Rockwall Trail | The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the Rockwall

View along the Rockwall Trail towards Floe Lake.

The Rockwall Trail is one of the Canadian Rockies’ premier backpacking trips. For 55km you’ll be treated to a seemingly unending supply of sublime Rocky Mountain scenery. You’ll camp near glacier-clad Floe Lake, hear the torrent of water crashing down from 300m+ high Helmet Falls, and be left awestruck by the Rockwall itself, an incredible expanse of 1000ft cliffs arranged almost unbroken for 30km.

Traversing three high passes in Kootenay National Park, the Rockwall delivers over 2,500 m meters of quad-burning elevation gain and over that amount of knee-crunching descent. Fortunately, five established campsites make daily mileage manageable for backpackers looking to space the hike out over a longer period of time. 

Your biggest challenge in backpacking the Rockwall is likely to be obtaining a permit and finding a way to escape the crowds on this popular hike.  Fortunately, you’ve come to the right spot!  This comprehensive guide was built on my own experience hiking the Rockwall and includes multiple itinerary options for planning your own adventure. I also reveal how I managed to hike the first 40 km without crossing paths with another hiker, while snagging a permit only days before starting my hike. 

So without further ado, let’s dive in.

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Need to Know for Hiking the Rockwall Trail

Days Required: 2-5
Difficulty: Moderate
Distance: 54 km (34 miles)
Elevation Gain: 2,500 m ( 8, 000 ft)
Elevation Loss: 2,600 m (8, 500 ft)
Permit Required: Yes, campsites must be booked and book up fast
Designated Campsites: Yes
Navigation: Easy, well marked and maintained trail
Food Storage: Provided bear boxes
Best Campsite: Floe Lake
Worst Campsite: Helmet/Ochre Junction

Patrol Cabin on the Rockwall Trail near Helmet Falls

Things You’ll Love About This Hike

    • Sublime Rocky Mountain scenery.
    • Established campsites with bear lockers (no need to carry a bear canister), tent pads, outhouses, and tables for cooking/eating.
    • Numerous campsites allow for flexibility on trip duration and daily mileage.
    • Chance to see Rocky Mountain mega fauna (moose, grizzly bears, and mountain goats).

Things You Won’t Love About This Hike

    • Lack of solitude during peak season with large campsites.
    • Competitive permit process that requires advance trip planning during peak season.
    • 13 km shuttle required between the starting trailhead and ending trailhead.
    • Most campsites lack dynamic views from the tent pads.

What to Pack for Backpacking the Rockwall

Here’s a quick summary of what to pack for backpacking the Rockwall Trail. You’ll find a detailed breakdown of each item at the end of the post with rational, alternatives and quick links to check prices.

Don’t Forget

Essential Items

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Clothing and Accessories 

Additional Items

Luxury Items (very optional)

How to Get a Permit for the Rockwall trail

Trekking the Rockwall Trail is such a memorable backpacking trip that your biggest challenge is likely to be securing the right to do it. Reservations for many dates/campsites along the Rockwall book up days after Parks Canada opens the reservation system (usually at the end of January) and no permits are allocated for walk-ups. If you’re planning on doing this trek during peak season, set a reminder and plan ahead to avoid missing out.

To get a permit for the Rockwall Trail you can either call Parks Canada at 1-877-737-3783 or use the online system for Kootenay National Park.

You must start by selecting your starting trailhead, either:

    • Paint Pots Trailhead – if heading North to South
    • Floe Lake Trailhead- if heading South to North

After picking your starting trailhead you’ll select the campsites you’ll stay at each night. For help with that, refer to the itinerary section below.

Hiker on the Rockwall trail between Helmet Falls and Tumbling Creek

When to Hike the Rockwall

The Rockwall Trail is best hiked between early-mid July and mid September. Any earlier and the passes can still be snowbound and sections can be subject to avalanche danger. Later season trips provide a means to beat the crowds and gain booking flexibility. The downside is that the days get shorter, the nights get colder, and there is a significant chance of early season storms disrupting or canceling your hike all together.

My recommendation on when to hike it

I hiked the Rockwall in early October snow-free, but the nights were chilly (woke up to significant frost) and we used up the majority of daylight hours to complete the Rockwall in 2 nights. If you get lucky with weather and are prepared for the potential of cold-weather/snow, fall can be the perfect time to take this trip and you’ll experience solitude unlike any other time of year. We hiked the first 40 km before encountering another group, camped alone at Tumbling Creek, and shared Floe lake with only 4 other parties.  With demand for reservations falling off significantly after the middle of September,  it’s possible to reserve a permit the day before starting a trip (especially during the week). If you are prepared for the challenges of late season hiking, this is the way to go, so keep your eyes glued to the forecast and make a last minute decision. You might end up having this incredible hike all to yourself!  

How to Get to the Trailheads - Shuttles & Transportation

The Rockwall Trail starts from either Floe Lake Trailhead or Paint Pots Trailhead in Kootenay National Park, approximately 50 km from Banff (Paint Pots) and 175 km from the city of Calgary. The Floe Lake and Paint Pots trailheads are 13 km apart on the Kootenay Parkway Highway 93, making transportation between trailheads a required annoyance. Your options for dealing with this are as follows:

 

    • Take 2 cars and leave one at each trailhead.
    • Hitchhike. If you’re electing this option, the best bet is to start your trip with the hitchhike. You get it over with and are more likely to get picked up as you look all fresh and clean! Consider making a small sign on a piece of paper that says “Hiker: only going 13 km” (helps take the edge off by helping drivers realize that even if you’re a weirdo, they won’t be stuck with you for long).
    • Bet on your social skills and charm (busy season only). Meet someone on the trail or at the parking lot that will drive you to your car. Bring desirable backpacking bribes (think dessert, candy, pocket cocktails) to help lubricate negotiations.
    • Convince a friend, spouse, parent, or lover to drop you off and pick you up! Just make sure you arrange all the details in advance as there is no cell service!

Which Direction Should You Hike the Rockwall Trail?

The Rockwall can be hiked:

    •  North to South starting at Paint Pots trailhead and ending at Floe Lake trailhead, or
    •  South to North starting at Paint Pots and ending at Floe Lake trailhead.

Quite frankly, you should be happy if you get a permit going either direction given how hard it is to snag sites. The hike is awesome no matter how you do it! Floe Lake tends to be the most popular campsite and as a result your itinerary may be dictated by the available dates for camping here.  

I hiked the Rockwall North to South and if I had to choose I’d do that again. Doing it this way lets you enjoy camping at Floe Lake on your last night. Floe Lake is the pièce de résistance of the Rockwall campsites, and enjoying sunrise here is an epic way to cap your trip.

How Long Does it Take to Hike the Rockwall?

The Rockwall can be backpacked in 2-5 days depending on how much mileage you’d like to cover each day. In my opinion the sweet spot for hiking the Rockwall is 2-3 nights for reasonably conditioned hikers who are mindful of their pack weight.  You’ll start early and typically finish in the later afternoon. You’ll have full days of hiking, but leave plenty of time for photos, snack breaks, and lunch.  If you’re someone that likes slow mornings or lazing around camp in the afternoon, go for 4 nights – that’ll be perfect. 

The shorter you go for, the more important it is to be cognizant of your pack weight and what you’re packing (see the what to pack section). Pack weight makes a huge difference in your enjoyment levels during long days on the trail.

Rockwall Trail Sections

The Rockwall Trail is best thought of as 5 unique sections. Here’s a quick breakdown of each section described for a North to South trip (Paint Pots to Floe Lake Trailhead). If you’re going South to North, use your imagination and remember uphill changes to downhill!  😉

Helmet Falls in Kootenay National Park

Paint Pots Trailhead to Helmet Falls - 14.2 km

14.2 KM - 500 M elevation gain / 200 M elevation loss

The opening section of the Rockwall takes you through lush forest until you pass the Helmet-Ochre junction campground at 8.2 km.  Shortly after Helmet-Ochre Campground the trail swiftly gains elevation for about a kilometer before continuing at a more gradual pace up to the Helmet Falls Campground.  By the time you reach this campground, you’re 14 km into your trip and starting to get a real taste of some of the scenery to come! The campground is situated between the tributaries of Helmet Creek and 350m Helmet Falls crashes down in the distance. Take a breath, soak it all in, and taste that mountain air with an essence of waterfall mist! Yum!  A short side trip takes you closer to the base of the falls for a closer look. Stay here for the night if it’s on the itinerary, if not, proceed to the next level.

