’s definitely possible to do so here. The lone board board repairman, Roni (see below), offers lessons as well as rentals. How’s that for options! 

The lineup at Balian Beach is well defined, so make sure you brush up on your surf etiquette and know your place if you’re still leveling up from grom status. 

Where to rent a surfboard at Balian Beach?

There are a couple places to rent surfboards in Balian Beach: 

Roni Surf Board – Roni offers a limited selection of rentals, board repair, and guiding/lessons. The one stop shop in Balian, located essentially in the front yard of Roni’s house…. 🤙 

Rama Balian Surf & Coffee Shop – Grab a surfboard and a coffee. This new spot opened after my most recent visit, but has earned great reviews for both their board rentals and coffee.

Can I take surf lessons at Balian Beach?

Yes, Roni, from Roni’s Surf Board the one stop shop for everything surf related in Balian, he also offers lessons to new surfers. 

Are there sharks at Balian Beach?

Balian Beach is one of few places on Bali that has a sharky history.  While these incidents are immeasurably rare, Balian does have a record of a couple bull shark attacks on surfers.  The Balian River empties right by the beach, creating an excellent surf break and often very murky water. During periods of heavy rainfall the water gets even murkier, which has led to a couple incidents of what was likely mistaken identity. During my time in Balian, I spoke with a couple locals wh theorized that heavy rains pushes an abundance of smaller fish down river, which subsequently draws in the sharks in to feed. Following this theory, they proceeded to tell me that they avoid surfing here following heavy rains,  not due to concern for bull sharks, but due to the immense amount of pollution that is washed down the Balian river.  

On the note of Sharks, don't forget this!

Did all this shark talk get you scared?  You should be, but not of sharks! You should be scared of forgetting proper travel insurance. Between surfing or driving on dangerous roads, medical emergencies happen and you need to be prepared! A friend of our was medevaced to Bangkok from Cambodia and spent several weeks in the hospital there to the tune of $750,000. Fortunately, she had travel insurance!

Check out World Nomads*  for a quote. Their coverage includes medical emergencies, luggage & gear and trip cancellation.  Hopefully, you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared.

*We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

Deserted Beach in Bali

Discover miles of deserted beaches

Aside from surfing, the Balian area treats visitors to a couple of Bali’s most unspoiled beaches. If you’re lucky and don’t mind a bit of an adventure, you may even find yourself with miles of beach entirely to yourself. 

Balian Beach

Balian beach itself is a nice stretch of black sand beach enclosed by cliffs farther to the north. The beach is seldom busy and is a nice spot to relax while watching the surfers catch a few waves. It’s the easiest access from the little village of Balian and will likely be your go to if your looking for some quality beach time without too much of an adventure. 

Mejan Beach

North of Balian beach lies one of Bali’s most remarkable sights, miles upon miles of untouched beach. No development, no touts, and on many days, no people. To find this remarkable spot head north and up the hill, passing Deki’s warung and towards the Gajah Mina Beach resort. From here, you’ll follow the coastline on a bit of a hike through several patches of forest until reaching the road from Jalan Batu Mejan and the entrance to this sublime stretch of sand. The beach stretches on for miles without a restaurant, hotel, or tourist in sight. Whether you’re planning an epic run on the beach or looking to lay out for hours with your favorite book, this is likely the closest thing you’ll find to paradise on modern Bali. 

Check out the viewpoint, cove, and bat caves

North of Balian Beach towards the Secret Bay restaurant and Gajah Mina Beach Resort lies a beautiful cove that’s great to explore at low tide. After descending a set of slippery stairs, you’ll find yourself surrounded by incredible cliffs on all sides. This is a gorgeous spot and worth the short walk from Balian Beach. Along the northern set of cliffs lies a series of caves that are bursting with bats. If your eyes don’t notice them, your nose certainly will, the scent of bat guano can be completely overpowering here. 

When you’re done checking out the cove make your way safely back up the slippery stairs and check out the viewpoint from the cliffs above. The view up here is breathtaking, but once again, so is the smell of Bat guano. The viewpoint, cove and caves are a convenient stop on the way to check out Mejan Beach. 

Relax

Aside from surfing and beaching, there isn’t a ton to do in Balian beach. This makes it a perfect place to kick back and relax. Ride some morning waves, settle into a book, sleep the afternoon away at the beach or pool, have a leisurely riverside lunch, or start writing that novel you haven’t gotten around to, whatever relaxation looks like Balian is the place for it. The great thing about Balian is its ultra laid back pace. A younger version of me would have found a place like Balian boring AF, but now the pace here is sublime. 

Nice sunset view from Deki's Warung

Catch the sunset and watch the rippers from Deki’s Warung

Deki’s Warung is a no frills little warung situated just up the hill to the north of the entrance to Balian Beach, that serves up a few traditional eats and cold Bintang. The food is ok, but it’s a stunning view of the surf and sunset that you come here for. Grab a cold brew and watch the sun go down for an epic way to wind down everyday. 

Practice your yoga

Wow! We almost made it through an entire post about Bali post without mentioning the Y word. For better or for worse, Yoga is now synonymous with Bali and Balian beach is no exception!  Sure, it’s not drowning in studios like Ubud, but if you’re looking to work on your practice Balian beach has several great options. 

Yoga at Yama Balian

The charming hotel and my favorite place to stay in Balian Beach, Yama Balian offers daily yoga classes in their cozy riverside shala. This intimate yoga experience is a wonderful way to deepen your practice next to the healing  waters of the Balian river.

Balian Spirit Yoga

Balian Spirit Yoga offers daily classes at 8:30am and 4pm and the teacher Nicky receives glowing reviews. He also offers annual 5-day retreats for those looking to explore their practice further. 

Balian Yoga Retreats

Balian Yoga Retreats offers all inclusive retreats that include yoga, movement and ayurvedic medicine. Retreats are offered in multiple durations up to a week long.

Where to eat at Balian Beach?

Balian Beach isn’t brimming with cushy restaurants, but there are several great spots with qualify offerings of western classics and traditional balinese food. If you’re staying at Balian for more than a day, you’ll likely become a regular at all of them. 

Balian Beach Main Street with Tekor Bali on the left and Casa Balian on the right.

Tekor Bali

Tekor Bali is your stop for traditional Balinese food. The staff at Tekor are wonderful and the flavors don’t disappoint. This is best bang for your buck in Balian.  My wife was thrilled when I treated her to $16USD birthday meal here. Lucky girl! 

Casa Balian Cafe

Directly across from Tekor, Casa Balian Cafe serves up great dishes including the western favorites (pizza and burgers), smoothie bowls, and all the Balinese classics. They also offer a choice of Bali’s craft beers if your palette is getting bored of Bintang.

Pondok Pitaya

In my experience, beachside dining often equates to the worst food. When you have a view, people will come regardless, so you can get away with worse food and service. Unfortunately, Pondok Pitaya lwas no exception to this rule. We went here for beachside appetizers once and never returned. If you’re looking for a nice spot to watch the sunset, head to Deki’s Warung instead.

Yama Balian

For the most romantic setting in Balian, head to the restaurant within the Yama Balian resort. Situated directly adjacent to the Balian river and hotel pool, this restaurant serves up a delicious assortment of fusion options with great plant-based choices as well.

Deki’s Warung

As mentioned prior, Deki’s is great no-frills spot for a sunset beer and some basic food.. 

Final Thoughts on Balian Beach

If you’re looking for a relaxing, low-key beach hideaway that harks back to a Bali of old, Balian beach might just be your perfect slice of paradise. Catch some waves, work on your yoga,  and find your own private peice of beach to waste the day away on. If this kind of spot sounds like a dream, you better hurry, change comes quickly in Bali, so savor this little slice of paradise while it lasts.

Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you click one of the links and make a purchase we’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. Just like the travel backpacks we build, we’re very particular . So any products or services we suggest, we test and use ourselves before making any recommendations or endorsements. 

