Grand Canyon Backpacking | Ultimate Rim to Rim to Rim Guide

North Kaibaba Trail on the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim

Backpacking the Grand Canyon inevitably ends up on every adventurer’s bucket list.  For a backpacker visiting the Grand Canyon for the first time, the 21 mile journey (33.8 km) from the South Rim to the North Rim is the ultimate trip to cut your teeth.   You’ll descend the South Kaibab Trail deep into the Grand Canyon to the Colorado River before climbing a punishing 5700ft (1700m) up the North Kaibab trail to the Grand Canyon’s quieter North Rim.

Perhaps, the only better way to backpack the Grand Canyon for the first time is to do it all over again in reverse  for an epic backpacking trip known as the rim to rim to rim (R2R2R2).  During the late spring, summer and fall when the North Rim is open and shuttles are available, this add-on makes limited sense.  However, when the North Rim shuts down backpacking the Grand Canyon this way is an incredible opportunity to find a level of solitude unimaginable at other times of the year.  If you’re thinking about this trip, dreaming of this trip, or have secured a permit, this epic guide to backpacking the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim was written just for you. So, let’s stop with the formalities and dive right into it! 

There’s tons of detail in this post, so here is a quick, clickable summary of what you’ll find here:

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Need to know for backpacking the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim

Days Required: 2 – 7 days
Difficulty: Moderate, but extreme heat and weather can increase difficulty dramatically. 
Distance: 44.5 miles (72 km)
Elevation Gain: 10, 141 ft (3,090 m)
Elevation Loss:  10, 541 ft (3,210 m)
Permit Required: Yes, competitive.
Navigation: Easy, trails are very well marked.
Water Sources: Frequent potable water sources available between May and December.  Large portions of the Bright Angel and North Kaibab trails have access to water for purification year during the rest of the year. South Kaibab trail has no water. 
Food Storage: Provided at designated campsites.
Best Campsite Walked Past or Stayed At: Cottonwood (below the rim), but read section on the ultimate hack for backpacking the rim to rim to rim for a special campsite tip.  

Deer on Bright Angel Trail in the Grand Canyon

Things you'll love about backpacking the rim to rim to rim

    • Remarkable geology and natural scenery that will leave you awestruck at every turn.
    • Incredible trail infrastructure.
    • Established trail with no navigation required. 
    • Readily available potable water via taps at numerous points (seasonal and not on the South Kaibab).
    • Numerous campsites allow for very manageable daily mileage and different itineraries.
    • Opportunity to camp on the seasonally isolated North Rim.

Things you won't love about backpacking the rim to rim to rim

    • The squirrels. Take your eye off your bag for a second and they are in it.
    • The heat can be the most challenging factor.
    • Competitive permit process that requires using a fax machine.
    • Navigating the throngs of day hikers at the beginning (and end).
    • Keeping a constant ear out for trail runners coming in hot. 
    • Busy campsites that are close together with limited privacy. 
    • Did I mention it can get deathly hot?

How many days does it take to backpack the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim?

A backpacking trip of the Grand Canyon’s rim to rim to rim is typically done in 4-7 days.

That said, you’re likely to encounter many ambitious trail runners and a few speed hikers pushing to complete the 44.5 mile (72 km) rim to rim to rim in one very, very long day.

Fortunately, backpacking allows the benefit of time to enjoy the splendor of the Grand Canyon, not to mention some of the best night skies you’ll see in your life. So, less mileage is often more enjoyment. We spent 6 nights on the trail and that was absolutely perfect.  I’m not sure I would’ve wanted to move much faster since we had daily high temperatures approaching 110 Fahrenheit (45 degrees Celsius) on several occasions.

For fit, ultralight backpackers this trip could be done in as little as 2 days, spending 1 night on the North Rim. That said, the heat in the Grand Canyon adds a whole new variable that can force schedule interruptions on even upon the most determined hikers.

How hard is it to backpack the Grand Canyon?

The rim to rim to rim backpacking trip in the Grand Canyon is a deceivingly challenging hike.

On one hand, the corridor trails that make up the R2R2R2 route (South Kaibab, North Kaibab, and Bright Angel) are impeccably maintained, require no navigation skills, campsites feature numerous amenities, and potable water is readily available during many times of the year. 

On the other hand, the Canyon coaxes you into a false sense of security with its upside down mountain topography. You start with the ease of descending and gravity on your side, you finish working against it. You’ll descend 4780 ft (1450 m) from the top of the south rim only to climb 5700ft (1700m) up to the North Rim, before doing it all over again in reverse.

The biggest challenge you may face is the elements. The intense sun and searing heat, lack of shade (especially on the South Kaibab), and lack of water and requirement to haul extra (exacerbated during non-peak season when many taps are shut off) are variables unique to those unfamiliar with desert hiking. The heat can be so intense that you’ll find yourself kneeling with gratitude at the smallest amount of shade and setting your alarm earlier each day in a futile attempt to beat the worst of it. 

During the winter, fall and spring, cold weather is also a major part of the equation. Snow, ice and below freezing temperatures are commonplace higher on the South Rim and the North Rim. 

Ultimately,  backpacking the rim to rim to rim can be tough, but with proper planning and respect for the environmental conditions, most backpackers encounter no issues. 

North Kaibab Trail

How do you get a permit to backpack the Grand Canyon?

To backpack in the Grand Canyon you need a permit which is obtained through an antiquated process that involves either sending a fax, mailing the permit request or dropping it off at the North or South rim information center. 

Permit requests are accepted during the 10 day period, 4 months before the month of your desired start date.  If you wish to hike in November, you would submit your completed permit application anytime between June 20 and July 1. The order permits are received doesn’t matter, this period is simply the window in which applications are accepted. Once the deadline passes you’ll receive a response within a couple of weeks.

To complete the application one member of your group will need to complete the permit request form with your group size and desired itinerary (nightly camp location). Additional details and complete instructions on backcountry permits can be found here

To maximize your chances of obtaining a permit follow this common sense logic:

    • Maximize your flexibility by creating a first and second choice and selecting as many of the options in the additional choices section of the application as you can. That means:
      • Selecting a big window for alternative start dates or the entire month, if possible.
      • Selecting a lower minimum number of nights (know your limits and conditioning though).
      • Selecting a lower minimum group size. There’s always one friend you kinda want to drop anyways…

With this sage wisdom you’ll hopefully score a permit and ideally write an even better blog post than this after your epic backpack through the Grand Canyon, thereby saving future readers the misery you’re presently enduring in reading this one…

 

Do you need a park entrance pass if you have a backcountry permit for the Grand Canyon?

Yes, you require a park entrance pass even if you have a permit for backpacking the Grand Canyon. The lines to pay entrance fees at the gate can be long, so make sure to purchase your entrance pass in advance to save time. 

America the Beautiful Annual Pass if the best bet if you plan on visiting multiple parks or multiple times within the year of purchasing it. The Grand Canyon charges $35 per vehicle for a 7 day pass, so it doesn’t take many visits to National Parks or federal public lands to pay back the $80 dollar cost of the America the Beautiful Annual Pass

You can also pre-purchase your 7-day entrance fee at recreation.gov if this is the only time you’ll be visiting a National Park this year.

Which direction should you hike?

The rim to rim to rim trail is started from the South Rim, taking either Bright Angel Trail or the South Kaibab trail down before ascending the North Kaibab to the North Rim and then doubling back. The primary reason for this is the seasonal closure of the North Rim that typically begins on the 1st of December until May 15. 

Should you hike the Grand Canyon rim to rim or rim (R2R2R) to rim to rim (R2R)?

When the North Rim is closed to vehicles you’ll only have the option to hike the rim to rim to rim if you wish to complete this hike in its entirety. This provides a couple of advantages. You can camp on deserted North Rim (more on that below) and you will run into fewer and fewer people the further you get from the South Rim. Purely from a solitude perspective, the R2R2R takes the cake while the North Rim is closed to vehicle access.  It will take double the time thought, so this itinerary might not be feasible for everyone. 

During the later spring, summer and fall months when the North Rim is open, I’d gravitate towards doing the R2R as you get no real benefit from the extra days and mileage at this time of year aside from getting to look at the views in reverse, spending more time in the grand canyon, and avoiding a 4-hour shuttle ride.

View from the Bright Angel Trail

Which trails do you hike for the rim to rim to rim?

The most popular and recommended way to backpack (or hike) the R2R2R is to begin your hike by descending the South Kaibab trailhead. After climbing the North Kaibab and returning to Phantom Ranch you’ll be faced with a choice of climbing the South Kaibab or hiking up the Bright Angel Trail. Despite being 2 miles longer, Bright Angel is the wiser choice, especially if there is any kind of heat whatsoever. The South Kaibab is relentlessly exposed with virtually no shade and no opportunity for water. Descending it at the heat of the day on an unexpectedly hot day in April left us completely bagged, I couldn’t have imagined hiking up in these conditions. The smart choice here is to ascend Bright Angel as it provides numerous opportunities for water and shade making the already challenging experience of climbing out of the Grand Canyon significantly more enjoyable. 

When is the best time to hike the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim?

If you can secure a permit, April is the ideal month to hike the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim. The heat typically is not yet in full force (It did get to over 110, so extreme heat is still possible), the likelihood of winter conditions (ice, snow) at the higher elevations is reduced, the days are long, and the North Rim is still closed. Hiking the R2R2R while the North Rim is closed affords a couple key advantages. First, it reduces some of the day hiker traffic descending from the North Rim (although according to the park service only around 10% of visitors to the Grand Canyon visit the North Rim) and most importantly it provides an unprecedented way to obtain some solitude on what is a very busy trail by spending a night camping on the North Rim.

The ultimate rim to rim to rim backpacking hack : Book a night on the North Rim and beat the crowds

I was lucky enough to speak to an informative ranger before requesting our permit who was kind enough to advise me that despite the North Rim being closed, the campground remains open to backcountry travelers venturing from the Grand Canyon’s south side. As long as you’re equipped with warm enough gear for the high elevation of the North Rim, (the daily average low is 32F (0C) in April), this can be an incredible experience. With luck, you’ll have an empty campsite and the opportunity to explore the viewpoints of the North Rim in near isolation. 

Can you have campfires inside the Grand Canyon?

No, ​​fires are prohibited throughout the backcountry in Grand Canyon National Park. 

View from the South Kaibab Trailhead

How do you get to the South Kaibab Trailhead?

After parking your vehicle at the Backcountry Information Lot you’ll hop on the free Hikers’ Express shuttle bus to the South Kaibab trailhead. The hours change depending on the season, but they typically leave as early as possible to ensure hikers beat the heat. Check this page on the Grand Canyon’s site to determine the times the bus departs during your trip dates.

How do you get to the Bright Angel Trailhead?

The Bright Angel Trailhead is only a ¼ mile from the Backcountry Information Lot making a return to your vehicle seamless on completion of your trip. 

Food storage while backpacking the Grand Canyon

Metal food storage containers are provided at each campsite along the corridor trails of the Grand Canyon. If you’re planning an itinerary that includes campsites off the main corridor trails bring something to protect your food, like a ratsack

Squirrels in the Grand Canyon

Along the corridor trails one of the largest annoyances and potential dangers you’re likely to face is the Grand Canyon famous rock squirrels. It’s rumored that they hold the title for most dangerous animal in the Grand Canyon and this becomes immediately obvious after witnessing the behavior of the first squirrel you see. Extra caution is required! Do not leave your bag or clothing unattended and ensure all food is placed inside the metal food storage boxes. Leave your pack open and hanging from the metal bars at each campsite.  Apparently, this allows them to climb inside and take a look around before realizing there is nothing good to eat and thereby preventing them from chewing though your pack to investigate. Be extra aware of the squirrels nearest to the South Rim.  The high volume of day hiker traffic here seems to have further emboldened this cohort, likely due to many people feeding them. If you sit down and pull out a snack, you may look over to realize there is a squirrel uncomfortably close. You’ve been warned. 

How do I have dinner at Phantom Ranch?

In the middle of a long hard day of backpacking it’s only natural to have visions of your favorite dinner pop in and out of your head. Maybe it’s your favorite pizza, steak frites, or marinated tofu delight. Whatever your fancy, you’re usually constrained to dining on some form of dinner that involves adding boiling water to something dry. One benefit that comes with the sometimes diluted wilderness experience around Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch is your ability to treat your hiking buddy (or have them treat you) to a sit down meal at the Phantom Ranch Canteen. You’ll have your choice of steak, stew or vegetarian option at the heart of the Grand Canyon. A great meal and backpack weight savings all at once! Like any good restaurant, reservations are required, so make a booking for dinner well in advance if this is something that tickles your fancy. 

View approaching the top of Bright Angel Trail

Where to stay before hiking or backpacking the Grand Canyon

To ensure an early start and guarantee you catch the Hikers’ Express Shuttle Bus from the Backcountry Information Center it’s most convenient to spend the night before your hike close to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. The best option is to stay inside the park itself which allows for exploration of the rim area and historic district during the day before your hike. These options book up incredibly fast, so make your booking as soon as you’ve secured your permit. 

Best accommodation options inside Grand Canyon National Park

Camp at Mather Campground

The most economical option is to camp at one of the 327 campsites at Mather Campground in Grand Canyon Village. The campsites include all the amenities you’d expect plus flush toilets and potable water throughout the campground. If you’re tenting, Pine Loop is a tent-only area where generators are prohibited. Book a reservation on recreation.gov well in advance to secure a spot. 

Stay at one of the Grand Canyon’s historic lodges

Sometimes nothing beats a comfortable bed before (and after) multiple nights in the tent. Fortunately, the Grand Canyon offers numerous historic lodges to get a good night or two of sleep before heading out on your rim to rim to rim adventure. The majority of these are within easy walking distance of the Canyon Rim. 

El Tovar Hotel is considered to be the crown jewel of Historic National Park Lodges. Constructed in 1905 of local limestone and Oregon Pine, this historical hotel is located directly on the rim of the Grand Canyon. 

Bright Angel Lodge and Cabins – Another historic lodging option at the rim of the Grand Canyon. This lodge was originally constructed as a less expensive option to El Tovar. This National Historic Landmark features 90 rooms ranging from cozy lodge rooms (some with shared, some with private bathrooms) and several historic cabins. For one of a kind accommodation consider a stay at the historic Buckey O’Neill Cabin or Red Horse Cabin. You can find more information on these historic cabins and details on how to book them  here.

Kachina Lodge, Thunderbird Lodge, Yavapai Lodge and Maswik Lodge – These lodging options in Grand Canyon Village are slightly more contemporary than the first 2, but do offer more conventional hotel amenities still within easy access of the Canyon Rim. 

Hotels outside Grand Canyon National Park

If the options in the park are booked up there are several notable options just outside of the park gates in the small village of ​​Tusayan. Only 7 miles (11 km) south of the south rim is a suitable backup option that leaves a very manageable drive for the morning of your departure.The Grand Hotel at the Grand Canyon is most sought after choice here with several other decent chain hotel options available.