Heading towards Rockwall Pass

Helmet Falls to Tumbling Creek over Rockwall Pass- 12.3 KM

12.3 KM - 700 M elevation gain / 500 M elevation loss

After departing the Helmet Creek Campground the trail begins an ascent, climbing over 400m in just over 3 km to Limestone Summit.  This hard work gives you your first close-up of the incredible Rockwall. Take it in and enjoy. Erosive forces have been working relentlessly for millennia  to create this view for you and your Instagram followers!  Show ‘em some love and savor it! After your climb, you’ll descend towards the south fork of Helmet Creek before climbing again to Rockwall Pass and eventually passing the junction for Wolverine Pass where a short side trip leads to the border of Kootenay National Park. The scenery along this section is absolutely stunning as you view the Rockwall, alpine meadows and glaciers. Shortly after the junction you’ll make a short but steep descent down to Tumbling Creek Campground with views towards Tumbling Glacier and the Rockwall along the way. The campground is in the trees near the creek. 

views to tumbling glacier on the way to Tumbling Pass

Tumbling Creek to Numa Creek over Tumbling Pass - 7.9 km

7.9 KM - 400 M elevation gain / 700 M elevation loss

After departing the campground and crossing Tumbling Creek, you’ll fire up the ol’ pegs and begin your ascent up to Tumbling pass gaining 350m in 2.5 km. Go legs go! Walking through subalpine forest, you’ll have views of Tumbling Glacier. After reaching the height of the pass you’ll descend through a boulder meadow before following numerous switchbacks alongside tributaries fed from the glacier above, fording the water on numerous occasions. As you descend and hear the roar of Numa Creek grow louder, shrubbery begins to surround the trail. Make lots of noise here to avoid sneaking up on a bear enjoying the buffet of berries that can be found in this section. After walking through some lush vegetation that makes you feel as if you’re hiking in the Pacific Northwest, you’ll arrive at Numa Creek Campsite. 

Numa Pass at the height of the Rockwall Trail

Numa Creek to Floe Lake over Numa Pass - 9.2 km

9.4 KM - 800 M elevation gain / 300 M elevation loss

From Numa Creek Campsite, you’ll cross a log bridge over Numa Creek and hike through lush vegetation adjoining multiple avalanche chutes before beginning the climb to Numa Pass, the highest point on the Rockwall Trail. The ascent to Numa Pass is strenuous with 800m of elevation gain in under 7 km. As you near the top the landscape changes from alpine forest to a barren alpine tundra. From Numa Pass incredible vistas greet your weary legs including a glimpse of Mt. Temple to the North. After taking in the view from the pass, continue down through the alpine as you wind through larch glades and seasonal wildflower meadows, noticing as Floe Lake comes closer into view below you.  Once you reach Floe Lake there are a couple of frequently occupied tent pads near the water, unfortunately the  other sites lack the same view out to the lake. Fortunately, the cooking area is set adjacent to the lake and provides great consolation. Don’t forget to set your alarm, sunrise here is a spectacle to behold!

Floe Lake on the Rockwall Trail

Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead - 10.5 km

9.4 KM - 150 M elevation gain / 900 M elevation loss

After walking for several hundred meters through the subalpine forest surrounding the magnificent Floe Lake, the trail drops sharply for the next 2.5 km, quickly losing 400m.  For the final 8 km you’ll find yourself walking through the remnants of the substantial forest fire that burned through Kootenay National Park in 2003. Heed extra caution on windy days as some of these trees have precarious leans to them. Take note of the incredible regrowth that has already occurred in this burned area and observe the significant logjams that have funneled their way into the valley and Floe Creek below. To wrap the hike you’ll walk alongside a beautiful canyon eroded by the Vermillion River, before crossing to the Floe Lake Trailhead. Give your hiking companions (if applicable) a high five! You did it!!  

View along the Rockwall Trail towards Floe Lake.

Rockwall Itinerary Options

Here’s your Rockwall itinerary buffet! No matter your time or desired mileage level there should be an itinerary that suits your palate.  I’ve also indicated which day you’re likely to find the most challenging. 

Campsites on the Rockwall Trail

To make your reservation for hiking the Rockwall you’ll need to select a campsite for each night. There are 5 campsites along the Rockwall Trail.  Listed in order from North to South they are:

    • Helmet-Ochre Junction Campground*
    • Helmet Falls Campground
    • Tumbling Creek Campground
    • Numa Creek Campground
    • Floe Lake Campground

*None of the below itineraries include the Helment-Ochre Junction Campground. In my opinion, staying at this site provides limited benefit as Helmet Falls to the Paint Pots Trailhead is not a challenge for most hikers looking to complete the Rockwall in its entirety. In a pinch, those looking to spend 4 nights on the trail could use this site as a substitute for Helmet Falls if that was booked. 

Rockwall Trail in 1 Night /2 Days

Crazy?? Maybe! But trail runners slay this dragon of hike in a day. So, the Rockwall Trail is doable as a 1 night / 2 day backpacking trip if that’s all your schedule affords. To make this happen, you’ll need to travel light and be comfortable hiking 30 km+ days with significant elevation changes. Your pack weight should be under 20 lbs. I’d also suggest doing this early in the season (July) so that the long daylight hours are on your side and you can hike from dawn to dusk if needed. 

Now that the disclaimer is out of the way, time to pick your poison:

Starting at Paint Pots Trailhead

Option 1
    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trailhead to Tumbling Creek (26.5 km) 
    • Day 2: Tumbling Creek to Floe Lake Trailhead (27.6 km) – Hardest Day

Notes: This option splits the mileage evenly between the two days with Day 2 being significantly more challenging as you’ll combine both Tumbling Pass and Numa Pass in one day before making the knee-crunching descent from Floe Lake to the parking lot.

Option 2
    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trailhead to Numa Creek (34.4 km) – Hardest Day
    • Day 2: Numa Creek to Floe Lake Trailhead (19.7 km)

Notes: A huge Day 1 is a great way to go as you benefit from fresh legs and guaranteed blister-free feet!  Plus, by doing it this way, you group the two easier passes together (Rockwall Pass and Tumbling Pass). This itinerary also saves the most physically strenuous pass (Numa Creek Campsite to Numa Pass) for the lower mileage day and provides ample time for a lunch stop at Flow Lake prior to making the big descent down to the trailhead.

Starting at Floe Lake Trailhead

Option 1
    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead to Numa Creek (19.7 km)
    • Day 2: Numa Creek to Paint Pots (34.4 km) – Hardest Day

Notes: For a 1-night option going South to North, this is the option that I’d pick as the first day is shorter, but includes a significant amount of elevation delta going directly from the Floe Lake Trailhead to the trail’s high point (Numa Pass) then making the big drop down to Numa Creek. The second day will be long, but the most challenging ascent will come first thing as you grind up Tumbling pass from Numa Creek Campground. The final 14 km from Helmet Falls to the trailhead will fly by. 

Option 2
    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead (27.6 km) to Tumbling Creek – Hardest Day
    • Day 2: Tumbling Creek to Paint Pots Trailhead (26.5 km) 

Notes: Despite evening out the mileage, Day 1 will be brutal on this trip as you ascend the trail’s two longest climbs back-to-back while squishing the epic descent from Numa Pass to Numa Creek in the middle. The upside? Day 2 should feel like a breeze after making the early morning climb from Tumbling creek to Rockwall pass, so you can throw it into cruise all the way down.

hiker crosses Numa Creek on the rockwall trail

Rockwall Trail in 2 Nights/3 Days

Anytime you can fit a trip like the Rockwall into an extended weekend, you go for it right? If that’s your motto and you’re an in-shape backpacker that knows your limits, this is probably the trip length for you. When I hiked the Rockwall this is how I did it (North-South) and if I had a do over, I wouldn’t change a thing! This trip duration makes for a couple full days, but you have ample time to enjoy the views without feeling rushed and you’re left with an easy half-day conclusion to wrap it up. 

Starting at Paint Pots Trailhead

    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trailhead to Tumbling Creek (26.5 km) – Hardest Day
    • Day 2: Tumbling Creek to Floe Lake (17.1 km) 
    • Day 3: Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead (10.5 km)

Notes: This is the exact itinerary that I hiked. Day 1 was long, but manageable. Day 2 felt longer than the mileage would suggest given the significant elevation gain over Tumbling Pass and Numa Pass before reaching Floe Lake. The hike out from Floe Lake flew by in the morning of the last day.

Starting at Floe Lake Trailhead

    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead to Numa Creek (19.7 km) – Tie Hardest
    • Day 2: Numa Creek to Helmet Falls (20.2 km) – Tie Hardest
    • Day 3: Helmet Falls to Paint Pots Trailhead (14.2 km)

Notes: This itinerary has been included as an option, but I don’t recommend this itinerary unless you have no other options for the following reasons:

    1. You have limited time to enjoy the scenery around Floe Lake.
    2. The section from Helmet Falls to the Paint Pots Trailhead isn’t nearly as enjoyable of a denouement as the descent from Floe Lake.
Heading towards Numa Pass on the Rockwall Trail

Rockwall Trail in 3 Nights/4 Days

Completing this hike in 3 nights and 4 days requires one longer day, but allows for plenty of time to relax at campsites and enjoy the Rockwall at a more leisurely pace. Unfortunately, this itinerary is slightly awkward, as you’re still stuck with one longish day that will include two passes. 

