What to do in Mondulkiri, Cambodia

Trekking in Mondulkiri Province Cambodia

Welcome to Mondulkiri, Cambodia’s wild east.  Mondulkiri is the Cambodia’s most sparsely populated province and home to dusty red roads, raging waterfalls, elephant sanctuaries, and just the right dose of adventure. It’s also refreshingly cooler than the rest of Cambodia, dipping down to 20°C some nights – perfect for hammock stargazing from under a blanket.

If you have a bit of extra time in the country and are craving off-the-beaten-path adventure, Mondulkiri needs to be on your Cambodia Itinerary.

While its relaxing atmosphere and incredible nature may fool you, Mondulkiri is no stranger to struggle. The province was heavily impacted by the bombing of US forces during the Vietnam War and an estimated half of the population was killed during forced relocation under the Khmer Rouge regime. In the 1980s people returned to Mondulkiri, including the province’s Bunong population, the largest indigenous highland ethnic group in Cambodia.

While peaceful today, Mondulkiri’s incredible forest cover faces significant threat from illegal logging. You can help make a positive impact by supporting tourism in the area and encouraging the preservation of its beautiful scenery.

** Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you click one of the links and make a purchase we’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. Just like the travel backpacks we build, we’re very particular about travel products and we only recommend products, services, or accommodation we trust and use ourselves.

Waterfall in Mondulkiri

Things to do in Mondulkiri

Bousra Waterfall in Mondulkiri Cambodia

Zipline or picnic at Bousra Waterfall

Bousra is one of (if not the) most impressive of Cambodia’s waterfalls. It’s located under 50km outside of the province’s main town, Sen Monorom, which doesn’t stop the local crowds from gathering here. It’s a popular picnic spot for Cambodian families, and rightfully so. Have a lunch packed up in Sen Monorom town and take it along to Bousra to join them for your own picnic. Then leave your shoes behind and explore the pools beneath the upper waterfall. The spray from the waterfall is a great way to cool down on a hot day.

If you’re feeling extra adventurous, you can also go on a zipline adventure from Bousra. The Mayura Zipline is a bit more expensive by Cambodia standards, but the reviews are great, especially for the course’s safety standards. 

To get here, rent a motorbike in Sen Monorom ($7 for the day). Mind the construction in parts of the road along the way. 

Dak Dam in Mondulkiri

Motorbike the road to Dak Dam

The road from Sen Monorom to Dak Dam is easily the most beautiful road I’ve been on in Cambodia. Apparently it used to be even more beautiful, but deforestation has increasingly taken place here over the past years. It’s still a stunning motorbike ride on a thankfully well paved road. Take a detour off the highway onto the side roads to smell the pine trees or up a small hill called “Build Love” (or something equally cute and kitsch) to watch the sun set.

Whatever you do, DON'T FORGET this!

Unfortunately, when you’re riding motorbikes and hiking in the jungle,  medical emergencies can and do happen. You need to be prepared! A friend of mine was medevaced to Bangkok from Cambodia and spent several weeks in the hospital there to the tune of $750,000. Fortunately, she had travel insurance! 

If you don’t already have travel insurance, check out World Nomads* . Their coverage includes medical emergencies, luggage & gear and trip cancellation.  Hopefully, you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared!

*We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

Trek through the jungle to hidden waterfalls

Seeing Cambodia’s incredible jungle is best experienced by trekking. A number of companies offer an 18km day hike led by a local Bunong guide. The trail takes you past three incredible waterfalls, hidden in the jungle. You’ll likely spot some wildlife along the way. I saw monkeys, a giant viper, and even an elephant (from one of the sanctuaries). Your guide will cook up vegetables and some fish or meat at camp to eat. 

 

Forest in Mondulkiri

Visit the elephants ethically

There are a number of organizations in Mondulkiri that are working hard to protect elephants in the area and allow travellers to visit them in an ethical way. However, not all of these are created equal. Doing your own due diligence is important here. One traveller I met had been to one of the supposed sanctuaries and ended up sitting on an elephant there. Elephant Valley Project is arguably the most ethical choice in the area – allowing you to visit and watch the elephants, but not ride, touch, bathe or feed them, which can cause them undue stress. Ultimately, I had too much trouble deciding on the ethics of visiting any of the organizations, so I chose to only trek instead. This thorough article is a great starting place to do your homework on the organizations and make your own decision. 
Sea Forest lookout in Mondulkirir Cambodia

Visit the kitsch Sea Forest lookout

Like the road to Dak Dam, the Sea Forest isn’t as much of a forest as it used to be. That said, it still serves as a beautiful viewpoint over the surrounding area and offers some kitsch photo opportunities. With small pedestals that include a “stairway to heaven”, bird’s nest and butterfly wings, it’s a popular place for Cambodian crowds to snap photos. It’s certainly an experience to visit.

How to get to Mondulkiri

From Phnom Penh, it will take you 5.5 – 6 hours on a bumpy bus ride to get to Mondulkiri’s main town, Sen Monorom. Departure times are in the morning, afternoon or evening. You can book your ticket on the BookMeBus website.

Where to stay in Mondulkiri

The town’s guesthouses. Tree Lodge and Nature Lodge are the two most popular options to stay at, offering rustic but scenic accommodation in the countryside.

Where to eat in Mondulkiri

For coffee and breakfast/lunch head over to Hefalump or Bamboo Cafes in town. Both have relaxed gardens to eat in and fairly cheap eats. For dinner, Pizza Mondulkiri and Banong Kitchen are great options with lovely staff. 

Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you click one of the links and make a purchase we’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. Just like the travel backpacks we build, we’re very particular . So any products or services we suggest, we test and use ourselves before making any recommendations or endorsements. 