Trail sections and descriptions

The three trails that make up the rim to rim to rim of the Grand Canyon are referred to as the Corridor trails. These include the South Kaibab Trail, North Kaibab Trail, and Bright Angel Trail. The most common route for hiking rim to rim to rim is to descend the South Kaibab Trail to the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch. From there you’ll climb the North Kaibab trail to the North Rim before doubling back to Phantom Ranch and taking Bright Angel Trail back to the South Rim. The trail sections are broken down with descriptions in this order, 

Mule train coming up the South Kaibab Trail
If you encounter a mule train, move to the inside of the trail and listen for the mule driver's instructions

South Kaibab Trailhead to Bright Angel Campground

7 miles (11.3 KM)

4780 ft (1450 M) elevation loss

After disembarking from the Hikers’ Express Shuttle bus, take a moment to top up your water supplies (this tap is seasonal and may not be turned on until early May). This is your last chance to do so prior to reaching Phantom Ranch and you have 7 miles of very exposed hiking to get through with almost no shade.  After approaching the Canyon rim and dropping, in it doesn’t take long before you come across a series of switchbacks before traversing the slope in a straight shot until coming up on the sublime vista at the aptly named Ooh Ahh Point. You’re already 800ft  (250m) of descending in with plenty to go!

Hiker looks at the view from Ooh Ahh Point in the Grand Canyon

After Ooh’ing and Ahh’ing for as long as you feel is required, continue along the trail as it descends the ridgeline to Cedar Ridge where toilets (no water) are available to anyone feeling moved by the views… The South Kaibab continues its descent along the ridgeline before skirting around the west side of O’Neill Butte and descending to Skeleton Point. Depending on the season, you’ll likely be ready to de-layer by this point as you notice the substantial increase in temperature as you descend towards the canyon floor. After Skelton Point the trail drops down dramatically via a series of switchbacks which descend 650ft (200 m) of elevation in just over half a mile (1 km) towards the Tonto plateau.  By this section, hiker traffic thins substantially as all but the boldest, fittest or most naive day hikers have turned back.  After completing the switchbacks and continuing your descent at a rapid, but slightly more gradual pace you’ll reach the Tonto Plateau and a small rest stop at the Tipoff. The Tipoff has a shaded pavilion and toilers (no water) and is a terrific spot to have a snack, rehydrate, and embrace the shade before tackling the final leg of the South Kaibab. 

View looking down to the Colorado River on the South Kaibab Trail

The section following Tipoff can feel like a race against time, especially for those hiking in late spring, summer or during an unseasonably hot day.  In 1.5 miles (2.5 KM) from the Tipoff to the fork with River Trail you rapidly descends nearly 1280ft (390 m). Despite the rapid descent, you’ll do so without the major switchbacks you encountered earlier and almost no shade. We hiked during an unseasonably hot day in April where the temperature got to well over100 and this section felt like the most challenging of our entire hike.   The Park Service advises that everyone start hiking well before dawn or in the late afternoon during May to September and advises against being on the trail between 10 am – 3 pm to avoid medical risk and potential need for rescue.  So start early!   After reaching the fork with River trail continue to the right. head through the tunnel and across the Black bridge. 

Black Bridge Over the Colorado River from Boat Beach in the Grand Canyon

After crossing black bridge you’ll pass by Boat Beach ( a nice spot to check out on the Colorado River) before walking for another ½ mile to reach Bright Angel Campground, shade, and most importantly water.  

North Kaibab Trail

Bright Angel Campground to North Kaibab Trailhead or North Rim Campground

14 miles (22.5 KM)

5761 FT (1756 m) Elevation Gain

After leaving Bright Angel Campground and passing through Phantom Ranch the trail meanders alongside Bright Angel creek as the Grand Canyon enters one of its narrowest sections, the Inner Gorge or “the Box”. The hiking here is quite flat and easy, but with dark rock walls and low elevation this section can feel like the parking lot at a Phoenix Target in August, so once again, make sure to start early. 

the box area of the grand canyon

After leaving the Box, the trail remains a gradual incline for the entire 7.2 mi (11.6 km) stretch from Bright Angel to Cottonwood Campground. After negotiating a small hill around 5.5 miles from Bright Angel, you’ll have the option of making a wonderful side trip to the cool oasis of Ribbon Falls. 

This trip is well worth it and can also easily be made as a quick afternoon trip directly from Cottonwood campground, if you’re overnighting there. Going to Cottonwood first adds  a 1.6 miles (2.6 km) each way, but gets off the trail before the heat of the day and helps you secure a better campsite at Cottonwood by getting there early. 

To get to Ribbon Falls follow the path until you hit Bright Angel Creek before crossing and following the fork to the left to lower ribbon falls. If you have the energy, a longer trail (0.9 miles or 1.4 km)  forks right and climbs 330ft (100m) of elevation to the less visited Upper Ribbon Falls,   Note that at time of hiking the bridge to access to this trail was removed and an easy ford of Bright Angel Creek was required to access the trail to both upper and/or lower Ribbon Falls. 

Hiker rests by Ribbon Falls an Oasis in the Grand Canyon
taking in Ribbon Falls

After reaching Cottonwood campsite or overnighting there, you’ll hike for 1.4 miles (2.3KM) gaining about 390 ft (120 m) alongside Bright Angel Creek before crossing a final bridge to reach the Manzanita Rest Area.  Seasonal water taps are available at the Manzanita Rest area.  During the winter and spring months, you’ll a have a final opportunity to fill and treat water by taking the short, ¼ mile side trip to Roaring Springs which lies ⅔ mile (1.1 KM)  up from Manzanita Rest Area. Regardless of your water needs, the short side trip to Roaring springs is worthwhile as it brings you closer to the incredible stream of water that gushes out from the cliff above before making its way down to Bright Angel Creek below. Once you’re filled up and ready to get started, backtrack along Roaring Springs Trail back to the North Kaibab and take a breath. The big ascent is about to get started. 

For the next 1.7 miles (2.8 KM) after the junction with Roaring Springs the trail picks up nearly  1000ft (300 m) of elevation before reaching Redwall bridge. During this section you’ll pass along beautiful sections of trail with sheer cliff faces dropping off to the right hand side. For anyone afraid of heights, this section is the likeliest to potentially test your nerves. Fortunately, the wide trail provides ample room to hug the cliff wall so the exposure never feels truly frightening.  This section of the North Kaibab trail is stunning example of a time when trail construction involved blasting away giant sections of rock to accommodate a hiking trail.

Hiker takes in a view on the North Kaibab Trail

After descending slightly to Redwall Bridge you’ll begin another big uphill slog gaining close to 850ft (260 m) in 0.9 miles (1.4 KM) before reaching Supai Tunnel. Supai Tunnel offers a restroom and a seasonal water tap. At an elevation of 6800 ft (2073 m) you’ll begin to notice a change in both vegetation and temperature with large coniferous trees becoming more prevalent.

Redwall Bridge on the North Kaibab Trail
Supai Tunnel on the North Kaibab Trail

From the Supai tunnel the North Kaibab trail pushes on, snaking its way up another another 850ft (250m) of elevation with a dozen switchbacks over the next mile (1.6km) to the Coconino Overlook. Take a moment to savor the view here, as this is the last panoramic view you’ll get of the Canyon on the North Kaibab Trail. 

After enjoying the view, take a deep breath and crush out the final 0.6 mile (1 km) to the top of the North Kaibab Trailhead. Hopefully, you took a moment to enjoy the view from the Coconino Overlook, as the terminus of the North Kaibab is somewhat anticlimactic with no view to speak of. If time permits, consider the 2 mile (3.2 KM) easy trek to Bright Angel Point for a spectacular view back across the Grand Canyon. During the quiet months that North Rim is closed to vehicle traffic this trip is particularly worthwhile. If you’re fortunate enough to be camping on the North Rim, head west for just under a mile (1.4 KM) of easy walking to the BIker/Hiker section of the North Rim Campground on the far west side adjacent to the rim. After getting your site set up, ditch your big pack and take the 1.6 mile (2.6 KM) trail along the rim’s perimeter to Bright Angel Point. 

Hiker takes in the view from the Coconino Overlook
View from the Coconino Overlook

Return to Bright Angel Campground

14 miles (22.5 KM)​

5761 FT (1756 m) Elevation Loss

Double back the way that you came on the North Kaibab Trail following the same route until you reach Bright Angel Campground. Hopefully, you were able to enjoy a night on the North Rim. 

View down Bright Angel Trail to Indian Garden

Bright Angel Campground to Bright Angel Trailhead

9.5 miles (15.3 km)

4380 ft (1337 m) Elevation Gain

From Bright Angel Campground you’ll have the option to hike out on the South Kaibab Trail or take the recommended route out on Bright Angel Trail (see earlier section for the reasons why). From Bright Angel Campground  take the Silver Bridge to the west across the Colorado River. After crossing the river you’ll hike along sand dunes alongside the Colorado River for around 1.2 miles (1.9 km) until the trail begins its ascent back to the South Rim at the Pipe Creek drainage. At this point you’ll find the River Resthouse, a toilet and a convenient spot to fill up and treat water if you happened to forget to do so before leaving Bright Angel. 

You’ll begin your ascent up the Pipe Creek Drainage after departing the River Resthouse . For the first mile (1.6KM) the trail follows alongside Pipe Creek and picks up about 350ft of elevation (100m). After crossing the creek a final time, you’ll encounter a series of switchbacks called the Devil’ Corkscrew which rapidly gains another 500ft (150 M) of elevation. This section is likely to be one of the most unshaded parts you’ll encounter on Bright Angel Trail, so an early start (or late in the day) is recommended to ensure safe passage here. 

the Devils Corkscrew on Bright Angel Trail

The trail links up with Garden creek about a mile after starting the switchbacks of  Devil’s Corkscrew. From here, it’s a gradually elevated mile (1.6 KM) along the creek gully to Havasupai Gardens Campground.  Just before reaching Havasupai Gardens Campground the trail forks with an option to hike out to Plateau point or gain access to the westbound side of the Tonto Trail. The trip to see the view from Plateau Point (1.4 miles or 2.3 km one-way) is a worthwhile side trip if you have the time. 

After staying the night at Havasupai Gardens or stopping to refill and refuel, it’s time to buckle up for the final push back to the South Rim. Following the Garden Creek drainage the trail gains around 500ft (150 m) in the first mile before rapidly gaining another 330ft (100m) in a series of switchbacks to reach 3 Mile Resthouse.  Fortunately, the rest stop provides ample opportunity to catch your breath before the next big push. By this point of your hike, you’ll notice an increase in the trail traffic as you start to encounter a higher frequency of day hikers coming down from the South Rim. 

Morning light from Havasupai Gardens Campground

When you’re feeling re-energized and ready for more elevation push towards the 1.5 Mile Resthouse 1.5 Miles (2.4 KM) up the trail. Nearly a dozen switchbacks and nearly 1000 ft of elevation gain (300 m) separate you from the final rest stop on your rim to rim to rim journey. As you continue upward, take a look back and see where you’ve come from looking for Havasupai Gardens way down below. After the final rest stop of your adventure summon your legs for the final set of switchbacks that lead you up the last 1.5 miles and 1100 ft (340m) of elevation to the Bright Angel Trailhead.  

 

Congratulations, you’ve just completed the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim.

Final part of Bright Angel Trail before the SOuth Rim

Campsites in the Grand Canyon on the rim to rim

Along the corridor trails you’re limited to camping in the established campsites which serve as a sufficient place to bunk down with some incredible dark sky views over the canyon walls. The night skies and sublime mesas and canyon walls that adorn every section of the Grand Canyon more than make up for the somewhat lackluster campsites themselves. Many of the sites are close together, with limited privacy. The vast majority of backpackers are respectful of lights out times and quiet time, but bring ear plugs for the one night you inevitably come across a snorer or someone that fails to observe the rules.

Bright Angel Campground

Located near historic Phantom Ranch and near the confluence of Bright Angel Creek and the Colorado River, this is the busiest campground along the Corridor trails. It is also my least favorite. The 30 small campsites are close together with limited privacy, the squirrels are relentless (unquestionably due to the constant prevalence of easy meals) and the cantina, restaurant, and lodging at Phantom Ranch take away slightly from the backpacking/backcountry experience. Not to mention the flush toilets and running water. The entire experience at Bright Angel Campground feels more analogous to car camping than backpacking. All this said, it still has many things to love especially for a one night stay. Bright Angel Creek runs right through it and the cold water is balm to any weary joints and muscles. The site also provides easy access to an incredible beach along the Colorado River that more than makes up for the sleep you’re likely to lose from your neighboring backpacker’s snoring. 

Havasupai Gardens Campground (f.k.a. Indian Gardens)

This is an excellent final night option if you plan on exciting your trip via the Bright Angel Trailhead. The 15 small group sites lie 4.8 miles from the South Rim and about halfway up the Bright Angel Trail making for a relaxed half day hike to exit. The campsites are quite close together with some offering more privacy than others. It’s situated in a beautiful cottonwood grove and adjacent to a small creek. Staying here also provides easy access to add on trips along the Tonto Trail or Plateau point. 

Cottonwood Camground

Camping at Cottonwood is a delight. It’s a smallish campground with 15 sites located 7.2 miles (11.6 km) from Bright Angel Campground on the North Kaibab Trail. This site feels a little more spacious and private than both Indian Garden and Bright Angel and this was definitely my favorite site below the rim. Bright Angel creek bubbles joyfully alongside providing several incredible spots to cool down or soak and relax. Sleeping here was a delight with mesas rising from all around the campground to provide an enchanting silhouettes in contrast to some of the most incredible stars you’ll ever see. Earplugs may still be required, but this site is not even on the same level as Bright Angel. Look for a couple sites on the left as you head toward the North Rim after passing the toilets.  Potable water is seasonal here, so ensure you have a treatment method if traveling between the middle of October and the middle of May. 

tent at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon
Camping at the North RIm - No one around!

North Rim Campground - Winter Camping

As I mentioned before, I believe staying a night on the North Rim is the ultimate hack for hiking the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim. It can be very cold at night with the possibility of waking up to snow. That said, the solitude provided here is unmatched by any of the other campsites on the R2R2R2.  You need to be prepared with proper layers and sleeping gear. We camped here and had the entire place to ourselves which was quite the change from the chaos of Bright Angel Campground. You’ll set up camp in the section near the canyon rim at the west end of the campground about a 1 mile walk from the North Kaibab Trailhead.  The view here is breathtaking! Additionally, you can explore the lookout at Bright Angel Point without another person anywhere in sight. The entire experience of staying here in winter feels almost post-apocalyptic .Ultimately, I believe staying here also makes for a much more enjoyable experience hiking the North Kaibab Trail as it provides an epic conclusion to the day. Otherwise, you’ll reach the trailhead (which has no view) after the big push up and turn around.

Itinerary options for backpacking the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim

There are numerous ways to structure an itinerary for backpacking the Grand Canyon rim rim to rim depending on your desired mileage, your fitness level, and the weather conditions/season. When planning your itinerary, note that both Havasupai Gardens Campground and Bright Angel Campground offer several great options for day hiking off the main corridor trails which may make them worthy of an extra night’s stay! Simply add another night or 2 to these campsites on your permit request. These base camp stops get you day hiking off the highly trafficked corridor trails, not to mention the reprieve of lightening your load for a day of exploration. 

Remember when planning your itinerary, it’s critical to recognize that the Grand Canyon is a place of extremes where both heat and snow/ice can impact trip feasibility. On our trek through the Grand Canyon at the end of April we watched our daily wakeup time increase to a nadir of 3:00 am in a futile effort to bike before the heat during an unseasonably warm spell. Best be prepared for the unexpected. 