Starting at Paint Pots Trailhead

    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trailhead to Helmet Falls (14.2 km)
    • Day 2: Helmet Falls to Numa Creek (20.2 km) – Hardest Day
    • Day 3: Numa Creek to Floe Lake (9.3 km)
    • Day 4: Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead (10.5 km)  

Notes: Day 2 will be the most challenging as you combine Rockwall Pass and Tumbling Pass in one day. Both are manageable ascents taken in this direction. You’re likely to find the long descent from Tumbling Pass to Numa Creek tiring at the end of a long day. Day 3 has light mileage, but the ascent to Numa Pass is long and gruelling.

Starting at Floe Lake Trailhead

    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead to Floe Lake (10.5 km)
    • Day 2: Floe Lake to Tumbling Creek (17.1 km) – Hardest Day
    • Day 3: Tumbling Creek to Helmet Falls (12.3 km) 
    • Day 4: Helmet Falls to Paint Pots Trailhead (14.2 km)

Notes: Day 2 will be tough. After making the big descent from Numa Pass to Numa Creek, you’ll make the long and thigh-burning ascent to Tumbling Pass. Day 1 is likely to be the next most challenging as the climb to Floe Lake is significant.

Descending the Floe Lake Trail on the Rockwall

Rockwall Trail in 4 Nights/5 Days

The Rockwall Trail’s incredible scenery is worthwhile sticking around for and with 5 established campsites along the trail, why not make use of them? By going with this itinerary you’ll break all major elevation gains into separate days. This seems to be the most popular way for most backpackers trek the Rockwall. The more relaxed schedule allows you to sleep in a bit and relax at camp after arriving early in the afternoon. If this sounds like the type of adventure you’re looking for, here’s how to make it happen:

Starting at Paint Pots Trailhead:

    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trail Head to Helmet Falls (14.2 km) 
    • Day 2: Helmet Falls to Tumbling Creek (12.3 km)
    • Day 3: Tumbling Creek to Numa Creek (7.9 km)
    • Day 4: Numa Creek to Floe Lake (9.3 km) – Toughest Day
    • Day 5: Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead (10.5 km)  

Notes: This itinerary is the standard Rockwall itinerary that many backpackers choose. The climb to Numa Pass on Day 4 is likely to be the most challenging.

Starting at Floe Lake Trailhead

    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead to Floe Lake (10.5 km) – Toughest Day 
    • Day 2: Floe Lake to Numa Creek (9.3 km)
    • Day 3: Numa Creek to Tumbling Creek (7.9 km)
    • Day 4: Tumbling Creek to Helmet Falls (7.9 km)
    • Day 5: Helmet Falls to Paint Pots Trailhead (14.2 km)
  •  
  • Notes: This itinerary is the standard Rockwall itinerary that many backpackers choose. The climb to Floe Lake (Day 1) is likely to be the most challenging, with the climb from Numa Creek to Tumbling pass (Day 3) a close second. 
Vermillion River Canyon by Floe Lake Trailhead

What to Pack for the Rockwall Trail

Since I backpacked the Rockwall, I’ve changed and continuously improved my gear setup to lighten my pack weight. Backpacking light makes it easier to cover long distances, large amounts of elevation and be a lot more comfortable doing so! 

That said, if you’re new to backpacking, don’t stress out about buying the latest and greatest equipment. Save money and use things you already own  or borrow things from a friend. Later, when you’ve gained more experience, modify your kit and change out gear as you get a better understanding of what creature comforts you can and can’t live without. Even then, it’s a consistently evolving process. 

With this in mind, here’s a list of what to pack and gear suggestions for hiking the Rockwall Trail.

Park Pass and Site Reservations

Don’t forget to buy a park entrance pass or Discovery Annual Pass and leave it on the dash in your car. To avoid the line at the park gates, or if you’re driving past the ticket windows at the National Park gates before opening, buy your park entrance pass and print it in advance.

Additionally, print and bring along the campsite reservation/backcountry reservation confirmations for your trip.

Best Tent for the Rockwall Trail

I upgraded to Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 last year.  It’s semi-freestanding (needs to be staked), double walled and weighs in at a mere 2.5 lbs. Unlike many 2-person tents, it doesn’t have a tapered floor and can fit 2 extra wide sleeping pads side-by-side with no overlap. A rare feature in this class of tent!  It’s cozy, but workable for two and palatial for one!  I debated between this tent and the MSR Freelite and ultimately chose the MH as it was in-stock. The MH Strato doesn’t seem to be as readily available in Canada, so you may want to go for the MSR Freelite to avoid the risk of paying duty shipping the MH from a retailer in the US.  Ultimately, both are a great lightweight tents with similar features, but feel very fragile given their lightweight components.  If you’re looking for more durability/resilience these aren’t the tents for you. 

If you’re looking for a completely freestanding tent that offers more durability, check out the Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2. It’s unique blend of functionality, livability, weight, and durability earn high praise and Big Agnes’s customer service is outstanding!  

Best Backpack for the Rockwall Trail

If you’re relatively new to backpacking and building out your kit slowly, there is nothing wrong with using a large size travel backpack with a decent suspension system and padded hipbelt or borrowing a pack from a friend. This gives you time to decide what features you need and whether or not backpacking (and the gear) is something you’re going to invest in.  When I first started backpacking, I used my Khmer Explorer Travel Set on the West Coast Trail and Sunshine Coast Trail which worked great despite my poor packing skills (don’t recommend backpacking with 55lbs…)!  

If you’ve begun dialing in your backpacking kit,  check out the Gregory Focal or Women’s specific Facet. At ~2.5lbs these packs provide a great compromise between barebones ultralight packs and the heavier feature laden packs. The Osprey Exos (men’s) & Eja (women’s) backpacks are also great packs comparable in features and weight.  

If you’re ready to go to an extreme level of gram counting and have eliminated all creature comforts check out the Hyperlite 3400 southwest. It’s 100% waterproof and constructed from ultra light dyneema fabric. Being ultralight, you’ll sacrifice features, so if you hate getting a swampy back (that’s me) you may prefer the Osprey or Gregory despite the small weight penalty. Backpacking gear is always a zero sum game! 

Sleeping Mat

I used to have terrible sleeps in the backcountry until I switched to the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xlite. It’s incredibly lightweight, comfortable and packs down to the size of a Nalgene bottle. This is probably one of my favorite backpacking items! Try it out. You won’t regret it. Sleep well!

Backpacking Pillow

Yes, you can sleep with a pillow not made of bunched up clothes in the backcountry.  I love the Nemo Fillo Elite, but they’re harder to find in Canada. Fortunately, this one from Sea-to-Summit are a similar concept, weight and size. 

Sleeping Bag

I can’t speak highly enough of Patagonia’s Fitz Roy sleeping bags I invested in one several years ago. It’s unbelievably lightweight and packs down small. I found the 30°F / -1°C to be perfect for most outings. Like all Patagonia products, it’s not cheap, but they stand behind their gear and the quality matches the price point. If you spend a lot of time in colder environments they also make a 20°F / -7°C version.  These bags are a very worthwhile splurge you won’t be disappointed in.

If you’re looking for an even lighter-weight option, consider going for a sleeping bag quilt. Feathered Friends  Flicker UL Quilt Sleeping Bag has won numerous awards and is a stalwart among ultralight backpackers. With a weight starting at  526 g (1 lb 2.5 oz), I can see why!  

Water Purification

I love the Steripen. It’s light, portable and only takes minutes to purify a liter of water in a Nalgene. Press the button, place the pen in your bottle, and stir for a couple minutes. It’s like magic! Make sure to bring a few purification tablets as a backup should you run into any technical problems/dead battery with your Steripen.

Trowel, Toilet Paper & Hand Sanitizer

The Rockwall trail feels like luxury with established outhouses at each campsite, that said you need to bring a trowel for digging a cathole in case nature calls at any other time. Follow minimum impact camping principles and be sure to go at least 200m away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.). Pack out your TP or hang onto it until you reach the next outhouse.

Don’t forget a  small bottle (1 oz) of hand sanitizer.

Swiss Army Knife

Fixing gear, cutting food, a swiss army knife is your go to everything too for backpacking.

Stove & Fuel Canisters

Lightweight, convenient, and reliable, the MSR pocket rocket has been my go to backpacking stove for years.

Lighter & Matches

A bring a small baby Bic lighter (in a mini-ziplock to keep it dry) & a few matches as a failsafe.