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Grand Canyon Backpacking | Ultimate Rim to Rim to Rim Guide

North Kaibaba Trail on the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim

Backpacking the Grand Canyon inevitably ends up on every adventurer’s bucket list.  For a backpacker visiting the Grand Canyon for the first time, the 21 mile journey (33.8 km) from the South Rim to the North Rim is the ultimate trip to cut your teeth.   You’ll descend the South Kaibab Trail deep into the Grand Canyon to the Colorado River before climbing a punishing 5700ft (1700m) up the North Kaibab trail to the Grand Canyon’s quieter North Rim.

Perhaps, the only better way to backpack the Grand Canyon for the first time is to do it all over again in reverse  for an epic backpacking trip known as the rim to rim to rim (R2R2R2).  During the late spring, summer and fall when the North Rim is open and shuttles are available, this add-on makes limited sense.  However, when the North Rim shuts down backpacking the Grand Canyon this way is an incredible opportunity to find a level of solitude unimaginable at other times of the year.  If you’re thinking about this trip, dreaming of this trip, or have secured a permit, this epic guide to backpacking the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim was written just for you. So, let’s stop with the formalities and dive right into it! 

There’s tons of detail in this post, so here is a quick, clickable summary of what you’ll find here:

** Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you click one of the links and make a purchase we’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. We’re very particular about products and we only recommend products, services, or accommodation we trust and use ourselves.**

Need to know for backpacking the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim

Days Required: 2 – 7 days
Difficulty: Moderate, but extreme heat and weather can increase difficulty dramatically. 
Distance: 44.5 miles (72 km)
Elevation Gain: 10, 141 ft (3,090 m)
Elevation Loss:  10, 541 ft (3,210 m)
Permit Required: Yes, competitive.
Navigation: Easy, trails are very well marked.
Water Sources: Frequent potable water sources available between May and December.  Large portions of the Bright Angel and North Kaibab trails have access to water for purification year during the rest of the year. South Kaibab trail has no water. 
Food Storage: Provided at designated campsites.
Best Campsite Walked Past or Stayed At: Cottonwood (below the rim), but read section on the ultimate hack for backpacking the rim to rim to rim for a special campsite tip.  

Deer on Bright Angel Trail in the Grand Canyon

Things you'll love about backpacking the rim to rim to rim

    • Remarkable geology and natural scenery that will leave you awestruck at every turn.
    • Incredible trail infrastructure.
    • Established trail with no navigation required. 
    • Readily available potable water via taps at numerous points (seasonal and not on the South Kaibab).
    • Numerous campsites allow for very manageable daily mileage and different itineraries.
    • Opportunity to camp on the seasonally isolated North Rim.

Things you won't love about backpacking the rim to rim to rim

    • The squirrels. Take your eye off your bag for a second and they are in it.
    • The heat can be the most challenging factor.
    • Competitive permit process.
    • Navigating the throngs of day hikers at the beginning (and end).
    • Keeping a constant ear out for trail runners coming in hot. 
    • Busy campsites that are close together with limited privacy. 
    • Did I mention it can get deathly hot?

How many days does it take to backpack the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim?

A backpacking trip of the Grand Canyon’s rim to rim to rim is typically done in 4-7 days.

That said, you’re likely to encounter many ambitious trail runners and a few speed hikers pushing to complete the 44.5 mile (72 km) rim to rim to rim in one very, very long day.

Fortunately, backpacking allows the benefit of time to enjoy the splendor of the Grand Canyon, not to mention some of the best night skies you’ll see in your life. So, less mileage is often more enjoyment. We spent 6 nights on the trail and that was absolutely perfect.  I’m not sure I would’ve wanted to move much faster since we had daily high temperatures approaching 110 Fahrenheit (45 degrees Celsius) on several occasions.

For fit, ultralight backpackers this trip could be done in as little as 2 days, spending 1 night on the North Rim. That said, the heat in the Grand Canyon adds a whole new variable that can force schedule interruptions on even upon the most determined hikers.

How hard is it to backpack the Grand Canyon?

The rim to rim to rim backpacking trip in the Grand Canyon is a deceivingly challenging hike.

On one hand, the corridor trails that make up the R2R2R2 route (South Kaibab, North Kaibab, and Bright Angel) are impeccably maintained, require no navigation skills, campsites feature numerous amenities, and potable water is readily available during many times of the year. 

On the other hand, the Canyon coaxes you into a false sense of security with its upside down mountain topography. You start with the ease of descending and gravity on your side, you finish working against it. You’ll descend 4780 ft (1450 m) from the top of the south rim only to climb 5700ft (1700m) up to the North Rim, before doing it all over again in reverse.

The biggest challenge you may face is the elements. The intense sun and searing heat, lack of shade (especially on the South Kaibab), and lack of water and requirement to haul extra (exacerbated during non-peak season when many taps are shut off) are variables unique to those unfamiliar with desert hiking. The heat can be so intense that you’ll find yourself kneeling with gratitude at the smallest amount of shade and setting your alarm earlier each day in a futile attempt to beat the worst of it. 

During the winter, fall and spring, cold weather is also a major part of the equation. Snow, ice and below freezing temperatures are commonplace higher on the South Rim and the North Rim. 

Ultimately,  backpacking the rim to rim to rim can be tough, but with proper planning and respect for the environmental conditions, most backpackers encounter no issues. 

North Kaibab Trail

How do you get a permit to backpack the Grand Canyon?

Grand Canyon National Park has finally decided to stop using their fax-based reservation system and has moved onto recreation.gov website.

To give yourself the best chance of obtaining a permit, participate in the early access lottery which opens mid-month five months before your intended start date. For example, for permits in May the lottery opens December 16 and closes Jan 1. Typically one day after the lottery closes you’ll be advised if you were successful. If so, you’ll be able to make a reservation during your early access period. It’s advisable to book as early as possible during this early access period to ensure maximum date flexibility. 

Full instructions and the lottery itself can be found here.

Do you need a park entrance pass if you have a backcountry permit for the Grand Canyon?

Yes, you require a park entrance pass even if you have a permit for backpacking the Grand Canyon. The lines to pay entrance fees at the gate can be long, so make sure to purchase your entrance pass in advance to save time. 

America the Beautiful Annual Pass if the best bet if you plan on visiting multiple parks or multiple times within the year of purchasing it. The Grand Canyon charges $35 per vehicle for a 7 day pass, so it doesn’t take many visits to National Parks or federal public lands to pay back the $80 dollar cost of the America the Beautiful Annual Pass

You can also pre-purchase your 7-day entrance fee at recreation.gov if this is the only time you’ll be visiting a National Park this year.

Which direction should you hike?

The rim to rim to rim trail is started from the South Rim, taking either Bright Angel Trail or the South Kaibab trail down before ascending the North Kaibab to the North Rim and then doubling back. The primary reason for this is the seasonal closure of the North Rim that typically begins on the 1st of December until May 15. 

Should you hike the Grand Canyon rim to rim or rim (R2R2R) to rim to rim (R2R)?

When the North Rim is closed to vehicles you’ll only have the option to hike the rim to rim to rim if you wish to complete this hike in its entirety. This provides a couple of advantages. You can camp on deserted North Rim (more on that below) and you will run into fewer and fewer people the further you get from the South Rim. Purely from a solitude perspective, the R2R2R takes the cake while the North Rim is closed to vehicle access.  It will take double the time thought, so this itinerary might not be feasible for everyone. 

During the later spring, summer and fall months when the North Rim is open, I’d gravitate towards doing the R2R as you get no real benefit from the extra days and mileage at this time of year aside from getting to look at the views in reverse, spending more time in the grand canyon, and avoiding a 4-hour shuttle ride.

View from the Bright Angel Trail

Which trails do you hike for the rim to rim to rim?