Banana Backpacks Inc. is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com

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Man sits on waterfall near Kampot, Cambodia

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Koh Lanta Travel Guide | Top things to do in Koh Lanta

Charming Koh Lanta may just be Thailand’s perfect island. The island boasts stunning beaches, miles of peaceful roads, a picturesque old town, and a Goldilocks level of development and culture (yes, that means just right).

Koh Lanta is one of those places where a three day stop can easily transform into a month (or longer) stay. Only two hours away from Krabi airport, Koh Lanta has been spared the plague of overdevelopment that has spread to so many of the Thai islands (and the Banana Pancake Trail), most notably the island that is ominously visible from Koh Lanta, Koh Phi Phi. 

Unfortunately, places change quickly in Thailand and with major road construction (twinning and a second bridge connecting to the mainland) already in the works, Koh Lanta’s days of tranquility may be numbered… so book your trip and use this guide to make the most of your time on this incredible island.

This post contains affiliate links. We’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you if you click the links and make a purchase. Just like the travel backpacks we build, we’re very particular about travel products and services. So any products or services we suggest, we test and use ourselves before making any recommendations or endorsements

Best places to stay on Koh Lanta

Koh Lanta is quite spread out and as such, there is no perfect location to stay. Places on/near the beach tend to be lacklustre and overpriced. Not to mention, the beauty of Koh Lanta is the sheer quantity of beaches that you can explore. So going to the same one by your hotel every day isn’t necessarily a selling feature. I spent a ton of time scoping the island for the best spots and here are the results:

Best overall hotel

Green Pepper – The best place to stay on Koh Lanta, charming Green Pepper consists of several small bungalows spread out in a lush garden. Run by lovely Mayaan and Mon (from Cooking with Mon), you are instantly made to feel incredibly welcomed and cared for in this beautiful spot. They’re both versed on all Koh Lanta has to offer, and are happy to go above and beyond to make sure you feel comfortable and help you make the most of your time on Lanta!  We were a little unsure when we first booked given its location in the hills and slightly away from the beach, but as a motorbike is essential for making the most of Koh Lanta regardless of where you stay, it ended up making little difference. If you’re still not convinced, the peace and quiet of the hillside location makes you feel like you’re staying at a private retreat and the value can’t be beaten. Click here to check rates for your visit. 

Best beachside hotel

Lazy Days – Situated on Relax Beach, these charming bungalows take the cake for beachfront accommodation on Ko Lanta. The only catch is they’re not cheap and start at 4400 baht per night in peak season. If you’re going in low season, check for deals. They can be as much as 60-70% off. 

Other hotels we considered

La Lanta: The incredible location, made me have to go and check this place out! Unfortunately, the resort looks as if its prime has passed, despite being set right on the beautiful Mai Phai Bay. A 5-star location, but isolated from any bars and restaurants and in some serious need of some TLC… If the price was right it may be worth checking out, but not for the high season rates.

Sri Lanta: This sprawling expanse of time-share like condos and bungalows would feel perfectly at home on Phuket with golf carts and manicured lawns. Unfortunately, on Koh Lanta, it feels a touch souless. 

The best things to do on Koh Lanta

Ko Lanta Motorbike

Explore on motorbike

Koh Lanta is best explored by motorbike/motor-scooter, allowing you the flexibility to explore all that the island’s 22km coastline has to offer at your own speed. Not to mention the thrill of zipping up and down steep roads with the breeze blowing through your hair/helmet as you hop from one palm-lined beach to the next and pray you have enough throttle left to ascend the next hill. Not only is motorbike the best way to explore Koh Lanta, but it’s also the most economical. Full-day bike rentals are available for 200 baht a day or less. The island is also reasonably relaxed in terms of traffic, so it’s a great spot for farangs (foreigners) to cut their teeth on #scooterlife.

If you go this route, make sure you’re well insured with a comprehensive travel insurance. Riding a motorbike is a blast, but it’s not the safest activity out there. So be smart and make sure you’re prepared if something doesn’t go according to plan.

If you’re not comfortable with driving a bike, there are transportation options available including hiring moto taxis or a private driver, but be prepared to have less freedom and spend as much as 600 baht for taxi transport to some of the remote southern beaches or up to 3000 baht for a full-day private driver.

Remember to get International Driving Permit

Thailand doesn’t recognize every country’s drivers licenses and haggling with the police over an appropriate fine isn’t a fun experience. If you’re planning on motorbiking on Koh Lanta make sure you bring an International Driving Permit.

Koh Lanta Beaches

Beach the days away

Koh Lanta offers a plethora of jaw-dropping beaches all along the island’s western coast, which get more breathtaking the further south you head. If you’re exploring the island by motorbike, you’ll have the freedom to beach hop at your own leisure! Go in low season (mid-April to November) and you may have many of these beaches completely to yourself. Because Koh Lanta’s beach endowment can be somewhat overwhelming (who is complaining!), here’s my ranked list of Koh Lanta’s top beaches:

Klong Jark Bay – A stunning stretch of white sand. This beach was our personal favourite. It’s big enough that even with a few people you’ll still feel like you’re completely alone. 

Nui Bay – Journey down a series of steps to access this small beach protected by rocks on either side. A rustic bar in the middle of the beach serves ice cold Singha and Chang. A word of warning – monkeys roam this beach and may be ready to snatch your unattended coconut. 

Mai Phai Bay – The last beach before the National Park.

Kantiang Bay – Adjacent to Kantiang village, this beach tends to be a bit busier but serves as a great option if you’re staying in Kantaing village or stopping there for a mid-day meal. 

Relax Bay – A great option if you’re looking for something quaint and close to Long Beach. 