Backcountry Cookset

I love the GSI Halulite Microdualist II, Two-person cookset. It’s lightweight and I can fit my MSR pocket rocket and a fuel canister inside. If you don’t already have a stove, consider the MSR PocketRocket Stove Kit for an all-inclusive solution.

Water Bottle or Reservoir

Nalgenes are always a backcountry favorite. If you’re cutting weight or looking for a way to save a buck, a simple smart water is the go-to for ultralight backpackers. I’ve recently moved to a hydration reservoir as it allows me to stay hydrated continuously without stopping to grab and open a bottle.

Water Container

The Rockwall Trail has a pretty solid supply of accessible water sources, but sometimes it’s nice to have extra water storage capacity for cooking and camp.  The MSR DromLite Bag V2.  are a lightweight option to add this convenience and are essential on trips with less reliable water sources. 

First Aid Kit

From blisters, to scrapes, and cuts. A first aid kit is an essential item to have.  The pre-built kits from Adventure Medical Kits have served me well on many adventurers. At the end of your trip write down any items you used and replace them so they’re ready for your next adventure.

Hiking Poles

For the grueling passes of the Rockwall, poles make a big difference!  I resisted getting them for years, but take it from a former skeptic, poles are incredible at reducing the strain of long, gruelling descents and providing extra stability on exposed sections. Do yourself a favor and get a pair of poles. I‘ve had great luck with these Leki’s, but for a reliable entry-level option try these Black Diamond Poles. Black Diamond also makes a carbon fiber version if you’re looking to save extra weight.

Bear Spray

The Rockwall trail passes through prime Grizzly Bear country making Bear Spray  an absolute must! Make sure to remove the packaging, check the expiration date before heading out, and know how to use it.

Dry Bag

The Rockwall offers bear storage boxes at every campsite so you can leave your buiky bear can at home! For trips like this, I use a dry bag to store my food, camp cook wear, and toiletries/scented items in, making transportation easy to the bear box and keeping everything nicely organized inside my pack.

Headlamp

The Spot 500-R is the way to go with 9 modes including the night vision saving red light!  Red light mode takes a minute to get used to, but once you do it’s a total game changer trust me! The stars never looked so good!  The Spot 500-R is rechargable, but with a batter life of over 19 hrs on medium and 7hrs on high it should get you through the trip!

GPS, Compass & Map

The Rockwall Trail is extremely well marked, but download the GAIA app for maps and gps. Additionally, I always bring a traditional compass and map in the case of technical problems or dead batteries.

Power Bank & Charging Cable

Don’t forget a power bank to keep your phone charged for photos and gps. Plus a backup for charging your headlamp if it needs a recharge. 

Clothing & Accessories to Pack for the Rockwall

Shell Jacket

A shell jacket is one of the most important items in your backpacking kit and it’s vital to have a great shell for the rapidly changing mountain environment you’ll experience backpacking the Rockwall. The Arc’teryx Beta shell is the best all around shell jacket. This shell performs in all adverse conditions and is the perfect outer layer for rainy days, or cool nights. Arc’teryx gear is expensive, but impeccably designed. I was skeptical for years, until I purchased a few pieces of their trail running gear and got hooked. If you’re looking for the best reviewed hiking shell out there, this is the one. 

For another excellent option that is more economical,  check out the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L

Puff Jacket

I’ve had the Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody for years and it works great on it’s own or layered underneath your shell for extra warmth. It’s a perfect multi-functional item for everyday, backpacking, and pretty much anything where you might need a bit of warmth. I’m still looking for an activity it doesn’t work for. 

Rainpants

You leave camp on sunny beautiful day breaking sweat over a pass, only to have storm clouds roll in an hour later and dump sleet on you. Rainpants are lifesaver for rapidly changing mountain weather.  Many have the functionality for quickly taking them on and off without removing your shoes/boots allowing you to stay comfortable even if you get caught in a sudden downpour.  I’ve been happy with the Black Diamond StormLine Rain PantsThe Patagonia Torrentshell pants are also a great option. 

Sun Hoodie

When I went backpacking in the Grand Canyon a few years back, I was shocked to see throngs of Arizona Trail thru-hikers wearing hoodies in the  40 C heat. Turns out they weren’t just lost tech bros in the Grand Canyon, they were really onto something! A sun hoodie has been one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking kit. They keep you burn free, are surprisingly cool, and let you get away with leaving the bottle of sunscreen at home (or bringing way less). The Sahara Sun Hoodie from REI is one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking wardrobe and you can’t beat the price. 

Zip Off / Convertible Hiking Pants

I never thought I’d see the day I embraced the zip-off pant. But hey, they’re the best of both worlds. Check out the Quandary Pant for a great option

A pair of shorts

In addition to hiking pants, it’s nice to have a pair of shorts to change into after a long day on the trail or as a backup option. Trail running shorts are light and comfortable. 

Base layer top

In addition to a sun hoodie, I also bring one base layer top to change into at camp or have as an alternate. The Capilene Cool trail  t-shirts work great for me on long hikes and trail runs, but pretty much any athletic quick-dry top will work fine. 

Base Layer Bottom

A merino wool or synthetic bottom baselayer is perfect for warming up at night or during chilly mornings.

Underwear

I’ve had the best luck with Patagonia underwear for hiking, trail running, mountain biking and skiing and found them to be more durable than the more expensive ones from lululemon. I usually bring a 2-3 pair depending on trip length. 

3 Pairs of Hiking Socks

Darn Tough Vermont makes the best hiking socks hands down. They’re guaranteed for life/replaced free of charge and they don’t stink. Really! I typically bring 3 pair. 1 pair for hiking, 1 pair to change into at camp, and a reserve to throw into the rotation as needed. 

Gloves

I typically bring a thin weatherproof pair of trail running gloves, like these

Sun Hat & Winter Hat/Toque

A cap or Tilley hat keeps your face protected from the intense mountain sun. A toque is great for warming up during chilly mornings, evenings or when the weather takes a turn. 

Sunglasses

Protect your eyes, don’t forget to bring your Sunglasses!

Trail Runners or Boots - Are Trail Runners or Hiking Boots Better for the Rockwall?

The answer here is it depends! If you have your backpack weight down to less than 20-25lbs and have a decent amount of backpacking experience, trail runners are the way to go during the summer months. If you’re going at a time when snowfall and colder weather are a possibility go with boots. Boots are also a better choice if you have a heavier pack and are newer to backpacking as they provide more stability and sturdiness. You also feel rough sections of the trail alot less on the base of your feet!  

In October with the cold weather and snow a real possibility I hiked the Rockwall in my Scarpa Kailash Hiking Boots.  During the summer months and with a light load I’d wear my La Sportiva Bushido II.

Camp Shoes

Crocs are back! Well for backpacking camp shoes they never left… They’re lightweight and ugly as ever. Many backpackers find them to be the perfect camp shoe for resting sore feat after a long day in boots/shoes.

Personally, I still hate them. I have an old pair of Tom’s which I occasionally bring. They are light and less bulky than Crocs. If going with a trail runner, I’ll often ditch the camp shoe altogether and just loosen my laces. Your call!  

Microspikes (Season Dependent)

Kahtoola Microspikes slip effortlessly over your boots and make walking on snow and ice a breeze. These are absolutely essential for early season travel or later in the year when snow/ice are a possibility.

Low Trail Running Gaiters

Low gaiters are perfect for keeping rocks, sand, and snow out of your trail runners/boots and preventing blisters.

Additional Items to Pack

Toothbrush & Toothpaste

I recently started packing these toothpaste tabs in a tiny plastic bag/ziplock to save more space.

Duct Tape (For Repairs and Blisters)

Food

Everyone has different takes and caloric requirements, so I’m not going to tell you exactly what to bring. I generally avoid the just add water meals you find at REI or MEC.  They’re overpriced and often don’t rehydrate as you’d like. Check out these incredible soups and chilis they taste better, are made with better ingredients, and are less expensive. As another option,  I head to the grocery store and search for things like lentil rice, ramen, or plant-based mac & cheese. They’re basically just add/boil quickly meals and taste like real food. Always rebag/repack this type of food as there is no reason to carry unnecessary packaging weight on the trail.

Travelling from outside Canada? DO NOT FORGET THIS

If you’re traveling from outside Canada don’t forget to purchase comprehensive travel insurance that includes emergency evacuation!

Check out World Nomads* for a quote. Hopefully you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared! I broke my collarbone  traveling a few years ago, which hurt enough! I can’t imagine how much worse it would have felt if I had to pay the $15,000 in medical bills out-of-pocket. 

*We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

Luxury Items You Could Pack

These items are extreme luxuries for a backpacking trip, but may be worth it depending on your weight priorities and the distance you plan to cover. I’d only  consider these items on a low distance or base camp style hike given their added weight and bulk. 