The most popular and recommended way to backpack (or hike) the R2R2R is to begin your hike by descending the South Kaibab trailhead. After climbing the North Kaibab and returning to Phantom Ranch you’ll be faced with a choice of climbing the South Kaibab or hiking up the Bright Angel Trail. Despite being 2 miles longer, Bright Angel is the wiser choice, especially if there is any kind of heat whatsoever. The South Kaibab is relentlessly exposed with virtually no shade and no opportunity for water. Descending it at the heat of the day on an unexpectedly hot day in April left us completely bagged, I couldn’t have imagined hiking up in these conditions. The smart choice here is to ascend Bright Angel as it provides numerous opportunities for water and shade making the already challenging experience of climbing out of the Grand Canyon significantly more enjoyable. 

When is the best time to hike the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim?

If you can secure a permit, April is the ideal month to hike the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim. The heat typically is not yet in full force (It did get to over 110, so extreme heat is still possible), the likelihood of winter conditions (ice, snow) at the higher elevations is reduced, the days are long, and the North Rim is still closed. Hiking the R2R2R while the North Rim is closed affords a couple key advantages. First, it reduces some of the day hiker traffic descending from the North Rim (although according to the park service only around 10% of visitors to the Grand Canyon visit the North Rim) and most importantly it provides an unprecedented way to obtain some solitude on what is a very busy trail by spending a night camping on the North Rim.

The ultimate rim to rim to rim backpacking hack : Book a night on the North Rim and beat the crowds

I was lucky enough to speak to an informative ranger before requesting our permit who was kind enough to advise me that despite the North Rim being closed, the campground remains open to backcountry travelers venturing from the Grand Canyon’s south side. As long as you’re equipped with warm enough gear for the high elevation of the North Rim, (the daily average low is 32F (0C) in April), this can be an incredible experience. With luck, you’ll have an empty campsite and the opportunity to explore the viewpoints of the North Rim in near isolation. 

Can you have campfires inside the Grand Canyon?

No, ​​fires are prohibited throughout the backcountry in Grand Canyon National Park. 

View from the South Kaibab Trailhead

How do you get to the South Kaibab Trailhead?

After parking your vehicle at the Backcountry Information Lot you’ll hop on the free Hikers’ Express shuttle bus to the South Kaibab trailhead. The hours change depending on the season, but they typically leave as early as possible to ensure hikers beat the heat. Check this page on the Grand Canyon’s site to determine the times the bus departs during your trip dates.

How do you get to the Bright Angel Trailhead?

The Bright Angel Trailhead is only a ¼ mile from the Backcountry Information Lot making a return to your vehicle seamless on completion of your trip. 

Food storage while backpacking the Grand Canyon

Metal food storage containers are provided at each campsite along the corridor trails of the Grand Canyon. If you’re planning an itinerary that includes campsites off the main corridor trails bring something to protect your food, like a ratsack

Squirrels in the Grand Canyon

Along the corridor trails one of the largest annoyances and potential dangers you’re likely to face is the Grand Canyon famous rock squirrels. It’s rumored that they hold the title for most dangerous animal in the Grand Canyon and this becomes immediately obvious after witnessing the behavior of the first squirrel you see. Extra caution is required! Do not leave your bag or clothing unattended and ensure all food is placed inside the metal food storage boxes. Leave your pack open and hanging from the metal bars at each campsite.  Apparently, this allows them to climb inside and take a look around before realizing there is nothing good to eat and thereby preventing them from chewing though your pack to investigate. Be extra aware of the squirrels nearest to the South Rim.  The high volume of day hiker traffic here seems to have further emboldened this cohort, likely due to many people feeding them. If you sit down and pull out a snack, you may look over to realize there is a squirrel uncomfortably close. You’ve been warned. 

How do I have dinner at Phantom Ranch?

In the middle of a long hard day of backpacking it’s only natural to have visions of your favorite dinner pop in and out of your head. Maybe it’s your favorite pizza, steak frites, or marinated tofu delight. Whatever your fancy, you’re usually constrained to dining on some form of dinner that involves adding boiling water to something dry. One benefit that comes with the sometimes diluted wilderness experience around Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch is your ability to treat your hiking buddy (or have them treat you) to a sit down meal at the Phantom Ranch Canteen. You’ll have your choice of steak, stew or vegetarian option at the heart of the Grand Canyon. A great meal and backpack weight savings all at once! Like any good restaurant, reservations are required, so make a booking for dinner well in advance if this is something that tickles your fancy. 

View approaching the top of Bright Angel Trail

Where to stay before hiking or backpacking the Grand Canyon

To ensure an early start and guarantee you catch the Hikers’ Express Shuttle Bus from the Backcountry Information Center it’s most convenient to spend the night before your hike close to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. The best option is to stay inside the park itself which allows for exploration of the rim area and historic district during the day before your hike. These options book up incredibly fast, so make your booking as soon as you’ve secured your permit. 

Best accommodation options inside Grand Canyon National Park

Camp at Mather Campground

The most economical option is to camp at one of the 327 campsites at Mather Campground in Grand Canyon Village. The campsites include all the amenities you’d expect plus flush toilets and potable water throughout the campground. If you’re tenting, Pine Loop is a tent-only area where generators are prohibited. Book a reservation on recreation.gov well in advance to secure a spot. 

Stay at one of the Grand Canyon’s historic lodges

Sometimes nothing beats a comfortable bed before (and after) multiple nights in the tent. Fortunately, the Grand Canyon offers numerous historic lodges to get a good night or two of sleep before heading out on your rim to rim to rim adventure. The majority of these are within easy walking distance of the Canyon Rim. 

El Tovar Hotel is considered to be the crown jewel of Historic National Park Lodges. Constructed in 1905 of local limestone and Oregon Pine, this historical hotel is located directly on the rim of the Grand Canyon. 

Bright Angel Lodge and Cabins – Another historic lodging option at the rim of the Grand Canyon. This lodge was originally constructed as a less expensive option to El Tovar. This National Historic Landmark features 90 rooms ranging from cozy lodge rooms (some with shared, some with private bathrooms) and several historic cabins. For one of a kind accommodation consider a stay at the historic Buckey O’Neill Cabin or Red Horse Cabin. You can find more information on these historic cabins and details on how to book them  here.

Kachina Lodge, Thunderbird Lodge, Yavapai Lodge and Maswik Lodge – These lodging options in Grand Canyon Village are slightly more contemporary than the first 2, but do offer more conventional hotel amenities still within easy access of the Canyon Rim. 

Hotels outside Grand Canyon National Park

If the options in the park are booked up there are several notable options just outside of the park gates in the small village of ​​Tusayan. Only 7 miles (11 km) south of the south rim is a suitable backup option that leaves a very manageable drive for the morning of your departure.The Grand Hotel at the Grand Canyon is most sought after choice here with several other decent chain hotel options available.

Trail sections and descriptions

The three trails that make up the rim to rim to rim of the Grand Canyon are referred to as the Corridor trails. These include the South Kaibab Trail, North Kaibab Trail, and Bright Angel Trail. The most common route for hiking rim to rim to rim is to descend the South Kaibab Trail to the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch. From there you’ll climb the North Kaibab trail to the North Rim before doubling back to Phantom Ranch and taking Bright Angel Trail back to the South Rim. The trail sections are broken down with descriptions in this order, 

Mule train coming up the South Kaibab Trail
If you encounter a mule train, move to the inside of the trail and listen for the mule driver's instructions

South Kaibab Trailhead to Bright Angel Campground

7 miles (11.3 KM)

4780 ft (1450 M) elevation loss

After disembarking from the Hikers’ Express Shuttle bus, take a moment to top up your water supplies (this tap is seasonal and may not be turned on until early May). This is your last chance to do so prior to reaching Phantom Ranch and you have 7 miles of very exposed hiking to get through with almost no shade.  After approaching the Canyon rim and dropping, in it doesn’t take long before you come across a series of switchbacks before traversing the slope in a straight shot until coming up on the sublime vista at the aptly named Ooh Ahh Point. You’re already 800ft  (250m) of descending in with plenty to go!