Cooking with Mon Koh Lanta

Take a Cooking class with Mon

 

Learning to cook is an incredible way to experience Thai culture and bring your memories of Thailand home to graciously share with all of your friends and family. Cooking with Mon is an incredible option for learning to prepare all your Thai favourites. From khao soi to phad thai and mango sticky rice, Mon masterfully guides you through a marathon cooking session (ours was five hours!) that familiarizes you with the staples of Thai cuisine. Best of all, he gives you a feel for Thai cooking, by discouraging exact measurement and letting your palate be your guide. He tops the whole class off by providing you with a pdf recipe book with over 30 Thai favourites. Truly a must do on Koh Lanta! 

Koh Lanta Old Town

Check out Koh Lanta Old Town

Ban Si Raya or “Lanta Old Town” is a trip back in time to an era when this port served as a safe harbour for Arab and Chinese trading ships navigating the Andaman Sea. Today, century-old stilt houses have been converted into guesthouses, shops, and cafes that overlook the sea. While slightly touristy in feel, a walk down the main drag makes you forget where you are and begin contemplating life as a trader, sailing the high seas and trading in tea, spices or perhaps even opium (for the adventurers in the audience).  If you’re cooking with Mon (see the prior point), the cooking school is located near the Old Town. So go early, have breakfast in the Old Town and take a moment to explore this cool spot.

Dive Thailand's Best Dive Site

Koh Lanta provides access to Hin Daeng, a site that is often ranked as Thailand’s best dive site. Hin Daeng is a large mid-sea pinnacle that frequently serves as home to massive shoals of fish and large pelagic fish like sharks, tuna, and barracuda. Dives to Hin Daeng are often paired with dives at the also spectacular Hin Muang. Unfortunately, the mid-sea location makes this an expensive dive (4000 to 5500 baht) with a lengthy commute (2 – 2.5 hour boat ride to the site). Scuba Fish and Lanta Diver are both excellent operators. Email or call in advance to find out trip timings to these sites or face disappointment like I did… 

Koh Lanta Waterfall

Go for a jungle hike to the Lanta waterfall (tricklefall)

Thailand’s climate is hot and humid and you’ll be sweating profusely and constantly. So what better activity to partake in than a hike through a steamy jungle? Surprisingly, the foliage provides a great deal of shade, and the hike alongside a small creek does actually prove to be a refreshing 30-minute walk! If you’re visiting outside of the wettest part of the year, don’t expect a waterfall at the end, rather more of a trickle and a monkey or two! Despite the anticlimactic conclusion, this adventure makes for a great way to get out of the sun in the heat of the day, after or before a stop at the stunning Klong Jark Bay beach. The hike is free to access, but motorbike parking at the start costs a small fee.

Knock back a sunset cocktail/beer (or 2, 3 or 4...)

Despite the occasional well-marked sign pointing in the direction of this week’s mushroom shake or poster for the next ¼ Moon, ½ Moon, Dark Moon, Blue Moon, Purple Moon or Full Moon Party, Koh Lanta isn’t an island that attracts a lot of the “let’s get lit on buckets” crowd (a real blessing IMO). What it does offer is a few great options for enjoying a drink and toasting another incredible sunset beachfront! Here are a few places to wet your whistle: 

Fat Turtle – Terrific views from this very comfortable and expansive beachfront bar/restaurant. Great mojito. Cold Singha. Avoid the frozen margarita unless you are dealing with a severely depleted blood sugar level.

Majestic Bar – Comfortable lounge chairs and good happy hour cocktails for taking in the sunset beach front. 

Salty Fish – Absolutely charming owner and family staff with great food and delicious cocktails. The beach isn’t Koh Lanta’s most scenic, but the ambience and quality more than make up for this. 

Why Not Bar – The intimate feel of Kantiang village compared with the other parts of Koh Lanta combined with Why Not’s beachfront location make this a no brainer for one drink at least.   

Go spelunking in Tham Khao Maikaeo Cave! Kinda...

Looking for a new activity to try? Why not check out Koh Lanta’s take on spelunking (cave exploring) and check out Tham Khao Maikaeo. This two-hour trip (300 baht) takes you through a series of caves and tunnels on a guided adventure tour. Make sure to bring good footwear, flip-flops don’t count. 

Go for a backroads run (really!!)

I love to run when I travel, but there is a catch… You have to go early or you won’t go. Set your alarm for 5:30 and hit the road by 6 to experience Koh Lanta at first light. Limited traffic on the roads and a much more comfortable temperature make this a great way to get to know your surroundings, witness people meditating quietly outside of their homes, and even receive cheers and encouragement from locals. If you’re close to one of the roads that intersect the island’s east and west coast, take a jog up and down a backroad. You’ll get to see what life is like outside of the more touristed spots of the island, or in my case, take a run through a massive garbage dump (unquestionably the nadir of my run). 

Push past the crowds into the Emerald Cave, snorkel, or enjoy a relaxing kayak tour

In Bangkok, you have the famous Emerald Buddha. Near Koh Lanta the famous Emerald Cave. The Emerald Cave is a small beach surrounded by cliffs that can be accessed only by swimming through a dark cave and into the hollowed out interior. Sound serene? It is! The only catch is that you shouldn’t expect to have it to yourself. The Emerald Cave is extremely crowded, as are many of the snorkelling tours that visit the islands nearby Koh Lanta for day trips. If you’re looking for something a little less crowded and less conventional, check out Talabeng Sea Kayaking. You’ll climb/explore the Ghost Island and Cave, kayak around deserted islands, and enjoy a delicious lunch on a beach that you’ll have all to yourself! Fahreed makes this an experience to remember, pointing out all of the best photo-ops and adding hilarious commentary. Just make sure to bring a pair of shoes with a decent grip and your adventurous spirit. 

Volunteer opportunities on Koh Lanta/where to volunteer on Koh Lanta

Be a Trash Hero

It doesn’t take long before Thailand’s plastic garbage problem completely overwhelms you. If it bothers you to the point of needing to take action, join one of Trash Hero Koh Lanta’s Sunday cleanups typically held at Klong Hin Beach. It’s a great opportunity to make a difference and meet a few new friends who are all working to make a difference too. Check their Facebook page for upcoming cleanups.