 

With this in mind, let’s take a look at a few options:

hikere near Havasupai Gardens Campground

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 2 days 1 night

    • Day 1 : South Rim to North Rim Campground via South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trails
      • 21 miles (33.8 KM)  (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 5761 ft (1750 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780 ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2: North Rim Campground to South Rim via North Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails
      •  23.5 miles (37.8 km)  (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4380 ft (1337 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1750 m)
 

Itinerary notes

This is an extreme itinerary that is not to be taken lightly and is only recommended for experienced backpackers and thru hikers that have experience with pushing 25+ mile days.  This length of mileage is challenging backpacking anywhere, but the climate and environment of the Grand Canyon may at times make these distances impossible, completely unenjoyable, and often dangerous.  In the late fall, winter and early spring, snow and ice cannot be ruled out and may dramatically slow down your pace. In the spring or fall, unseasonal temperatures have the potential to make the Grand Canyon dangerously hot, making hiking during mid-day hours nearly impossible. If you’re thinking about taking this on, recognize that you may be forced to spend a significant part of your trek hiking in the dark and know your limits. Less is often more in the Grand Canyon, but if you’re limited on time and have the experience and conditioning, this might be the itinerary for you. 

View looking down to Havasupai Gardens Campground

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 3 days 2 night

    • Day 1 : South Rim to Cottonwood Campground via South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trail
      • 14.2 miles (22.9KM)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600ft  (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780 ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Trailhead and then Back to Bright Angel Campground
      • 20.8 miles (33.4 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4160 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5760 ft (1756m)
    • Day 3 Bright Angel Campground to South Rim via Bright Angel
      • 9.5 mi (15.3 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4380 ft (1337 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible

Itinerary notes​

Completing a R2R2R backpacking trip in 3 days is no small feat with several tough days and one seriously long day. Similar to the sprint of doing it in 1 night, this trip is only recommended for individuals very comfortable with their backpacking abilities and some knowledge of the conditions/extremes one is likely to encounter here. The first day provides for an early morning descent down the South Kaibab and the opportunity to take some time to cool down and wait out the heat (as applicable) in the Phantom Ranch Area. In the later afternoon or on cooler days, the section between Phantom Ranch and Cottonwood is smooth sailing. Day 2 is the most challenging, requiring an early departure from Cottonwood on days where heat may be a factor. The final day features shorter mileage with significant elevation gain made manageable by the availability of water and shade along the Bright Angel Trail. The downside of this itinerary is the lack of time it affords to experience or camp at the North Rim. Additionally, I found Havasupai Gardens Campground to be nicer than Bright Angel, but this itinerary makes camping here for the last night logistically awkward. Or maybe it’s just a good excuse to get a dinner reservation at Phantom Ranch for your last night in the Grand Canyon.

Hiker on the North Kaibab Trail

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 4 days 3 nights

    • Day 1: South Rim to Cottonwood Campground via South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trail
      • 14.2 miles (22.9KM)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600ft  (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780 ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM)  (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to North Rim Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4161 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 3 North Rim Campground to Bright Angel Campground
      • 14 mi (22.5 km)  (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1756 m)
    • Day 4 Bright Angel Campground to South Rim via Bright Angel
      • 9.5 mi (15.3 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4380 ft (1337 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible 

Itinerary notes​

Completing the rim to rim to rim in 4 days and 3 nights is likely the choice for you if you seriously considered doing it in 2 days, but really wanted the opportunity to stay a night on the North Rim. This itinerary groups heavy mileage with heavy descending and low mileage with ascending. The only downside here is the requirement to stay at Bright Angel on the last night vs the nice Havasupai Gardens Campground. That said, get a dinner reservation at Phantom Ranch and it might be the perfect way to spend your last evening in the Grand Canyon. 

The North Kaibab Trail near the Box area

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 5 days 4 nights

    • Day 1: South Rim to Cottonwood Campground via South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trail
      • 14.2 miles (22.9KM)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600ft  (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780 ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) to North Kaibab Trailhead (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4161 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 3 North Rim Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1756 m)
    • Day 4 Cottonwood Campground to Havasupai Garden Campground (North Kaibab Trail & Bright Angel
      • 7.2 mi (11.6 km) + 4.7 mi (7.6 km) = 11.9 mi (19.2 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1320 ft (400 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 1600 ft (480 m)
    • Day 5 Havasupai Garden to South Rim via Bright Angel Trail
      • 4.8 mi (7.7 km) 
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 3060 ft (930 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible 

Itinerary notes​

This might just be the perfect itinerary for hiking the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim. The daily mileage is manageable with one long day that is primarily descending.  Additionally, you’ll avoid staying at my least favorite campground (Bright Angel), and have plenty of time to take in the splendor of the Grand Canyon. ’d likely choose this route, if I were to do this trip over again. The biggest consideration you’ll  here is ensuring you get a very early start on day 1. If you don’t start early enough and the heat becomes unbearable, you may be forced to pitstop for a couple hours at Phantom Ranch between 10 am – 3 pm. The same goes for Day 4 when you’ll hike from Cottonwood to Havasupai Garden.

View from the North Rim

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 6 days 5 nights

    • Day 1: South Rim to Bright Angel Campground via South Kaibab Trail
      •  7.0 mi (11.3 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Bright Angel Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      •  7.2 mi (11.6 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600 ft (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 3 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) to North Kaibab Trailhead (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4161 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 4 North Rim Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1756 m)
    • Day 5 Cottonwood Campground to Havasupai Garden Campground (North Kaibab Trail & Bright Angel)
      • 11.9 mi (19.2 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1320 ft (400 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 1600 ft (480 m)
    • Day 6 Havasupai Garden to South Rim via Bright Angel Trail
      • 4.8 mi (7.7 km) 
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 3060 ft (930 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible

Itinerary notes​

Daily mileage is very manageable and affords the ability to avoid hiking during hot temperatures if you encounter them. This was the itinerary that we hiked on our rim to rim to rim trek. In ideal hiking conditions it may have felt a little relaxed, but with unseasonal temperatures well over 100F, we were happy to have the time.  We’d start hiking shortly before sunrise and finish many days before 11am.  Day 2 will be short with limited elevation gain, but this provides the option of setting up camp and then using the afternoon to hike to and relax at nearby Ribbon Falls. 

View to Bright Angel Campground from the South Kaibab Trail

Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim in 7 days 6 nights

    • Day 1: South Rim to Bright Angel Campground via South Kaibab Trail
      •  7.0 mi (11.3 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 4780ft (1457 m)
    • Day 2 Bright Angel Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      •  7.2 mi (11.6 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1600 ft (480 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 3 Cottonwood Campground to North Rim Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) to North Kaibab Trailhead (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) to Campground)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 4161 ft (1268 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss Negligible
    • Day 4 North Rim Campground to Cottonwood Campground
      • 6.8 miles (10.9 KM) (+ 0.9 miles (1.4 km) from North Rim Campground to Trailhead)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain Negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 5761 ft (1756 m)
    • Day 5 Cottonwood Campground to Bright Angel Campground
      • 7.2 mi (11.6 km) 
      • Approximate Elevation Gain negligible
      • Approximate Elevation Loss 1600 ft (480 m)
    • Day 6 Bright Angel Campground to Havasupai Garden Campground
      • 4.7 mi (7.6 km)
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 1320 ft (400 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible
    • Day 6 Havasupai Garden to South Rim via Bright Angel Trail
      • 4.8 mi (7.7 km) 
      • Approximate Elevation Gain 3060 ft (930 m)
      • Approximate Elevation Loss negligible

Itinerary notes​

This option is like the 6 day option, but splits the trek up between Cottonwood and Havasupai Gardens. Doing it this way allows you to conquer the hottest part of your ascent up the South Rim first thing in the morning and takes significant mileage and elevation off your final day’s trek out. 

 

tent at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon
My old Marmot Catalyst tent 3P camping at the North Rim

What to pack for backpacking the Grand Canyon

The lighter your pack, the more enjoyable your backpacking trip in the Grand Canyon is going to be. A lighter backpack helps you cover more mileage and more elevation with way less effort making big days more realistic, not to mention more comfortable!

If you’re new to backpacking, don’t stress out about buying the latest and greatest equipment. Save money and use things you already own that can be repurposed for backpacking, rent gear or borrow stuff from a gear-head buddy. Later, when you’ve gained more experience, modify your kit and change out gear as you get a better understanding of what creature comforts you can and can’t live without. 

Here’s a complete list of gear to pack for backpacking the Grand Canyon. Click any item below to jump ahead in the post for a detailed recommendation. 

Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 Tent in Sequoia National Park at Rae Lakes
This doesn't look like the Grand Canyon! I wish I had this tent for the Grand Canyon though! My Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 at Rae Lakes in Sequoia National Park.

Best tent for backpacking the Grand Canyon

I upgraded to Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 since backpacking the R2R2R2 and it’s been great, that’s it above at Rae Lakes in Sequoia National Park. It’s the perfect tent for backpacking the Grand Canyon as it’s semi-freestanding, double walled and weighs in at a mere 2.5 lbs. Unlike many 2-person tents, it doesn’t have a tapered floor and is able to fit 2 extra wide sleeping pads side-by-side with no overlap,  a rarity in this class of tent! It’s cozy for two, but palatial for one!  

If you’re looking for a completely freestanding tent that doesn’t need to be staked out to stand, check out the Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2. It’s unique blend of functionality, livability, weight, and durability earn high praise and Big Agnes’s customer service is outstanding!  

For an incredible ultralight option, check out the single wall Durston X-Mid Pro which weighs in at a mere 20 oz (565g). There’s a reason this tent has developed a serious cult following among ultralighters. 

osprey exos backpack
Using the Osprey Exos in Zion National Park

Best backpack for backpacking the Grand Canyon

If you’re just getting into backpacking, there is nothing wrong with using a large-size backpack with a decent suspension system (and good hipbelt) or borrowing one from a friend. Going this route gives you time to decide what features you need and whether or not backpacking (and the gear) is something you want to invest in.  Whatever backpack you use, make sure you have a good fit before by following this guide to backpack sizing.  When I first started backpacking, I used a 60L travel backpack, our Khmer Explorer Travel Set on Canada’s West Coast Trail.  While not designed for hiking, it worked great despite my ridiculous overpacking!  

If you’ve begun dialing in your backpacking kit and moving towards a lightweight set-up, check out either the Osprey Exos or Woman’s Eja. At under 3 lbs these packs provides a great compromise between barebones ultralight packs and the heavier feature-laden packs.  Their excellent suspension systems prevent the dreaded swampy/sweaty back on hot days. That’s my Exos hiking the Narrows in Zion in the photo above. 

Learn more about the Exos and Eja:

For a similar option that checks in even a little bit lighter in weight, check out the Gregory Focal and Facet (women’s) lineup:

If you’re an extreme gram counter, you might like the Hyperlite 3400 southwest. It’s 100% waterproof and constructed from ultralight dyneema fabric.  Being ultralight you’ll sacrifice features, so if you hate getting a swampy back (that’s me) you may prefer the Osprey or Gregory despite the weight penalty. Backpacking gear is always a zero sum game! 

Check the price of the Hyperlite 3400 southwest:

Sleeping mat

I used to have terrible sleeps in the backcountry until I switched to the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir X-lite. It’s incredibly lightweight, comfortable, and packs down to the size of a Nalgene bottle. This is probably one of my favorite backpacking items! Get one. You won’t regret it. Sleep well! 

Patagonia Sleeping Bag in a tent

Sleeping bag or quilt

My Patagonia Sleeping Bag kept me nice and toasty on the North Rim. Plus at only 822 g (29 oz)  it’s lightweight and packs down small!  I found the 30°F / -1°C  to be perfect for most outings – if it gets colder you can always layer up! Like all Patagonia products, it’s not cheap, but they stand behind their gear and the quality matches the price point. If you spend a lot of time in colder environments they also make a 20°F / -7°C version .  These bags are a worthwhile splurge! 

If you’re looking for an even lighter-weight option, consider going for a sleeping bag quilt. Feathered Friends  Flicker UL Quilt Sleeping Bag has won numerous awards and is a stalwart among ultralight backpackers. With a weight starting at  526g (1 lb 2.5 oz), I can see why! 

Backpacking pillow

Yes, you can sleep with a pillow not made of bunched up clothes in the backcountry. Check out the Nemo Fillo Elite. It packs down ultra small and provides a new level of comfort after long days on the trail. Once you try one you won’t imagine how you lived without! 

Water purification

Outside of the summer months you’ll need to bring something to purify your drinking water.  I love the Steripen. It’s light, portable and only takes minutes to purify a liter of water using only UV light. Press the button, place the pen in your bottle, and stir for a couple minutes it’s that easy!  

Make sure to bring tablets as a backup though should you run into any technical problems/dead battery with your Steripen.

Trowel & toilet Paper

The rim to rim to rim offers a number of toilet facilities along the way and you should do everything you can to make use of them and avoid the alternative! That said, it’s always a good idea to pack a trowel just incase nature urgently calls at an unexpected time. Follow minimum impact camping principles and be sure to go at least (650 ft) 200m away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.), dig your cathole at least 6 inches deep, and pack tp out. 

Swiss army knife

For fixing gear or cutting food, make sure to bring swiss army knife.

Stove & fuel canister

Lightweight, convenient, and reliable, the MSR pocket rocket  has been my go-to backpacking stove for years. 

Lighter and matches

A little baby bic lighter is all you need. I often bring a small pack of matches wrapped in ziplock bag as well for backup or you could bring a small pack of waterproof ones.

Backcountry cookset

I love the GSI Halulite Microdualist II , two-person cookset. It’s lightweight and I can fit my MSR pocket rocket and a fuel canister inside.

If you’re looking to buy a minimalist stove and cookset check out the MSR PocketRocket Stove Kit  for an all-inclusive solution. 

Water bottle or reservoir

Nalgene are always a backcountry favorite. Check prices at Backcountry /REIIf you’re cutting weight or looking for a way to save a buck, a simple smart water is the go-to for ultralight backpackers.  

Alternatively, a hydration reservoir allows you to stay hydrated continuously without stopping to grab and open a bottle. 

Water storage container

Extra water capacity is important for safety on your hike of the rim to rim to rim. So make sure to bring a MSR DromLite Bag  or Dromedary for additional water storage.  They are also convenient to have around camp for cooking and cleaning up. 

First aid kit

From blisters, to scrapes, and cuts, a first aid kit is an essential item to have.  The pre-built kits from Adventure Medical Kits offer varying sizes for party size and trip length.  At the end of your trip write down any items you used and replace them right away so your kit is ready for your next adventure. 

trekking poles in the Grand Canyon
Using the Leki MCT Vario poles in the Grand Canyon

Trekking poles

The huge elevation gains and losses in the Grand Canyon make trekking poles an essential item in your kit!  I resisted getting them for years, but take it from a former skeptic, poles are incredible at reducing the strain of long, grueling descents and providing extra stability on exposed sections.  Leki makes some the best trekking poles on the market, I bought the Leki Micro Vario before doing the R2R2R and just look at how much fun I’m having with them in the photo above. If you’re looking for a premium hiking pole check out the new version, the MCT Vario. 