Hiker looks at the view from Ooh Ahh Point in the Grand Canyon

After Ooh’ing and Ahh’ing for as long as you feel is required, continue along the trail as it descends the ridgeline to Cedar Ridge where toilets (no water) are available to anyone feeling moved by the views… The South Kaibab continues its descent along the ridgeline before skirting around the west side of O’Neill Butte and descending to Skeleton Point. Depending on the season, you’ll likely be ready to de-layer by this point as you notice the substantial increase in temperature as you descend towards the canyon floor. After Skelton Point the trail drops down dramatically via a series of switchbacks which descend 650ft (200 m) of elevation in just over half a mile (1 km) towards the Tonto plateau.  By this section, hiker traffic thins substantially as all but the boldest, fittest or most naive day hikers have turned back.  After completing the switchbacks and continuing your descent at a rapid, but slightly more gradual pace you’ll reach the Tonto Plateau and a small rest stop at the Tipoff. The Tipoff has a shaded pavilion and toilers (no water) and is a terrific spot to have a snack, rehydrate, and embrace the shade before tackling the final leg of the South Kaibab. 

View looking down to the Colorado River on the South Kaibab Trail

The section following Tipoff can feel like a race against time, especially for those hiking in late spring, summer or during an unseasonably hot day.  In 1.5 miles (2.5 KM) from the Tipoff to the fork with River Trail you rapidly descends nearly 1280ft (390 m). Despite the rapid descent, you’ll do so without the major switchbacks you encountered earlier and almost no shade. We hiked during an unseasonably hot day in April where the temperature got to well over100 and this section felt like the most challenging of our entire hike.   The Park Service advises that everyone start hiking well before dawn or in the late afternoon during May to September and advises against being on the trail between 10 am – 3 pm to avoid medical risk and potential need for rescue.  So start early!   After reaching the fork with River trail continue to the right. head through the tunnel and across the Black bridge. 

Black Bridge Over the Colorado River from Boat Beach in the Grand Canyon

After crossing black bridge you’ll pass by Boat Beach ( a nice spot to check out on the Colorado River) before walking for another ½ mile to reach Bright Angel Campground, shade, and most importantly water.  

North Kaibab Trail

Bright Angel Campground to North Kaibab Trailhead or North Rim Campground

14 miles (22.5 KM)

5761 FT (1756 m) Elevation Gain

After leaving Bright Angel Campground and passing through Phantom Ranch the trail meanders alongside Bright Angel creek as the Grand Canyon enters one of its narrowest sections, the Inner Gorge or “the Box”. The hiking here is quite flat and easy, but with dark rock walls and low elevation this section can feel like the parking lot at a Phoenix Target in August, so once again, make sure to start early. 

the box area of the grand canyon

After leaving the Box, the trail remains a gradual incline for the entire 7.2 mi (11.6 km) stretch from Bright Angel to Cottonwood Campground. After negotiating a small hill around 5.5 miles from Bright Angel, you’ll have the option of making a wonderful side trip to the cool oasis of Ribbon Falls. 

This trip is well worth it and can also easily be made as a quick afternoon trip directly from Cottonwood campground, if you’re overnighting there. Going to Cottonwood first adds  a 1.6 miles (2.6 km) each way, but gets off the trail before the heat of the day and helps you secure a better campsite at Cottonwood by getting there early. 

To get to Ribbon Falls follow the path until you hit Bright Angel Creek before crossing and following the fork to the left to lower ribbon falls. If you have the energy, a longer trail (0.9 miles or 1.4 km)  forks right and climbs 330ft (100m) of elevation to the less visited Upper Ribbon Falls,   Note that at time of hiking the bridge to access to this trail was removed and an easy ford of Bright Angel Creek was required to access the trail to both upper and/or lower Ribbon Falls. 

Hiker rests by Ribbon Falls an Oasis in the Grand Canyon
taking in Ribbon Falls

After reaching Cottonwood campsite or overnighting there, you’ll hike for 1.4 miles (2.3KM) gaining about 390 ft (120 m) alongside Bright Angel Creek before crossing a final bridge to reach the Manzanita Rest Area.  Seasonal water taps are available at the Manzanita Rest area.  During the winter and spring months, you’ll a have a final opportunity to fill and treat water by taking the short, ¼ mile side trip to Roaring Springs which lies ⅔ mile (1.1 KM)  up from Manzanita Rest Area. Regardless of your water needs, the short side trip to Roaring springs is worthwhile as it brings you closer to the incredible stream of water that gushes out from the cliff above before making its way down to Bright Angel Creek below. Once you’re filled up and ready to get started, backtrack along Roaring Springs Trail back to the North Kaibab and take a breath. The big ascent is about to get started. 

For the next 1.7 miles (2.8 KM) after the junction with Roaring Springs the trail picks up nearly  1000ft (300 m) of elevation before reaching Redwall bridge. During this section you’ll pass along beautiful sections of trail with sheer cliff faces dropping off to the right hand side. For anyone afraid of heights, this section is the likeliest to potentially test your nerves. Fortunately, the wide trail provides ample room to hug the cliff wall so the exposure never feels truly frightening.  This section of the North Kaibab trail is stunning example of a time when trail construction involved blasting away giant sections of rock to accommodate a hiking trail.

Hiker takes in a view on the North Kaibab Trail

After descending slightly to Redwall Bridge you’ll begin another big uphill slog gaining close to 850ft (260 m) in 0.9 miles (1.4 KM) before reaching Supai Tunnel. Supai Tunnel offers a restroom and a seasonal water tap. At an elevation of 6800 ft (2073 m) you’ll begin to notice a change in both vegetation and temperature with large coniferous trees becoming more prevalent.

Redwall Bridge on the North Kaibab Trail
Supai Tunnel on the North Kaibab Trail

From the Supai tunnel the North Kaibab trail pushes on, snaking its way up another another 850ft (250m) of elevation with a dozen switchbacks over the next mile (1.6km) to the Coconino Overlook. Take a moment to savor the view here, as this is the last panoramic view you’ll get of the Canyon on the North Kaibab Trail. 

After enjoying the view, take a deep breath and crush out the final 0.6 mile (1 km) to the top of the North Kaibab Trailhead. Hopefully, you took a moment to enjoy the view from the Coconino Overlook, as the terminus of the North Kaibab is somewhat anticlimactic with no view to speak of. If time permits, consider the 2 mile (3.2 KM) easy trek to Bright Angel Point for a spectacular view back across the Grand Canyon. During the quiet months that North Rim is closed to vehicle traffic this trip is particularly worthwhile. If you’re fortunate enough to be camping on the North Rim, head west for just under a mile (1.4 KM) of easy walking to the BIker/Hiker section of the North Rim Campground on the far west side adjacent to the rim. After getting your site set up, ditch your big pack and take the 1.6 mile (2.6 KM) trail along the rim’s perimeter to Bright Angel Point. 

Hiker takes in the view from the Coconino Overlook
View from the Coconino Overlook

Return to Bright Angel Campground

14 miles (22.5 KM)​

5761 FT (1756 m) Elevation Loss

Double back the way that you came on the North Kaibab Trail following the same route until you reach Bright Angel Campground. Hopefully, you were able to enjoy a night on the North Rim. 