Lanta Animal Welfare

This long running animal rescue centre helps support both dogs and cats. Stop by for a tour of the facility, play with their 30+ cats, or check in to see if they need help exercising the dogs (orientation required). Lanta Animal Welfare is open every day from 9 am to 5 pm and is truly the purrrfect spot for any animal lover looking to help make a difference while visiting Ko Lanta. 

How to get to Koh Lanta

By Plane:

Fly to Krabi Airport then take a 2-3 hour mini-bus (+ferry) ride to Koh Lanta. The bus can easily be booked when you land at Krabi airport. Don’t worry, the location is obvious. Mini-buses leave when full or if you get lucky in the low season  you may be given a private driver.

By Bus:

Ko Lanta will appear on most tour agency and hostel transport lists. This cheapest, but slowest way of getting to Koh Lanta. 

By Boat:

Speed Boats depart from the main pier for most neighbouring islands. Ask ahead of time about the schedule during low season.

Best places to eat on Koh Lanta:

Ko Lanta Restaurant

Can’t miss food stops on Koh Lanta:

Go Deng – From the street it looks like not much more than a glorified street cart (or 2 of them put together), but from the comfort of your plastic chair you will enjoy Ko Lanta’s most enjoyable dining experience. Delicious Isan food and treats such as papaya salad, spicy duck and noodle soup await the fortunate diner, all for rock bottom prices. Miss the place at your own peril, although be warned the dishes can have some kick!

How to find it: Google Maps might be a challenge for this one, so look for the fluorescent lights and food carts next to Mr. Wee Pizzeria and Body and Mind Massage in Long Beach just north of the 7-11.

Kindee – An excellent night out. Kindee provides the closest thing to a luxurious dining experience available on Koh Lanta and doesn’t disappoint. Kindee top-notch  presentation with the flavours to match. Both the duck and the whitefish were incredible. In high season make a reservation to avoid disappointment.

Other recommended eats on Lanta:

Koh Lanta Salty Fish

Happy Veggie; Tasty veggie options including a delicious falafel burger. They’re also happy to refill your water bottle and help you cut down on plastic! 

Patty’s Secret Garden – Serving up Thai and western, the service was great and so was the food.

Drunken Sailors –  Awesome place to chill out in Kantiang for a beach break lunch or a late breakfast. Their coffee is the best on Lanta and the both the western and Thai food are fantastic (surprising I know!)

Peak Cafe – Cute little cafe with a nice outdoor sitting area. The owner is absolutely charming and serves up great hot and cold coffee. Not to mention the most delicious bacon I’ve ever tasted in Thailand (usually not a bacon destination…).

Salty Fish – Not only a great spot for drinks, Salty Fish scores high marks for food as well. Scrumptious Thai dishes are cooked up here including a 24-hour slow roasted pork that needs to be ordered in advance. Sadly, we only had the opportunity to try appetizers here, which did not disappoint. 

Things to bring on your trip to Koh Lanta:

Whatever you do, DON'T FORGET this

Unfortunately, when you’re riding motorbikes and finding waterfalls in the jungle,  medical emergencies can happen and you need to be prepared! A friend of ours was medevaced to Bangkok from Cambodia and spent several weeks in the hospital there to the tune of $750,000. Fortunately, she had travel insurance! 

If you don’t already have travel insurance, check out World Nomads* . Their coverage includes medical emergencies, luggage & gear and trip cancellation.  Hopefully, you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared!

*We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

What to Pack

A great travel backpack: Thailand’s wide ranging transportation methods and uneven terrain make a travel backpack your best choice for an adventure like this. A great pack helps you stay organized, makes travel easy and will save you money. With a 60L capacity, rugged weatherproof materials, and an integrated packing system, the Khmer Explorer Travel Set was built for an adventure like this.

A great daypack: From lazy beach days to waterfall hikes, motorbike rides and dive trips, Koh Lanta has not shortage of activities. The best bet for something like this? A customizable everyday backpack like the customizable Kiri Collection.

Runners/water shoes: From sea kayaking to hiking to exploring caves, good grips are a must.

Reusable water bottle: The island has numerous spots to fill up your bottle. Help reduce the impact of your adventure by taking this small step. The ocean and the fishies will thank you!

That’s a wrap. With quiet roads to explore, an abundance of beaches, and an incredible vibe, Koh Lanta is not to be missed.  This is Thailand and things change fast, with one bridge already connecting Ko Lanta Yai and Ko Lanta Noi (the undeveloped northern island), major road construction, and a second bridge on the way, Koh Lanta may change very drastically, very soon. So plan quickly, my friends!

Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you click one of the links and make a purchase we’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. Just like the travel backpacks we build, we’re very particular . So any products or services we suggest, we test and use ourselves before making any recommendations or endorsements. 

The 5 Best Cambodia Itineraries | Plan the Perfect Cambodia Trip

Cambodia Itinerary Ta Prohm

If you’re mapping out the perfect Cambodia itinerary, chances are there’s something in this post just for you! After living and travelling in Cambodia for years, I’ve put together this  guide with 5 different itineraries to chose from. If you’re looking for a 1-week Cambodia itinerary we’ve got you covered.  If you’re planning a 3-week Cambodia trip you’ll find info on that too!  No matter how long you’re planning to travel, this Cambodia itinerary guide has you covered.

Cambodia is one of the best countries to experience every extreme of travelling! It’s home to some of the world’s most jaw-dropping ancient architecture from the 12th century at Angkor Wat, but just a few hours south, the contrast is stark as you experience the country’s heart-wrenching history. Phnom Penh’s Killing Fields and the S-21 Genocide Museum are potent reminders that one quarter of this beautiful country’s population was killed in the 1970s.