Camp Chair

After a long day on the trail there’s nothing better than finding a nice comfortable spot to rest your weary glutes. Fortunately, the Rockwall Trail offers tables and benches at every eating area. So this item is almost certainly a leave behind on this trip unless you’re looking for a comfortable spot to sit near your tent. Check out the Big Agnes Mica Basin Camp Chair or the Helinox Chair One.  Both weigh around 1kg, and are light enough to justify bringing on slower/easier backpacking trips where weight isn’t as big of consideration or for trips where you’re taking day trips from an established base camp.

Hammock

If you’ve never strung up a hammock between two trees deep in the backcountry you’re missing out! Nothing beats getting horizontal with some great reading material in the pre-dinner hours or taking in an amazing sunset from your own outdoor couch.  The ENO Double Nest has room for two and at ½ kg  it’s hardly even a splurge to pack.  P.S don’t forget the straps to hang it.

Final Thoughts on the Rockwall Trail

    •  The Rockwall Trail is unquestionably one the best hikes for scenery that I’ve experienced in the Canadian Rockies. 
    • Go late season to avoid the crowds. 
    • 2.5 days felt like the perfect length. It was 2 full days with early morning starts and late afternoon finishes, but plenty of time for lunch, scenery observation, and snacks. The last day from Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead was an easy half day. 
    • The section from Tumbling Pass to Numa Creek felt like it would be quite hot in peak summer months. 
    • What I’d change hiking it again: Nothing! I was happy with the duration and campsites.   
    • Hike it North to South. Floe Lake is a great place to finish. Sunrise there is spectacular. The final day out is short, yet scenic, and makes for an easy conclusion. 

Your Thoughts on the Rockwall Trail?

Have you hiked the Rockwall Trail? I’d love to hear from you.

Questions about the Rockwall? Drop me a line in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help! 

Don't miss these adventures

Howe Sound Crest Trail – The Ultimate Guide for Hiking the HSCT

View from Magnesia Meadows on the Howe Sound Crest Trail

The Howe Sound Crest Trail (HSCT) serves up a taste of incredible BC backcountry only minutes from downtown Vancouver!  For over 29 km the trail rapidly climbs and descends along the spine of the Howe Sound Crest past iconic peaks like the Lions, James Peak, Mt. Harvey, and Brunswick Mountain. Along this epic hike you’ll be inundated with stunning vistas of the Coast Mountain Range and the Howe Sound far below.  The Howe Sound Crest Trail is ambitious 1-2 night backpacking trip (or epic trail run) that features several small scrambles, mild exposure, and a few precarious spots with chains/ropes.   If you’re expecting tent pads, bear lockers, toilets or anything that feels remotely similar to established backpacking trips like Elfin lakes, this isn’t the hike for you.  That said, the HSCT rewards intrepid backpackers with a trip unmatched by anything with this proximity to Vancouver. 

* Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links. If you click one of the links and make a purchase we’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. We’re very particular about products and we only recommend products, services, or accommodation we trust and use ourselves.*

Need to know for hiking the Howe Sound Crest Trail

    • Difficulty: Tough
    • Distance: 29 km Official Distance from BC Parks (28 km according to my GPS)
    • Elevation Gain: 1700 m (Cypress Mountain to Porteau Cove)
    • Elevation Loss: 2500 m (Cypress Mountain to Porteau Cove)
    • Permit Required: Not required
    • Navigation: Established trail that is relatively easy to follow
    • Water Sources: First ~ 1/2 can be dry particularly in late season. Carry enough water to reach the tarn at Magnesia Meadows
    • Food Storage/Bears: Bear canister or Ursack needed. No established bear caches on trail.
    • Best Campsite walked past or stayed at: Magnesia Meadows.
    • Trail advisories and info link: BC Parks Cypress

Things you’ll love about backpacking the HSCT

    • Easy access from Vancouver.
    • Incredible scenery with the hike traversing the crest of the Howe Sound.
    • True backcountry experience with no established campsites. 
    • Incredible lakes and peak bagging opportunities.
    • Easily manageable weekend trip.

Things you won’t love about backpacking the HSCT

    • Requires shuttling cars or arranging a pickup/drop-off from Porteau Cove
    • Steep descents and rope sections can be tricky with a heavy pack. 
    • Limited water availability on first half of hike (heading south to north) in summer and fall. 
    • Having to hike with/past the throngs of day hikers to St. Marks Summit.
    • The last 3.5km to Porteau Cover are an anticlimactic trudge along a road. 
The Lions on the Howe Sound Crest Trail

What to pack for backpacking the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Here’s a quick summary of what to pack for backpacking the Howe Sound Crest Trail. You’ll find a detailed breakdown of each item at the end of the post with rational, alternatives and quick links to check prices.

Clothing and Accessories 

Additional Items

Luxury Items (very optional)

*We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

How to get to the Howe Sound Crest Trail

The Howe Sound Crest Trail is typically done as a point-to-point hike from south to north starting from Cypress mountain near West Vancouver and finishing at Porteau cove. North to south navigation is also possible, but adds significant elevation gain to your hike (see below).  

There is no Translink (public bus) available to Cypress mountain or Porteau cove, but Cypress Coach Lines does offer transportation to the Cypress Provincial Park during the summer months and into the middle of September. You can also take an Uber/Lyft directly to Cypress mountain.  

The HSCT is a point-to-point hike and you need a solution for returning (or getting to) from Porteau Cove. For this you’ll either need to bribe someone to pick you up, drop a car in advance,  or be forced to try your luck hitchhiking.

If you wan’t to beat yourself up with even more elevation, you can take Translink (public transit) to Horseshoe Bay and hike up the Baden Powell to Cypress Mountain .  This adds an extra 9km and over 1000 meters of elevation gain to an already long and strenuous adventure.  I did this in 2019 when ride-share apps or the private bus were not available. It made for a long, brutal day with close to 3000 meters of elevation gain. 

Should you hike the HSCT North to South or South to North?

The Howe Sound Crest Trail is typically hiked from South to North (Cypress Mountain to Porteau Cove) as going this route decreases your net elevation gain.  Choosing this direction, you’ll climb 1700 m and descend 2500 m vs the reverse on North to South itineraries.  

 Either way you slice it, the beginning and end are somewhat anticlimactic bookends to this amazing hike. You’ll either be slogging your way down a gravel road for 4km to finish or pushing past throngs of day hikers on the ever popular Saint Marks Summit. 

Can you bring dogs on the Howe Sound Crest Trail?

No, BC parks states that Backcountry areas are not suitable for dogs or other pets due to wildlife issues and the potential for problems with bears. Additionally, there are several segments of the HSCT that your dog will not be able to negotiate.  Every year there are several forced evacuations as a result of people trying, so leave your dog at home for this one

Can you have campfires?

No, campfires are not allowed on the HSCT. 

View from the campsite at magnesia meadows on the Howe Sound Crest Trail
Photo Credit Stephen Evans

Campsites on the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Only wilderness camping is available on the HSCT. That means you will not find any amenities like outhouses, tent pads or bear hangs/caches. Rules for minimum impact camping must be adhered to.  Make sure to:

    • Properly store all food using either a Bear canister or Ursack.
    • Bring a trowel and dig a cathole a minimum of 6 inches deep and at least 200m away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.). Pack out your TP.

While no established campsites exist there are several locations that are frequently used and incredible spots to spend the night.

Magnesia Meadows

About 15 km from the start of the Howe Sound Crest Trail, Magnesia Meadows is a logical camping spot for a 1 night trip. Situated in a beautiful alpine meadow the sublime sunset views of Mt. Harvey and the Howe Sound (see photo above)  are the perfect balm for aching legs. There is a good water source here provided by a small tarn,  that is close walk from the emergency shelter area where most people camp.

Brunswick Lake

19 km from the start of the trail Brunswick Lake is another excellent spot to camp and works particularly well for those looking to shorten their second day on the trail (and lengthen their first day). Brunswick lake is picturesque and a great spot to cool off on a hot summers day!  Continue past the emergency shelter at Brunswick Lake  before taking a right at the fork (South to North hikers) and head towards the lakes south shore for the best camping spots.  

Deeks Lake

22 km from the start of the trail, Deeks Lake is your final (appealing) option to camp on the HSCT. After this point, the trail follows along Deeks creek before becoming quite uneventful. While both Brunswick and Magnesia are far better camping options, this site placement may be convenient for North to South hikers looking for a spot to camp on night 1 after a late start. 

Near the Tarn by Unnecessary Mountain

For those looking to complete the HSCT in a couple nights, via a South to North traverse, you have to get a bit creative. Look for a faint trail leading to several small tarns in the basin to the South of the HSCT after descending slightly from Unnecessary Mountain. You’ll be forced to drop about 50m of elevation off the main trail and the route here is not always clear, but there are few other options for camping (with water) before Magnesia meadows.