View down Bright Angel Trail to Indian Garden

Bright Angel Campground to Bright Angel Trailhead

9.5 miles (15.3 km)

4380 ft (1337 m) Elevation Gain

From Bright Angel Campground you’ll have the option to hike out on the South Kaibab Trail or take the recommended route out on Bright Angel Trail (see earlier section for the reasons why). From Bright Angel Campground  take the Silver Bridge to the west across the Colorado River. After crossing the river you’ll hike along sand dunes alongside the Colorado River for around 1.2 miles (1.9 km) until the trail begins its ascent back to the South Rim at the Pipe Creek drainage. At this point you’ll find the River Resthouse, a toilet and a convenient spot to fill up and treat water if you happened to forget to do so before leaving Bright Angel. 

You’ll begin your ascent up the Pipe Creek Drainage after departing the River Resthouse . For the first mile (1.6KM) the trail follows alongside Pipe Creek and picks up about 350ft of elevation (100m). After crossing the creek a final time, you’ll encounter a series of switchbacks called the Devil’ Corkscrew which rapidly gains another 500ft (150 M) of elevation. This section is likely to be one of the most unshaded parts you’ll encounter on Bright Angel Trail, so an early start (or late in the day) is recommended to ensure safe passage here. 

the Devils Corkscrew on Bright Angel Trail

The trail links up with Garden creek about a mile after starting the switchbacks of  Devil’s Corkscrew. From here, it’s a gradually elevated mile (1.6 KM) along the creek gully to Havasupai Gardens Campground.  Just before reaching Havasupai Gardens Campground the trail forks with an option to hike out to Plateau point or gain access to the westbound side of the Tonto Trail. The trip to see the view from Plateau Point (1.4 miles or 2.3 km one-way) is a worthwhile side trip if you have the time. 

After staying the night at Havasupai Gardens or stopping to refill and refuel, it’s time to buckle up for the final push back to the South Rim. Following the Garden Creek drainage the trail gains around 500ft (150 m) in the first mile before rapidly gaining another 330ft (100m) in a series of switchbacks to reach 3 Mile Resthouse.  Fortunately, the rest stop provides ample opportunity to catch your breath before the next big push. By this point of your hike, you’ll notice an increase in the trail traffic as you start to encounter a higher frequency of day hikers coming down from the South Rim. 

Morning light from Havasupai Gardens Campground

When you’re feeling re-energized and ready for more elevation push towards the 1.5 Mile Resthouse 1.5 Miles (2.4 KM) up the trail. Nearly a dozen switchbacks and nearly 1000 ft of elevation gain (300 m) separate you from the final rest stop on your rim to rim to rim journey. As you continue upward, take a look back and see where you’ve come from looking for Havasupai Gardens way down below. After the final rest stop of your adventure summon your legs for the final set of switchbacks that lead you up the last 1.5 miles and 1100 ft (340m) of elevation to the Bright Angel Trailhead.  

Congratulations, you’ve just completed the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim.

Final part of Bright Angel Trail before the SOuth Rim

Campsites in the Grand Canyon on the rim to rim

Along the corridor trails you’re limited to camping in the established campsites which serve as a sufficient place to bunk down with some incredible dark sky views over the canyon walls. The night skies and sublime mesas and canyon walls that adorn every section of the Grand Canyon more than make up for the somewhat lackluster campsites themselves. Many of the sites are close together, with limited privacy. The vast majority of backpackers are respectful of lights out times and quiet time, but bring ear plugs for the one night you inevitably come across a snorer or someone that fails to observe the rules.

Bright Angel Campground

Located near historic Phantom Ranch and near the confluence of Bright Angel Creek and the Colorado River, this is the busiest campground along the Corridor trails. It is also my least favorite. The 30 small campsites are close together with limited privacy, the squirrels are relentless (unquestionably due to the constant prevalence of easy meals) and the cantina, restaurant, and lodging at Phantom Ranch take away slightly from the backpacking/backcountry experience. Not to mention the flush toilets and running water. The entire experience at Bright Angel Campground feels more analogous to car camping than backpacking. All this said, it still has many things to love especially for a one night stay. Bright Angel Creek runs right through it and the cold water is balm to any weary joints and muscles. The site also provides easy access to an incredible beach along the Colorado River that more than makes up for the sleep you’re likely to lose from your neighboring backpacker’s snoring. 

Havasupai Gardens Campground (f.k.a. Indian Gardens)

This is an excellent final night option if you plan on exciting your trip via the Bright Angel Trailhead. The 15 small group sites lie 4.8 miles from the South Rim and about halfway up the Bright Angel Trail making for a relaxed half day hike to exit. The campsites are quite close together with some offering more privacy than others. It’s situated in a beautiful cottonwood grove and adjacent to a small creek. Staying here also provides easy access to add on trips along the Tonto Trail or Plateau point. 

Cottonwood Camground

Camping at Cottonwood is a delight. It’s a smallish campground with 15 sites located 7.2 miles (11.6 km) from Bright Angel Campground on the North Kaibab Trail. This site feels a little more spacious and private than both Indian Garden and Bright Angel and this was definitely my favorite site below the rim. Bright Angel creek bubbles joyfully alongside providing several incredible spots to cool down or soak and relax. Sleeping here was a delight with mesas rising from all around the campground to provide an enchanting silhouettes in contrast to some of the most incredible stars you’ll ever see. Earplugs may still be required, but this site is not even on the same level as Bright Angel. Look for a couple sites on the left as you head toward the North Rim after passing the toilets.  Potable water is seasonal here, so ensure you have a treatment method if traveling between the middle of October and the middle of May. 

tent at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon
Camping at the North RIm - No one around!

North Rim Campground - Winter Camping

As I mentioned before, I believe staying a night on the North Rim is the ultimate hack for hiking the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim. It can be very cold at night with the possibility of waking up to snow. That said, the solitude provided here is unmatched by any of the other campsites on the R2R2R2.  You need to be prepared with proper layers and sleeping gear. We camped here and had the entire place to ourselves which was quite the change from the chaos of Bright Angel Campground. You’ll set up camp in the section near the canyon rim at the west end of the campground about a 1 mile walk from the North Kaibab Trailhead.  The view here is breathtaking! Additionally, you can explore the lookout at Bright Angel Point without another person anywhere in sight. The entire experience of staying here in winter feels almost post-apocalyptic .Ultimately, I believe staying here also makes for a much more enjoyable experience hiking the North Kaibab Trail as it provides an epic conclusion to the day. Otherwise, you’ll reach the trailhead (which has no view) after the big push up and turn around.

Itinerary options for backpacking the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim

There are numerous ways to structure an itinerary for backpacking the Grand Canyon rim rim to rim depending on your desired mileage, your fitness level, and the weather conditions/season. When planning your itinerary, note that both Havasupai Gardens Campground and Bright Angel Campground offer several great options for day hiking off the main corridor trails which may make them worthy of an extra night’s stay! Simply add another night or 2 to these campsites on your permit request. These base camp stops get you day hiking off the highly trafficked corridor trails, not to mention the reprieve of lightening your load for a day of exploration. 

Remember when planning your itinerary, it’s critical to recognize that the Grand Canyon is a place of extremes where both heat and snow/ice can impact trip feasibility. On our trek through the Grand Canyon at the end of April we watched our daily wakeup time increase to a nadir of 3:00 am in a futile effort to bike before the heat during an unseasonably warm spell. Best be prepared for the unexpected. 

With this in mind, let’s take a look at a few options:

hikere near Havasupai Gardens Campground

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 2 days 1 night

    • Day 1 : South Rim to North Rim Campground via South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trails
      • 21 miles (33.8 KM)  (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 5761 ft (1750 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780 ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2: North Rim Campground to South Rim via North Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails
      •  23.5 miles (37.8 km)  (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4380 ft (1337 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1750 m)
 

Itinerary notes

This is an extreme itinerary that is not to be taken lightly and is only recommended for experienced backpackers and thru hikers that have experience with pushing 25+ mile days.  This length of mileage is challenging backpacking anywhere, but the climate and environment of the Grand Canyon may at times make these distances impossible, completely unenjoyable, and often dangerous.  In the late fall, winter and early spring, snow and ice cannot be ruled out and may dramatically slow down your pace. In the spring or fall, unseasonal temperatures have the potential to make the Grand Canyon dangerously hot, making hiking during mid-day hours nearly impossible. If you’re thinking about taking this on, recognize that you may be forced to spend a significant part of your trek hiking in the dark and know your limits. Less is often more in the Grand Canyon, but if you’re limited on time and have the experience and conditioning, this might be the itinerary for you. 