Headlamp with red light mode

The Grand Canyon is an International Dark Sky Park (IDSP) and you’re likely to encounter some of the most beautiful night skies you’ve ever seen. You’re also going to see numerous signs asking you to use the red light mode on your headlamp to preserve yours and others night vision. 

The Black Diamond Spot 350 is the way to go with 6 modes including the night vision saving red light! Red light mode takes a minute to get used to, but once you do it’s a total game changer trust me! Hello stars!!  

GPS, compass and map

The rim to rim to rim trail is extremely well marked and easy to navigate, but make sure to download the GAIA app for maps and gps. Additionally, I always bring a traditional compass and map for use in the case of technical problems or dead batteries.

Battery back-up and charging cable

Keep your phone charged for photos and gps. View options at REI.

Hammock at the North Rim Campground at the Grand Canyon

Luxury items to pack for backpacking the grand canyon

Should you pack a camp chair?

No need to bring a backpacking chair on the corridor trails as picnic tables are provided at every established campsite. Hello luxury!

If you’re heading to a more remote site and this item makes your weight cut, check out the Helinox Chair Zero.  At just over 1lb and is light enough to justify bringing on slower/easier backpacking trips where weight isn’t as big of consideration.

A hammock

A hammock can be the ultimate luxury item  or even a replacement to sleeping in a tent. Unfortunately, the Grand Canyon is hit and miss with spots to string one up.  Havasupai Gardens has a couple man-made options for hanging a hammock and it’s possible and allowed on the North RIm.  However, you are not allowed to use trees at Bright Angel or any of the other sites below the rim. 

If it’s worth it to get horizontal with some great reading material in the pre-dinner hours or take in an amazing sunset from your own outdoor couch, the ENO Double Nest has room for two and at ½ kg  it’s hardly even a splurge in weight to pack.  

P.S. don’t forget the straps are sold separately (view them at Backcountry / REI).

What to wear in the Grand Canyon

Staying sunsafe with the Sahara Sun Hoodie in Zion National Park

Sun hoodie - the best clothing item to pack for the Grand Canyon

When I did this hike a few years ago, I was shocked to see throngs of Arizona Trail thru-hikers wearing hoodies in the 100 degree (40 C) heat. Turns out they were onto something! A sun hoodie has been one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking kit. They keep you burn free, are surprisingly cool, and let you get away with leaving the bottle of sunscreen at home (or bringing way less). The Sahara Sun Hoodie from REI is one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking wardrobe and you can’t beat the price. 

Convertible hiking pants

I never thought I’d see the day I embraced the zip-off. But they really are the best of both worlds and can’t be beat for quickly changing Grand Canyon conditions and keeping warm in the evening  during the non-summer months when the temperature drops. Check out the Patagonia Quandary Pant.

They are also available in a women’s version. 

Should you hike in shorts or pants?
Should you wear shorts or leggings in the Grand Canyon?

Regardless of the season you’ll almost certainly get hotter as you descend. During many months of the year, that may mean going from near freezing temperatures to heat stroke temperatures all in the matter of hours. As we descended the South Kaibab Trail, a ranger took one look at my wife’s black leggings and said “You’re going to regret those”. Sure enough, an hour later she was making a trail side outfit change. To avoid this situation, just remember layers are key. If you have convertible hiking pants, wear those. If not, wear a pair of shorts underneath a pair of hiking pants. Layering makes it easy to adjust your temperature depending on the environment and how much you’re exerting yourself.

A pair of shorts

In addition to hiking pants, it’s nice to have a pair of shorts to change into after a long day on the trail or as a backup option. Trail running shorts are light and comfortable. 

Shell jacket

An essential piece for wind, rain, and snow. The Arc’teryx Beta shell is the best all around shell jacket. While you’re unlikely to encounter much rain here this shell performs in all adverse conditions and is the perfect outer layer for the North Rim. Arc’teryx gear is expensive, but impeccably designed. I was skeptical for years, until I purchased a few pieces of their trail running gear and got hooked. If you’re looking for the best reviewed hiking shell out there this is the one. 

For another excellent option that is more economical,  check out the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L. 

Staying warm in my puffy on a cold morning in the Canadian Rockies

Puff jacket

I’ve had the Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody for years and it works great on it’s own or underneath a shell for extra warmth. It’s a perfect multi-functional item for everyday, backpacking, and pretty much anything where you might need a bit of warmth. I’m still looking for an activity it doesn’t work for. This item likely won’t be needed in the summer months, but is ideal for cold nights on the North RIm.

Base layer top

In addition to a sun hoodie, I also bring one base layer top to change into after hiking or have as an alternate. The  Capilene Cool trail  t-shirts work great for me on long hikes and trail runs, but pretty much any athletic quick-dry top will work fine. 

Base layer bottom

A merino bottom baselayer is perfect for warming up at night or during chilly mornings especially during the non-summer months.

Underwear

I’ve had the best luck with these Patagonia underwear for hiking, trail running, mountain biking and skiing and found them to be more durable than the more expensive ones from lululemon. I usually bring a 2-3 pair depending on trip length. 

They also make women’s underwear, but I am unable to advise on fit, form, function, or durability on this front. Check them out for yourself at Backcountry/Patagonia.

Hiking socks 3 pairs

I typically bring 3 pairs of socks. 1 pair for hiking, 1 pair to change into at camp, and a reserve to throw into the rotation as needed.  Darn Tough Vermont makes the best hiking socks hands down. They’re guaranteed for life/replaced free of charge and they don’t stink. So go ahead and try to get holes in your socks. Really! 

Sun hat & warm hat (seasonal)

A ball cap or tilley hat keeps your face protected from the sun. Check out these options at REI / Patagonia/Backcountry

 For colder months, bring a winter hat or beanie to warm up during chilly mornings or evenings. 

Buff

This little item was super helpful on the rim to rim to rim.  It helped block sun exposure on my head and neck and worked great to cool down with by soaking it at every creek or water stop. 

Sunglasses

Don’t forget to pack your favorite pair

Gloves

I bring a thin weatherproof pair if you’re camping on the North Rim. 

Trail runners or hiking boots

Unless you’re hiking in the winter with the potential for snow and cold or you’re carrying the gear for your whole family, I’d choose trail runners for this hike. I’ve had great luck with the La Sportiva Bushido II.

The Altra Lone Peak are also a thru-hiker favorite and award winning trail shoe! 

I do have a larger more traditional hiking boot, the Scarpa Kailash that I occasionally use when I’m carrying more gear/weight or heading somewhere with lots of snow. I actually wore these on this hike as I didn’t have my pack weight nearly as dialed as do now. I prefer trail runners now, but these are still a great boot. 

Camp shoes

Crocs are back! Well for backpacking camp shoes they never left… They’re lightweight and ugly as ever. Many backpackers find them to be the perfect camp shoe for resting sore feat after a long day in boots/shoes. 

Personally, I still hate them. I have an old pair of Tom’s which I occasionally bring. They are light and less bulky than Crocs. If I’m wearing a trail runner, I’ll often ditch the camp shoe altogether and just loosen my laces. Your call!  

Additional items to pack for backpacking the Grand Canyon

Microspikes (season dependent)

Kahtoola Microspikes slip effortlessly over your boots and make walking on snow and ice a breeze. If you’re tackling this hike when snow and ice are possible, bring these! 

Low trail running gaiter (optional)

Low gaiters can be helpful for keeping rocks, sand, and snow out of your trail runners and saving you from blisters.

Duct tape (repairs and blisters)

Tooth brush & toothpaste

Food for backpacking the Grand Canyon

Everyone has different takes and caloric requirements, diets, and preferences so I won’t tell you exactly what to bring. I generally try to avoid/limit the just-add-water meals you find at REI . They’re overpriced and often don’t rehydrate as well as you’d like.  I usually head to the grocery store and search for things like lentil rice, ramen, or plant-based mac & cheese. They’re basically just add water/boil quickly meals and way cheaper. Always re-bag/re-pack this type of food, as there is no reason to carry unnecessary packaging on the trail. If you’re looking for convenience consider Patagonia Provisions soups and chilis. I’ve found them to be a better bet than the other just add water options. 

If you're coming from outside the US, don't forget this!

If you’re traveling from outside the US don’t forget to purchase comprehensive travel insurance that includes emergency evacuation. 

World Nomads is the best choice for these types of adventure trips. Hopefully, you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared! I broke my collarbone traveling a few years ago, which hurt enough! I can’t imagine how much worse it would have hurt if I had to pay the $15,000 in medical bills out-of-pocket… 

Final thoughts on backpacking the Grand Canyon

    • Terrific first backpacking trip to the Grand Canyon that provides a great introduction to the nuances of backpacking here, not to mention the incredible scenery. 
    • First and last sections felt busy with day hikers from the South Rim.
    • The heat was unbearable at times and felt like the biggest obstacle to overcome, much more so than elevation gain. 
    • Would avoid staying at Bright Angel Campground if possible due to congestion. 
    • Would take the earliest possible Hikers Express on day 1. South Kaibab trail is much more enjoyable this way. 
    • Would love to camp at the North Rim again while it’s closed to vehicle traffic. 

Your Thoughts on backpacking the Grand Canyon

Have you backpacked the Grand Canyon rim to rim to rim? I’d love to hear from you. Questions about backpacking the rim to rim to rim? Drop me a line in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help! 

More adventures you might enjoy

View along the Rockwall Trail towards Floe Lake.

Rockwall Trail | The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the Rockwall

The Rockwall Trail is one of the Canadian Rockies’ premier backpacking trips. For 55km you’ll be treated to a seemingly unending supply of sublime Rocky Mountain scenery. Here’s how to make it happen with must-read tips for getting a permit and beating the crowds.

36 Epic Things To Do In Vancouver, Canada

Vancouver and North Shore Mountains

There are so many incredible things to do in Vancouver! Squished between the ocean and the North Shore mountains this majestic place is unquestionably one of the most beautiful cities in the world. With this location, it’s no surprise that the city is jam packed with epic things to do!  The biggest challenge in visiting Vancouver is picking the best things to do in the limited time you have. Fortunately that’s why I wrote this post, to help you pack your time in Vancouver with the highest percentage of truly awesome activities.

That means we’re going to gloss over the boring stuff, like fighting with cruise ship passengers for a photo of Gastown’s steam clock. We’re also going to gloss over the token tourist punch card items, like pushing through the hoards at the overpriced Capilano suspension bridge.  So, if you’re planning a trip to Vancouver and looking for some truly epic things to do, you’ve come to the right spot!  

I should also note that I’m not a travel blogger that visited the city once, I lived there for years and subsequently developed a strong opinion on the best things you should do on a trip to Vancouver.  These epic things to do  are the same recommendations  that I’ve given to some of my closest friends.

 Let’s dive in!

Revolver Coffee Vancouver

1. Indulge in Epic Coffee

Maybe you’re tired from your long flight or drive into Vancouver or you’re worn out from the other epic things to do on this list. Fear not! Vancouver’s fantastic suite of coffee roasters and coffee shops will get you wired up fast. In fact, I’d go as far as to say the city’s obsession with great coffee is almost on par with its obsession with another plant based intoxicant…

Here’s a few solid places to get your caffeine fix:

Revolver – This coffee shop on the edge of Gastown exudes a Brooklyn-esqe charm. They serve a curated selection of beans from around the world.

Nemesis -Located near Revolver, this light spot excludes a modern feel with polished concrete floors, light wood accents, and big windows. They also have several other locations in the city, including the Polygon Art Gallery in North Vancouver. 

Matchstick – With 5 beautifully designed cafes across the city, Matchstick offers delicious house roasted coffee and baked goods.

Elysian – A bit of a puritan coffee shop with fantastic coffee and 1 or 2 types of baked goods. If you’re into a minimalist aesthetic this is your spot. If you like drinks with caramel, this isn’t your vibe at all.  Don’t even dare asking if they have wi-fi… 

JJ Bean – a Vancouver institution that started in Granville island market and worked its way across the lower mainland. Despite their omnipresence they have excellent coffee with a great selection of roasts. 

Biking the North Shore Vancouver

2. Bike the North Shore

This item is likely top thing on your Vancouver to do list if you came to Vancouver with a death wish alongside this epic to do list.  Mountain biking was essentially born on Vancouver’s north shore! The trails are devilishly challenging and many are downright terrifying. Accomplished mountain bikers frequently find themselves pushed to a new level on the green level runs, psychically shaking on the blues, and fearing for their lives on the blacks. I don’t even know who rides the double blacks out here… If this sounds like your cup of adrenaline, check out endless biking they have top-tier rentals, tours and even lessons so you can learn how to ride these trails without leaving in a body bag.

3. Check Out Vancouver’s Incredible Beer Scene

If you like beer, delicious craft beer, Vancouver is pretty much a shoe-in to become one of your favorite cities to knock back a cold one in. There are over 48 craft breweries in this town, making it next to impossible for a mere mortal to visit them all in one trip. Don’t go to Granville Island Brewing or Stanley Park Brewing; they’re simply masquerading as cute microbrews, and are owned by major beer conglomerates Molson and Anheuser-Busch InBev respectively. A couple of my personal favorite microbrews to check out are:

R & B Brewing – One of Vancouver’s original microbrews. R & B has a relaxed environment with awesome beers and pizza.

33 Acres – Always felt like the “cool” micro brewery leaning on a real west coast minimalist design where you drink great beer. This spot is like the person that was cool in high school, somehow stayed cool in college, but now they’re in their late twenties and maybe they’re losing the cool factor, but maybe not? Awesome beer though.  

Howe Sound Brewing – If you make the trek out to Squamish this is the spot to go after a big day of adventuring that is synonymous with Squamish. They even have an inn attached, should you get a little carried away… 

If you’re itching for an easy way to see multiple breweries, check out Vancouver Brewary Tours, but inquire if they plan on making stops at Red Truck (fake micro), Big Rock (fake micro) or electric bicycle (people either love this place or hate it as they make some pretty weird beer…).

Crown Mountain Hike in Vancouver

4. Climb Crown Mountain in North Vancouver

Looking across Vancouver harbor and to the North Shore mountains several prominent peaks catch your eye: the two sand castle looking bulges, the Lions, and the crown looking mountain to the North. If you’re looking for an adventure, have come equipped with the required gear for an intense hike and are comfortable with hiking and scrambling, Crown Mountain provides unprecedented views of Greater Vancouver, Mount Baker, and the Coast mountains. This hike is accessed from the top of Grouse Mountain which can be reached via Gondola or by hiking the Grouse Grind or BCMC up. From the top of Grouse to Crown mountain it’s a 10km round trip, with over 850m of elevation gain. If you’re looking for a walk in the park, go to Stanley Park, if you’re looking for an epic thing to do in Vancouver, summit the crown. 

5. Watch Live Music with a Drink at Guilt & Co.

For people itching to party it up until 4am on a Tuesday night Vancouver may leave you wanting… Fortunately, for those that lean towards a good cocktail in a quaint setting there are a few great options to choose from, perhaps none better than Guilt & Co. Hidden underneath the banal Local, this charming little live music and cocktail den delights visitors with 2 live shows a night.  Check their site for the show schedule.