View from St Marks Summit near Cypress Mountain

How long will it take to hike the Howe Sound Crest Trail

To give you an approximate idea, here’s my rough timing for the Howe Sound Crest Trail done as 2 days and 1 night.  I added several hours by hiking up the Baden Powell trail to Cypress Mountain from Horseshoe Bay to start my first day (wouldn’t recommend). 

As a baseline, I’d classify my pace on the faster side, but my gear setup was alot heavier when I did this hike, so ultra-lighters can definitely shave some time off. Either way, leave early on day one to avoid hiking in the dark, especially in the fall as the days grow shorter. This is a tough hike with lots of elevation gain and loss and numerous sections that are very slow going.  The kilometer distance is deceiving and it feels way longer than it is. 

These were my approximate times:

Horseshoe Bay to Cypress Mountain via Baden Powell Trail – 2.5 hrs

Cypress Mountain to Magnesia Meadows (with a couple quick stops and maybe 20-30 minute lunch) – 9 hours

Magnesia Meadows to Highway 99 (including add on up Brunswick Mountain, swim in Brunswick lake and lunch) – 7 hours

Sections of the Howe Sound Crest Trail

I’ve broken this trip down into sections with approximate distance and elevation gains/loss based on the standard  South to North route. Note there is a 1km variance between my GPS measured distance and BC stated distance for the Howe Sound Crest Trail.. 

Cypress Mountain to St. Marks Summit

500 m Elevation Gain (50M loss)
6 km

From the overnight parking lot at Cypress Mountain hike to  the main ski area until you see the day lodge is on your left hand side, then head toward the main wooden sign post for the ski resort. You should see several sign posts indicating St. Marks summit and the Howe Sound Crest Trail, this is where your hike begins. 

The first 5ish km of the Howe Sound Crest Trail meander through the trees before making several switchbacks to the top of St. Marks summit. The first part of the trail is relatively uneventful and can be busy. St. Marks Summit is a hugely popular day-hike and the throngs of running shoe, jean clad, hikers may leave you wondering if you’ve somehow gotten lost … Fear not, following St. Marks the crowds thin and the hike becomes a lot quieter (and more enjoyable).

Once you’ve reached the summit of St. Marks, follow the path off to the left to find the best view spots and take a moment to savor your first great vista. You likely won’t have the view to yourself, but it’s gorgeous nonetheless and worthy of a snack stop.

Once you’ve savored the views, the trail drop steeply down the backside of St. Marks before beginning the steep ascent up the appropriately named Mt. Unnecessary.

St. Marks to Mt. Unnecessary

350 m Elevation Gain (150M loss)
3 km

I found the ascent up Unnecessary to be the most mentally taxing, although far from the most technically challenging. It’s in the trees, your pack is at its heaviest (assuming you haven’t already eaten too much food) and the toll of descending St. Marks just to make an unnecessary up again is a slog.  Fortunately, after grunting your way up for a while, the trees begin to thin out and you’re granted an incredible view of the Howe Sound – the perfect antidote to unnecessary suffering!

The Lions from Unnecessary mountain

Unnecessary Mountain to West Lion

150 m Elevation Gain (100M loss)
1.5 km

From the top of Unnecessary mountain you’ll make a scramble down a steep roped section before the grade eases briefly as you continue towards the base of the Lions. Keep your eyes peeled for a small trail to the right that provides a  detour and option to fill up your water via steep descent to the tarns below.   If you’re planning a multi-nighter, there are also a few spots in here to  camp within reach of the tarns.

From this point, the trail begins to ascend steeply giving you a taste of the scrambling and challenges to come! Near the top of the ridge a stunning view awaits with huge cliffs dropping off around you! If you’re spending several nights on the trail, or if time allows, the West Lion provides an opportunity for a scramble and the chance to bag another summit on your epic Howe Sound Crest Trail adventure. 

Near the intersection with the trail to the top of the West Lion, the HSCT cuts down to the right and the more technical part begins!

West Lion to James Peak

200 m Elevation Gain (350M loss)
2 km

After losing 50 meters of elevation the trail climbs a  rock ledges around the south side of the West Lion, giving you your first taste of some exposure . Following this traverse, you descend briefly into a gully between the West Lion and Thomas peak before climbing back up towards Thomas Peak.  After the viewpoint near Thomas Peak, you’ll descend steeply losing significant elevation partially through a talus field full of ankle twisters. Keep your eyes peeled for the occasional orange trail marker indicating that you’re on the right path. Towards the left side of the field you’ll exit and begin a steep journey to Enchantment Pass and James Peak.  On the summit of James Peak, you’ll find a chain rope that can be used to help you cross a thrilling ridge!  Once across, James peak opens up into a meadow – a great spot to stop and catch your breath!

Scaling the ropes accross James Peak
Photo Credit Stephen Evans

James Peak to David Peak to Magnesia Meadows:

250 m Elevation Gain (200M loss)
2.5 km

When you’re ready to continue, look for orange markers that descend through the meadow towards the left side. Avoid the false trails leading straight, they end abruptly in a descent suitable only for those equipped with a squirrel suit!

Once you’ve completed your descent through the meadow afterJames peak, you’ll come to a fork in the road. The left fork leads up and over David peak with a steep scramble through the bush and several roped sections. To the right, the trail circumnavigates David peak, losing significant elevation before forcing you to regain it.  At time of hiking, the route to the left over David peak appeared to be the only option and was clearly marked as the main route. 

After ascending and steeply descending David peak the trail veers to the left towards Harvey pass and through a field of berry bushes. Make lots of noise in this area, as tons of ripe berries make this prime prime bear feeding territory late in the season. I spooked a black bear here on my hike. 

Once you’ve ascended through the berry-lane you’ll reach a fork in the trail with a path to Mount Harvey on the left and the HSCT continuing right.  Breathe a sigh of relief, as you spot the Magnesia Meadows emergency shelter 0.5 km up the trail. Magnesia Meadows is a stunning location to spend the night. The views here of Mount Harvey and the Howe Sound are nothing short of spectacular! Set up camp, savour the sunset and rest well, the hardest part of the Howe Sound is now behind you!

View from Magnesia Meadows

Magnesia Meadows to Brunswick Mountain trail:

150 m Elevation Gain (100M loss)
2 km

After packing up camp or taking a break at Magnesia Meadows, continue past the emergency shelter before following the trail as it veers to the left below Brunswick Mountain.  The trail moves through the trees and several meadows offer views of Mt. Harvey. to the left.  After 2km you’ll encounter a fork in the road where the HSCT meets Brunswick Mountain trail. If you’re up for it, dump your pack (remove your bear can from your backpack) and scramble up 250 meters of elevation in 0.7 km to bag Brunswick Mountain. From the top of Brunswick you’ll enjoy incredible views of the Howe Sound, a now small seeming Mt. Harvey, and the Coast mountain range that stretches for miles into the distance.

Brunswick Mountain on the howe sound crest trail
Photo credit Stephen Evans

Brunswick Mountain to Brunswick lake:

Negligible Elevation Gain (300M loss)
2 kM

When you’ve finished the detour up Brunswick mountain, continue along the trail towards Hat Pass. After reaching Hat Pass your big ascents are finished and it’s time for nearly 2500m of bone crunching descent back to Highway 99.   Just past Hat Pass and a large pond, the trail make the rapid descent towards Brunswick Lake, losing nearly 300m of elevation in just over one kilometer. Brunswick lake is a great spot for a refreshing dip to help cool those aching muscles and joints before continuing the bone crunching descent, just make sure you’re sunscreen and bug spray free before going in!  

Brunswick lake the perfect spot for a swim
Photos credit Stephen Evans

Brunswick Lake to Deeks Lake

50 m Elevation Gain (250M loss)
3 km

After you’ve enjoyed some time relaxing at Brunswick lake follow the fork to the left and cross a small rock bridge (another great spot to swim). The trail links up with Deeks creek and follows it for most of the way down to Deeks lake. You’ll make several cress crossings and navigate one small roped section on the way down passing Hanover Lake along the way. Upon reaching Deeks lake you’ll traverse the lakes western side through beautiful forest and mossy grounds until reaching a log jammed area and campsite on the lake’s southern end. 

Deeks Lake
Photo credit Stephen Evans

Deeks Lake to Highway 99

50 m Elevation Gain (1000 M loss)
6 km

From Deeks Lake the trail continues its descent and passes a small waterfall before continuing on what becomes an evermore uneventful descent through the forest. From the boundary of Cypress Provincial Park, you’ll slog the last 3.5km along a gravel road before shooting out near Porteau Road and Highway 99 to call it a wrap. 

Chuck off your pack, pat yourself on the back and drive down the road for a celebratory brew or post adventure feast in Squamish! 

Itinerary Options for the Howe Sound Crest Trail

There a few ways to hike the HSCT, so let’s take a look. These itineraries are in the standard South to North direction popular with most hikers. 