Today’s Cambodia is a unique and incredible mix of this grandeur and tragedy. It has an eager, youthful population who are bright eyed and ready for change. With strikingly beautiful islands, quiet backwaters where you can kayak or SUP, lush rice fields, red roads, and some of the kindest people you’ll meet, Cambodia will unabashedly capture your heart as it first captured mine many years ago. 

Angkor Wat at Sunrise a stop on the Cambodia Itinerary

How much time should you spend in Cambodia?

Cambodia offers plenty of experiences for trips of all lengths from 5 days to 3 weeks! The following itineraries are a good starting point for your adventure with the option to speed up or slow down any of these trips as you see fit. Scroll through the whole post or click on any of the individual stops to skip ahead to the sections most relevant for your own Cambodia itinerary. 

5 Day Cambodia Itinerary

7 Day Cambodia Itinerary

10 Day Cambodia Itinerary

2 Week Cambodia Itinerary

3 Week Cambodia Itinerary

Bayon Temple in Siem Reap

Do you need a Visa for Cambodia?

Yes, but you can purchase a visa upon arrival at Cambodia’s airports. It costs $30 USD for 30 days. You can also choose to purchase an electronic visa online before you arrive through the government’s website: evisa.gov.kh. This option costs $30 plus a $6 processing fee. It usually takes 3 days from submission of your information to receive the e-Visa by email.

What money do they use in Cambodia?

Cambodia’s official currency is the Cambodian Riel. In practice, the country uses both US dollars and Cambodian riel. It’s common to pay for anything less than 1 USD using riel (e.g. 25 cents = 1000 Riel) and anything over this using US dollars.

When is the best time of year to visit Cambodia?

To avoid the intense rain and heat in Cambodia, it’s best to visit between November and March.

How to get around in Cambodia

Download Grab (the regional ride-sharing app) and PassApp (the Khmer version) on your phone when you arrive in Cambodia. These apps take away the stress of getting ripped off for a tuk-tuk or rickshaw ride and also save you having to direct your driver around a new city. If you’re booking buses between Cambodia’s cities you can use the online service Book Me Bus.

How to get to Cambodia

By air

International flights now arrive at both Phnom Penh’s airport and Siem Reap’s extravagant new airport. Flights to get here don’t tend to be the cheapest in Southeast Asia, so if you have some extra time to spare you might consider flying to Bangkok and overlanding to Cambodia from there.

By bus

You can take the bus into Cambodia from neighbouring Thailand, Vietnam or Laos. Buses from Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh take 6-7 hours while buses from Bangkok to Phnom Penh take 12 hours and from Bangkok to Siem Reap around 8-10 hours.

How much should you budget for your trip to Cambodia?

Backpacker's budget

On average plan to spend about $10 for a dorm bed, $3 for a plate of noodles, $9 for a bus ride within the country, and $1 for a glass of Angkor draft beer. Angkor Wat ticket entry will be your big splurge.

Flashpacker's budget

On average plan to spend about $30 for a private room in a hostel or guesthouse, $6 for a great meal, $50 for a one-way flight within the country, and $3.50 for a cocktail.

Is it safe to visit Cambodia?

Yes! Cambodia is one of the countries I’ve felt the safest in as a solo female traveller. That being said, like anywhere in the world (including your home country), you should keep your wits about you. On that note here are a few things to be aware of:

Bag and phone snatching

These have become sadly commonplace, especially in Phnom Penh. Wear your backpack with both straps on and if you’re going out in the evenings, try to just carry your belongings in your pockets. Watch out for motorbikes passing by when you’re taking photos with your phone, or all of those beautiful travel photos and your means of communicating will disappear in a flash! Which leads me to the next point.

Whatever you do, DON'T FORGET this

Whether you’re riding on the back of motorbikes, or exploring ancient temples, medical emergencies can happen and you want to be prepared! I had a friend that was medevaced to Bangkok from Cambodia and spent several weeks in the hospital there to the tune of $750,000. Fortunately, she had travel insurance. 

If you don’t already have travel insurance, check out World Nomads* . Their coverage includes medical emergencies, luggage & gear (even theft!) and trip cancellation.  Hopefully, you never need to make a claim, but if you do you’ll be beyond happy you were prepared!

*We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.

The powdered milk scam in Cambodia

This one used to be a favourite in Siem Reap and it still pops up from time to time. A woman will stand nearby a shop and ask a passerby to buy milk for her baby. She’ll explicitly tell you she doesn’t want money, just milk. Unfortunately these women have a deal with the nearby shopkeeper, so once you buy that milk and leave, they will return the milk and grab the cash. There are much more sustainable ways to support those who need help in Cambodia. Try visiting a training restaurant or donating your time or money to a reputable local NGO instead.

Backpacker in Cambodia

What to bring to Cambodia - a few essentials

A great travel backpack

Uneven terrain and frequent bus, boat, and tuk-tuk rides make a travel backpack the perfect luggage for your Cambodia adventure.  Your pack should be weather resistant, ergonomic, and help you stay organized. If you need a travel pack check out our Khmer Explorer Travel Set which was built for adventures  just like this. Plus every bag helps a child in Siem Reap province go to school, so you’re giving back to this country before you’ve even landed!

Comfortable clothing for hot weather

Think linen, organic cotton, sweat wicking, quick drying, and light colours. Cambodia gets crazy hot, even during the cool season. Leave the jeans at home!

Water bottle & water purification device

Cambodia is one of the hottest countries I’ve every travelled too, meaning you’re going to be really, really thirsty. Plastic pollution is a major problem, so grab your favourite water bottle and use the ever more readily available water coolers or your own purifier (like a steripen) to stay hydrated and cut down on plastic waste. Also, bring along some electrolyte tablets if possible. The water here doesn’t have many minerals and these tablets will help prevent dehydration.

A comfortable pair of sandals or shoes for walking

If you’re visiting the temples of Angkor you’ll be doing a lot of walking and climbing!