View looking down to Havasupai Gardens Campground

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 3 days 2 night

    • Day 1 : South Rim to Cottonwood Campground via South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trail
      • 14.2 miles (22.9KM)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600ft  (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780 ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Trailhead and then Back to Bright Angel Campground
      • 20.8 miles (33.4 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4160 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5760 ft (1756m)
    • Day 3 Bright Angel Campground to South Rim via Bright Angel
      • 9.5 mi (15.3 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4380 ft (1337 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible

Itinerary notes​

Completing a R2R2R backpacking trip in 3 days is no small feat with several tough days and one seriously long day. Similar to the sprint of doing it in 1 night, this trip is only recommended for individuals very comfortable with their backpacking abilities and some knowledge of the conditions/extremes one is likely to encounter here. The first day provides for an early morning descent down the South Kaibab and the opportunity to take some time to cool down and wait out the heat (as applicable) in the Phantom Ranch Area. In the later afternoon or on cooler days, the section between Phantom Ranch and Cottonwood is smooth sailing. Day 2 is the most challenging, requiring an early departure from Cottonwood on days where heat may be a factor. The final day features shorter mileage with significant elevation gain made manageable by the availability of water and shade along the Bright Angel Trail. The downside of this itinerary is the lack of time it affords to experience or camp at the North Rim. Additionally, I found Havasupai Gardens Campground to be nicer than Bright Angel, but this itinerary makes camping here for the last night logistically awkward. Or maybe it’s just a good excuse to get a dinner reservation at Phantom Ranch for your last night in the Grand Canyon.

Hiker on the North Kaibab Trail

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 4 days 3 nights

    • Day 1: South Rim to Cottonwood Campground via South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trail
      • 14.2 miles (22.9KM)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600ft  (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780 ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM)  (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to North Rim Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4161 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 3 North Rim Campground to Bright Angel Campground
      • 14 mi (22.5 km)  (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1756 m)
    • Day 4 Bright Angel Campground to South Rim via Bright Angel
      • 9.5 mi (15.3 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4380 ft (1337 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible 

Itinerary notes​

Completing the rim to rim to rim in 4 days and 3 nights is likely the choice for you if you seriously considered doing it in 2 days, but really wanted the opportunity to stay a night on the North Rim. This itinerary groups heavy mileage with heavy descending and low mileage with ascending. The only downside here is the requirement to stay at Bright Angel on the last night vs the nice Havasupai Gardens Campground. That said, get a dinner reservation at Phantom Ranch and it might be the perfect way to spend your last evening in the Grand Canyon. 

The North Kaibab Trail near the Box area

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 5 days 4 nights

    • Day 1: South Rim to Cottonwood Campground via South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trail
      • 14.2 miles (22.9KM)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600ft  (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780 ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) to North Kaibab Trailhead (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4161 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 3 North Rim Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1756 m)
    • Day 4 Cottonwood Campground to Havasupai Garden Campground (North Kaibab Trail & Bright Angel
      • 7.2 mi (11.6 km) + 4.7 mi (7.6 km) = 11.9 mi (19.2 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1320 ft (400 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 1600 ft (480 m)
    • Day 5 Havasupai Garden to South Rim via Bright Angel Trail
      • 4.8 mi (7.7 km) 
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 3060 ft (930 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible 

Itinerary notes​

This might just be the perfect itinerary for hiking the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim. The daily mileage is manageable with one long day that is primarily descending.  Additionally, you’ll avoid staying at my least favorite campground (Bright Angel), and have plenty of time to take in the splendor of the Grand Canyon. ’d likely choose this route, if I were to do this trip over again. The biggest consideration you’ll  here is ensuring you get a very early start on day 1. If you don’t start early enough and the heat becomes unbearable, you may be forced to pitstop for a couple hours at Phantom Ranch between 10 am – 3 pm. The same goes for Day 4 when you’ll hike from Cottonwood to Havasupai Garden.

View from the North Rim

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 6 days 5 nights

    • Day 1: South Rim to Bright Angel Campground via South Kaibab Trail
      •  7.0 mi (11.3 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Bright Angel Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      •  7.2 mi (11.6 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600 ft (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 3 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) to North Kaibab Trailhead (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4161 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 4 North Rim Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1756 m)
    • Day 5 Cottonwood Campground to Havasupai Garden Campground (North Kaibab Trail & Bright Angel)
      • 11.9 mi (19.2 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1320 ft (400 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 1600 ft (480 m)
    • Day 6 Havasupai Garden to South Rim via Bright Angel Trail
      • 4.8 mi (7.7 km) 
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 3060 ft (930 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible

Itinerary notes​

Daily mileage is very manageable and affords the ability to avoid hiking during hot temperatures if you encounter them. This was the itinerary that we hiked on our rim to rim to rim trek. In ideal hiking conditions it may have felt a little relaxed, but with unseasonal temperatures well over 100F, we were happy to have the time.  We’d start hiking shortly before sunrise and finish many days before 11am.  Day 2 will be short with limited elevation gain, but this provides the option of setting up camp and then using the afternoon to hike to and relax at nearby Ribbon Falls. 

View to Bright Angel Campground from the South Kaibab Trail

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 7 days 6 nights

    • Day 1: South Rim to Bright Angel Campground via South Kaibab Trail
      •  7.0 mi (11.3 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Bright Angel Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      •  7.2 mi (11.6 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600 ft (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 3 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) to North Kaibab Trailhead (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4161 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 4 North Rim Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1756 m)
    • Day 5 Cottonwood Campground to Bright Angel Campground
      • 7.2 mi (11.6 km) 
      • Approximate Elevation Gain negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 1600 ft (480 m)
    • Day 6 Bright Angel Campground to Havasupai Garden Campground
      • 4.7 mi (7.6 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1320 ft (400 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible
    • Day 6 Havasupai Garden to South Rim via Bright Angel Trail
      • 4.8 mi (7.7 km) 
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 3060 ft (930 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible

Itinerary notes​

This option is like the 6 day option, but splits the trek up between Cottonwood and Havasupai Gardens. Doing it this way allows you to conquer the hottest part of your ascent up the South Rim first thing in the morning and takes significant mileage and elevation off your final day’s trek out. 

tent at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon
My old Marmot Catalyst tent 3P camping at the North Rim

What to pack for backpacking the Grand Canyon

The lighter your pack, the more enjoyable your backpacking trip in the Grand Canyon is going to be. A lighter backpack helps you cover more mileage and more elevation with way less effort making big days more realistic, not to mention more comfortable!

If you’re new to backpacking, don’t stress out about buying the latest and greatest equipment. Save money and use things you already own that can be repurposed for backpacking, rent gear or borrow stuff from a gear-head buddy. Later, when you’ve gained more experience, modify your kit and change out gear as you get a better understanding of what creature comforts you can and can’t live without. 

Here’s a complete list of gear to pack for backpacking the Grand Canyon. Click any item below to jump ahead in the post for a detailed recommendation. 

Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 Tent in Sequoia National Park at Rae Lakes
This doesn't look like the Grand Canyon! I wish I had this tent for the Grand Canyon though! My Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 at Rae Lakes in Sequoia National Park.