  *Note my GPS calculated mileage is about a km shorter than the listed distance provided by BC parks, so be aware of the potential for slight variance in these estimates. 

 

incredible view along the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Howe Sound Crest Trail in 1 Night 2 Days - South to North Option 1

    • Day 1: Cypress Mountain to Magnesia Meadows
      • 15 km
      • 1450 m Elevation Gain
      • 850 m Elevation Loss
    • Day 2: Magnesia Meadows to Porteau Cove (Highway 99)
      •  13 km
      • 250 m Elevation Gain
      • 1650 m Elevation Loss

Notes & Thoughts

This is my preferred itinerary for this trip. The first day is tough with some sections that feel extremely slow going. The trail on the second day moves much faster. The views from Magnesia Meadows are sublime making it a perfect spot to camp that’s conveniently just past the half-way mark of the trip. The side. trip up Brunswick Mountain is worthwhile and easily completed early on the 2nd day with this trip plan (mileage and elevation of this side-trip is not included in the above). 

Howe Sound Crest Trail in 1 Night 2 Days - South to North Option 2

    • Day 1: Cypress Mountain to Brunswick Lake
      • 19 km
      • 1600 m Elevation Gain
      • 1250 m Elevation Loss
    • Day 2: Brunswick Lake to Porteau Cove (Highway 99)
      • 9 km
      • 100 m Elevation Gain
      • 1250 m Elevation Loss 

Notes & Thoughts

If you still have your legs and want to push on past Magnesia Meadows, Brunswick Lake is another great spot to camp only 4km further down the trail. It’s easier going after reaching Magnesia Meadows and almost all downhill and not technical. An early start on day 1 makes this itinerary feasible, if a shorter day is preferred/required on day 2.

Howe Sound Crest Trail

Howe Sound Crest Trail in 2 Night 3 Days

    • Day 1: Cypress Mountain to between Unnecessary Mountain and the Lions.
      • Approx. 9 to10 km
      • Approx.  ~850 m to1000 m Elevation Gain
      • Approx.  300 m Elevation Loss
    • Day 2: Between Unnecessary Mountain and the Lions to Brunswick Lake
      •  Approx. ~ 8.5 km to 10 km
      • Approx.  600 m to 800 m Elevation Gain
      • Approx.  650 m Loss 
    • Day 3: Brunswick Lake to Porteau Cove (Highway 99)
      •  9 km
      • 100 m Elevation Gain
      • 1250 m Loss 

Notes & Thoughts

Campsite selection is a bit janky when we add an extra day and attempt to even out the mileage. Ultimately, you’re forced to seek out a site somewhere between Unnecessary Mountain and the West Lion, ideally near the couple tarns to the south of the main trail. Despite the small mileage, day 2 may still feel challenging as you navigate the more challenging sections of the trail. The lower km count is helpful here (vs. the one night itineraries). The hike out on Day 3 is smooth sailing from Brunswick Lake to the highway. 

Packing List Breakdown for the Howe Sound Crest Trail

Since I first hiked the Howe Sound Crest Trail, I’ve changed my gear setup quite a bit and moved towards a lightweight setup. Backpacking trips like this or the Rockwall Trail are a lot more enjoyable when you’re carrying less weight, making it easier to cover more distance in less time.

That said, if you’re new to backpacking, don’t stress out about buying the latest and greatest equipment. Save money and use things you already own  or borrow things from a friend. Later, when you’ve gained more experience, modify your kit and change out gear as you get a better understanding of what creature comforts you can and can’t live without.

With this in mind, here’s a list of gear suggestions for taking this trip.

Essential Gear to Pack

Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 Tent in Sequoia National Park at Rae Lakes
My Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 Tent in Sequoia National Park.

Tent

I upgraded to Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 last year.  It’s semi-freestanding (needs to be staked), double walled and weighs in at a mere 2.5 lbs. Unlike many 2-person tents, it doesn’t have a tapered floor and can fit 2 extra wide sleeping pads side-by-side with no overlap. A rare feature in this class of tent!  It’s cozy, but workable for two and palatial for one!  I debated between this tent and the MSR Freelite and ultimately chose the MH as it was in-stock. The MH Strato doesn’t seem to be as readily available in Canada, so you may want to go for the MSR Freelite to avoid the risk of paying duty shipping the MH from a retailer in the US.  Ultimately, both are a great lightweight tents with similar features, but feel very fragile given their lightweight components.  If you’re looking for more durability/resilience these aren’t the tents for you. 

If you’re looking for a completely freestanding tent that offers more durability, check out the Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2. It’s unique blend of functionality, livability, weight, and durability earn high praise and Big Agnes’s customer service is outstanding!  

osprey exos backpack
Me using the Osprey Exos in Zion National Park

Hiking Backpack

If you’re relatively new to backpacking and building out your kit slowly, there is nothing wrong with using a large size travel backpack with a decent suspension system and padded hipbelt or borrowing a pack from a friend. This gives you time to decide what features you need and whether or not backpacking (and the gear) is something you’re going to invest in.  When I first started backpacking, I used my Khmer Explorer Travel Set on the West Coast Trail and Sunshine Coast Trail which worked great despite my poor packing skills (don’t recommend backpacking with 55lbs…)!  

If you’ve begun dialing in your backpacking kit,  check out the Gregory Focal or Women’s specific Facet. At ~2.5lbs these packs provide a great compromise between barebones ultralight packs and the heavier feature laden packs. The Osprey Exos (men’s) & Eja (women’s) backpacks are also great packs comparable in features and weight.  

If you’re ready to go to an extreme level of gram counting and have eliminated all creature comforts check out the Hyperlite 3400 southwest. It’s 100% waterproof and constructed from ultra light dyneema fabric. Being ultralight, you’ll sacrifice features, so if you hate getting a swampy back (that’s me) you may prefer the Osprey or Gregory despite the weight penalty. Backpacking gear is always a zero sum game! 

Sleeping Mat

I used to have terrible sleeps in the backcountry until I switched to the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xlite. It’s incredibly lightweight, comfortable and packs down to the size of a Nalgene bottle. This is probably one of my favorite backpacking items! Try it out. You won’t regret it. Sleep well!

Backpacking Pillow

Yes, you can sleep with a pillow not made of bunched up clothes in the backcountry.  I love the Nemo Fillo Elite, but they’re harder to find in Canada. Fortunately, the Therm-a-Rest Head Down Pillow is a similar concept, weight and size. 

Patagonia Sleeping Bag in a tent

Sleeping Bag

I can’t speak highly enough of Patagonia’s Fitz Roy sleeping bags I invested in one several years ago. It’s unbelievably lightweight and packs down small. I found the 30°F / -1°C to be perfect for most outings. Like all Patagonia products, it’s not cheap, but they stand behind their gear and the quality matches the price point. If you spend a lot of time in colder environments they also make a 20°F / -7°C version.  These bags are a very worthwhile splurge you won’t be disappointed in.

If you’re looking for an even lighter-weight option, consider going for a sleeping bag quilt. Feathered Friends  Flicker UL Quilt Sleeping Bag has won numerous awards and is a stalwart among ultralight backpackers. With a weight starting at  526 g (1 lb 2.5 oz), I can see why!  

Water Purification

I love the Steripen. It’s light, portable and only takes minutes to purify a liter of water in a Nalgene. Press the button, place the pen in your bottle, and stir for a couple minutes. It’s like magic! Make sure to bring a few purification tablets as a backup should you run into any technical problems/dead battery with your Steripen.

Swiss Army Knife

Fixing gear, cutting food, a swiss army knife is your go to everything too for backpacking.

Stove & Fuel

Lightweight, convenient, and reliable, the MSR pocket rocket has been my go to backpacking stove for years.

Lighter & Matches

A bring a small baby Bic lighter (in a mini-ziplock to keep it dry) & a few matches as a failsafe.

Cookset

I love the GSI Halulite Microdualist II, Two-person cookset. It’s lightweight and I can fit my MSR pocket rocket and a fuel canister inside. If you don’t already have a stove, consider the MSR PocketRocket Stove Kit for an all-inclusive solution.

Water Bottle

Nalgenes are always a backcountry favorite. If you’re cutting weight or looking for a way to save a buck, a simple smart water is the go-to for ultralight backpackers. I’ve recently moved to a hydration reservoir as it allows me to stay hydrated continuously without stopping to grab and open a bottle.

Extra Water storage

Extra water storage capacity makes cooking that much easier and camp life more enjoyable so make sure to invest in something like the MSR DromLite Bag V2. It’s also a must for a trip without reliable water sources like the Howe Sound Crest Trail (later in the year) where hauling more water may be essential.

First Aid Kit

From blisters, to scrapes, and cuts. A first aid kit is an essential item to have.  The pre-built kits from Adventure Medical Kits have served me well on many adventurers. At the end of your trip write down any items you used and replace them so they’re ready for your next adventure.