6. Visit One of Canada’s Best Cocktail Bars

Dark and moody, the Keefer Bar. is an apothecary themed bar mixing up over 25 unique cocktails. Since it opened the Keefer Bar continuously rakes in awards as one of the best cocktail bars in Canada.  A reservation is required, it’s a popular spot. 

Medina Waffles
Image Source & Credit: Medina

7. Go for Brunch

Make sure you’re well nourished for all these epic list things to do by starting with an early brunch! Here are a few great options: 

Medina – A Vancouver brunch favorite. Make sure to try the Liège Style Waffles. 

The Belgard Kitchen – Located in the beautifully restored historic settlement brunch here is worthwhile for the aesthetic alone. 

The Acorn – For an incredible vegetarian and vegan brunch check out this storied Vancouver restaurant which offers a weekend brunch from 10 am to 2pm. 

Jam Cafe –  People line for hours to brunch at Jam. If the lines short it’s worthwhile, but no brunch is worthy of a 2 hour wait. 

MeeT – Epic Vegan brunch options. 

What about OEB? Yes, OEB breakfast has invaded Vancouver. Sure, they have great brunch options, but you can also find them in numerous other locations across Canada and the United States. 

8. Escape to Deep Cove

I absolutely love Deep Cove. This little community with a tiny strip of shops and a marina is only  17km from downtown Vancouver, but feels like a thousand miles away! Grab a coffee from Cafe Orso, a donut from the ever popular Honey Donuts, or have dinner on the patio near the water at Arm’s Reach Bistro. It took me an hour to find parking here once, so come early, bike, or take public transit. Also note that unfortunately, the popular walk to the Quarry Rock viewpoint remains closed at this time.

9. Kayak from Deep Cove

Tagging onto the last point. Deep Cove offers incredible exploration from the water and there is no better way to do it than from a kayak. Deep Cove Kayak offers tours, courses, and rentals for kayaking as well as a number of options for SUP Boarding. If you thought deep cove felt like a million miles away from the city, just wait until you get out on the water exploring Indian arm. 

10. Dine at Tacofino, a Vancouver Institution

Tacofino started as a food truck in the surftown of Tofino on Vancouver Island and quickly spread to Vancouver. Today, you’ll find 5 Tacofinos spread out across the city, each with their own individual flair.  Inspired by the surfside BBQ’s around the world, these restaurants pull off their goal of making you feel like you’re having a surfside recharge while enjoying their epic food. 

Minami Vancouver
Photo Credit Minami

11. Sit Down for Incredible Sushi

People often say Vancouver has some of the best Sushi outside of Japan. Who are these people? I dunno, but I think they’re onto something. If you love Sushi check out these spots: 

Minami – Upscale bouji sushi, but if you’re looking for a splurge this is the spot. 

Toshi Sushi – Compact little sushi shop. This place takes the cake for authentic japanese sushi.

12. Eat the Best Fish and Chips in Vancouver

Are there more idyllic spots to grab Fish and Chips then from a fish mounger off main street? Probably, but not will you find better tasting and more sustainably sourced fish than at the Fish Counter. This little spot inside the fish shop is quite literally a counter, but they serve the best fish and chips in the city. The fish can be made with either Halibut, Pacific cod, Wild Salmon, or Lingcod. They even offer a gluten-free batter with a dedicated gluten-free frier for any celiac travelers in the group. The founders have been instrumental in starting numerous conservation efforts, including the Ocean Wise seafood label. 

13. Sample Vancouver’s Best Ice Cream

You wouldn’t think a city that averages over 2351 mm (92.6 inches) of rain per year would be so into ice cream, but it is! Check out Rain or Shine ice cream or Earnest Ice Cream. I don’t typically have a sweet tooth, but when one of these shops opened up a block from my old house, it spelt big trouble for me. I shamelessly devoured double waffle cones daily for a week before reigning myself in… It’s not something I’m proud of, but I now can truly attest to the quality of their cream. Enjoy!

Nemesis Coffee

14. Indulge on Incredible Pastries and Baked Goods

If you’re a fan of delectable baked goods, you’re in luck, Vancouver has a plenty of incredible spots to indulge including: 

Small Victory- This cafe and bakery whips up incredible croissants, cakes, and quiches. The almond croissant used to be a personal favourite indulgence of mine util turning plant-based ruined my fun. They have 3 locations around Vancouver.

49th Parallel  & Lucky’s Donuts – Don’t let the omnipresence of Tim Hortons turn you off donuts, try Lucky’s donuts at one of the Parallel 49 locations. They even offer a gluten-free/vegan donut so everyone can indulge!  

Best Gluten-Free and/or Vegan Bakeries in Vancouver

If you’re looking for a bakery with plenty of gluten-free or vegan options in Vancouver, fear not there are plenty of great options. Check these ones out:

Lemonade Gluten Free Bakery – 100% gluten-free bakery with many vegan, nut-free, and dairy free options.

Gluten Free Epicurean  – 100% gluten-free bakery offering breads, cakes, frozen meals and mixes.  

Level V Bakery – 100% Vegan bakery that offers everything from almond croissants to wedding cakes. Delicious! 

15. Experience Epic Plant-Based Food in Vancouver

A few years ago I gave up eating animals and things that came from animals, but don’t worry I’m not going to go all annoying vegan on you. I am going to tell you about a couple awesome vegan restaurants to check out in Vancouver, if you’re vegan, veg or simply plant-curious.

Meet– What a pun! This place whips up incredibly homestyle, hangover destroying favorites on the off chance you had a few too many at Keefer bar. Burgers, poutine, and brunch all 100% plant-based, this is vegan comfort food at its finest.

Virtuous Pie – This place took two of the best foods, pizza and ice-cream, and made them 100% plant-based with the mission of creating food that tastes great, is good for your body and supports a healthy planet. Sounds like a good reason to feel good about eating pizza and ice cream!

The Acorn – This award-winning vegetable forward restaurant crafts imaginative, seasonal plates with premium ingredients from the local foraging and farming community. A chefs tasting menu is offered here for an elevated dining experience.

Wreck Beach Vancouver

16. Spend Time at the Beach, But Maybe Not Kits Beach

Before I moved to Vancouver, I always heard the mystical name Kits Beach and envisioned it as the beach to visit in Vancouver.  Sadly, not. Don’t get me wrong, it’s nice.  I thoroughly enjoyed running along it on my daily jogs, but there are far better beaches to visit in Vancouver! Check out Third beach in Stanley Park, Spanish Banks, or Wreck Beach. Wreck beach is one of the nicest beaches in Vancouver and offers incredible views across the Strait of Georgia to Vancouver Island. Wreck Beach is also North America’s largest naturist beach, making it likely Vancouver island isn’t the only view you’ll see on your visit here… Don’t worry, clothed people are equally welcome here.

17. Purchase Your Own Nimbus 2000 and Explore Granville Island Market

I bet you never thought you’d get excited about going broom shopping?  With Granville Islands Broom Co. that’s exactly what will happen! Brave the crowds at the ever popular Granville Island and stop in to purchase your own beautiful and functional Shaker Style broom. Maybe you’re into quidditch or maybe you’re into cleaning, either way you’ll be enthralled with your new broom.  When you’re finished explore Granville Island Market, eat a bagel at the ever popular Siegel’s Bagels, grab a coffee at the original JJ bean location, and then take a quick look at the vegetables and other market vendors (Gourmet pickles anyone?). Granville Island can get jammed with other vegetable admiring tourists, so consider yourself warned. 

18. Experience Vancouver's Bud Culture

Vancouver is a bit like North America’s Amsterdam. There are lots of bikes and lots of weed. Well before marijuana was legalized in Canada, it was readily available at numerous brick-and-mortar stores throughout the city that managed to tippy-toe around the law. Since Marijuana’s legalization in Canada you’ll barely walk a block without coming across a dispensary. Take a pop into one, even if you’re simply curious about BC’s most famous export. In many, the experience feels more akin to perusing a luxury retailer than tucking into a pot shop.

19. Circumnavigate the Stanley Park Seawall by Bike

Biking around the Stanley Park Seawall is a particularly wonderful way to take in the sublime beauty of Vancouver’s surrounding oceans, trees, and mountains. Unfortunately, every other tourist in the city seems to think so too, including the ones that haven’t ridden bicycles for the last several decades. This is a remarkably beautiful thing to do in the city, but if you’re visiting Vancouver during the peak summer season, try to do it early in the morning or in the late afternoon to beat the crowds. Don’t bother with renting a bike from the innumerable number of bike shops in Yaletown, Coal Harbour and False creek, just download the app and rent a Shaw Mobi bike. Going this route gives you the option of being able to terminate your rental at one of the many stations throughout the city as opposed to having to return to the bike shop you rented from.  I’ll be honest, I made a point of biking this loop a couple times a year even after doing it dozens of times. It’s really that nice, despite sometimes feeling as backed up as an LA freeway.  Checkout this map for directional guidance as bikes are only allowed to travel counter-clockwise.

20. Go to Pitch and Putt at Stanley Park

Maybe you’re an avid golfer. Maybe you’re a total hack that likes to bat the ball around with friends over a couple drinks (that’s me). Whatever camp you fall into, you’re sure to love Stanley Park Pitch and Putt. Situated in the heart of Stanley Park near English Bay, Pitch and Putt features 18 mini holes ranging in distance from 40 to 100 yards. The course is first-come, first-served, so stop in during your exploration of the park and play a few holes. It can back up at times, but you’re under no obligation to complete the entire thing and multiple opportunities present themselves to opt out early. 

21. Enjoy the Ultimate in West Coast Relaxation at Willow Stream Spa

If all the epic things to do on this list have worn out and you’re looking to relax, visit the Willow Stream Spa. For those that don’t feel up to making the drive out to Scandinave Spa in Whistler, the Willow Stream Spa at the Fairmont Pacific Rim Hotel provides the ultimate in relaxation in Vancouver. The steam room, sauna, and terrace with North Shore Mountain views consistently propel the Willow Stream Spa to its spot as one of the best spas in the world. 

Penguins at the Vancouver Aquarium

22. Make an Informed Decision on Visiting the Aquarium

In the past, no trip to Vancouver would have been complete without a stop at the Vancouver Aquarium.  Situated in an idyllic location in the heart of Stanley Park, the Vancouver Aquarium is Canada’s largest aquarium and lets you get up close and personal with sea otters, sea lions, and penguins. Awesome, right? Well, that depends on which camp you fall into. For years Vancouver Aquarium was owned and managed by Ocean Wise, a non-profit dedicated to protecting and restoring the world’s oceans. Unfortunately, Coivd-19 devastated the aquariums finances and Ocean Wise was forced to sell Vancouver Aquarium to a for profit theme park operator, Herschend Enterprises. Make your own decision and decide what works with your moral compass, but I believe that the world’s best Zoos are those like the San Diego zoo that function as non profits and focus all their energy on animal welfare and conservation as opposed to to cost-cutting and profit maximization. Your call. 

the raven and the first men at MOA vancouver

23. Visit the Museum of Anthropology

Vancouver is situated on the unceded traditional territories of the xʷməθkʷəy̓əm (Musqueam), Sḵwx̱wú7mesh (Squamish), and səlilwətaɬ (Tsleil-Waututh) Nations. To learn more about the incredible cultures and history of the indigenous people of the pacific northwest, make sure to visit the Museum of Anthropology. Situated on the University of British Columbia campus, the building itself is a site to behold. Designed by the world-renowned Canadian architect Arthur Erickson, this stunning glass and concrete building sits perched above the western most point of Vancouver overlooking the Strait of Georgia. The immaculate landscaped grounds include multiple Haida Houses constructed with the aid of famed Haida artist Bill Reid to replicate a 19th century Haida village. 

Inside, the spectacular Great Hall area displays Northwest Coast sculptures, textiles, bentwood boxes, canoes, poles, house posts and carved figures dating from the 19th century.  The museum features an unparalleled collection of artifacts from the original cultures pacific northwest and the world’s largest collection of works by Haida artist Bill Read, including his famous sculpture The Raven and the First Men. 

**** The Great Hall is closed for seismic upgrades until 2023. ***

24. Skip the Grouse Grind, Do BCMC or Neither

So many recommendations for things to do in Vancouver include hiking the Grouse Grind. I’m not sure why…  It’s a hike predominantly in the trees, that’s unbelievably busy, that’s only real claim to fame is gaining close to 800M of elevation in 2.5 KM and referring to itself as “mother nature’s stairmaster”. If you’re hiking it to skip paying the gondola fee to hike something worthwhile like Crown Mountain, ok. If not, skip it. If you insist on picking a subpar hike for the only reason of obtaining bragging rights, go for the BCMC. It starts from the same trailhead and also gains a ton of elevation in a short period of time to end up at the top of Grouse Mountain. It’s still busy, but not quite as busy. 

If you are dying for elevation gain, consider hiking to Eagle Bluffs from Horseshoe Bay, or drive out to Squamish and do the Chief, a very busy but worthwhile hike. 

Ski Cypress Mountain

25. Ski the Local Mountains

This post is about the best things to do in Vancouver and the immediate vicinity, so, unfortunately, I can’t add have a super epic day skiing at Whistler to this list! That said, somehow Vancouver is absurdly privileged and endowed with 3 local mountains all within eyesight of downtown! If you’d like to get out on the slopes,  but can’t sacrifice an entire day or an entire paycheck to visit Whistler, head out to Cypress, Grouse, or Seymour. Of the three, Cypress Mountain would be my top choice. 

trail run

26. Go for a Run, on a Trail, in a Park or up a Mountain

Vancouver’s mild climate, incredible geography, and unparalleled pathway system make it a runners paradise. Road runners head to the 22km (13.7 miles) Seawall which runs from Coal Harbour all the way around Stanley Park and False Creek to Kitsalano Beach. This flat path is the perfect track for stretching your legs, with scenery so gorgeous the distance flies by. I ran my first half-marathon here completely by accident, I just got distracted by the views. If you’re up for something more rustic take a run through the trails in Stanley Park or Pacific Spirit Regional Park. If you’re an avid trail runner, Vancouver offers plenty of options to push your limits.  The rugged and stunningly scenic 26 KM Howe Sound Crest Trail (HSCT) is the ultimate confidence builder. For something less ambitious, run the first part of the HSCT to St. Marks Summit or run the 14 km to Norvan Falls in Lynn Headwaters Regional Park. 

View from the campsite at magnesia meadows on the Howe Sound Crest Trail

27. Go Backpacking

Vancouver is a hikers paradise, so naturally, it’s also incredible for backpacking and spending a night or two in the wilderness.

If you’re new to backpacking, cut your teeth by hiking into Elfin Lakes in Garibaldi Provincial Park. This 11 KM hike with 600 M of elevation gain takes you into a well equipped backcountry campsite with 35 tent platforms, a day-use shelter, and pit toilet facilities.  The trail follows a beautiful ridge before coming to the campsite which offers stunning mountain scenery. Reservations are required here and it’s a popular spot, so book your site well ahead of time.  

If you’re an experienced backpacker, the Howe Sound Crest trail is an incredible  backpacking trip only minutes from Vancouver. Starting from the base of Cypress Mountain, you traverse the spine of mountains that tower above the city and parallel the Howe Sound. This is a rugged trip with no amenities or designated campsites, so if you have to google what digging a cathole means, this trip isn’t for you, at least not yet.  