Temples of Angkor

Planning your stop in Siem Reap

Siem Reap is the jewel of Cambodia and an essential stop on any Cambodia itinerary. The jumping off point to visit the temples of Angkor Wat, many tourists make this their only destination in the country and if you’re short on time in Cambodia, this is the place to see. While the town itself has become a bit of a tourist madhouse, heading just a few streets away from the notorious “Pub Street” brings you to a different world of beautiful green fields, sleepy villages, and hidden temples to explore. Many people cram a marathon visit to Angkor Wat in one day and move on, but there is so much more to enjoy in Siem Reap and it’s worth spending a few more days in this little town. 

How to get to Siem Reap

By Air

International flights arrive straight into Siem Reap, so for those limited on time, flying directly here is a great option. Your guesthouse or hostel will usually offer a free pick up service from the airport. Alternatively, you can use PassApp or Grab to book a tuk tuk. 

By Bus

Buses arrive to Siem Reap from across the country. From Phnom Penh it takes about 6 hours by bus. We would recommend Giant Ibis ($15) for their great safety standards and conservation efforts. Cambodian roads can get a bit crazy at night so try to travel during the day for your own safety when possible.

Sunrise at Angkor Wat an amazing thing to do in Cambodia

Cambodia itinerary highlights in Siem Reap

Visit the Temples of Angkor

The ancient city of Angkor was once home to a population of over 1 million people and held the title of the world’s largest city. During the period between its creation in 802 AD to its abandonment in 1431, the God Kings of the Khmer Empire constructed a series of magnificent temples and religious monuments across hundreds of square kilometres of modern day Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam.  The crown jewels of this era are housed within the Angkor Archaeological Park adjacent to the town of Siem Reap. From taking in sunrise over Angkor Wat, to gazing at the many faces of the Bayon, or wandering the tree-engulfed corridors of Ta Prohm, no trip to Cambodia is complete without a journey here. As tourism just begins to resume in 2022, now is an incredible time to visit. The temples still lack the crowds and you’ll often find complete solitude at some of the most famous spots.  Like many of the world’s great wonders, a trip here is sure to be unlike anything you’ve ever experienced.

Read our comprehensive guide to visiting the Temples of Angkor.

Banteay Ampil
Banteay Ampil an off the beaten path temple

Explore off-the-beaten-path temples

The joy of spending several days longer in Siem Reap is that you can take the time to visit the countless off-the-beaten-path temples in the surrounding area. Of course the famous Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm, and Bayon temples can’t be missed, but they can be very busy and it’s worth spending a day or two visiting some equally incredible ruins without the crowds. Our favourite two hidden temples are Beng Mealea and Banteay Ampil. You can also venture further afield to Koh Ker, the former capital of the Khmer empire, now tucked away in the jungle with few tourists making the journey to visit it.

Banteay Ampil actually lies outside any kind of official zone so it’s free to visit. Beng Mealea costs $5 as it also lies outside of the Angkor Park. You can pick up your Beng Mealea ticket on the road to get there.

Visit the ethical Phare circus

Usually I hear the word circus and cringe, but not when it comes to Siem Reap’s Phare circus. This amazing spectacle – the Cirque du Soleil of Cambodia – features traditional dance, theatre, live music, and circus arts. Some of the performances will leave you in goosebumps. Profits from your ticket here support the education, training and social support programs of the Phare Ponleu Selpak

Haven Siem Reap

Where to eat in Siem Reap

Siem Reap is the place to eat amazing food and to make a difference.  Haven and Spoons are two of my favourite restaurants for their amazing food and social impact. These restaurants offer vocational training in the hospitality industry plus accommodation, meals, and social support to disadvantaged youth from the surrounding areas. If you’re looking for something a bit more local, be sure to head to Road 60 to experience the real Siem Reap. Every night this road comes to life with bright lights, food stalls, mats laid out on the road, and carnival-type rides. It’s where all of the locals head at night when the tourists are drinking too much Angkor draft on Pub Street.

Where to stay in Siem Reap

There is certainly no shortage of accommodation in Siem Reap.   I’ve continued to refine this selection of the best spots to stay in Siem Reap while living in Cambodia over the last few years.   As of 2023, I’d suggest the following spots:

 Lubd or Onederz are both awesome, social hostels close to everything happening in town.  

For a mid-range option check out the Primefold Hotel

If you’re looking to splurge, don’t miss the Treeline Urban Resort.

Battambang Boat

Planning your stop in Battambang

Often neglected Battambang is a place that should be missed only at your own peril. It’s not that there are a particular number of attractions to see in Battambang, but this countryside city is the best place to bask in the relaxed Khmer way of life and escape the tourist hordes. Take the slow boat from Siem Reap past floating villages, stroll through the local market, attend a cooking course, and cycle around. You may just find your own little piece of inner peace in this relaxed destination.

How to get to Battambang

By boat

The most scenic way to get to Battambang is to take a 7-9 hour boat ride from Siem Reap. It costs $20. 

By bus

The bus from Siem Reap to Battambang takes just 3-4 hours and costs about $6. 

Cambodia itinerary highlights in Battambang

Boat riding from Siem Reap to Battambang

Sure you could make this trip in one third of the time by bus, but isn’t travel about the journey not the destination? When the water is low, the boat frequently gets stuck so this can be an extra long journey. While it may be long, it is far from a boring trip. Passing by villages floating on stilts, local fishermen at work in their boats, and children playing on the riverbanks, this is the way to observe everyday Khmer life at its finest. It may be the perfect way to transition from the commercialism of central Siem Reap town to the charming quaintness of Battambang.