Best tent for backpacking the Grand Canyon

I upgraded to Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 since backpacking the R2R2R2 and it’s been great, that’s it above at Rae Lakes in Sequoia National Park. It’s the perfect tent for backpacking the Grand Canyon as it’s semi-freestanding, double walled and weighs in at a mere 2.5 lbs. Unlike many 2-person tents, it doesn’t have a tapered floor and is able to fit 2 extra wide sleeping pads side-by-side with no overlap,  a rarity in this class of tent! It’s cozy for two, but palatial for one!  

If you’re looking for a completely freestanding tent that doesn’t need to be staked out to stand, check out the Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2. It’s unique blend of functionality, livability, weight, and durability earn high praise and Big Agnes’s customer service is outstanding!  

For an incredible ultralight option, check out the single wall Durston X-Mid Pro which weighs in at a mere 20 oz (565g). There’s a reason this tent has developed a serious cult following among ultralighters. 

osprey exos backpack
Using the Osprey Exos in Zion National Park

Best backpack for backpacking the Grand Canyon

If you’re just getting into backpacking, there is nothing wrong with using a large-size backpack with a decent suspension system (and good hipbelt) or borrowing one from a friend. Going this route gives you time to decide what features you need and whether or not backpacking (and the gear) is something you want to invest in.  Whatever backpack you use, make sure you have a good fit before by following this guide to backpack sizing.  When I first started backpacking, I used a 60L travel backpack, our Khmer Explorer Travel Set on Canada’s West Coast Trail.  While not designed for hiking, it worked great despite my ridiculous overpacking!  

If you’ve begun dialing in your backpacking kit and moving towards a lightweight set-up, check out either the Osprey Exos or Woman’s Eja. At under 3 lbs these packs provides a great compromise between barebones ultralight packs and the heavier feature-laden packs.  Their excellent suspension systems prevent the dreaded swampy/sweaty back on hot days. That’s my Exos hiking the Narrows in Zion in the photo above. 

Learn more about the Exos and Eja:

For a similar option that checks in even a little bit lighter in weight, check out the Gregory Focal and Facet (women’s) lineup:

If you’re an extreme gram counter, you might like the Hyperlite 3400 southwest. It’s 100% waterproof and constructed from ultralight dyneema fabric.  Being ultralight you’ll sacrifice features, so if you hate getting a swampy back (that’s me) you may prefer the Osprey or Gregory despite the weight penalty. Backpacking gear is always a zero sum game! 

Check the price of the Hyperlite 3400 southwest:

Sleeping mat

I used to have terrible sleeps in the backcountry until I switched to the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir X-lite. It’s incredibly lightweight, comfortable, and packs down to the size of a Nalgene bottle. This is probably one of my favorite backpacking items! Get one. You won’t regret it. Sleep well! 

Patagonia Sleeping Bag in a tent

Sleeping bag or quilt

My Patagonia Sleeping Bag kept me nice and toasty on the North Rim. Plus at only 822 g (29 oz)  it’s lightweight and packs down small!  I found the 30°F / -1°C  to be perfect for most outings – if it gets colder you can always layer up! Like all Patagonia products, it’s not cheap, but they stand behind their gear and the quality matches the price point. If you spend a lot of time in colder environments they also make a 20°F / -7°C version .  These bags are a worthwhile splurge! 

If you’re looking for an even lighter-weight option, consider going for a sleeping bag quilt. Feathered Friends  Flicker UL Quilt Sleeping Bag has won numerous awards and is a stalwart among ultralight backpackers. With a weight starting at  526g (1 lb 2.5 oz), I can see why! 

Backpacking pillow

Yes, you can sleep with a pillow not made of bunched up clothes in the backcountry. Check out the Nemo Fillo Elite. It packs down ultra small and provides a new level of comfort after long days on the trail. Once you try one you won’t imagine how you lived without! 

Water purification

Outside of the summer months you’ll need to bring something to purify your drinking water.  I love the Steripen. It’s light, portable and only takes minutes to purify a liter of water using only UV light. Press the button, place the pen in your bottle, and stir for a couple minutes it’s that easy!  

Make sure to bring tablets as a backup though should you run into any technical problems/dead battery with your Steripen.

Trowel & toilet Paper

The rim to rim to rim offers a number of toilet facilities along the way and you should do everything you can to make use of them and avoid the alternative! That said, it’s always a good idea to pack a trowel just incase nature urgently calls at an unexpected time. Follow minimum impact camping principles and be sure to go at least (650 ft) 200m away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.), dig your cathole at least 6 inches deep, and pack tp out. 

Swiss army knife

For fixing gear or cutting food, make sure to bring swiss army knife.

Stove & fuel canister

Lightweight, convenient, and reliable, the MSR pocket rocket  has been my go-to backpacking stove for years. 

Lighter and matches

A little baby bic lighter is all you need. I often bring a small pack of matches wrapped in ziplock bag as well for backup or you could bring a small pack of waterproof ones.

Backcountry cookset

I love the GSI Halulite Microdualist II , two-person cookset. It’s lightweight and I can fit my MSR pocket rocket and a fuel canister inside.

If you’re looking to buy a minimalist stove and cookset check out the MSR PocketRocket Stove Kit  for an all-inclusive solution. 

Water bottle or reservoir

Nalgene are always a backcountry favorite. Check prices at Backcountry /REIIf you’re cutting weight or looking for a way to save a buck, a simple smart water is the go-to for ultralight backpackers.  

Alternatively, a hydration reservoir allows you to stay hydrated continuously without stopping to grab and open a bottle. 

Water storage container

Extra water capacity is important for safety on your hike of the rim to rim to rim. So make sure to bring a MSR DromLite Bag  or Dromedary for additional water storage.  They are also convenient to have around camp for cooking and cleaning up. 

First aid kit

From blisters, to scrapes, and cuts, a first aid kit is an essential item to have.  The pre-built kits from Adventure Medical Kits offer varying sizes for party size and trip length.  At the end of your trip write down any items you used and replace them right away so your kit is ready for your next adventure. 

trekking poles in the Grand Canyon
Using the Leki MCT Vario poles in the Grand Canyon

Trekking poles

The huge elevation gains and losses in the Grand Canyon make trekking poles an essential item in your kit!  I resisted getting them for years, but take it from a former skeptic, poles are incredible at reducing the strain of long, grueling descents and providing extra stability on exposed sections.  Leki makes some the best trekking poles on the market, I bought the Leki Micro Vario before doing the R2R2R and just look at how much fun I’m having with them in the photo above. If you’re looking for a premium hiking pole check out the new version, the MCT Vario. 

Headlamp with red light mode

The Grand Canyon is an International Dark Sky Park (IDSP) and you’re likely to encounter some of the most beautiful night skies you’ve ever seen. You’re also going to see numerous signs asking you to use the red light mode on your headlamp to preserve yours and others night vision. 

The Black Diamond Spot 350 is the way to go with 6 modes including the night vision saving red light! Red light mode takes a minute to get used to, but once you do it’s a total game changer trust me! Hello stars!!  

GPS, compass and map

The rim to rim to rim trail is extremely well marked and easy to navigate, but make sure to download the GAIA app for maps and gps. Additionally, I always bring a traditional compass and map for use in the case of technical problems or dead batteries.

Battery back-up and charging cable

Keep your phone charged for photos and gps. View options at REI.

Hammock at the North Rim Campground at the Grand Canyon

Luxury items to pack for backpacking the grand canyon

Should you pack a camp chair?

No need to bring a backpacking chair on the corridor trails as picnic tables are provided at every established campsite. Hello luxury!

If you’re heading to a more remote site and this item makes your weight cut, check out the Helinox Chair Zero.  At just over 1lb and is light enough to justify bringing on slower/easier backpacking trips where weight isn’t as big of consideration.

A hammock

A hammock can be the ultimate luxury item  or even a replacement to sleeping in a tent. Unfortunately, the Grand Canyon is hit and miss with spots to string one up.  Havasupai Gardens has a couple man-made options for hanging a hammock and it’s possible and allowed on the North RIm.  However, you are not allowed to use trees at Bright Angel or any of the other sites below the rim. 