Porteau Cove Provincial Park

28. Go Car Camping

If backpacking isn’t your thing, but you love spending a night under the stars, go car camping! Porteau Cove is one of the most beautiful car camping sites you’ll find anywhere. Backing right onto the Howe Sound with incredible views to the mountains across the water, this campsite is the best outdoor adventure commercial made manifest.  Better yet, it is only 45 minutes down the Sea to Sky highway from Vancouver. So bring your tent, or rent a campervan for some of the best oceanside camping you’ll find anywhere. Make a reservation early, Porteau Cove fills up months in advance!

29. Go Scuba Diving

At first thought you might not think of Vancouver as a premier scuba diving destination, but guess again! British Columbia was named the #1 diving destination in North America by Scuba Diving Magazine.  Incredible biodiversity and vibrant life make this area a divers paradise. Check out the diving locker and consider taking a dry-suit course, the diving’s beautiful, but not exactly tropical.  

30. Take a Day or Half-Day Trip to Bowen Island

Only a 20 minute ferry ride from West Vancouver’s Horseshoe Bay, Bowen Island is the perfect day or half-day destination. The island features over 20 km of hiking trails with epic views of the surrounding Howe Sound, including the climb to the island’s high point, Mt. Gardner. If you’re hiked out, explore Bowen Island by bike (or e-bike), go sea kayaking, or play 9-holes of golf. Fuel up for your adventure with coffee, lunch, or breakfast at the Snug

Dr. Dun Yat-Sen Garden Vancouver

31. Visit Dr. Dun Yat-Sen Garden

Mere blocks from Vancouver’s notorious and dystopian Downtown Eastside, lies Chinatown and the tranquility of the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden. This authentic representation of Ming Dynasty-era tradition was the first of its kind outside of China and features numerous winding paths, rocks, water lily-covered ponds, and a pagoda. It’s a remarkably peaceful place to sit and read or watch the Koi fish assuming they’re not being terrorized by a rogue river otter.

32. Visit Science World or Send the Kids to Space

The unmissable silver golf ball looking building along the False Creek segment of the Sea Wall is home to Vancouver Science World. This is an amazing place to ditch your spouse with your young aspiring scientists while you enjoy a few hours of bliss at the spa, a brewery, or yoga. That said, the frequency of awesome exhibits here ( T- Rex : The Ultimate Predator anyone?) make it likely that you may find yourself equally entertained. They even offer frequent adult nights for those looking to explore their inner scientist sans children and with music and adult beverages. 

For another kid friendly science oriented activity check out the  H.R. MacMillan Space Centre in the UFO shaped building not far from the Kits Beach area. 

33. Dine at One of Vancouver’s Finest Restaurants

If you’re looking for an earth shattering culinary experience, Vancouver has plenty of options to satiate your palate. From rich Quebecouis inspired cuisine to premium farm to table, and innovative Thai, there is no shortage of remarkable restaurants to experience. Check out this list of 7 restaurants to try in Vancouver written by Michelin, the same company responsible for both the coveted Michelin star restaurant guide and of course the car tires. 

34. Go to an Awesome Pool

Remember how I mentioned earlier that  you should skip Kits beach? Well, I sorta lied. Although you may wish to skip the beach for the aforementioned reasons, you should definitely visit the Kitsilano Pool if you’re looking for an exceptional place to perfect your front crawl! Backing onto the ocean, this saltwater pool delivers epic views of the North Shore Mountains and downtown Vancouver without the risk of Ecoli that seems to show up in the ocean here from time-to-time.  The Second Beach Pool in Stanley park is another terrific option that delivers a similar ambience.

35. Work on Your Yoga Practice

Vancouver’s love for Yoga spawned the stretchy pants and athleisure apparel movement that spread across the world. So, it’s only fitting that there are plenty of terrific spots to work on your yoga practice. Here are couple great places to check out:

Modo Yoga (East Vancouver or North Vancouver) – These studios offer some of the best Yoga classes I’ve taken anywhere. Classes here do a marvelous job of fusing the traditional elements of yoga practice with a challenging workout (more relaxing classes are also offered).  Both studios also offer a weekly Karma donation based class (typically $5). 

Free Outdoor Yoga (summer months) – The big stretchy pant empire company, Lululemon, frequently offers free outdoor yoga classes during the summer months. So, if you’re interested, do a quick search for free outdoor yoga Vancouver for the where and when.

lonsdale quay

36. Take the Sea Bus to Lower Lonsdale and Explore the Area

Being surrounded by water, you may feel yourself called to book an overpriced dinner-on-a-boat trip just to eat mediocre food with an ocean view. Don’t waste your time. If you’re itching to see Stanley Park and downtown Vancouver from the water, board the Seabus from waterfront station and take it across to Lonsdale Quay. You’ll be treated to epic views of Vancouver harbour and downtown Vancouver along the way. Better yet, a ticket costs $3.10 one-way. Once you get across you’ll have the opportunity to explore the Lonsdale Quay market, a smaller and much less touristy version of Granville Island market. The adjacent Lower Lonsdale neighborhood is also worth exploring with numerous decent restaurants, bakeries, cafes, and of course, multiple breweries. 

Where to Stay in Vancouver

Backpackers Budget

Accommodation in Vancouver can be expensive, especially during the peak summer months. If you’re travelling on a budget or are looking to meet fellow travellers check out the following hostels:

HI Hostel Downtown Vancouver–  Daily planned activities, a rooftop patio, and convenient Yaletown location make this a great choice. 

Samesun Vancouver – This hostel consistently ranks as the best overall hostel stay in Vancouver.  Complementary breakfast and the attached Beaver Taphouse  with cheap food and social gatherings make this a backpackers favourite. 

Cambie Hostel – Lively atmosphere in the heart of Gastown. The patio bar here is always a great spot for a beer with good company. 

Mid Range

EXchange Hotel Vancouver –  Located in the heart of downtown this historic building in the home of the original Vancouver stock Exchange and is Vancouver’s first LEED™ Platinum Heritage Conversion. Exceptional service and great rooms adorn this character hotel. The perfect blend of style, comfort, and value that feels boutique without the boutique price. 

Hyatt Regency Vancouver – If the EXchange is fully booked or pricing high, this Hyatt offers exceptional service in a convenient location for a consistently great stay.  

Luxury

the Loden – Consistently ranking as one of the best boutique hotels in the country , the Loden prides itself in its personalized service, high-end amenities and being a central, quiet oasis within the city.

L’Hermitage Hotel –  One of Vancouver’s most elegant Boutique hotels, L’Hermitage is located in the heart of Vancouver’s  shopping, financial and entertainment district, and steps from Canada Place. This 60-room, luxury, boutique property combines Parisian chic and West Coast sophistication.

Skytrain in Vancouver

How to Get Around Vancouver

Vancouver is an incredibly easy city to get around in with highly efficient public transit and bike infrastructure (protected bike lanes). Rent a mobi bike, use the skytrain, or grab a Lyft or Uber. The skytrain runs directly from downtown Vancouver to YVR airport making airport access a breeze. 

If you’re planning on exploring more outside the city itself,  a car rental from YVR airport is extremely convenient, but parking and traffic can be problematic in certain areas of the city and times of day. Alternatively, short term car sharing apps EVO and Modo operate here, but require registration well in advance as drivers abstracts are usually required to register.

What to Pack for Vancouver - don't forget these things

Vancouver get’s a lot of rain, but don’t let that stop you from exploring the city and tackling this list of things to do just just dress for it.  If you’re properly dressed, you’ll find yourself becoming a local, undeterred by the seemingly endless drizzle. Make sure to include the following on your packing list for Vancouver:

A rainproof shell jacket – Umbrellas are bulky, require a hand to hold them and you forget them everywhere (at least I do). Get a solid jacket with a hood and you’ll be all good, like the Patagonia Torrentshell (mens/womens).

Footwear for rainy days – Sneakers are great for sunny days, but a pair of Blundstones are the perfect footwear for exploring Vancouver and avoiding the dreaded soggy shoe. 

Merino Wool Socks – Even if they get wet, they stay warm. I’m a huge fan of darn tough socks. They’re guaranteed for life, so say goodbye to holes.

Whatever you do, don't forget this

I broke my collarbone mountain biking while traveling in 2019 and racked up emergency medical bills in excess of $15,000. Fortunately, it was completely covered by my travel insurance! Whatever you do, don’t forget your travel insurance!  World Nomads offers the best coverage and customer service for travelers.  Hopefully you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared!

Final Thoughts

Hopefully, this post helps with you decide on a few epic things to do during your time in Vancouver!  I’m convinced that you’ll fall head over heels for this town with its breathtaking scenery, temperate climate, and incredible things to do. If you don’t,  it might be a you thing. 

What’s on your list of epic things to do in Vancouver? Anything you’ve done in Vancouver and loved that I missed? 

Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you click one of the links and make a purchase we’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. Just like the travel backpacks we build, we’re very particular . So any products or services we suggest, we test and use ourselves before making any recommendations or endorsements. 

Banana Backpacks Inc. is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com

Rockwall Trail | The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the Rockwall

View along the Rockwall Trail towards Floe Lake.

The Rockwall Trail is one of the Canadian Rockies’ premier backpacking trips. For 55km you’ll be treated to a seemingly unending supply of sublime Rocky Mountain scenery. You’ll camp near glacier-clad Floe Lake, hear the torrent of water crashing down from 300m+ high Helmet Falls, and be left awestruck by the Rockwall itself, an incredible expanse of 1000ft cliffs arranged almost unbroken for 30km.

Traversing three high passes in Kootenay National Park, the Rockwall delivers over 2,500 m meters of quad-burning elevation gain and over that amount of knee-crunching descent. Fortunately, five established campsites make daily mileage manageable for backpackers looking to space the hike out over a longer period of time. 

Your biggest challenge in backpacking the Rockwall is likely to be obtaining a permit and finding a way to escape the crowds on this popular hike.  Fortunately, you’ve come to the right spot!  This comprehensive guide was built on my own experience hiking the Rockwall and includes multiple itinerary options for planning your own adventure. I also reveal how I managed to hike the first 40 km without crossing paths with another hiker, while snagging a permit only days before starting my hike. 

So without further ado, let’s dive in.

Here’s a summary of the information you’ll find in this guide:

** Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links. If you click one of the links and make a purchase we’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. We’re very particular about products and we only recommend products, services, or accommodation we trust and use ourselves.**

Need to Know for Hiking the Rockwall Trail

Days Required: 2-5
Difficulty: Moderate
Distance: 54 km (34 miles)
Elevation Gain: 2,500 m ( 8, 000 ft)
Elevation Loss: 2,600 m (8, 500 ft)
Permit Required: Yes, campsites must be booked and book up fast
Designated Campsites: Yes
Navigation: Easy, well marked and maintained trail
Food Storage: Provided bear boxes
Best Campsite: Floe Lake
Worst Campsite: Helmet/Ochre Junction

Patrol Cabin on the Rockwall Trail near Helmet Falls

Things You’ll Love About This Hike

    • Sublime Rocky Mountain scenery.
    • Established campsites with bear lockers (no need to carry a bear canister), tent pads, outhouses, and tables for cooking/eating.
    • Numerous campsites allow for flexibility on trip duration and daily mileage.
    • Chance to see Rocky Mountain mega fauna (moose, grizzly bears, and mountain goats).

Things You Won’t Love About This Hike

    • Lack of solitude during peak season with large campsites.
    • Competitive permit process that requires advance trip planning during peak season.
    • 13 km shuttle required between the starting trailhead and ending trailhead.
    • Most campsites lack dynamic views from the tent pads.

What to Pack for Backpacking the Rockwall

Here’s a quick summary of what to pack for backpacking the Rockwall Trail. You’ll find a detailed breakdown of each item at the end of the post with rational, alternatives and quick links to check prices.

Clothing and Accessories 

Additional Items

Luxury Items (very optional)

How to Get a Permit for the Rockwall trail

Trekking the Rockwall Trail is such a memorable backpacking trip that your biggest challenge is likely to be securing the right to do it. Reservations for many dates/campsites along the Rockwall book up days after Parks Canada opens the reservation system (usually at the end of January) and no permits are allocated for walk-ups. If you’re planning on doing this trek during peak season, set a reminder and plan ahead to avoid missing out.

To get a permit for the Rockwall Trail you can either call Parks Canada at 1-877-737-3783 or use the online system for Kootenay National Park.

You must start by selecting your starting trailhead, either:

    • Paint Pots Trailhead – if heading North to South
    • Floe Lake Trailhead- if heading South to North

After picking your starting trailhead you’ll select the campsites you’ll stay at each night. For help with that, refer to the itinerary section below.

Hiker on the Rockwall trail between Helmet Falls and Tumbling Creek

When to Hike the Rockwall

The Rockwall Trail is best hiked between early-mid July and mid September. Any earlier and the passes can still be snowbound and sections can be subject to avalanche danger. Later season trips provide a means to beat the crowds and gain booking flexibility. The downside is that the days get shorter, the nights get colder, and there is a significant chance of early season storms disrupting or canceling your hike all together.

My recommendation on when to hike it

I hiked the Rockwall in early October snow-free, but the nights were chilly (woke up to significant frost) and we used up the majority of daylight hours to complete the Rockwall in 2 nights. If you get lucky with weather and are prepared for the potential of cold-weather/snow, fall can be the perfect time to take this trip and you’ll experience solitude unlike any other time of year. We hiked the first 40 km before encountering another group, camped alone at Tumbling Creek, and shared Floe lake with only 4 other parties.  With demand for reservations falling off significantly after the middle of September,  it’s possible to reserve a permit the day before starting a trip (especially during the week). If you are prepared for the challenges of late season hiking, this is the way to go, so keep your eyes glued to the forecast and make a last minute decision. You might end up having this incredible hike all to yourself!  

How to Get to the Trailheads - Shuttles & Transportation

The Rockwall Trail starts from either Floe Lake Trailhead or Paint Pots Trailhead in Kootenay National Park, approximately 50 km from Banff (Paint Pots) and 175 km from the city of Calgary. The Floe Lake and Paint Pots trailheads are 13 km apart on the Kootenay Parkway Highway 93, making transportation between trailheads a required annoyance. Your options for dealing with this are as follows:

 

    • Take 2 cars and leave one at each trailhead.
    • Hitchhike. If you’re electing this option, the best bet is to start your trip with the hitchhike. You get it over with and are more likely to get picked up as you look all fresh and clean! Consider making a small sign on a piece of paper that says “Hiker: only going 13 km” (helps take the edge off by helping drivers realize that even if you’re a weirdo, they won’t be stuck with you for long).
    • Bet on your social skills and charm (busy season only). Meet someone on the trail or at the parking lot that will drive you to your car. Bring desirable backpacking bribes (think dessert, candy, pocket cocktails) to help lubricate negotiations.
    • Convince a friend, spouse, parent, or lover to drop you off and pick you up! Just make sure you arrange all the details in advance as there is no cell service!

Which Direction Should You Hike the Rockwall Trail?

The Rockwall can be hiked:

    •  North to South starting at Paint Pots trailhead and ending at Floe Lake trailhead, or
    •  South to North starting at Paint Pots and ending at Floe Lake trailhead.

Quite frankly, you should be happy if you get a permit going either direction given how hard it is to snag sites. The hike is awesome no matter how you do it! Floe Lake tends to be the most popular campsite and as a result your itinerary may be dictated by the available dates for camping here.  