Battambang Market

Learning to cook Khmer style

Cooking in Southeast Asia usually evokes images of Thai food, but we promise you that a Khmer cooking course is not an experience to be missed. And there is no better place than the sleepy town of Battambang to have this experience. Head over to Nary Kitchen where you’ll scour the local market for ingredients, then return to make multiple dishes you didn’t realize you were capable of creating. A cooking lesson, a delicious meal (we promise Nary’s instructions are foolproof), and a free recipe book thrown in – it is hard to find better value for $10!

Where to Stay in Battambang

Battambang still isn’t a tourist hotspot so accommodation options are more limited here, but they tend to be affordable and clean. Check out Pomme for a consistently good hostel.

Phnom Penh city view on the Cambodia Itinerary

Planning your stop in Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh might not be the city you fall head-over-heels for right away. Most people stop here only for a day or two and move onwards. In spite of this, it’s an important stop on your Cambodia itinerary to truly begin to understand Cambodia’s difficult past. A day in Phnom Penh visiting the Killing Fields and Genocide Museum of S21 is harrowing. Be sure to allow yourself time after these visits to relax at one of Phnom Penh’s many great cafes or restaurants. The city is constantly changing and it’s an interesting place to soak in Cambodia’s rapid transformation over the past years. It’s a city where past really does meet present.

How to get to Phnom Penh

By air

International flights arrive here from across the world. From the airport to the centre of town (Riverside, BKK1 or Russian Market) a rickshaw booked through Grab costs around $6. An official airport taxi has a fixed rate depending on the area of your destination ($12-$15). You can also take the public bus which costs just 1,500 riel ($0.37).

By bus

Phnom Penh is a hub to access Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City, and destinations across Cambodia. Buses coming into Phnom Penh will drop you off at different locations depending on the bus company you choose. Most bus company stations are located along the riverside or near Orussey market.  

Cambodia itinerary highlights in Phnom Penh

Visiting the harrowing S-21

Tuol Sleng, also called Security Prison 21, is a former school that was turned into a security prison during the reign of the Khmer Rouge from 1975-1979. More than 14,000 people were tortured, imprisoned, and ultimately killed in these halls. Only 7 people who walked in here walked out alive. One of these sits at the entry point as you enter S-21. As you navigate past the faces of all those who were lost, it’s a particularly potent reminder of humanity’s dark side.

Tour the Choeung Ek Killing Fields

Located just 40 minutes outside of Phnom Penh, Choeung Ek was the largest of the Khmer Rouge killing fields. This is the location where those imprisoned and tortured at S-21 were sent to be executed. Today this is a place dedicated to educating both Cambodians and international visitors about the Khmer Rouge genocide in an attempt to prevent this from ever happening again.

Banana Backpacks Khmer Explorer in Phnom Penh market

Strolling through Kandal or BKK market at 7am

Phnom Penh is bursting with amazing markets to explore, from the famous architecture and fake goods of the Central Market to the souvenir haven of the Russian Market. For really authentic experiences though, visit Kandal or BKK markets when they open at 7am. Watch as shopkeepers lay out vegetables and meat to sell for the day and get lost in the corridors selling the widest variations of items. These are the markets not catered to tourists in any capacity and they’re great places to get a sense of Phnom Penh’s daily bustling life.

Settling down at a cafe and shopping for good

There are so many amazing cafes and restaurants in Phnom Penh, you don’t have to look far to find them. One of my all time favourites  is the charming ARTillery Cafe. Located close to the Royal Palace, ARTillery offers a nice respite from the heat and offers amazing treats like a falafel waffle eggs benedict. Right outside of ARTillery you can find secondhand and ethical goods shops to get your souvenir shopping out of the way while you’re here.

Where to stay in Phnom Penh

Onederz Phnom Penh location is terrific spot to stay in the city. It’s located in the riverside area of the city, close to all of the main tourist attractions.

Kayaking in Kampot

Planning your stop in Kampot

I have yet to hear someone say they felt anything short of love for Kampot. This riverside town has a dilapidated charm different to anywhere else in Cambodia. The crumbling colonial buildings and quiet streets make it a brilliant town to explore either by foot or by bicycle. With amazing coffee shops and restaurants, pepper farms galore, a river brimming with activities, and a hill station to explore, Kampot is sure to charm you.

How to get to Kampot

By Train

Cambodia’s passenger trains are running again! You can take the train from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville with Kampot as a stop along the way. It’s worth taking this slightly longer journey (4.5 hours) for the beautiful countryside views along the way and to avoid Phnom Penh’s crazy traffic. It costs $6.

By Bus

The bus from Phnom Penh to Kampot takes just 3-4 hours (depending on traffic getting out of Phnom Penh). It costs around $6-10 depending on the bus company.
Girl watches boat at sunset in Kampot

Cambodia itinerary highlights in Kampot

Looking for more information on your trip to Kampot? Make sure you check out this post on 20 Incredible Things To Do In Kampot.

Kayaking with the (fabled) crocodiles

Don’t worry, apparently it’s a myth that there are crocodiles in this river, although I did see a water snake when I was kayaking here. Rent a kayak at Greenhouse, Champa Lodge or Meraki and explore the beautiful backwaters here that are covered by tree cathedrals. It’s very reminiscent of the Mekong Delta here and you’ll often have the water completely to yourself. You can also rent a SUP board and test out your balance on the river water.

Eating, drinking, and eating some more

A lot of great chefs who got tired of the Phnom Penh chaos moved themselves down to Kampot, and it really shows in the quality of restaurants here. Trendy Cafe Espresso is the perfect breakfast choice with its strong coffee, overflowing granola and fresh fruit of all varieties, and mouth-watering Huevos Rancheros. It’s truly a big slice of breakfast paradise in Cambodia. When it comes to dinner, there are so many amazing spots that I’m hard pressed to choose just a handful to recommend. Explore for yourself and don’t be surprised if you stay longer in Kampot just for the food alone.