If it’s worth it to get horizontal with some great reading material in the pre-dinner hours or take in an amazing sunset from your own outdoor couch, the ENO Double Nest has room for two and at ½ kg  it’s hardly even a splurge in weight to pack.  

P.S. don’t forget the straps are sold separately (view them at Backcountry / REI).

What to wear in the Grand Canyon

Staying sunsafe with the Sahara Sun Hoodie in Zion National Park

Sun hoodie - the best clothing item to pack for the Grand Canyon

When I did this hike a few years ago, I was shocked to see throngs of Arizona Trail thru-hikers wearing hoodies in the 100 degree (40 C) heat. Turns out they were onto something! A sun hoodie has been one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking kit. They keep you burn free, are surprisingly cool, and let you get away with leaving the bottle of sunscreen at home (or bringing way less). The Sahara Sun Hoodie from REI is one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking wardrobe and you can’t beat the price. 

Convertible hiking pants

I never thought I’d see the day I embraced the zip-off. But they really are the best of both worlds and can’t be beat for quickly changing Grand Canyon conditions and keeping warm in the evening  during the non-summer months when the temperature drops. Check out the Patagonia Quandary Pant.

They are also available in a women’s version. 

Should you hike in shorts or pants?
Should you wear shorts or leggings in the Grand Canyon?

Regardless of the season you’ll almost certainly get hotter as you descend. During many months of the year, that may mean going from near freezing temperatures to heat stroke temperatures all in the matter of hours. As we descended the South Kaibab Trail, a ranger took one look at my wife’s black leggings and said “You’re going to regret those”. Sure enough, an hour later she was making a trail side outfit change. To avoid this situation, just remember layers are key. If you have convertible hiking pants, wear those. If not, wear a pair of shorts underneath a pair of hiking pants. Layering makes it easy to adjust your temperature depending on the environment and how much you’re exerting yourself.

A pair of shorts

In addition to hiking pants, it’s nice to have a pair of shorts to change into after a long day on the trail or as a backup option. Trail running shorts are light and comfortable. 

Shell jacket

An essential piece for wind, rain, and snow. The Arc’teryx Beta shell is the best all around shell jacket. While you’re unlikely to encounter much rain here this shell performs in all adverse conditions and is the perfect outer layer for the North Rim. Arc’teryx gear is expensive, but impeccably designed. I was skeptical for years, until I purchased a few pieces of their trail running gear and got hooked. If you’re looking for the best reviewed hiking shell out there this is the one. 

For another excellent option that is more economical,  check out the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L. 

Staying warm in my puffy on a cold morning in the Canadian Rockies

Puff jacket

I’ve had the Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody for years and it works great on it’s own or underneath a shell for extra warmth. It’s a perfect multi-functional item for everyday, backpacking, and pretty much anything where you might need a bit of warmth. I’m still looking for an activity it doesn’t work for. This item likely won’t be needed in the summer months, but is ideal for cold nights on the North RIm.

Base layer top

In addition to a sun hoodie, I also bring one base layer top to change into after hiking or have as an alternate. The  Capilene Cool trail  t-shirts work great for me on long hikes and trail runs, but pretty much any athletic quick-dry top will work fine. 

Base layer bottom

A merino bottom baselayer is perfect for warming up at night or during chilly mornings especially during the non-summer months.

Underwear

I’ve had the best luck with these Patagonia underwear for hiking, trail running, mountain biking and skiing and found them to be more durable than the more expensive ones from lululemon. I usually bring a 2-3 pair depending on trip length. 

They also make women’s underwear, but I am unable to advise on fit, form, function, or durability on this front. Check them out for yourself at Backcountry/Patagonia.

Hiking socks 3 pairs

I typically bring 3 pairs of socks. 1 pair for hiking, 1 pair to change into at camp, and a reserve to throw into the rotation as needed.  Darn Tough Vermont makes the best hiking socks hands down. They’re guaranteed for life/replaced free of charge and they don’t stink. So go ahead and try to get holes in your socks. Really! 

Sun hat & warm hat (seasonal)

A ball cap or tilley hat keeps your face protected from the sun. Check out these options at REI / Patagonia/Backcountry

 For colder months, bring a winter hat or beanie to warm up during chilly mornings or evenings. 

Buff

This little item was super helpful on the rim to rim to rim.  It helped block sun exposure on my head and neck and worked great to cool down with by soaking it at every creek or water stop. 

Sunglasses

Don’t forget to pack your favorite pair

Gloves

I bring a thin weatherproof pair if you’re camping on the North Rim. 

Trail runners or hiking boots

Unless you’re hiking in the winter with the potential for snow and cold or you’re carrying the gear for your whole family, I’d choose trail runners for this hike. I’ve had great luck with the La Sportiva Bushido II.

The Altra Lone Peak are also a thru-hiker favorite and award winning trail shoe! 

I do have a larger more traditional hiking boot, the Scarpa Kailash that I occasionally use when I’m carrying more gear/weight or heading somewhere with lots of snow. I actually wore these on this hike as I didn’t have my pack weight nearly as dialed as do now. I prefer trail runners now, but these are still a great boot. 

Camp shoes

Crocs are back! Well for backpacking camp shoes they never left… They’re lightweight and ugly as ever. Many backpackers find them to be the perfect camp shoe for resting sore feat after a long day in boots/shoes. 

Personally, I still hate them. I have an old pair of Tom’s which I occasionally bring. They are light and less bulky than Crocs. If I’m wearing a trail runner, I’ll often ditch the camp shoe altogether and just loosen my laces. Your call!  

Additional items to pack for backpacking the Grand Canyon

Microspikes (season dependent)

Kahtoola Microspikes slip effortlessly over your boots and make walking on snow and ice a breeze. If you’re tackling this hike when snow and ice are possible, bring these! 

Low trail running gaiter (optional)

Low gaiters can be helpful for keeping rocks, sand, and snow out of your trail runners and saving you from blisters.

Duct tape (repairs and blisters)

Tooth brush & toothpaste

Food for backpacking the Grand Canyon

Everyone has different takes and caloric requirements, diets, and preferences so I won’t tell you exactly what to bring. I generally try to avoid/limit the just-add-water meals you find at REI . They’re overpriced and often don’t rehydrate as well as you’d like.  I usually head to the grocery store and search for things like lentil rice, ramen, or plant-based mac & cheese. They’re basically just add water/boil quickly meals and way cheaper. Always re-bag/re-pack this type of food, as there is no reason to carry unnecessary packaging on the trail. If you’re looking for convenience consider Patagonia Provisions soups and chilis. I’ve found them to be a better bet than the other just add water options. 

If you're coming from outside the US, don't forget this!

If you’re traveling from outside the US don’t forget to purchase comprehensive travel insurance that includes emergency evacuation. Check out World Nomads* for a quote. Hopefully, you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared! I broke my collarbone traveling a few years ago, which hurt enough! I can’t imagine how much worse it would have hurt if I had to pay the $15,000 in medical bills out-of-pocket… 

*We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

Final thoughts on backpacking the Grand Canyon

    • Terrific first backpacking trip to the Grand Canyon that provides a great introduction to the nuances of backpacking here, not to mention the incredible scenery. 
    • First and last sections felt busy with day hikers from the South Rim.
    • The heat was unbearable at times and felt like the biggest obstacle to overcome, much more so than elevation gain. 
    • Would avoid staying at Bright Angel Campground if possible due to congestion. 
    • Would take the earliest possible Hikers Express on day 1. South Kaibab trail is much more enjoyable this way. 
    • Would love to camp at the North Rim again while it’s closed to vehicle traffic. 

Your Thoughts on backpacking the Grand Canyon

Have you backpacked the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim? I’d love to hear from you. Questions about backpacking the rim to rim to rim? Drop me a line in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help! 

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