I hiked the Rockwall North to South and if I had to choose I’d do that again. Doing it this way lets you enjoy camping at Floe Lake on your last night. Floe Lake is the pièce de résistance of the Rockwall campsites, and enjoying sunrise here is an epic way to cap your trip.

How Long Does it Take to Hike the Rockwall?

The Rockwall can be backpacked in 2-5 days depending on how much mileage you’d like to cover each day. In my opinion the sweet spot for hiking the Rockwall is 2-3 nights for reasonably conditioned hikers who are mindful of their pack weight.  You’ll start early and typically finish in the later afternoon. You’ll have full days of hiking, but leave plenty of time for photos, snack breaks, and lunch.  If you’re someone that likes slow mornings or lazing around camp in the afternoon, go for 4 nights – that’ll be perfect. 

The shorter you go for, the more important it is to be cognizant of your pack weight and what you’re packing (see the what to pack section). Pack weight makes a huge difference in your enjoyment levels during long days on the trail.

Rockwall Trail Sections

The Rockwall Trail is best thought of as 5 unique sections. Here’s a quick breakdown of each section described for a North to South trip (Paint Pots to Floe Lake Trailhead). If you’re going South to North, use your imagination and remember uphill changes to downhill!  😉

Helmet Falls in Kootenay National Park

Paint Pots Trailhead to Helmet Falls - 14.2 km

14.2 KM - 500 M elevation gain / 200 M elevation loss

The opening section of the Rockwall takes you through lush forest until you pass the Helmet-Ochre junction campground at 8.2 km.  Shortly after Helmet-Ochre Campground the trail swiftly gains elevation for about a kilometer before continuing at a more gradual pace up to the Helmet Falls Campground.  By the time you reach this campground, you’re 14 km into your trip and starting to get a real taste of some of the scenery to come! The campground is situated between the tributaries of Helmet Creek and 350m Helmet Falls crashes down in the distance. Take a breath, soak it all in, and taste that mountain air with an essence of waterfall mist! Yum!  A short side trip takes you closer to the base of the falls for a closer look. Stay here for the night if it’s on the itinerary, if not, proceed to the next level.

Heading towards Rockwall Pass

Helmet Falls to Tumbling Creek over Rockwall Pass- 12.3 KM

12.3 KM - 700 M elevation gain / 500 M elevation loss

After departing the Helmet Creek Campground the trail begins an ascent, climbing over 400m in just over 3 km to Limestone Summit.  This hard work gives you your first close-up of the incredible Rockwall. Take it in and enjoy. Erosive forces have been working relentlessly for millennia  to create this view for you and your Instagram followers!  Show ‘em some love and savor it! After your climb, you’ll descend towards the south fork of Helmet Creek before climbing again to Rockwall Pass and eventually passing the junction for Wolverine Pass where a short side trip leads to the border of Kootenay National Park. The scenery along this section is absolutely stunning as you view the Rockwall, alpine meadows and glaciers. Shortly after the junction you’ll make a short but steep descent down to Tumbling Creek Campground with views towards Tumbling Glacier and the Rockwall along the way. The campground is in the trees near the creek. 

views to tumbling glacier on the way to Tumbling Pass

Tumbling Creek to Numa Creek over Tumbling Pass - 7.9 km

7.9 KM - 400 M elevation gain / 700 M elevation loss

After departing the campground and crossing Tumbling Creek, you’ll fire up the ol’ pegs and begin your ascent up to Tumbling pass gaining 350m in 2.5 km. Go legs go! Walking through subalpine forest, you’ll have views of Tumbling Glacier. After reaching the height of the pass you’ll descend through a boulder meadow before following numerous switchbacks alongside tributaries fed from the glacier above, fording the water on numerous occasions. As you descend and hear the roar of Numa Creek grow louder, shrubbery begins to surround the trail. Make lots of noise here to avoid sneaking up on a bear enjoying the buffet of berries that can be found in this section. After walking through some lush vegetation that makes you feel as if you’re hiking in the Pacific Northwest, you’ll arrive at Numa Creek Campsite. 

Numa Pass at the height of the Rockwall Trail

Numa Creek to Floe Lake over Numa Pass - 9.2 km

9.4 KM - 800 M elevation gain / 300 M elevation loss

From Numa Creek Campsite, you’ll cross a log bridge over Numa Creek and hike through lush vegetation adjoining multiple avalanche chutes before beginning the climb to Numa Pass, the highest point on the Rockwall Trail. The ascent to Numa Pass is strenuous with 800m of elevation gain in under 7 km. As you near the top the landscape changes from alpine forest to a barren alpine tundra. From Numa Pass incredible vistas greet your weary legs including a glimpse of Mt. Temple to the North. After taking in the view from the pass, continue down through the alpine as you wind through larch glades and seasonal wildflower meadows, noticing as Floe Lake comes closer into view below you.  Once you reach Floe Lake there are a couple of frequently occupied tent pads near the water, unfortunately the  other sites lack the same view out to the lake. Fortunately, the cooking area is set adjacent to the lake and provides great consolation. Don’t forget to set your alarm, sunrise here is a spectacle to behold!

Floe Lake on the Rockwall Trail

Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead - 10.5 km

9.4 KM - 150 M elevation gain / 900 M elevation loss

After walking for several hundred meters through the subalpine forest surrounding the magnificent Floe Lake, the trail drops sharply for the next 2.5 km, quickly losing 400m.  For the final 8 km you’ll find yourself walking through the remnants of the substantial forest fire that burned through Kootenay National Park in 2003. Heed extra caution on windy days as some of these trees have precarious leans to them. Take note of the incredible regrowth that has already occurred in this burned area and observe the significant logjams that have funneled their way into the valley and Floe Creek below. To wrap the hike you’ll walk alongside a beautiful canyon eroded by the Vermillion River, before crossing to the Floe Lake Trailhead. Give your hiking companions (if applicable) a high five! You did it!!  

View along the Rockwall Trail towards Floe Lake.

Rockwall Itinerary Options

Here’s your Rockwall itinerary buffet! No matter your time or desired mileage level there should be an itinerary that suits your palate.  I’ve also indicated which day you’re likely to find the most challenging. 

Campsites on the Rockwall Trail

To make your reservation for hiking the Rockwall you’ll need to select a campsite for each night. There are 5 campsites along the Rockwall Trail.  Listed in order from North to South they are:

    • Helmet-Ochre Junction Campground*
    • Helmet Falls Campground
    • Tumbling Creek Campground
    • Numa Creek Campground
    • Floe Lake Campground

*None of the below itineraries include the Helment-Ochre Junction Campground. In my opinion, staying at this site provides limited benefit as Helmet Falls to the Paint Pots Trailhead is not a challenge for most hikers looking to complete the Rockwall in its entirety. In a pinch, those looking to spend 4 nights on the trail could use this site as a substitute for Helmet Falls if that was booked. 

Rockwall Trail in 1 Night /2 Days

Crazy?? Maybe! But trail runners slay this dragon of hike in a day. So, the Rockwall Trail is doable as a 1 night / 2 day backpacking trip if that’s all your schedule affords. To make this happen, you’ll need to travel light and be comfortable hiking 30 km+ days with significant elevation changes. Your pack weight should be under 20 lbs. I’d also suggest doing this early in the season (July) so that the long daylight hours are on your side and you can hike from dawn to dusk if needed. 

Now that the disclaimer is out of the way, time to pick your poison:

Starting at Paint Pots Trailhead

Option 1
    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trailhead to Tumbling Creek (26.5 km) 
    • Day 2: Tumbling Creek to Floe Lake Trailhead (27.6 km) – Hardest Day

Notes: This option splits the mileage evenly between the two days with Day 2 being significantly more challenging as you’ll combine both Tumbling Pass and Numa Pass in one day before making the knee-crunching descent from Floe Lake to the parking lot.

Option 2
    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trailhead to Numa Creek (34.4 km) – Hardest Day
    • Day 2: Numa Creek to Floe Lake Trailhead (19.7 km)

Notes: A huge Day 1 is a great way to go as you benefit from fresh legs and guaranteed blister-free feet!  Plus, by doing it this way, you group the two easier passes together (Rockwall Pass and Tumbling Pass). This itinerary also saves the most physically strenuous pass (Numa Creek Campsite to Numa Pass) for the lower mileage day and provides ample time for a lunch stop at Flow Lake prior to making the big descent down to the trailhead.

Starting at Floe Lake Trailhead

Option 1
    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead to Numa Creek (19.7 km)
    • Day 2: Numa Creek to Paint Pots (34.4 km) – Hardest Day

Notes: For a 1-night option going South to North, this is the option that I’d pick as the first day is shorter, but includes a significant amount of elevation delta going directly from the Floe Lake Trailhead to the trail’s high point (Numa Pass) then making the big drop down to Numa Creek. The second day will be long, but the most challenging ascent will come first thing as you grind up Tumbling pass from Numa Creek Campground. The final 14 km from Helmet Falls to the trailhead will fly by. 

Option 2
    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead (27.6 km) to Tumbling Creek – Hardest Day
    • Day 2: Tumbling Creek to Paint Pots Trailhead (26.5 km) 

Notes: Despite evening out the mileage, Day 1 will be brutal on this trip as you ascend the trail’s two longest climbs back-to-back while squishing the epic descent from Numa Pass to Numa Creek in the middle. The upside? Day 2 should feel like a breeze after making the early morning climb from Tumbling creek to Rockwall pass, so you can throw it into cruise all the way down.

hiker crosses Numa Creek on the rockwall trail

Rockwall Trail in 2 Nights/3 Days

Anytime you can fit a trip like the Rockwall into an extended weekend, you go for it right? If that’s your motto and you’re an in-shape backpacker that knows your limits, this is probably the trip length for you. When I hiked the Rockwall this is how I did it (North-South) and if I had a do over, I wouldn’t change a thing! This trip duration makes for a couple full days, but you have ample time to enjoy the views without feeling rushed and you’re left with an easy half-day conclusion to wrap it up. 

Starting at Paint Pots Trailhead

    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trailhead to Tumbling Creek (26.5 km) – Hardest Day
    • Day 2: Tumbling Creek to Floe Lake (17.1 km) 
    • Day 3: Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead (10.5 km)

Notes: This is the exact itinerary that I hiked. Day 1 was long, but manageable. Day 2 felt longer than the mileage would suggest given the significant elevation gain over Tumbling Pass and Numa Pass before reaching Floe Lake. The hike out from Floe Lake flew by in the morning of the last day.

Starting at Floe Lake Trailhead

    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead to Numa Creek (19.7 km) – Tie Hardest
    • Day 2: Numa Creek to Helmet Falls (20.2 km) – Tie Hardest
    • Day 3: Helmet Falls to Paint Pots Trailhead (14.2 km)

Notes: This itinerary has been included as an option, but I don’t recommend this itinerary unless you have no other options for the following reasons:

    1. You have limited time to enjoy the scenery around Floe Lake.
    2. The section from Helmet Falls to the Paint Pots Trailhead isn’t nearly as enjoyable of a denouement as the descent from Floe Lake.
Heading towards Numa Pass on the Rockwall Trail

Rockwall Trail in 3 Nights/4 Days

Completing this hike in 3 nights and 4 days requires one longer day, but allows for plenty of time to relax at campsites and enjoy the Rockwall at a more leisurely pace. Unfortunately, this itinerary is slightly awkward, as you’re still stuck with one longish day that will include two passes. 

Starting at Paint Pots Trailhead

    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trailhead to Helmet Falls (14.2 km)
    • Day 2: Helmet Falls to Numa Creek (20.2 km) – Hardest Day
    • Day 3: Numa Creek to Floe Lake (9.3 km)
    • Day 4: Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead (10.5 km)  

Notes: Day 2 will be the most challenging as you combine Rockwall Pass and Tumbling Pass in one day. Both are manageable ascents taken in this direction. You’re likely to find the long descent from Tumbling Pass to Numa Creek tiring at the end of a long day. Day 3 has light mileage, but the ascent to Numa Pass is long and gruelling.

Starting at Floe Lake Trailhead

    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead to Floe Lake (10.5 km)
    • Day 2: Floe Lake to Tumbling Creek (17.1 km) – Hardest Day
    • Day 3: Tumbling Creek to Helmet Falls (12.3 km) 
    • Day 4: Helmet Falls to Paint Pots Trailhead (14.2 km)

Notes: Day 2 will be tough. After making the big descent from Numa Pass to Numa Creek, you’ll make the long and thigh-burning ascent to Tumbling Pass. Day 1 is likely to be the next most challenging as the climb to Floe Lake is significant.

Descending the Floe Lake Trail on the Rockwall

Rockwall Trail in 4 Nights/5 Days

The Rockwall Trail’s incredible scenery is worthwhile sticking around for and with 5 established campsites along the trail, why not make use of them? By going with this itinerary you’ll break all major elevation gains into separate days. This seems to be the most popular way for most backpackers trek the Rockwall. The more relaxed schedule allows you to sleep in a bit and relax at camp after arriving early in the afternoon. If this sounds like the type of adventure you’re looking for, here’s how to make it happen:

Starting at Paint Pots Trailhead:

    • Day 1: Paint Pots Trail Head to Helmet Falls (14.2 km) 
    • Day 2: Helmet Falls to Tumbling Creek (12.3 km)
    • Day 3: Tumbling Creek to Numa Creek (7.9 km)
    • Day 4: Numa Creek to Floe Lake (9.3 km) – Toughest Day
    • Day 5: Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead (10.5 km)  

Notes: This itinerary is the standard Rockwall itinerary that many backpackers choose. The climb to Numa Pass on Day 4 is likely to be the most challenging.

Starting at Floe Lake Trailhead

    • Day 1: Floe Lake Trailhead to Floe Lake (10.5 km) – Toughest Day 
    • Day 2: Floe Lake to Numa Creek (9.3 km)
    • Day 3: Numa Creek to Tumbling Creek (7.9 km)
    • Day 4: Tumbling Creek to Helmet Falls (7.9 km)
    • Day 5: Helmet Falls to Paint Pots Trailhead (14.2 km)
  •  
  • Notes: This itinerary is the standard Rockwall itinerary that many backpackers choose. The climb to Floe Lake (Day 1) is likely to be the most challenging, with the climb from Numa Creek to Tumbling pass (Day 3) a close second. 
Vermillion River Canyon by Floe Lake Trailhead

What to Pack for the Rockwall Trail

Since I backpacked the Rockwall, I’ve changed and continuously improved my gear setup to lighten my pack weight. Backpacking light makes it easier to cover long distances, large amounts of elevation and be a lot more comfortable doing so! 

That said, if you’re new to backpacking, don’t stress out about buying the latest and greatest equipment. Save money and use things you already own  or borrow things from a friend. Later, when you’ve gained more experience, modify your kit and change out gear as you get a better understanding of what creature comforts you can and can’t live without. Even then, it’s a consistently evolving process. 

With this in mind, here’s a list of what to pack and gear suggestions for hiking the Rockwall Trail.

Park Pass and Site Reservations

Don’t forget to buy a park entrance pass or Discovery Annual Pass and leave it on the dash in your car. To avoid the line at the park gates, or if you’re driving past the ticket windows at the National Park gates before opening, buy your park entrance pass and print it in advance.