Exploring the salt fields and pepper farms

The only shortcoming of this area of Cambodia is that the roads are notoriously potholed. Whether you’re exploring by motorbike, tuk tuk or bicycle, prepare yourself for a bumpy ride to get out to the countryside salt fields and pepper farms. Kampot pepper is famous for good reason and you may find yourself with a whole new appreciation for this kitchen staple after visiting Kampot. Journey out to the certified organic pepper farm, La Plantation, and take their free tour to see step by step how pepper is made and sample half a dozen kinds of pepper variations. 

Where to stay in Kampot

If you’re looking for a great social hostel, Karma Traders is for you. They host amazing live music, quiz, and taco nights and the staff is ultra friendly. The dorms here aren’t the most soundproof, so if you’re looking for a quieter night’s sleep you might want to try a private room. If you’re flashpacking, take the 20 minute ride out of the city to tranquil Greenhouse, where you can rent a riverside bungalow and kayak, float, or stand up paddle to your heart’s content.  

Kep - Sunset at the Sailing Club

Planning your stop in Kep

Kep is a sleepy little seaside town blossoming with greenery. It’s a popular vacation spot among Khmer locals, but less international tourists visit here. If you’ve been craving some relaxation, hiking trails, beachfront, great seafood, and beautiful sunsets, Kep may just be your heaven on earth. There isn’t much to do here (which is really what makes it such a charming place), so you only need a day or two here, especially if you’re short on time.

How to get to Kep

By Bus

Located just 4 hours from Phnom Penh ($8) or 1 hour from Kampot ($4), this is an easy bus ride. 

Cambodia itinerary highlights in Kep

Hiking in Kep

Kep National Park is the only place you can hike without a guide in Cambodia, as the area has been completely cleared of landmines and unexploded ordnance. A trail system snakes around the park and it’s a great place to take a 2 hour stroll or peddle a mountain bike through. The Led Zep Cafe makes for a nice spot to rest your feet and quench your thirst in the park.

Taking in a sunset at the Sailing Club

This swanky spot on the beach is a great place to grab a sunset drink and take in the incredible view over the ocean. It’s not cheap, but it’s also not as expensive as you might think when you first lay eyes on it.

Day tripping to Rabbit Island

Koh Tonsay (or Rabbit Island) is a blissful little patch of sand less than an hour by boat from Kep. It’s rustic and if you’re looking for a Castaway experience, you can settle in one of the little bungalows on the beach here to stay the night.

Where to stay in Kep

There’s a reason why Khmer Hands Bungalows has a perfect 5 star rating on TripAdvisor. These adorable bungalows are super thoughtfully designed and the owners of this place are some of the most wonderful people around. The place doubles as an arts training center.

Cambodia's Islands

Planning your stop in Cambodia's Islands

Less famous than Thailand’s islands, Cambodia has its own set of island gems. With white beaches and bioluminescent plankton you can swim with at night, these islands are still worth their hype. Located off the coast of Sihanoukville (try to time your visit to avoid spending the night in Sihanoukville), Cambodia has an island for every kind of beach lover.

Koh Rong

Koh Rong is the most famous of Cambodia’s islands and it’s getting busier and busier by the year. If you’re looking for a party, this is the island on the list to visit.

Kong Rong Samloem

Koh Rong’s quieter sister, Koh Rong Samloem is a popular alternative for those looking for a more relaxed time on the beach. Accommodation here can be expensive so make sure to look into where you’ll stay before visiting.

Koh Ta Kiev

Koh Ta Kiev may be the jewel of all of these islands. It’s reminiscent of what my first trip to Cambodia’s little island, Koh Russei, was like 9 years ago. There are basic beach bungalows, limited electricity and wifi, and travellers can actually get back to the basics here.

How to get to the Islands

Take the bus or plane to Sihanoukville and, if possible, jump on a boat right away to access the island of your choice. Sihanoukville has become expensive and is not the most pleasant place to stay.

off the beaten path spot on the cambodia itinerary homestay

Off the beaten path spots in Cambodia

If you have some extra time to spare in Cambodia and you happen to be a lover of the mountains, there are three wonderful places you could add to your itinerary.

Kirirom is Cambodia’s first national park and its location in the Cardamom mountains make it a cool and refreshing retreat from the country’s heat. With pine forests to explore and adventure activities galore, Kirirom is a great off-the-beaten-path adventure spot not too far from Phnom Penh.

In Cambodia’s wild east, a visit to Mondulkiri or Ratanakiri provinces shouldn’t be missed by trekking lovers. There are plenty of multi-day treks you can take through the jungles of these provinces and Mondulkiri offers ethical elephant experiences. Be sure to read this thoughtful article to make an informed decision about which elephant sanctuary you visit. They aren’t all created equally.

How to get here

Mondulkiri (7 hours, $10-13) and Ratanakiri (9 hours, $11-15) are easily accessed by bumpy bus rides from Phnom Penh. Kirirom is harder to get to and often necessitates figuring out some private transportation.

Responsible Travel Tips for Cambodia:

Orphanage tourism in Cambodia:

Visiting or volunteering at orphanages is incredibly harmful to Cambodia’s young population. The last years have brought increased knowledge about the harms of orphanage tourism, yet this is still an issue to be mindful of as you travel to Cambodia. 

Plastic waste

Plastic waste is an astronomical issue in Cambodia. Tourists alone using disposable water bottles account for 26 Olympic-sized swimming pools of plastic waste in just one year. You’ll quickly see this when you arrive in the country. As a responsible traveller there are a number of things you can do to mitigate your own impact. Bring your own water bottle and fill it up from refill stations or use your SteriPen, pick up a bamboo or metal straw instead of using disposable plastic straws, and say no to plastic bags when offered them.

Disclaimer: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you click one of the links and make a purchase we’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. Just like the travel backpacks we build, we’re very particular . So any products or services we suggest, we test and use ourselves before making any recommendations or endorsements. 

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