Trowel, Toilet Paper, & Hand Sanitizer

The HSCT does not have any established outhouses, so you’ll  need  a trowel to dig a cathole when nature calls.  Follow minimum impact camping principals and go at least 200m away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.).  Pack your TP out, I know it’s gross, but just do it. 

Don’t forget a  small bottle (1 oz) of hand sanitizer.

Hiking Poles

I thought poles where only used by retirees trekking the Swiss Alps, then I completed the Howe Sound Crest Trail and my knees screamed at me for the next week. My overweight pack and lack of poles were to blame. Poles are great for reducing the strain of long grueling descents and providing extra stability on exposed sections. They let you hike faster and further with less pain and strain! Invest in a pair and you’ll never go back. Poles vary widely in price and style with weight/material having the largest influence on price.  Even an inexpensive pair will be helpful! I’ve had great luck with these Leki’s, but Black Diamond poles are also great. 

Headlamp

The Spot 500-R is the way to go with 9 modes including the night vision saving red light!  Red light mode takes a minute to get used to, but once you do it’s a total game changer trust me! The stars never looked so good!  The Spot 500-R is rechargable, but with a batter life of over 19 hrs on medium and 7hrs on high it should get you through the trip!

Bear Spray

When traveling in bear country, Bear Spray is a must. Make sure to remove the packaging and check the expiration date before heading out.

Bear Canister or Ursack * Don't Forget

Keeping your food safe from bears is an essential part of keeping you safe and being a responsible backpacker. The Howe Sound Crest Trail doesn’t offer any food storage so bring a bear canister to keep your food safe. They’re bulky, they’re annoying to pack, but they work well as stools and are far more convenient and effective than hanging your food. For several people go with the BV500 for solo adventures the BV450 works great.  To save weight Ursacks are also a great option, but they need to be tied to a tree and don’t prevent your food from being crushed and smashed by a hungry bear.

Don”t overlook safe food storage, as if a bear gets into your food it will need to be destroyed.  End of story. 

GPS, Compass & Map

Download the GAIA app for maps and gps. I always bring a traditional compass and topographic map as well in the case of technical problems or dead batteries.

Luxury Items to Pack

These items are extreme luxuries, but may be worth it depending on your weight priorities and the distance you plan to cover. I’d only  consider these items on a low distance or base camp style hike given their added weight and bulk. 

Backpacking Chair

After a long day on the trail there’s nothing better than finding a nice comfortable spot to rest your weary glutes. Check out the Big Agnes Mica Basin Camp Chair or the Helinox Chair One.  Both weigh around 1kg, and are light enough to justify bringing on slower/easier backpacking trips where weight isn’t as big of consideration or for trips where you’re taking day trips from an established base camp.

Hammock at the North Rim Campground at the Grand Canyon
Double Nest Hammock at the North Rim Campground in Grand Canyon National Park

Hammock

If you’ve never strung up a hammock between two trees deep in the backcountry you’re missing out! Nothing beats getting horizontal with some great reading material in the pre-dinner hours or taking in an amazing sunset from your own outdoor couch.  The ENO Double Nest has room for two and at ½ kg  it’s hardly even a splurge to pack.  P.S don’t forget the straps to hang it.

Clothing & Accessories to Pack

Shell Jacket

An essential piece for wind, rain, and snow. The Arc’teryx Beta shell is the best all around shell jacket. This shell performs in all adverse conditions and is the perfect outer layer for rainy days, or cool nights. Arc’teryx gear is expensive, but impeccably designed. I was skeptical for years, until I purchased a few pieces of their trail running gear and got hooked. If you’re looking for the best reviewed hiking shell out there, this is the one. 

For another excellent option that is more economical,  check out the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L

Puff Jacket

I’ve had the Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody for years and it works great on it’s own or underneath a shell for extra warmth. It’s a perfect multi-functional item for everyday, backpacking, and pretty much anything where you might need a bit of warmth. I’m still looking for an activity it doesn’t work for. 

Rainpants

You leave camp on sunny day breaking sweat over a pass, only to have storm clouds roll in an hour later and dump sleet on you. Rainpants are lifesaver for rapidly changing mountain weather!  Many have the functionality for quickly taking them on and off without removing your shoes/boots allowing you to stay comfortable even if you get caught in a sudden downpour.  I’ve been happy with the Black Diamond StormLine Rain PantsThe Patagonia Torrentshell pants are also a great option. 

Sun hoodie

When I went backpacking in the Grand Canyon a few years back, I was shocked to see throngs of Arizona Trail thru-hikers wearing hoodies in the  40 C heat. Turns out they weren’t just lost tech bros in the Grand Canyon, they were really onto something! A sun hoodie has been one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking kit. They keep you burn free, are surprisingly cool, and let you get away with leaving the bottle of sunscreen at home (or bringing way less). The Sahara Sun Hoodie from REI is one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking wardrobe and you can’t beat the price. 

Zip Off / Convertible Hiking Pants

I never thought I’d see the day I embraced the zip-off pant. But hey, they’re really the best of both worlds for rapidly changing mountain environments and keeping warm in the evening when the temperature drops. Check out the Quandary Pant for a great option.

A pair of shorts

In addition to hiking pants, it’s nice to have a pair of shorts to change into after a long day on the trail or as a backup option. Trail running shorts are light and comfortable. 

Base layer top

In addition to a sun hoodie, I also bring one base layer top to change into at camp or have as an alternate. The Capilene Cool trail  t-shirts work great for me on long hikes and trail runs, but pretty much any athletic quick-dry top will work fine. 

Base Layer Bottom

A merino wool or synthetic bottom baselayer is perfect for warming up at night or during chilly mornings.

Underwear

I’ve had the best luck with Patagonia underwear for hiking, trail running, mountain biking and skiing and found them to be more durable than the more expensive ones from lululemon. I usually bring a 2-3 pair depending on trip length. 

3 Pairs of Hiking Socks

Darn Tough Vermont makes the best hiking socks hands down. They’re guaranteed for life/replaced free of charge and they don’t stink. Really! I typically bring 3 pair. 1 pair for hiking, 1 pair to change into at camp, and a reserve to throw into the rotation as needed. 

Gloves

I typically bring a thin weatherproof pair of trail running gloves, like these

Sun Hat & Winter Hat/Toque

A cap or Tilley hat keeps your face protected from the intense mountain sun. A toque is great for warming up during chilly mornings or evenings. 

Sunglasses

Protect your eyes, don’t forget to bring your Sunglasses!

Trail Runners or Boots - Are Trail Runners or Hiking Boots Better for the HSCT?​

The answer here is it depends! If you have your backpack weight down to less than 20-25lbs and have a decent amount of backpacking experience, trail runners are the way to go during the summer months. If you’re going at a time when snowfall and colder weather are a possibility go with boots. Boots are also a better choice if you have a heavier pack and are newer to backpacking as they provide more stability and sturdiness. You also feel rough sections of the trail substantially less on the base of your feet!  

For cold weather or if I need to carry more weight I’ll use my Scarpa Kailash Hiking Boots.  During the summer months and with a light load I’d wear my La Sportiva Bushido II.

Camp Shoes

Crocs are back! Well for backpacking camp shoes they never left… They’re lightweight and ugly as ever. Many backpackers find them to be the perfect camp shoe for resting sore feat after a long day in boots/shoes.

Personally, I still hate them. I have an old pair of Tom’s which I occasionally bring. They are light and less bulky than Crocs. If going with a trail runner, I’ll often ditch the camp shoe altogether and just loosen my laces. Your call!  

Microspikes

Kahtoola Microspikes slip effortlessly over your boots and make walking on snow and ice a breeze. These are absolutely essential for early season travel.

Low Gaiters

Low gaiters are perfect for keeping rocks, sand, and snow out of your trail runners/boots and preventing blisters.

Toothbrush & Toothpaste

I recently started packing these toothpaste tabs in a tiny plastic bag/ziplock to save more space.

Duct Tape (For Repairs and Blisters)

Food

Everyone has different takes and caloric requirements, so I’m not going to tell you exactly what to bring. I generally avoid the just add water meals you find at REI or MEC.  They’re overpriced and often don’t rehydrate as you’d like. Check out these incredible soups and chilis they taste better, are made with better ingredients, and are less expensive. As another option,  I head to the grocery store and search for things like lentil rice, ramen, or plant-based mac & cheese. They’re basically just add/boil quickly meals and taste like real food. Always rebag/repack this type of food as there is no reason to carry unnecessary packaging on the trail.

Final thoughts on hiking the Howe Sound Crest Trail

The Howe Sound Crest Trail offers an incredible backcountry experience to properly prepared adventurers. If you have questions drop me a note in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help you out! Happy hiking friend! 

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View along the Rockwall Trail towards Floe Lake.

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