Additionally, print and bring along the campsite reservation/backcountry reservation confirmations for your trip.

Best Tent for the Rockwall Trail

I upgraded to Mountain Hardwear Strato UL2 last year.  It’s semi-freestanding (needs to be staked), double walled and weighs in at a mere 2.5 lbs. Unlike many 2-person tents, it doesn’t have a tapered floor and can fit 2 extra wide sleeping pads side-by-side with no overlap. A rare feature in this class of tent!  It’s cozy, but workable for two and palatial for one!  I debated between this tent and the MSR Freelite and ultimately chose the MH as it was in-stock. The MH Strato doesn’t seem to be as readily available in Canada, so you may want to go for the MSR Freelite to avoid the risk of paying duty shipping the MH from a retailer in the US.  Ultimately, both are a great lightweight tents with similar features, but feel very fragile given their lightweight components.  If you’re looking for more durability/resilience these aren’t the tents for you. 

If you’re looking for a completely freestanding tent that offers more durability, check out the Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2. It’s unique blend of functionality, livability, weight, and durability earn high praise and Big Agnes’s customer service is outstanding!  

Best Backpack for the Rockwall Trail

If you’re relatively new to backpacking and building out your kit slowly, there is nothing wrong with using a large size travel backpack with a decent suspension system and padded hipbelt or borrowing a pack from a friend. This gives you time to decide what features you need and whether or not backpacking (and the gear) is something you’re going to invest in.  When I first started backpacking, I used my Khmer Explorer Travel Set on the West Coast Trail and Sunshine Coast Trail which worked great despite my poor packing skills (don’t recommend backpacking with 55lbs…)!  

If you’ve begun dialing in your backpacking kit,  check out the Gregory Focal or Women’s specific Facet. At ~2.5lbs these packs provide a great compromise between barebones ultralight packs and the heavier feature laden packs. The Osprey Exos (men’s) & Eja (women’s) backpacks are also great packs comparable in features and weight.  

If you’re ready to go to an extreme level of gram counting and have eliminated all creature comforts check out the Hyperlite 3400 southwest. It’s 100% waterproof and constructed from ultra light dyneema fabric. Being ultralight, you’ll sacrifice features, so if you hate getting a swampy back (that’s me) you may prefer the Osprey or Gregory despite the small weight penalty. Backpacking gear is always a zero sum game! 

Sleeping Mat

I used to have terrible sleeps in the backcountry until I switched to the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xlite. It’s incredibly lightweight, comfortable and packs down to the size of a Nalgene bottle. This is probably one of my favorite backpacking items! Try it out. You won’t regret it. Sleep well!

Backpacking Pillow

Yes, you can sleep with a pillow not made of bunched up clothes in the backcountry.  I love the Nemo Fillo Elite, but they’re harder to find in Canada. Fortunately, the Therm-a-Rest Head Down Pillow is a similar concept, weight and size. 

Sleeping Bag

I can’t speak highly enough of Patagonia’s Fitz Roy sleeping bags I invested in one several years ago. It’s unbelievably lightweight and packs down small. I found the 30°F / -1°C to be perfect for most outings. Like all Patagonia products, it’s not cheap, but they stand behind their gear and the quality matches the price point. If you spend a lot of time in colder environments they also make a 20°F / -7°C version.  These bags are a very worthwhile splurge you won’t be disappointed in.

If you’re looking for an even lighter-weight option, consider going for a sleeping bag quilt. Feathered Friends  Flicker UL Quilt Sleeping Bag has won numerous awards and is a stalwart among ultralight backpackers. With a weight starting at  526 g (1 lb 2.5 oz), I can see why!  

Water Purification

I love the Steripen. It’s light, portable and only takes minutes to purify a liter of water in a Nalgene. Press the button, place the pen in your bottle, and stir for a couple minutes. It’s like magic! Make sure to bring a few purification tablets as a backup should you run into any technical problems/dead battery with your Steripen.

Trowel, Toilet Paper & Hand Sanitizer

The Rockwall trail feels like luxury with established outhouses at each campsite, that said you need to bring a trowel for digging a cathole in case nature calls at any other time. Follow minimum impact camping principles and be sure to go at least 200m away from any established trails, campsites, or water (creeks, lakes, rivers etc.). Pack out your TP or hang onto it until you reach the next outhouse.

Don’t forget a  small bottle (1 oz) of hand sanitizer.

Swiss Army Knife

Fixing gear, cutting food, a swiss army knife is your go to everything too for backpacking.

Stove & Fuel Canisters

Lightweight, convenient, and reliable, the MSR pocket rocket has been my go to backpacking stove for years.

Lighter & Matches

A bring a small baby Bic lighter (in a mini-ziplock to keep it dry) & a few matches as a failsafe.

Backcountry Cookset

I love the GSI Halulite Microdualist II, Two-person cookset. It’s lightweight and I can fit my MSR pocket rocket and a fuel canister inside. If you don’t already have a stove, consider the MSR PocketRocket Stove Kit for an all-inclusive solution.

Water Bottle or Reservoir

Nalgenes are always a backcountry favorite. If you’re cutting weight or looking for a way to save a buck, a simple smart water is the go-to for ultralight backpackers. I’ve recently moved to a hydration reservoir as it allows me to stay hydrated continuously without stopping to grab and open a bottle.

Water Container

The Rockwall Trail has a pretty solid supply of accessible water sources, but sometimes it’s nice to have extra water storage capacity for cooking and camp.  The MSR DromLite Bag V2.  are a lightweight option to add this convenience and are essential on trips with less reliable water sources. 

First Aid Kit

From blisters, to scrapes, and cuts. A first aid kit is an essential item to have.  The pre-built kits from Adventure Medical Kits have served me well on many adventurers. At the end of your trip write down any items you used and replace them so they’re ready for your next adventure.

Hiking Poles

For the grueling passes of the Rockwall, poles make a big difference!  I resisted getting them for years, but take it from a former skeptic, poles are incredible at reducing the strain of long, gruelling descents and providing extra stability on exposed sections. Do yourself a favor and get a pair of poles. I‘ve had great luck with these Leki’s, but for a reliable entry-level option try these Black Diamond Poles. Black Diamond also makes a carbon fiber version if you’re looking to save extra weight.

Bear Spray

The Rockwall trail passes through prime Grizzly Bear country making Bear Spray  an absolute must! Make sure to remove the packaging, check the expiration date before heading out, and know how to use it.

Dry Bag

The Rockwall offers bear storage boxes at every campsite so you can leave your buiky bear can at home! For trips like this, I use a dry bag to store my food, camp cook wear, and toiletries/scented items in, making transportation easy to the bear box and keeping everything nicely organized inside my pack.

Headlamp

The Spot 500-R is the way to go with 9 modes including the night vision saving red light!  Red light mode takes a minute to get used to, but once you do it’s a total game changer trust me! The stars never looked so good!  The Spot 500-R is rechargable, but with a batter life of over 19 hrs on medium and 7hrs on high it should get you through the trip!

GPS, Compass & Map

The Rockwall Trail is extremely well marked, but download the GAIA app for maps and gps. Additionally, I always bring a traditional compass and map in the case of technical problems or dead batteries.

Power Bank & Charging Cable

Don’t forget a power bank to keep your phone charged for photos and gps. Plus a backup for charging your headlamp if it needs a recharge. 

Clothing & Accessories to Pack for the Rockwall

Shell Jacket

A shell jacket is one of the most important items in your backpacking kit and it’s vital to have a great shell for the rapidly changing mountain environment you’ll experience backpacking the Rockwall. The Arc’teryx Beta shell is the best all around shell jacket. This shell performs in all adverse conditions and is the perfect outer layer for rainy days, or cool nights. Arc’teryx gear is expensive, but impeccably designed. I was skeptical for years, until I purchased a few pieces of their trail running gear and got hooked. If you’re looking for the best reviewed hiking shell out there, this is the one. 

For another excellent option that is more economical,  check out the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L

Puff Jacket

I’ve had the Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody for years and it works great on it’s own or layered underneath your shell for extra warmth. It’s a perfect multi-functional item for everyday, backpacking, and pretty much anything where you might need a bit of warmth. I’m still looking for an activity it doesn’t work for. 

Rainpants

You leave camp on sunny beautiful day breaking sweat over a pass, only to have storm clouds roll in an hour later and dump sleet on you. Rainpants are lifesaver for rapidly changing mountain weather.  Many have the functionality for quickly taking them on and off without removing your shoes/boots allowing you to stay comfortable even if you get caught in a sudden downpour.  I’ve been happy with the Black Diamond StormLine Rain PantsThe Patagonia Torrentshell pants are also a great option. 

Sun Hoodie

When I went backpacking in the Grand Canyon a few years back, I was shocked to see throngs of Arizona Trail thru-hikers wearing hoodies in the  40 C heat. Turns out they weren’t just lost tech bros in the Grand Canyon, they were really onto something! A sun hoodie has been one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking kit. They keep you burn free, are surprisingly cool, and let you get away with leaving the bottle of sunscreen at home (or bringing way less). The Sahara Sun Hoodie from REI is one of the best items I’ve added to my backpacking wardrobe and you can’t beat the price. 

Zip Off / Convertible Hiking Pants

I never thought I’d see the day I embraced the zip-off pant. But hey, they’re the best of both worlds. Check out the Quandary Pant for a great option

A pair of shorts

In addition to hiking pants, it’s nice to have a pair of shorts to change into after a long day on the trail or as a backup option. Trail running shorts are light and comfortable. 

Base layer top

In addition to a sun hoodie, I also bring one base layer top to change into at camp or have as an alternate. The Capilene Cool trail  t-shirts work great for me on long hikes and trail runs, but pretty much any athletic quick-dry top will work fine. 

Base Layer Bottom

A merino wool or synthetic bottom baselayer is perfect for warming up at night or during chilly mornings.

Underwear

I’ve had the best luck with Patagonia underwear for hiking, trail running, mountain biking and skiing and found them to be more durable than the more expensive ones from lululemon. I usually bring a 2-3 pair depending on trip length. 

3 Pairs of Hiking Socks

Darn Tough Vermont makes the best hiking socks hands down. They’re guaranteed for life/replaced free of charge and they don’t stink. Really! I typically bring 3 pair. 1 pair for hiking, 1 pair to change into at camp, and a reserve to throw into the rotation as needed. 

Gloves

I typically bring a thin weatherproof pair of trail running gloves, like these

Sun Hat & Winter Hat/Toque

A cap or Tilley hat keeps your face protected from the intense mountain sun. A toque is great for warming up during chilly mornings, evenings or when the weather takes a turn. 

Sunglasses

Protect your eyes, don’t forget to bring your Sunglasses!

Trail Runners or Boots - Are Trail Runners or Hiking Boots Better for the Rockwall?

The answer here is it depends! If you have your backpack weight down to less than 20-25lbs and have a decent amount of backpacking experience, trail runners are the way to go during the summer months. If you’re going at a time when snowfall and colder weather are a possibility go with boots. Boots are also a better choice if you have a heavier pack and are newer to backpacking as they provide more stability and sturdiness. You also feel rough sections of the trail alot less on the base of your feet!  

In October with the cold weather and snow a real possibility I hiked the Rockwall in my Scarpa Kailash Hiking Boots.  During the summer months and with a light load I’d wear my La Sportiva Bushido II.

Camp Shoes

Crocs are back! Well for backpacking camp shoes they never left… They’re lightweight and ugly as ever. Many backpackers find them to be the perfect camp shoe for resting sore feat after a long day in boots/shoes.

Personally, I still hate them. I have an old pair of Tom’s which I occasionally bring. They are light and less bulky than Crocs. If going with a trail runner, I’ll often ditch the camp shoe altogether and just loosen my laces. Your call!  

Microspikes (Season Dependent)

Kahtoola Microspikes slip effortlessly over your boots and make walking on snow and ice a breeze. These are absolutely essential for early season travel or later in the year when snow/ice are a possibility.

Low Trail Running Gaiters

Low gaiters are perfect for keeping rocks, sand, and snow out of your trail runners/boots and preventing blisters.

Additional Items to Pack

Toothbrush & Toothpaste

I recently started packing these toothpaste tabs in a tiny plastic bag/ziplock to save more space.

Duct Tape (For Repairs and Blisters)

Food

Everyone has different takes and caloric requirements, so I’m not going to tell you exactly what to bring. I generally avoid the just add water meals you find at REI or MEC.  They’re overpriced and often don’t rehydrate as you’d like. Check out these incredible soups and chilis they taste better, are made with better ingredients, and are less expensive. As another option,  I head to the grocery store and search for things like lentil rice, ramen, or plant-based mac & cheese. They’re basically just add/boil quickly meals and taste like real food. Always rebag/repack this type of food as there is no reason to carry unnecessary packaging weight on the trail.

Travelling from outside Canada? DO NOT FORGET THIS

If you’re traveling from outside Canada don’t forget to purchase comprehensive travel insurance that includes emergency evacuation!

World Nomads is the best choice for these types of adventure trips. Hopefully you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared! I broke my collarbone  traveling a few years ago, which hurt enough! I can’t imagine how much worse it would have felt if I had to pay the $15,000 in medical bills out-of-pocket. 

Luxury Items You Could Pack

These items are extreme luxuries for a backpacking trip, but may be worth it depending on your weight priorities and the distance you plan to cover. I’d only  consider these items on a low distance or base camp style hike given their added weight and bulk. 

Camp Chair

After a long day on the trail there’s nothing better than finding a nice comfortable spot to rest your weary glutes. Fortunately, the Rockwall Trail offers tables and benches at every eating area. So this item is almost certainly a leave behind on this trip unless you’re looking for a comfortable spot to sit near your tent. Check out the Big Agnes Mica Basin Camp Chair or the Helinox Chair One.  Both weigh around 1kg, and are light enough to justify bringing on slower/easier backpacking trips where weight isn’t as big of consideration or for trips where you’re taking day trips from an established base camp.

Hammock

If you’ve never strung up a hammock between two trees deep in the backcountry you’re missing out! Nothing beats getting horizontal with some great reading material in the pre-dinner hours or taking in an amazing sunset from your own outdoor couch.  The ENO Double Nest has room for two and at ½ kg  it’s hardly even a splurge to pack.  P.S don’t forget the straps to hang it.

Final Thoughts on the Rockwall Trail

    •  The Rockwall Trail is unquestionably one the best hikes for scenery that I’ve experienced in the Canadian Rockies. 
    • Go late season to avoid the crowds. 
    • 2.5 days felt like the perfect length. It was 2 full days with early morning starts and late afternoon finishes, but plenty of time for lunch, scenery observation, and snacks. The last day from Floe Lake to Floe Lake Trailhead was an easy half day. 
    • The section from Tumbling Pass to Numa Creek felt like it would be quite hot in peak summer months. 
    • What I’d change hiking it again: Nothing! I was happy with the duration and campsites.   
    • Hike it North to South. Floe Lake is a great place to finish. Sunrise there is spectacular. The final day out is short, yet scenic, and makes for an easy conclusion. 

Your Thoughts on the Rockwall Trail?

Have you hiked the Rockwall Trail? I’d love to hear from you.

Questions about the Rockwall? Drop me a line in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help! 

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